Knitting Daily with Sandi » Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore

Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore

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Stef M. and Tephra both brought up a concern that has been echoed by many folks: What if your waist is not the narrowest part of your torso? And a related question: What if your waist is not something you really want to highlight—but there is another part of you that you DO want to highlight?


How about some underbust shaping?

Well, we're not Waist Snobs around here. No one here says you can only use waist shaping on actual waists.

Perhaps it would help if we chucked the usage of the word "waist" for a bit and just said: Shaping. Shaping is not just for hourglass figures, nor just for those whose waist truly is their narrowest bit. Shaping is for EVERYONE—but YOU are the one who gets to say where you want your shaping to be.

I'm going to paraphrase the amazing Elizabeth Zimmermann here (I don't think she'd mind a bit) and say: Be the boss of your shaping.

Be. The. Boss. Use shaping to highlight what you like, and to draw attention away from what you don't. It's not about what any fancy TV show says you ought to wear; it's about finding out what makes you feel confident, attractive, and looking like YOU (not like whatever Hollywood says you ought to look like).

After all: You are in control of your knitting needles. (They pretty much have to obey you, since the pointy little darlings do not have brains of their own.) So make 'em make you look good!

Here's an example: If you have a large belly, and your narrowest part is actually your underbust, plus you have an attractive bustline, then who needs waist shaping? Try a bit of underbust shaping instead. But guess what? The same principles apply, no matter what you call it. You would work staggered decrease rows continuously from hem to underbust, then increase to give enough room for The Ladies. You might even consider something like the Printed Silk Cardigan. That's perfect for a gal with larger bottom half and a pretty, but smaller, bustline!




Let me know what you think! What do you think of the Knit to Fit Your Shape series? Has it inspired you to knit something you might not have otherwise tried? Is the information too hard, too soft, or juuuuust right? Your comments and feedback help me to know what you want to see on Knitting Daily, so speak up and be heard!





Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? I'm working away on the Gathered Pullover, which spent some time in the meditation pond, and also on the Secret Project. But I've also been spinning and beading and making all kinds of crafty trouble.




Posted Mar 06 2008, 04:00 PM by KD Sandi

Comments

RachelK wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 2:12 PM
i do really like that orange cardigan thingy!!
its really nice :]
Anonymous wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 2:23 PM
That orange construct where EVERYTHING is hanging out (top undergarment at neckline, sleeves and waist or thereabouts - for whom is it intended? Even if the underbust shaping is a novel idea, wouldn't most folks end up looking pregnant? And who wants to aim for that???
SharonR wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 3:57 PM
I am thrilled that I am getting such a good education about fitting-please continue. It is so funny that I never 'got it' and can now begin see. thanks Sandy!
AveryK wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 4:15 PM
I think the information in this series can make the difference between a sweater that fits and a sweater that looks great.

One thing continues to puzzle me. Now that I know where my waist is, I know the midpoint. But to use that information, I need to know where my armhole is. :) I know that sounds funny. I mean where will the armhole shaping of the sweater rest against my body? If I knew, for instance, that the armhole shaping started six inches after my natural waist, then I could adjust the body shaping accordingly.

I hope a future topic will address sleeve length. I know it's easy to adjust, but like body shaping, it's not always obviously how much to adjust it.
SharonH wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 6:56 PM
I'll second the sleeve request. I can do waist shaping and bust darts like nobody's business, but don't know much about making sleeves fit.
ShelleyL wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Fri, Mar 7 2008 10:33 PM
Love the series on shaping - would love more info on customizing patterns to make them fit!

