Knitting Daily : Blocking

Free pattern: Child's Fair Isle Hat

KD Sandi — Fri, 15 May 2009 08:13:00 GMT

Note from Sandi: Knitting for a child seems to bring out in us the longing to make something worthy of being passed down through the generations. Here is Lisa Shroyer's contributrion to the staff design challenge for Interweave Knits Summer 2009: "Design an Heirloom."

Sweet Hex Child’s Hood
by Lisa Shroyer

Thinking about heirloom knitting brings up visions of intricate tapestry fabrics, long-loved silk baby items with deteriorating edges, natural colors, bits of lace as seen through a glass display case in a museum. I thought about fine gauges, rich patterning, and traditional techniques for this staff project. But what function for my heirloom knit? Heirlooms tend to collect around the milestones of life—births and weddings and religious ceremonies. None of those celebrations are personal to me at this time, so I was free to think about what I just really wanted to knit. And for me, that’s always stranded colorwork.

This child’s special-occasion hood is worked in two neutral colors in the round with one steek. You can see from the blocking photo how I cut open the steek with the stitches still live, blocked it, then later Kitchener'd the live stitches at the top of the hood to make a pocket-like shape. The steek edges and decorative cords are tucked into facings and tacked down.

In a silk/wool blend, this hood has a luxurious feel and shimmer, but does require machine reinforcement for the steek. It’s not that scary! (The Winter 2006 issue of Interweave Knits has a great tutorial on steeking.)

The hood is intended for a child about 8 years, but the fit is versatile and could work on kids from 5 to 10. You can see we also tried it on an adult model, and it’s really cute! The hood fits her more like a bonnet, but you get the idea. On a smaller head, the back edge will fall closer to the nape of the neck. If you want the hood for yourself, try working in a worsted weight yarn for a larger version.

PS. The title for this project comes from the decorative hex designs of the Pennsylvania Dutch. It’s a loose interpretation, but the motif here is an isolated, self-contained square with elements radiating from the center.

For more great ideas on how to "Design an Heirloom", get your copy of Interweave Knits Summer 2009, or for year round inspiration, subscribe to Interweave Knits today.

Download the free pattern for the Sweet Hex Child's Hood

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Baby Patterns from Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Baby Knitting Patterns

This FREE downloadable eBook consists of seven of Interweave’s best-loved baby knitting patterns. Knitting for babies is fun for you, and appreciated by those who enjoy the finished product. Knit your favorite free baby patterns today—smiles are guaranteed. Download your copy (and don’t forget to tell a friend so they can enjoy their own copy!).

Download Your Free eBook Today

Using Blocking Wires to Block Lace Shawls

KD Sandi — Wed, 06 May 2009 12:11:00 GMT

For years, I have used pins to block my lace shawls--dozens and dozens of T-pins, painstakingly placed and then adjusted one by one until every single point was just right, and every single motif was shown off to its best advantage.

I'd heard of blocking wires, but never given them much thought, until a friend at knit night said, "Oh, you really ought to try them if you do a lot of shawls--they make blocking the shawl go so much faster, and you can get all the points even fairly quickly."

That got my attention. I'm pretty meticulous when I pin out my shawls, and it can take me a really long time to get a large shawl with lots of points pinned out to my liking. So I bought a set of blocking wires, and tried it out on the next shawl...and Oh. My. Goodness. What a difference the wires made! All the points, exactly the same length, all even, without me pinning and unpinning and re-pinning them over and over again.

I will say, however, that the obsessive in me misses that deep connection that is formed between a knitter and her shawl during the process of pinning and adjusting a gadzillion pins. I'd lovingly pat out every motif, every point, and pin everything Just So. The blocking wires do a lot of this work for me...so I do sort of miss that precise, detailed, pin-every-yarnover-into-submission-for-an-entire-morning sort of experience. However, for speed, and overall consistency, blocking wires cannot be beat.

You can get the general idea of how to use blocking wires from the photos here; but I've also put together a step-by-step photo tutorial just in case you'd like the whole glamorous process shown in living color.

About the green shawl: I needed a shawl to use for this tutorial, and I did not have one available; so I knit a mini-shawl in the Estonian style, using patterns and techniques from Knitted Lace of Estonia by Nancy Bush. The inner triangle is the Leaf Motif from Nancy's Triangular Leaf Scarf seen here, and the border is the Modern 16-Round Lace Edge from the stitch dictionary at the back of the book. I had a lot of fun choosing the stitch patterns for this little shawl--and it took me only four evenings to knit!

