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  • 2
  • Work to where you want the ­buttonhole to begin, bring yarn to front, slip one purlwise, bring yarn to back (Figure 1). *Slip one purlwise, pass first slipped stitch over second; repeat from * one (two, three, four) more time(s). Place last stitch
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  • 5
  • [Sl 1 kwise wyb] 2 times, sl 1 pwise wyb, drop yarn, *pass 2nd st on right needle over first (center) st, sl center st back to left needle, pass 2nd st on left needle over center st,* sl center st back to right needle, rep from * to * once, p1 or k1,
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  • A
  • Download a handy PDF file of commonly used abbreviations found in Interweave Knits and Knitscene . Click here to download.
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  • If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch knitwise to left needle. *For a purl stitch, insert right needle from back to front between first two stitches on left needle. Wrap yarn
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  • When attaching to an edge without live stitches: With double-pointed needle, cast on number of stitches directed in pattern. With right side of garment facing, *pick up and knit one stitch from edge, slide stitches to opposite end of double-pointed needle
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  • B
  • Insert threaded needle under two rows, right next to the selvedge, and up through both layers of fabric. Count back one row and insert the needle under the next two rows. Continue this circular motion-ahead two rows from where the working yarn emerged
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  • Working from right to left, one stitch in from selvedge, bring threaded needle up through both pieces of knitted fabric (Figure 1), then back down through both layers a short distance (about a row) to the right of the starting point (Figure 2). *Bring
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  • *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *.
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  • Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3). Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
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  • Explore bind-off methods in this tutorial by Ann Budd. 41041.aspx
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  • Place the front and back shoulder stitches onto two separate needles. Hold them in your left hand with the right sides of the knitting facing together. In your right hand, take another needle and insert the right-hand needle into the first stitch on each
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  • Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the center of a knitted stitch. *Insert needle at center of next stitch to the right and two rows up, and out at the center of the stitch two rows below. Repeat from *.
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  • Working into edge half-stitch of the knitted piece, *bring tip of threaded needle in and out of a knitted stitch, place working yarn under needle tip, then bring threaded needle through the stitch and tighten. Repeat from *, always bringing threaded needle
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  • C
  • If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch to left needle. *Insert right needle ­be­tween first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through
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  • 41061.aspx
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  • Casting on lays the foundation for your knitting project. It is the method by which stitches are formed that you then knit or purl to form your knitted item. Download this PDF to learn more about how to Cast-On . See also: Backward Loop Cast-On, Cable
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  • Knit into the back and the front of the next stitch on the left needle, then insert the left needle behind the vertical strand that runs between the two stitches just made and knit the strand through its back loop—two stitches increased.
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  • See: Crochet Chain (ch)
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  • Bring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch to the right.
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  • This cast-on method is worked with a crochet hook and can be used in one of two ways: as a decorative cast-on that forms a tidy chain and perfectly matches the bind-off row, or as a provisional cast-on. If the decorative cast-on is desired, use the working
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  • Make a slipknot with two balls of yarn, leaving long tails (about 1" per stitch). The slipknot counts as one stitch. Cut one of the strands connected to a ball of yarn. Place the single strand over your left index finger and wrap the double strands
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  • Lay thread(s) to be covered on top of knitted background. Bring threaded needle out from back to front at side of thread(s). *Bring needle over thread(s) and insert it close to other side. Bring needle back out a short distance away. Repeat from *.
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  • Insert crochet hook into first stitch on needle, as if to knit. Wrap yarn around hook (Figure 1), pull this loop through stitch on needle, and let stitch drop off needle. *Insert hook into next stitch as if to knit, wrap yarn around hook, pull loop through
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  • Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed.