On another issue, for the past couple of weeks I haven't been getting my emails on Fridays or some Wednesdays - what's up with that? I checked, they aren't in my spam filter.
AineR wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 8:48 AM
This topic email never made it to my email addy. Went and "fetched it". Wonder how many other subscribers are still waiting for Friday's email from Knitting Daily.
Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
LisaM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 10:31 AM
The Shaping posts have been fabulous, although I haven't ventured out with my tape measure yet. I hope you're planning a 'talk' on how to convert a pattern to match one's shaping desires - of waist, bust, arm, shoulder width, etc.!!
JoanB wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 10:42 AM
I looked for the Sweetheart socks pattern in my Winter 2007 issue but could only find the Tilting Cable socks by Chrissy Gardiner. Did I miss them? Joan
Aranel wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 11:08 AM
Hanny: The "model" in that photograph was actually a volunteer who bravely agreed to try on the sweater so we could see how it might fit. I wouldn't choose to wear that particular cardigan over that particular top - probably it was just whatever she happened to be wearing!

If I wore that cardigan (probably over a short-sleeved top with a lower neckline), the open front would avoid the I-wish-I-were-pregnant look, while the slight flare might make it look like I actually have some shape around my waist.
Thomaselaskowski wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 12:41 PM
Hello from the buried in snow Midwest! I too have been having trouble receiving emails. Somedays they come just fine, and other days they never come, also usually Friday. The knit to fit series is wonderful and has taught about fitting sweaters esp. for my girls. I agree that I could use help in sleeve adjustments. I have tried on my own many times and failed. Mary L
TerryP wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sat, Mar 8 2008 4:24 PM
I LOVE the shaping series. Too many classic sweater patterns have beautiful stitches and/or colors, but hang from the shoulders like a shapeless sack. NOT flattering. So thank you and keep up the great work.

Terry of Vista
KerrieJ wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sun, Mar 9 2008 12:07 PM
I am thoroughly enjoying your posts - I always do! I especially love that you are tackling issues that knitters want to be educated on. This most recent series is one that blankets all knitters; some of us are short, thick, tall, wide, etc. Shaping is an invaluable technique for any knitter, whether knitting for themselves or others. Thank you so much for this series.
AnitaS wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Sun, Mar 9 2008 10:01 PM
I was wondering if the dragon skin wrap sweater is available in an adult size pattern. Anita
AnnH wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 9:28 AM
I am just so grateful that you have tackled this subject with such grace and determination. How about a book of your various musings and evaluations?
JenniferG wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 12:07 PM
I love these articles on shaping and hope you continue to do more. I am trying to become a fearless knitter, but like a lot of people, I have trouble with making garments fit properly. These articles on waist shaping have been a wonderful help. I am thin and tall and after pulling out my tape measure, I have come to the conclusion that while I am small around, everything is elongated. If I knit the pattern according to my bust (which is usually all they give you to go by), I end up with a sweater in which the waist is too high, sleeves are too short, the widest bit of the bust doesn?t line up, etc. In the past I have tried to compensate by knitting the next size up, but end up with a garment that may fit in the sleeve length and waist location, but is unflatteringly large & bulky around my body. These articles have really opened my eyes to the reality that I cannot be a slave to the pattern if I want to make a garment for myself with a flattering fit.
JanetM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:18 PM
....sorry but this reminds me how eager I am to see what you do with the shaping of the gathered pullover....is that a dead idea now?
JanetM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:19 PM
....sorry but this reminds me how eager I am to see what you do with the shaping of the gathered pullover....is that a dead idea now?
JanetM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:19 PM
....sorry but this reminds me how eager I am to see what you do with the shaping of the gathered pullover....is that a dead idea now?
MelissaH wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:20 PM
I love the shaping series! It's helped me get "out of the box" that so many sweaters are made in. I have a larger waist, so this series has been a great help in trying to hide that by accenting other parts with shaping.