If you'd like to knit your own Estonian lace shawl, Knitted Lace of Estonia is a great resource for techniques and patterns. It has 14 stunning shawl patterns, plus a library of traditional stitch patterns at the back of the book that you can use to customize your own creations. Look for Knitted Lace of Estonia at your local yarn shop, or order it here.

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knitting Lace: Knitting Daily Presents 7 Free Knitted Lace Patterns

Are you addicted to lace knitting? Or maybe you've admired some of the gorgeous knitted lace patterns out there and want to give lace knitting a try? Here are seven of Interweave's top knitted lace patterns, gathered together in one FREE ebook for you.

Whether you are a first time lace knitter, or a seasoned expert, you'll enjoy the timeless beauty of knitting lace. Get these stunning projects that will continue to inspire, and be loved for generations to come. You'll want to make every one of these lace patterns, so download your free eBook now and get started (and don't forget to tell a friend so they can enjoy their own copy!)

Download Your Free Lace Patterns Today

Video: Blocking A Large Lace Shawl

KD Sandi — Mon, 04 May 2009 12:10:00 GMT

If I am knitting a piece of lace in public, friendly strangers will ask, "What are you knitting?" When I tell them it is a lace shawl, they get this very polite, back-away-slowly-from-the-crazy-woman look on their face. I look down at what I am knitting and realize that to them, the rumply thing on my needles looks more like some bit of knitting my cat may have mauled than the gorgeous lace shawl I can see in my mind. Lace doesn't look like much when you are knitting it--in fact, on the needles, lace looks a bit of a crumpled mess!

But add the magic of blocking, and voila: That crumpled, rumpled mess spreads out to reveal its true beauty.

I've heard so many knitters wistfully say that they would love to try lace--"but where would I block it? I don't have a blocking board!" Most have heard stories of blocking a large shawl on one's bed, but don't have any clue about how to get started.

Today, I have a great video to show you how it's done--a clip from Knitting Daily TV Series 200, where Kathy Elkins demonstrates how to block a large circular shawl.

(Please visit the site to view this media)

If you have trouble watching the video above, click here to view it.

Looking for a great knitted lace shawl pattern? There are some pretty ones, from beginning to advanced, in the Interweave Store! Browse the lace shawl patterns in the store. (You might also check out the scarves and the wraps, too. You never know what might catch your eye!)

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knitting Lace: Knitting Daily Presents 7 Free Knitted Lace Patterns

Download Your Free Lace Patterns Today

Free Pattern: Summer Sneak Peek!

KD Sandi — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 11:29:00 GMT

Note from Sandi: While we do not have the Knits Summer 2009 Preview ready for you yet, we have the next best thing: a Free Pattern Sneak Peek! Eunny Jang, editor of Interweave Knits, is here to tell us about this special sweater. Here's Eunny!

When Karen Kendrick Hands first showed me the prototype for the Grotto Cardigan, I was smitten - the classic wrap sweater shape is always flattering and wearable, but she'd refined it by knitting in two symmetrical halves for fit and adding sweet gull-wing cables that run up the sleeves and shoulders and flow neatly around mitered corners. Knitted in an airy hand-dyed mohair and silk yarn, the Grotto Cardigan can take you through spring to the cool evenings of summer all the way into cooler fall weather.

-- Eunny

Download the free pattern for the Grotto Wrap now

Looking for that perfect summer project?
Our Interweave Pattern Store has hundreds of patterns to choose from!

There's a whole section called Tops, Tanks, and Camisoles--stroll through those and you might fall in love with a cute little number.

For those chilly summer nights, pop on over to the Shawls and Wraps section.

And since summer is when we are all on-the-go--how about a knitted tote bag or shoulder bag? Check those out here: Bags and Totes.

The hardest part won't be finding something you like...the hardest part will be choosing which one to cast-on for first!

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? I finished my small lace shawl and blocked it, using blocking wires for the first time--much faster than hand-pinning, with good results. I'm going out tonight, so I think I'll wear it to celebrate!

Plan A Finishing Party!