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  • With smooth, contrasting waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. Cut yarn and pull tail through last chain to secure. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from last chain worked
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  • *Bring threaded needle out from back to front at lower left edge of knitted stitch to be covered. Working left to right, insert needle at upper right edge of same stitch and bring it back out at lower left edge of adjacent stitch, directly below and in
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  • D
  • Bring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. *Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping loop under needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch over. Beginning each stitch at the same
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  • Yarn over hook, insert hook into a stitch, yarn over hook and draw a loop through (three loops on hook), yarn over hook (Figure 1) and draw it through two loops, yarn over hook and draw it through the remaining two loops (Figure 2). Figure 1 Figure 2
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  • Work cross-stitch as described at left, then bring needle out at base of crossed yarn, over cross, and back in at top of cross, then out again at left side of cross and back in on right side. The double cross-stitch in the sample is worked over four knitted
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  • Horizontal: Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the V of the knitted stitch you want to cover. *Working right to left, pass needle in and out under the stitch in the row above it and back into the base of the same stitch. Bring
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  • E
  • See: Backstitch, Blanket Stitch, Buttonhole Stitch, Chain Stitch, Couching Stitch, Cross-Stitch, Daisy Stitch, Double Cross-Stitch, Duplicate Stitch, Fern Stitch, Fly Stitch, French Knot, Jacobean Couching, Running Stitch, Satin Stitch, Split Chain Stitch
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  • This technique comes from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac (Dover, 1981). Make a simple loop of yarn with the short end hanging down (Figure 1). With a crochet hook, *draw a loop through main loop, then draw another loop through this
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  • G
  • To check gauge, cast on 30 to 40 stitches using recommended needle size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely, and lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler
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  • To graft garter stitch, place live stitches on needles held parallel. Thread tapestry needle with yarn and go through first stitch on front needle as if to purl, then first stitch on back needle as if to purl, leaving both stitches on the needles. *Then
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  • H
  • *Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over (Figure 1) and draw through all the loops on the hook (Figure 2). Repeat from *.
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  • I
  • With double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. *Without turning the needle, slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches as usual; repeat from * for desired length.
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  • When there are live stitches or picked-up stitches on left needle: With right side facing, cast on number of stitches needed for I-cord (as directed in pattern) onto left needle. *Knit to last I-cord stitch (e.g., if working a two-stitch I-cord as shown
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  • These instructions are for a 5-stitch I-Cord. Cast on 5 stitches, leaving a 6" tail. Next row K5, do not turn. *Next row Slip 5 sts back to left needle without twisting them, k1f&b, k4, do not turn. Rep from * until there are 5 more stitches
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  • Working from the right side of the garment, place the pieces to be seamed on a flat surface, right sides up. Begin at the lower edge and work upward, row by row. Insert a threaded tapestry needle under the horizontal bar in the middle of the edge stitch
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  • J
  • Make long straight stitches (see page 10) on a knitted background parallel to each other and about 1z2" (1.3 cm) apart. Work another series of straight stitches on top of and at right angles to the previous ones. Then couch the resulting crosses
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  • Knitting color stripes in the round can result in jogs at the "seam" line where each new round begins. In Meg Swansen's Knitting (Interweave, 1999), Meg offers an ingenious technique for eliminating these jogs when working solid-color stripes
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  • Hold two needles parallel in your right hand, one on top of the other and needle points facing to the left. Leaving a tail long enough to cast on the required number of stitches, drape the yarn over the top needle so the tail is in front and the ball
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  • K
  • Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3). Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
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  • From The Knitter's Companion Deluxe Edition , by Vicki Square
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  • Step 1: Bring threaded needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle (Figure 1) . Step 2: Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle (Figure 2) . Step 3: Bring threaded needle through first
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  • 1. Cast on 20 stitches (or enough to practice several stitches). 2. Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand, the empty needle in your right hand. Hold the needles a few inches from the tips, between your thumb and first couple of fingers
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  • Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat from *, always knitting into last stitch made
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  • To avoid constant turning of the work, you can knit and purl from the same side. To purl from the knit side: With RS facing and yarn in back, insert left needle into first st on right needle from front to back, wrap yarn over top of needle and then around
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  • L
  • A lifeline is a strand of yarn that is inserted into the work so that, if an error is encountered, it is easy to rip back to that point. Lifelines are often used in lace knitting. Leave lifelines in your work until the piece is complete. To insert a lifeline
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  • Nearly invisible increase.
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  • Leaving a long tail (about 1-2" for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place on right needle. Place thumb and index finger of left hand between yarn ends so that working yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb. Secure
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  • Right-slanting loop CO (also: Backward-loop CO) *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *. Left-slanting loop CO *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle so right leg
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  • M
  • Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1 With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2). Figure 1 Figure 2 Right Slant (M1R) With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from
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  • 41065.aspx
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  • With RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one bar between first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1), then corresponding bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure 2). *Pick up next two bars on first piece, then next two bars on
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  • O
  • Leaving a long tail (about ½" [1.3 cm] for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot (this counts as the first stitch.) Place your thumb and index finger between the yarn ends so that the working yarn is around your index finger and the
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  • Hold pieces to be seamed with right sides together. Working close to the edge, from right to left, *bring threaded needle from back to front through both layers. Repeat from *.
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  • P
  • With WS facing and working from right to left, insert right needle under selvedge stitch from farside to nearside, wrap yarn as to purl (Figure 1), and pull loop through (Figure 2).