Thank you so much for presenting this series to help knitters make more flattering sweaters for themselves!
EllenF wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:30 PM
I loved the series, but hated that it made me have to actually THINK about my shape! The post-menopause years haven't been kind! Gravity prevails!
EliseH wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:32 PM
I too love this series and look forward to more. For the past year I have been attempting to be a fearless knitter and customize patterns to my measurements. It has been my greatest knitting challenge and I love challenges. This series has opened my eyes to more possibilities and less frogging. Please keep going with the series!
MonicaE wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:39 PM
I love the series, I also want the dragon cardigan in adult sizes, and I wish the sweater patterns had more than just the bust size, since I too am elongated. HOW much to I lengthen? When to shape the armhole? I can measure myself plenty, but it doesn't help much if the sweater doesn't have measurements. Not to mention that, being elongated, I'll probably need more yarn. But how much?
Anonymous wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:43 PM
Not only has the shaping series inspired me to take another look at things I would not have dreamt of knitting, things much too close to the body for comfort, but it has actually made me realize that you can have shaping, when so many patterns (especially here in France it seems) are just straight up and down.
Caroline Vidican, Quimper, Brittany, France
DeAnnW wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:45 PM
I love this series! The art of learning how to camouflage flaws and accentuate the positive is a good thing. Thank you Sandi :)
PattyS wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:47 PM
Thank you, Sandi, for your time and effort in producing the best and most educational knitting site I have found. I am relatively new to "real" knitting -- sweaters, socks, etc. The information on shaping is wonderful. I, also, really appreciate the galleries showing how different styles fit on different figures. I will be looking forward to more informative articles.
TessM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:51 PM
Once again, Sandy has written something that could have come out of my own mouth! I often tell my students that you are the boss of your own knitting, a la EZ, and "those needles and yarn can't do a thing without your help!"

Love the shaping info and particularly applaud the pics of the same garment on various bodies. This practice is the exact opposite of my pet peeve where a publication will "doctor" a garment in a photo shoot to make it look like it is shaped when it isn't. I just finished redesigning a sweater (from a different publication) for which the directions given were completely at odds with the look in the photo. I've documented the whole redesign process (measurements, math and all!) at www.tessknits.com, which I hope may be of help to others who are trying to adjust patterns for personal fit.

Keep up the good work!
Fiberlicious wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 2:55 PM
I dont' have any smaller part - I'm a big square. I've discovered that I look good in shaped business suit jackets that are very structured, so if I want to look like I have a waist in a sweater, I need to make it with a very firm fabric, with enough ease that I can indent a waist a little bit and the fabric still doesn't actually touch my torso.
Carla K wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:08 PM
You are giving me the confidence to knit that sweater I've always wanted to. Please continue to add any other thoughts about shaping and such. It really helps us newer knitters.
ClaireS wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:09 PM
This is a GREAT series!! When it comes to trying new techniques, stitches, etc., I'm definitely a fearless knitter. Difficulty of a pattern don't deter me. But a sweater will stop me dead in my tracks. I don't consider myself too far from an ordinary size -- slightly long arms, slightly long waist, and the girls are not huge, but ample. After more than one ill-fitting garment, I am learning that I will need to make adjustments to the pattern. You have taught me to forget the S-M-L sizes and just knit it to fit. And you're giving me the tools to get past my fear of sweaters. I just finished one that fits (hooray) and am about to start one that has (gasp!) a shaped waist.
Kistlertechnical wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:13 PM
Hi, I love the shaping series. I am new to knitting and there are so many beautiful patterns out there. My body, however, is a spread, 50-year-old body so I need help learning to shape/tailor my knitted garments to make the most of my good bits. Thank you very much for your advice, explanations, and help! It is much appreciated. Terri Kistler
Mliz55 wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:20 PM
Genius!!!
LynnS wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:30 PM
These are truly beautiful, but I just wish you had the same information for those of us who only crochet! Please?

