In the last post, we worked out the math to get us from hem to hip on a pullover worked in the round from the bottom up.
Now that we are ready to actually dive into the waist shaping, there is a decision to be made: subtle shaping or curvy shaping?
Gentle curves: Dovetail Pullover (Spring 2008)
Remember,
you are in control of the shaping, and there is no rule that says you
have to do dramatic decreases that give you a totally hourglass
attitude when all you want is a bit of a nipping in at the waist. You
can decide how much shaping you prefer in a given garment. Too much
waist shaping, and you're going to show e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g you've
got—not good, not unless you are Beyonce. Too little waist shaping, and
we're back to the box
again. In general, if you have a rectangular figure (thick or thin),
you'll want to go for the gentle waist curves; if you have any amount
of hourglass tendencies, play them up a bit more with more pronounced
curves.
Subtle shaping
Here, I thought we could turn to one of the experts in sweater construction and design, Ann Budd. In her book Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns, Ann has the following instructions for gentle waist shaping:
Sometimes a little shaping at the waist is all that's needed to turn
a casual boxy sweater into a sleek and slimming dressy sweater. Waist
shaping allows you to custom-fit a sweater to a bottom-heavy or
top-heavy figure. If the wearer's hips are broader than her bust (or
his chest), you may want to have more stitches at the hips, decrease
for the waist, then increase fewer stitches than were decreased to
reach the bust circumference. Conversely, if the wearer's bust is
larger than her hips, you may want to increase extra stitches above the
waist.
Decreases and increases should be evenly spaces to make a gentle
curve inward followed by a gentle curve outward. Typically, the
narrowest circumference is maintained for about an inch between the
last decrease and the first increase.
The easiest way to draw in the waist is to work a series of
decreases at the side seams of the front(s) and back of a sweater. For
balance, work on decrease at the beginning of the row and one at the
end of the row—there will be a total of 2 stitches decreased. *Work
even until the piece measures 1" from the decrease, then repeat the
decrease row. Repeat from * until the number of stitches decreases at
each side represents about an inch in width (i.e., total width of back
is 2" narrower). *Work even for about an inch, then increase one stitch
at the beginning of the row and one at the end of the row; there will
be a total of 2 stitches increases. Repeat from * until you have the
same number of stitches you began with (before the first decrease).
Excerpted with permission from Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns
by Ann Budd. Thanks Ann! And please note that while our warehouse is
out of stock until mid-April on this popular book, you can still
purchase it at your local yarn shop.
Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.
What's on Sandi's needles? I'm working away on the Secret
Project. I know, I know: It's taking me forever. I had to frog and
start over, because of course, Real Knitters Love Frogs.