KD Sandi — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 14:26:00 GMT

Note from Sandi: My boss is a knitter. (How many folks get to say that?) She also used to own a local yarn shop. She has also worked on Interweave Knits magazine in some capacity since the very beginning--now she is our publisher! (She's also a weaver and a crocheter and a spinner. Does she sleep? I don't think so.) All of this means she has lots of interesting stories to tell, so I keep dropping hints: "Marilyn, any time you'd like to write a post for Knitting Daily..." Last month, she started telling stories about the finishing parties she used to have at her yarn shop, and I thought you would like to hear them, too.

So: Here's Marilyn Murphy, publisher of all things fiber-y here at Interweave.

“Oh I am SO close to finishing _________.” “I’ll just wrap the yarn and the pattern and give ______ that this year with promises for completion next year.” C’mon. You’ve said these words or at least have thought them.

Years ago, I owned a great LYS in Chicago, the Weaving Workshop, and I have many fond memories of the holiday time. It was always a mix of the good and the bad. Good in that the shop was always bustling--last-minute gift purchases, buying yarn to start something over the holidays, desperate customers wanting their projects finished, or people wanting something custom made to gift to a loved one. Bad in that we never had time to make or finish our own gifts because we were the elves.

My store was located on a very busy street with tons of walk by traffic, located near the "L" (that’s Chicago speak for the elevated train). Because our windows caught the attention of hundreds of people daily, we enticed even the non-maker into the store, just in case they wanted to buy a finished item or had someone special on their holiday list. Books, accessories, equipment, sweaters, yarns, classes--all became gifts.

One year, we were so backed up on finishing, had our own gifts to finish, and we had many customers needing some cheering on as well, that we invited them to come for a finishing “all-nighter.” Videos were just becoming popular and we rented movies, had appetizers and pizza, and, of course, wine. We didn’t make it all night but we did work to the wee hours of the morning, but most importantly we had fun, encouraged each other, and completed our projects. I made multiple hats (in those days I could knit one on a size 8 needle in an hour). Kathy worked on her Fair Isle snowflake sweater. (She only worked on this sweater at holiday time. And, Kathy, if you’re reading this, let us know if ever finished it?) Judy seamed together many a sweater. Well, you get the idea.

We had other finishing parties over the years. One year a friend was having an exhibit of her knitwear designs--incredible intarsia sweaters that had a TON of ends. Two days before all the sweaters had to be sent off to the gallery, it was time to call in for reinforcements. She promised us food and wine and our knitting group showed up. We had our blunt needles in hand and, as a group that night, we wove in all the dangly threads and the art wear was ready for blocking.

At Interweave, we are working on finishing all those projects during our weekly craft lunch right now. Craft lunch is scheduled every Wednesday, but this month, it’s all about finishing things in time. I’m knitting a vest for my niece (the first one, the Shadowy Vest, is featured in Holiday Gifts; the pattern is a free download). I have one more to make after this one is complete so three of my nieces/nephews will have matching vests. Amy Clarke Moore, editor of Spin-Off, is knitting the sweater for her dad that she wrote about in her Knitting Daily post The Ten-Year-Sweater. We’re really cheering her on to complete it this year. Liz Gipson, co-host of Knitting Daily TV, is using a knitting bag from Interweave Knits as a flat pattern for her felted woven fabric and is gifting it to her “hm” ( I can’t reveal that). Liz Good, assistant editor of Fiberarts, is knitting a sweater for herself—imagine that. And Rebecca Daniels, assistant editor of Interweave Knits, is quickly knitting a project for PieceWork but by next week she’ll be thick into a project for an upcoming issue of Knits. This Wednesday, we’ll be back crafting together and as the day ticks ever closer, we may have to ramp it up to more than once a week.

So if you need some cheering on, and cheering up, plan your own finishing party. And know that there are many of us encouraging you on as well.

-- Marilyn Murphy
President and Publisher (Fiber Group)
Interweave Press

Finishing Techniques

Need a reminder how to do the mattress stitch? Don't know how to sew in a zipper? Forgotten how to make a pom-pom? Here are some helpful links to finishing techniques to help you through the last stages of your Christmas knitting:

Three-needle bind-off
Mattress stitch seam
Whipstitch
Sewing in a zipper
Backstitch seam
I-cord
Kitchener stitch
Sewn bind-off
Blocking
Pom-poms

And if the worst happens a week before Christmas....Ripping Out Without Ripping Your Hair Out.

