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Knitting for Plus Sizes

Mar 9, 2011

Banstead Pullover by Lisa Shroyer    
Banstead Pullover by Lisa Shroyer


A note from Kathleen: Since I began knitting I've noticed a common cry among plus-sized knitters: "How can we make sweaters that look good on us?" I hear you, folks, and I echo your question. I've made lots and lots of sweaters in my knitting life, and many of them became gifts because they didn't fit me correctly. Much as I love seeing those sweaters on my friends and family, I wish they would have worked out for me.

I have no waist to speak of, and at some points in my life, my "waist" had been larger than my bust! Not my favorite look, but I learned to accommodate it in my knitting by never doing waist decreases if a pattern called for them. I'm an apple shape, and waist decreases just emphasize that.

I've done modifications like this in an ad hoc way—planning them as I need them, without much education about how to do it.

That's all about to change thanks to the new book Knitting Plus by Lisa Shroyer, which is full of amazing information and patterns for us plus-sized gals. Among many other plus-size topics,  Lisa talks about different construction types and how to make modifications to fit our unique shapes.

After reading Knitting Plus, I feel like I now have the tools now to choose patterns that will be flattering on me, and to help me make changes to patterns that I'm just dying to knit, but that don't have the right proportions for my body. I particularly love Lisa's Banstead Pullover! I'm going to cast on this sweater right after I carefully analyze my measurements and the pattern schematic to see what changes I'll need to make. I'm confident now that I can make this sweater look great on me.

There's so much to learn from Knitting Plus, I thought I'd invite Lisa to Knitting Daily to tell you more about it. Here she is!

Successful Knitting for Plus Sizes


What makes one sweater different from the next? Besides surface designs, like colorwork or cables, besides design elements like a collar or wide buttonband, what are the meaningful differences? What key distinction between these two garments affects the fit, the pattern, and your ability to modify more than any other?


     The Waltham Cabled Cardigan from Knitting Plus

Waltham Cabled Cardigan
by Kathy Zimmerman




The Barton Cardigan by Marly Bird
is a seamless yoke.




The sweater's construction type.

In Knitting Plus, I lay out the five standard construction types. For our purposes, construction refers to the sleeve/body join and the related shaping in both pieces.

I don't care if a sweater is worked bottom-up or top-down, in the round or flat, as a cardigan or a pullover-the rules that govern sleeve/body join are universal. The difference between the Banstead Pullover (above right) and the Waltham Cabled Cardigan (top right) is that the first is a raglan and the second, a drop-shoulder.

If you make the sleeve of the Banstead wider, the neck opening will become larger. If you make the sleeve of the Waltham wider, you won't be able to seam the sleeve into the armhole.

Those are two very different effects, caused by the same modification to the sleeve. If you know that you generally need a wider sleeve, it will serve you greatly to know how that need integrates with all the construction types, and how to compensate for your mods.

What if you haven't gotten that far yet? You don't know if you need wider sleeves; you don't know how to choose a size to knit if you have an unusual body shape. I have lots of tips in the book for these issues and others, but here's a quick exercise I recommend once you've chosen a design to knit.

Based on your bust size, decide which size in the pattern you would typically knit. Looking at the Banstead pattern and knowing I'd like a close fit, I'd choose the size 42" bust.

Find the schematic in the pattern. Highlight all the numbers that are relevant to your chosen size.

The Banstead Pullover schematic
Get out your measuring tape and "try out" all these numbers on your actual body. For my size, the upper sleeve is 15" in circumference, so I loop a tape measure into a 15" circle and slide it up my arm to just below my armpit. How does the loop fit? Does it fit at all? Tweak the loop to a circumference that fits best and write this on the schematic.

Do this for hips (remembering to multiply the hem width by two to get the circ), with body length, sleeve length, cuff width, and any other elements that you can measure on your own body. You can then see, at a glance, if your chosen size will fit you in places besides bust circumference.

If your numbers are ranging far from the pattern numbers, you will need to know how to modify those areas, while not disrupting the fit and structural integrity of your garment.

In that way, Knitting Plus contains info that's useful for all knitters, but in this case, it's specifically geared to plus-size women. As ample knitters, we're told all the time to "figure it out," "modify it," "customize the shaping," et cetera, and I hope this book will help you finally do so successfully.

Pick up your copy of Knitting Plus today and get started knitting sweaters that fit and flatter you!

Happy knitting!


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Knitting Plus Mastering Fit + Plus-Size Style + 15 Projects

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Knitting Plus is the must-have manual for plus-sized sweater construction and knitwear design. With this playful guide, you'll learn how to design wearable, tailor-made sweaters that have that perfect custom fit.

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Comments

maiden10 wrote
on Jun 1, 2011 3:07 AM

Knitted articles are very nice to look at. I love to do crocheting and knitting myself but I just don't have a very good amount of time doing them. I learn to crochet and knit when I was in Junior high school. Frankly speaking, I love to do these stuff than doing essays and <a href="www.essaywriter.co.uk/.../a> projects.

Debba2 wrote
on Mar 9, 2011 3:32 PM

This is great...for starters.  Now, if designers for large women would just make their creations at minimum 3 inches longer, it would be even better.  I won't wear any top under 30" long, and prefer 32".  To my eye, these sweaters don't even look that good on the models, because the bulk of the knitting is all concentrated into the top of the body, just adding volume that really needs to be distributed over more of the frame.

SabineT wrote
on Mar 9, 2011 12:18 PM

It's great to see some more designs for bigger women. Over the years I've seen a few and the only thing that stood out for me - they were all so "matronly". What about the big teenagers? The big 20 year olds? Or the women who never wear skirts and blouses? I shouldn't be so ungrateful, I know. But I wish someone would do "big design" for younger women. I hope none of the women in the pictures are teenagers - they'd be horrified now. I apologise in advance, I don't want to offend anyone, for sure.

JudyW wrote
on Mar 9, 2011 11:36 AM

This is a great post for all knitters!  I always have problems with fit for myself (a "regular" size) and firmly believe that there are very few bodies that fit all the measurements for a given size.  I end up giving away or storing most of the sweaters I have made for myself.  Are there any publications like this for regular sizes?

on Mar 9, 2011 9:49 AM

Thank you so much for the info on +size knitting.  I've been knitting anything but sweaters and socks for several years.  I finally decided during Selfish Knitting Month to FINALLY make something for me.  I love big sweaters, regardless of my claim to be losing weight.  I found a Vogue raglan sleeve sweater.  The bottom rolls up (I don't like ribbing which always falls at my worst parts.)  I followed the pattern to a T.  Sleeves fit fine.  Bust was only a little bit tighter, but not uncomfortable.  The sweater stopped above my belly button, and trust me - no one is ready for THAT visual.  I gave it to my 9 year old daughter, who loves it.  Since the sleeves also roll, she just rolled them up.  I measured underarm to waist or rather underarm to the optimum cover-this-part-up measurement, only to find it was only an inch longer than the pattern gave.  I looked at a child's sweater on LBrand, and same thing.  The length on that sweater should have matched my chunkiest parts.  On my needles now is the Tank of Many Colors, which I was all gung-ho to do, until my other disaster didn't hang right.  So now, I'm going to study this knitting tip and get a book on plus size knitting before I do anything further on the tank.  At first I was going to unravel the tank and RUN back to knitting toys and holiday decorations, but after I read this hint, I think I will give it another try.  Thank you again for posting this!  PJFizzyknits