Lynn
BobbieW wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:30 PM
I've really enjoyed all that you have said or could say in the future about shaping...I recently knitted a long cardigan that was without shape and it took me a whole year. Once I tried it on I couldn't stand it because it made me look huge. That's when I realized I needed some shaping to look more flattering. So thank you again for all your info and I'm now looking for patterns without those terrible straight sides! (My sincerest apologies however to those who love them straight) Sincerely Bobbie
Mary AnnP wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:37 PM
I really need the tutorials on these fitting topics! I have 3 daughters + myself to knit for- we are ALL very different shapes!
LindsayW wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:46 PM
I'm delighted to have the information you are sharing about shaping. It's making me think harder about the patterns I chose and the way I chose to modify them. Please keep sending us these thought provoking posts.
NancyGriswold wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:47 PM
I love this series on customizing the fit of sweaters. I have filed the e-mails for future reference! Keep 'em coming!
TracyB wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:54 PM
I just love your waist shaping series! I hope you continue to do more series in techniques, color, designing, etc. I love the fact that you acknowledge us bigger girls. You have inspired me to try something new. Thanks!
FiberFriend wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:57 PM
Sandi,
I am LOVING the shaping series, it's just what I'm into now, and there aren't that many good references out there. It reminds me though, that you were working on a bust-darts tutorial... did it go to the frog pond, or should I ask?
Or did I miss that email? It's ok to say if it just didn't work out, you can trust us, we'll still love you!
TracyB wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:58 PM
One more comment/question...can you explain a little more about easy. I don't really under what you mean by negative easy, etc. Thanks again, I look forward to reading your daily posts!
syarborough@gmail.com wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 3:59 PM
I can't thank you enough for addressing the shaping topic! You've opened my mind to new understanding and I look forward to anything you have to say about fitting, shaping, and pattern adjustments. Your writing is wonderful and I enjoy every bit of it!
Stimps wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:01 PM
I love the articles, but they really (no, completely honestly here) have more to do for me knitting for others. I'm a shoulder followed by a bust which then follows a straight line down to my hips, an then some legs. There really isn't a line that goes farther in for me, unless (which I often must) go in for the pregnant underbust shaping thang. I'm not carrot shaped, I'm kind of, well, maybe sort of human-style ginger shaped. Sigh.

I love the information, but I still wish I could find a way to make my strange shape work better.
Catherine wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:04 PM
I love all this help on shaping!! The reason I never wear my sweaters is because of problems with the waist! I am ready to take apart part of the Cable-down raglan from last spring and redo it to fit the long-waistedness I never knew I had... and if it doesn't work, that sweater was one of the more enjoyable things I've ever knit, so I'm not afraid to fuss and take apart, over and over. At least, I don't think I'm afraid.