Twelve days until Christmas...Need a quick gift idea? No problem!

Knitting Daily is here to help. Well. OK. I can't knit your projects for you, and I can't weave in your ends. But this nifty little website I work for here has lots of last-minute holiday knitting (and crocheting!) gift patterns for you:

Christmas Stockings eBook: Well, I suppose you could GIVE someone this ebook if they are a knitter. But what about knitting them a stocking out of this ebook instead? Seven great patterns. One nifty price!

Take a look at the Gifts & Whimsies section of our pattern store for more ideas. Something for everyone. Felted slippers (those are knitted; here are some crocheted slippers), neckties for the men in your life, dolls, dog sweaters, warm mittens, shopping totes--heck, there's so much in there I can't list it all. Go take a look and you're sure to find something nifty to knit or crochet.

And free stuff! We have free stuff!

A Litte Something Special: Five knitted ornament patterns from the Interweave staff

Crochet Gift eBook: Free and fun and fab, with five fast gifts for your family! (Whew!)

The Shadowy Vest: Marilyn is pictured above working on an entire trio of these!

Check out the Knitting Daily Free Pattern Library for more good (free) stuff!

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles this week? The Leaf and Nupp Shawl from Knitted Lace of Estonia by Nancy Bush. I'm obsessed. I am done with 15 (now nearly 16!) out of the 21 repeats I want to do to make the scarf long enough; then I have the four-sided border to complete. What do you think? Can I finish this scarf in time for Christmas?

Tips for When You Don't Have A Blocking Board

KD Sandi — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 13:28:00 GMT

Spray blocking on a blocking board

After years of blocking my knitting and crocheting on kitchen counters, floors, and dryer tops, I finally broke down one day and bought an Official Blocking Board. All that time, I'd been telling myself that I didn't need anything fancier—that is, until I started dealing with a serious lace habit. One day, I tried blocking my newest shawl on a makeshift foam board that I thought was waterproof ... but guess what. It wasn't. The board warped as the shawl dried, and the shawl warped along with it. I ended up having to re-block the shawl all over again. (Not fun, especially when I was anxious to wear it and show it off!)

A blocking board definitely makes the task of blocking a lace shawl easier, but you don't need an Official Blocking Board to do the job well. Knitters have been using mattresses, towel-padded floors, and other ingenious solutions throughout history.

Whatever creative solution you come up with for use as a blocking surface, be sure to keep these guidelines in mind:

Use the right surface for the task. A kitchen counter-top or a table padded with towels works fine for pieces that can be simply patted into shape. For items that need to be pinned out, such as lace shawls, you can try waterproof foam-core boards, an ironing board (for small pieces), or cork bulletin boards (covered with towels). Someone once suggested those interlocking rubber floor mats used for children's play areas—I thought that was rather clever.

Make sure the surface is water-friendly. All blocking methods involve water in some way, so make sure that water will not ruin whatever you are using. Note: This includes surfaces that may have dyes that might bleed through when wet!

Make sure that the surface is easily accessible. If you have arthritis in your knees, a set of rubber mats on the floor may not be the best choice for you, especially for anything lacy that takes a long time to pin out.

Your blocking surface has to be big enough for the biggest dimension of your knitting. You can't really block half of a scarf at a time, so the top of the dryer won't work well for large or long pieces.

The surface has to be something you won't need to use for other things for a day or three whilst your piece is drying. I've known some knitters to use their bed for blocking; this can be problematic if the knitting will take days to dry (unless you like sleeping on the floor).

Put your blocking out of the way. Your blocked piece needs to be undisturbed until it is completely dry, so keep
it out of range of cats, kids, dogs, and well-meaning housemates.

The comments on a previous post here contain dozens of clever ideas for blocking surfaces from your fellow readers, so check them out! And be sure to leave your own tips in today's comments, because no doubt some of you have even more great ideas from your own experiences.

-- Sandi

Sandi's Pick: Stocking Stuffer Idea

Does your family fill your stocking with toothbrushes and little bars of herbal soap at Christmas? Those are nice and all, but wouldn't you really rather have something knitterly? There are, after all, plenty of little things that fit in your stocking that aren't just your average stitch markers...And your family may think (silly them!) that you already have all the stitch markers and wee pairs of scissors you could ever need. (They're wrong, of course, but that can be a tough sell.) So maybe they need a little hint?