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  • Cut two circles of cardboard, each 1z2" (1.3 cm) larger than desired finished pom-pom width. Cut a small circle out of the center and a small edge out of the side of each circle (Figure 1). Tie a strand of yarn between the circles, hold circles together
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  • Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure
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  • Step 1: As with the knit stitch, start by holding the needle with the stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right. (This tutorial demonstrates the English method of purling.) Step 2: Pull the working yarn in front of the needles. Insert
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  • R
  • See: Make One Left, Make One Right, Make One Purlwise
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  • Unless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rows.
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  • Work as regular I-cord, but pull the yarn around the front of the work.
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  • Working from left to right, insert the crochet hook into a knit edge stitch, draw up a loop, bring the yarn over the hook, and draw this loop through the first one. *Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right (figure 1), draw up a loop, bring the
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  • Working small straight stitches, pass the threaded needle over one knitted stitch and under the next to form a dashed line. The stitches can be worked in equal or varying lengths, horizontally, vertically, or diagonally.
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  • S
  • Work closely spaced straight stitches in graduated lengths as desired, entering and exiting in center of or at side of knitted stitches.
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  • Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. ­Working from right to left, *insert tapestry needle purlwise (from right to left) through first two stitches (Figure 1) and pull the yarn through
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  • How to work partial rows.
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  • Work to turning point, slip next stitch purlwise (Figure 1), bring the yarn to the front, then slip the same stitch back to the left needle (Figure 2), turn the work around and bring the yarn in position for the next stitch—one stitch has been wrapped
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  • Work to the turning point, slip the next stitch purlwise to the right needle, bring the yarn to the back of the work (Figure 1), return the slipped stitch to the left needle, bring the yarn to the front between the needles (Figure 2), and turn the work
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  • How to work a single crochet stitch.
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  • This decrease produces a fairly pronouced left-slanting decrease. Slip one stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, and then use the point of the left needle to pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle.
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  • *Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat from *. Worked on edge: Worked in chain:
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  • How to work a slip-stitch crochet seam.
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  • A slipknot is a knot that tightens up easily once you place it on the needle. 1. With the tail end of the yarn in your palm, wrap the working yarn around your index and middle fingers, and lay the working yarn across the tail end, forming an X. 2. Spread
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  • Work as for stem stitch, bringing needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch, piercing the working thread with each stitch.
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  • How to work a slip-slip-knit decrease.
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  • How to work a slip-slip-purl decrease.
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  • How to work a decorative, embroidered stem stitch.
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  • How to work a decorative, emroidered straight stitch.
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  • This method is similar to the standard bind-off but produces a more elastic edge. This bind-off is especially good for knitters who tend to bind-off too tightly; use it when you want to make sure your bind-off isn't too tight. Slip one stitch, knit
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  • T
  • To prevent long floats that can catch on fingers and distory the stitches, floats should be no longer than 1" (2.5 cm) long. If a float needs to span a wider distance, it's best to trap or "catch" it with the working yarn to keep it
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  • Cut a piece of cardboard 4" wide by the desired length of the tassel plus 1". Wrap yarn to desired thickness around cardboard. Cut a short length of yarn and tie tightly around one end of the wrapped yarn (Figure 1). Cut yarn loops at other
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  • How to work a three-needle bind-off. Great for shoulder stability.
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  • 41063.aspx
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  • How to work a treble crochet stitch.
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  • Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first knit loop on the knitting needle (Figure 1). Draw through, then wrap around side of fabric (not over needle) to the back. Step 2: From the back, insert tapestry needle knitwise into the first purl loop
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  • Even Number of Stitches (see below for Odd Number of Stitches) Version 1 With contrasting waste yarn, cast on half the number of stitches required using the backward-loop method. Cut the waste yarn. With the main color yarn, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit
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  • Hold two needles parallel. Leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail in front, bring yarn from front to back between needles. *Wrap working yarn over top of both needles, around front, and under needles to back. Rep from * until number of wraps over top of needle
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  • How to make a tightly twisted cord—perfect for drawstrings.
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  • V
  • 41065.aspx
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  • How to work a vertical buttonhole.
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  • W
  • How to work partial rows.
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  • This is a nifty way to work in ends as you knit striped projects, or when you join a new ball of yarn. Insert the needle tip into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, place the old color over the right needle (Figure 1; old color is dark) , knit the
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  • How to do a whipstitch.
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  • How to work a decorative, embroidered woven web.
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  • How to work partial rows.
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  • How to compare the weight of a substitute yarn to a suggested project yarn.
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  • Y
  • How to make a yarn over increase.
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