Another problem I have is with baggy underarms of sweaters- any help for that?
CarolD wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:05 PM
The series on shaping has been excellent. The best talkabout knitting I've seen in a long time! Who doesn't want their knitting to look flattering when the garment is done?! Perhaps when you feel you've ridden the topic long enough you can move onto color and texture and how they affect the way a garment looks: ie: a fuzzy yarn or textured stitch will make an area look larger (or will it?); a bold stripe of color, properly placed might make something look smaller. Just a thought. I trust the frog to whisper good ideas to you.- carol d.
RuthR wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:08 PM
I like the tutorial. Could you please send someone to hold my hand while I do what you say? It all sounds right and logical when I read the printed word. When I am staring down at yarn and a fabric that is supposed to be like the illustration in the pattern, nothing is logical.
Korie BethB wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:13 PM
This is a great article that speaks to me. I've recently gained too much weight in the stomach area, and after a lifetime of an hourglass figure am learning how to dress the current crisis.
SharonG wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:14 PM
I'm not even a knitter, really, and I enjoy reading these tips on shaping. (I crochet--thread, mostly--and am teaching myself very slowly to knit.) Thanks for this series of posts. They're very informative, and they've nearly persuaded me to research a new project....
QueenM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:16 PM
I think it is rather hard to take you seriously when you think your 'girls' are big. It would be nice to see some of the gallery pics on larger sizes. My 'girls' measure 55 inches yet few patterns accomodate me.
MarleneD wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:16 PM
Thank you for a wonderful series, I've learned a lot here. However, I would love the printed silk cardigan to have a less "scooped" out neckline, or maybe a whole different pattern would be called for, with the under bust shaping as in the original. Any suggestions?
LauraH wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:18 PM
I think this series on shaping is GREAT! But please don't forget that some of us just find that an up-and-down jacket is our favorite thing.
RebeccaW wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:23 PM
Thank you Sandi for the great series on shaping, and figuring out how to measure, and putting everything into perspective. I feel more comfortable reading the pattern, looking at the drawing showing the finished measurements, and envisioning the the completed project fitting properly.
JudeM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:24 PM
This is an excellent set of articles. It reinforces my new-found recognition that a little shaping might actually be flattering on me, instead of my usual baggy, shapeless look. Now, my big challenge, and what I'd love to know more about: my shoulders are somewhat narrow, and I'm a plus-size person. Clothing that fits in the bust hangs off my shoulders and sags and bags between bust and underarm. I despair of doing my own tailoring in that upper-chest/shoulder area!! Can you please do a workshop on shoulders?
EllenF wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:24 PM
What do I think? I think your knitting daily e-pages are great. I love your wit and I'm learning oodles. Keep up the good work! Ellen Foley, Salt Lake City, Utah
Anonymous wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:25 PM
I love this shaping series, please continue. I echo what someone mentioned in these posts about doing a series on how to take all this neat shaping info we have on ourselves and figure out how to actually modify a pattern. I know my numbers, but am brain dead in trying to apply those numbers to a pattern!
EstelleM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:34 PM
I think you should address plus size women - we don't necessarily want to "show off" any particular part, just make them all look nice. My bust is 48 and my hips are 50 - it's really difficult to get your patterns to fit me and I wish they did.
LauraM wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:37 PM
The Shaping Series has been very informative, and especially the final segment, Being the Boss, sets just the right note.
SusanG wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:51 PM
I haven't been reading this series as I do not want to knit form-fitting garments,but I see they are "in style" so it may be a hot topic. I think too much advertising is overloading the newsletter.
I already subscribe to several publications,thought this one would have something different,not repeats of the magazines.
CaroleL wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:52 PM
Love your shaping series! I am a fearless knitter who wants to learn as much as I can to make a knitted garment FIT! I am now learning more about EZ's percentage method and find it both challenging and informative. Your series on shaping complements EZ's method and give more information on where to increase or decrease! Great information! This is the first time I have found anything that addresses something other than basic or general advanced knitting! Keep up the Great work! More, More, More!
NancyP wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:54 PM
I love the shaping series. Have always thought a set in style sleeve was more flattering than the dropped shoulder and this confirms that a bit of shape elsewhere is better too. I love the Printed Silk Cardigan except the gap at the front. Wondering how to get the edges to hang straight together. If that happened, I would be casting on in a heartbeat! :-)
AgnesL wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:55 PM
I am very much enjoying the shaping series. I am beginning to experiment with a number of things such as combining things I like from two different patterns into one sweater. I would love to have a workshop on seaming after you finish this one. This is one aspect of knitting that scares me to death for some reason so I keep making raglan sweaters from the neck down. How I long for some set-in sleeves!!! Keep up the good work, Sandi. Love your humor and and the way you make us feel good about ourselves whatever shape we are in!
NancyD wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:56 PM
Sandi: great stuff. very helpful. I really appreciate all the hard work you pur into Kniting Daily.
SusanR wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 4:57 PM
Your finished bust sizes on patterns seem to end with 47 inches, or maybe up to 51 inches, for finished sizes. What do you so with bust sizes that start with 50 to 52 inches, not the finished sizes. American women are big, big, bigger these days. What does a woman do who does not want breast reduction sugery. I think you need to be more in league with reality.
Happygoo25 wrote re: Waist Shaping: Not Just For Waists Anymore
on Mon, Mar 10 2008 5:14 PM
I really like the fitting posts! But for those who want heavier sweaters these ideas can easily be used on heavy wools. If making a bulky weight straight barn jacket one can still decrease at the back waistline area t