How about The Harmony Guides 101 Stitches to Knit Card Deck? The cards--each with a different stitch pattern--are a nice readable (yet portable) size (5.25" by 6.5"); they're quite sturdy, with rounded corners to help prevent damaging the edges. The front of the card has a color photo of the stitch, and the back has the full step-by-step instructions for the stitch. The stitches are favorites from The Harmony Guide series: some are from the Lace & Eyelets book, some are from the Cables & Arans book, and some are from the Knit & Purl book, so you get a little of everything! The set comes with an 8-page insert that tells how to use the cards.

And lest you think we've forgotten the crocheters: Check out The Harmony Guides 101 Stitches to Crochet Card Deck, with stitches from both The Harmony Guide: Basic Crochet Stitches and The Harmony Guide: Crochet Stitch Motifs.

Hot tip! Know what my favorite thing is about these stitch card decks? I can go through them to find stitch patterns I like, and then I can lay out my choices side by side to compare the designs before making my final choice. Now THAT'S nifty. (Kind of like playing Knitting Solitaire!)

Look for these great Interweave books at your local yarn shop, or purchase them from our online store.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles this week? I took my Leaf and Nupp Shawl to Alabama with me--it's amazing how fast lace knitting goes on a cross-country plane trip when there's no one to pester you! How far did I get? Check back later this week for photos!

Blocking Tips: Acrylic and Other Non-Woolly Fibers

KD Sandi — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 15:26:00 GMT

Note from Sandi: There were so many questions on blocking different sorts of fibers when I ran last week's posts on blocking that I decided to expand a bit on some tips I gave when this series was originally published in July of 2007. Here's a few thoughts on blocking non-wool fibers...

(Are you the kind of person who learns by watching? Episode 103 of the first season of Knitting Daily TV has a great lace blocking demo, and Episode 201 of the upcoming second season shows how to block large projects! Buy the Season One DVD or pre-order the Season Two DVD.)

Choose the right method for your fiberWhich blocking method should you use for which fiber?

Do you block acrylic and other non-sheepy, non-planty fibers? I've heard blocking kills them! What kills acrylic and some other human-made fibers is direct application of heat. So: Don't iron them. (If you must apply steam, keep the iron or steamer high enough above the fabric so you don't melt or scorch the yarn.)

But Sandi, tell us the ANSWER: Do you NEED to block acrylic? Welllll. Here's where I have to make an admission. I have not knit with acrylic yarn since I was a teenager, so I don't actually have any personal experience with this. What I do know is that many experienced knitters say you don't need to block acrylic. Given that, and given that I believe deep in my knitter's heart that blocking has miraculous results, if I were to knit something out of acrylic (or any other unfamiliar fiber, for that matter), I would knit five swatches--yes, five--and then try a different blocking method on each one: immersion, steam, spray, jelly-roll-of-wet-towels, and no blocking at all. I might use pins on one or two, and just pat out the others. After they dried, I would evaluate the look, feel, and drape of each swatch. The swatch I liked best would be my guide for blocking the finished garment.

What about cotton? Cotton is extremely non-elastic, so the key here is to be very careful not to stretch the fabric out of shape during the blocking process. If you use a wetting method that gets the knitting thoroughly wet, make sure to support the fabric so that it doesn't hang and get pulled by its own weight. And of course, cotton will shrink with the application of too much heat, so watch the iron/steamer/hot water and keep the temperatures low to medium.

How about linen? Ah, linen...fiber of Egyptian queens and kings. Linen is extraordinarily strong, and surprisingly, is actually stronger when wet. For the Spring 2006 issue of Interweave Crochet, I designed a lace capelet out of a green linen. That capelet took me so long to design that I was horribly afraid of damaging it during the blocking process, so I read everything I could get my hands on about blocking linen. Here's the method I came up with, based on my studies: I soaked the capelet in hot water and organic liquid detergent for forty-five minutes, to allow the fibers to get thoroughly wet. Then I rinsed the garment in cold water--the shock of the temperature change allows the fibers to break down and soften just a bit. I repeated this hot/cold cycle a couple of times, then soaked the capelet in hot water one more time. While the garment was dripping wet, I placed it in a Tupperware container, sprinkled lavender buds over it, sealed the container, and put it in the freezer overnight. (Yes, I am totally serious.) Next morning, I rinsed the garment in warm water until the ice melted, then whacked it against the counter a few times to loosen things up. I spread it out on a rack to let it drip dry a bit; then I took a hot iron and ironed every little lace flower into place, letting things cool completely before moving them off the ironing board. I know this sounds totally and completely wacky, but all the sources I read said to subject the linen to a little bit of abuse in order to soften the fibers. And I'm telling you: That capelet is the softest, shiniest, most durable garment I have ever owned. It's completely luscious to the touch and a joy to wear.

Which wetting method did you use for the Bonsai? My yarn is Berroco Bonsai, an absolutely lovely bamboo ribbon yarn, with drape and a teeny, tiny bit of "crunch" that adds texture and memory. I blocked my swatch using my garment steamer (I LOVE my garment steamer), but I wasn't thrilled with the results. The heat seemed to take away a bit of the sheen of this lovely yarn. So for the back of my tunic, I used the spray method, and sprayed liberally until the fabric was quite damp. I was really happy with how it came out. REMEMBER: You might prefer how your garment looks when steam-blocked! It's YOUR knitting, not mine. Experiment to find a way that works for you.

On Wednesday: What do you use if you don't have a blocking board?

Sandi's Picks For The Holidays

I always think of the holidays as a time of storytelling--we tell the stories of our traditions, our families, and our beliefs in our celebrations and in our gatherings. I like to listen to stories on CD while I am knitting and travelling--audiobooks make the stitches and the time fly by. May I suggest two audiobooks of knitting stories for you? Knitting Memories and Knitting Lessons, both edited by Lela Nargi and distributed by Interweave Press, are collections of tales by famous knitters such as Clara Parkes, Teva Durham, Vicki Howell, Trisha Malcolm, Kathryn Alexander, and more, narrated by an Audie-award winner (an Audie is the Oscar of the audiobook world). Listen to an excerpt from Knitting Memories; we have an excerpt from Knitting Lessons online as well. Look for these audiobooks at your local yarn shop, or buy them in our online store.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles this week? I took my Leaf and Nupp Shawl to Alabama with me, as well as the Aran Slippers. How far did I get? Check back later this week for photos!

Blocking Basics, Part 2

KD Sandi — Wed, 26 Nov 2008 13:11:00 GMT

Ready to block!

Note from Sandi: I am off to Mobile, Alabama, to spend time with Grandma Rose and Grandpa Manuel this week. But I didn't want to leave you without a little Knitting Daily in your email inbox! In July of 2007, I wrote a three-part series on blocking that seemed just perfect to share again as a way to help with last-minute holiday knitting madness--both yours and mine! After all: Even Knitting Daily editors need a little time off.

So while I am away, here's The Basics of Blocking, Part Two.

(Are you the kind of person who learns by watching? Episode 103 of the first season of Knitting Daily TV has a great lace blocking demo, and Episode 201 of the upcoming second season shows how to block large projects! Buy the Season One DVD or pre-order the Season Two DVD.)

(originally published July 27, 2007)

Shape garment from the center outwards

On Monday, we began our Adventure in Blocking with a review of the basic tools and preparations you need to make before you get started. Now that you have everything gathered together, and now that you have experimented with blocking your swatch (and of course, you would never, ever skip the swatching step, right? Of course not.), we can forge ahead with the actual blocking! We ended with Step 4 last time, so next is Step 5.

Step 5: If you are going to wet your knitting using the immersion method or the roll-in-wet-towels method, do it now. Immersion method: Soak the knitting in lukewarm water for about 20 minutes to let the water fully permeate the fibers. Squeeze gently. Never, ever twist, wring, or otherwise be rough with your knitting (unless, of course, what you want is a nice felted sweater!). Roll in dry towels to remove excess moisture (some people use the spin cycle of their washer, but this is for braver hearts than mine). Rolling-in-wet-towels method: Pretty much just as it sounds. Wet a large towel, wring out excess moisture, lay it flat with your knitting on top, and roll it up like a big wet jelly-roll-with-knitted-filling. Let it sit until the knitting inside is completely damp (this might take several hours). Steaming and spraying folks: Read on. Your turn comes later.

Don't stretch out the ribbing!

Step 6: Start pinning. Starting from the center and working outwards, smooth your knitting out to the approximate measurements, and start placing pins at wide intervals. What do you mean, start at the center? For the Bonsai Tunic, I started at the ribbed waistband (see note below about blocking ribbing!). I patted the upper back into place and pinned the center neck, then working again from the ribbed waist, smoothed out towards the armholes and pinned those. Then I did the same with the lower half, always working from the center waist downwards.

Step 7: Measure and re-pin as necessary to shape your garment more accurately. This is where the fun starts, particularly for all of us OCD knitters. Measure, pin, repeat. Use the schematic or finished measurements as a guide. How much can I stretch my knitting to obey me? Depends on the yarn, the gauge, and the garment. For most lace shawls, you can stretch it out to the fullest extent the stitches will reach. For all knitting, keep in mind that if you pull in one direction, your knitting will shorten in another direction to compensate. Try to keep the overall proportions correct and don't forget to allow for things like negative ease, texture, and how the stitches look.

Pinning out the lace pattern

Special note about blocking ribbing: See the photo of the waist ribbing on my Bonsai? Notice that it is NOT stretched out at all. I actually compressed it a bit, patting it evenly into place, and leaving most of it unpinned. (In contrast, I pinned the heck out of the lace skirt.) This will allow the ribbing to maintain its elasticity and shape.

Step 8: If you are a steamer or a sprayer, it's your turn now! Starting (again) at the center of the garment, carefully steam or spray the knitting, patting it with your hand to gauge the amount of moisture as you go. (Use caution with the hot steam, and maybe wait a second after applying the steam to let things cool a bit. Don't burn yourself! Burns might get in the way of casting on your next project.) Make sure to spray/steam your piece evenly so all parts of it absorb the same amount of water (and in the case of steaming, heat).

Step 9: Let dry thoroughly. Do not bother your knitting whilst it is drying. Leave it alone, close the door, keep your cats and overly-helpful roommates away. The impatient amongst you may use a fan to help the process along. If you really must use a blow dryer, remember that a blow dryer adds heat to the equation and consider carefully if heat is appropriate to your particular blocking situation.

Each star marks a pin

Final and most important step: Un-pin, and admire the beautiful drape, the awesome workmanship, and lovely stitches that comprise your knitting.

As I was taking the photos for this post, I realized that some folks might want a clearer photo of exactly where I placed the pins. I quickly discovered that the little silvery pin dudes wouldn't show up in the photos, so I dug around in the supply closet (I'm blocking this in a spare office at work, because I have four very helpful Assistant Felines at home) until I found some glittery foil stars. See the photo? Voila! Each star marks a pin location. Note that there are no stars at all in the ribbed waist section, but there are stars all over the lace skirt. I placed one pin near the top yarnover of each lace repeat, in the decrease immediately adjoining. For lace patterns, I like to place pins in the center of an ssk or k2tog, as those are the strongest parts of the knitting and thus less likely to distort. You can put pins in the yarnovers themselves, but be careful--you want the yarn to form a graceful "yarnover" and not an awkward "pointy-over!"

On Monday: Blocking acrylic, cotton, and other non-woolly fibers.

Sandi's Picks For The Holidays

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles this week? I am taking my Leaf and Nupp Shawl to Alabama with me, as well as the Aran Slippers. Those ought to keep me out of trouble, right?

Help for Finishing Holiday Gifts: Learn How to Block

KD Sandi — Mon, 24 Nov 2008 14:38:00 GMT

Everything you need to start blocking

Note from Sandi: The holidays are a time to be with family--not to spend locked away in a room trying to finish up your holiday knitting! In July of 2007, I wrote a popular three-part series on blocking that seemed just perfect to share again as a way to help with last-minute holiday knitting madness--both yours and mine! After all: Even Knitting Daily editors need a little time off, and I am winging my way to Mobile, Alabama to visit with Grandma Rose and Grandpa Manuel this Thanksgiving week.

So while I am away, here's The Basics of Blocking, Part One. And below I also give you two recommendations for audiobooks--knitting audiobooks, of course--to lend some holiday spirit to those last hours of holiday knitting.

(Are you the kind of person who learns by watching? Episode 103 of the first season of Knitting Daily TV has a great lace blocking demo, and Episode 201 of the upcoming second season shows how to block large projects! Buy the Season One DVD or pre-order the Season Two DVD.)

(originally published July 25, 2007)

Since I finished the back of the Bonsai Tunic last weekend (from Interweave Knits Spring 2007), I figured the best way to start talking about blocking was to do a bit of show-and-tell, starring my new best friend: the charming Miss Blocking Board! The board was a birthday treat for myself, and now that I've had a chance to drive Miss Board around the block a bit, I'm wondering what I ever did without her.

Note: The instructions given here will work for a variety of knitted and crocheted items.

Step 1: Gather the basic tools. You'll need the following:

A surface to block on. Blocking boards, mattresses, towel-covered tables, foam floor mats, cork boards...anything waterproof and pin-able.
Some means of getting your knitting wet. Depending on the method you choose (see below), you will need one of the following: spray bottle for spraying, sink big enough to immerse the piece, wet towels, or an iron or garment steamer.
Something to measure with. Experts such as Ann Budd suggest a yardstick rather than a tape measure, because tape measures can stretch and cause inaccuracies in your final measurements.
The pattern schematic and measurements. This is to guide you in coaxing the piece into its proper size and shape as you block.
Pins. Some people swear by using blocking wires, or strong cotton thread, to help eliminate pin-marks and scalloped edges. Try them if you have them. Whatever you use, make sure all materials are both waterproof and rustproof.

Step 2: Weave in your ends! Really. Take a deep breath and just do it. Blocking will help all those little loose ends get secured in place, and also will help "set the stitches" you weave the ends into, so they don't look quite as bumpy as you think they will.

Use the schematic as a guide

Step 3: Check the pattern measurements. Look at the schematic, if there is one; otherwise, look to see what the "finished measurements" section says. Measurement tip: If you made alterations to the pattern, you made notes along the way, right? Of course you did! Make sure that you account for any changes you made, such as a slightly different gauge, or customizations, when you block.

Step 4: Decide which wetting method is best for your knitting. You can spray, steam, soak, or roll in wet towels to get your knitting wet. Which method you use depends on the fiber content of the yarn, as well as the stitch pattern, garment type, and your personal experience and preferences. But which is the BEST method? The best method is the one that gives you the results you want with that particular yarn and stitch combination. (Sorry. I know you wanted The One True Answer, but it's not that simple.) Do your homework--read the yarn label, check the yarn company's website, read your favorite knitting books (all by Interweave, right? Right!), and then experiment--on a SWATCH, of course, not on the cabled pullover it took you months to knit (see, swatches are good for something besides driving us knitters insane).

The most important thing about learning to block your knitting is: It's YOUR KNITTING. Not my knitting, not anyone else's. Be bold! Try different things until you find what works for you. By experimenting, you might just stumble on an awesome blocking trick you can share with the rest of us!

I leave you with an astounding and amazing Knitting Fact: There is no such thing as The Knitting Police. I promise, on my honor as a knitter, that no one will come in the middle of the night to cart you off to Bad Knitters' Prison if the way you block isn't the way I block.

On Friday: Part 2 of The Basics of Blocking.

Sandi's Picks For The Holidays

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles this week? I am taking my Leaf and Nupp Shawl to Alabama with me, as well as the Aran Slippers. Those ought to keep me out of trouble, right?

Nancy Bush Shares Her Passion For Estonian Lace

KD Sandi — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 21:01:00 GMT

Note from Sandi: Ever wonder if famous designers look back on their early designs and say, "I would do that differently today"? We wondered this, too! Over the years, Nancy Bush, author of Interweave's new book Knitted Lace of Estonia: Techniques, Patterns, and Traditions, as well as the classic Folk Knitting in Estonia, has brought us dozens of patterns from this small but lovely European nation. We asked Nancy to take a look at a design she published seven years ago in the pages of Interweave Knits magazine, and to share with us what she has learned since then about Estonian lace knitting--and how she might go about knitting that same scarf differently now.

So please give a warm Knitting Daily welcome to Nancy Bush!

Greetings Knitting Daily Knitters!

I have been in awe of all of those knitter-bloggers out there, as it seems to me that there aren’t enough hours in the day to get all the knitting I want to do done, let alone read about it and write about it as well. But, now Interweave has given me this chance to see what it is like, I am already having fun!

I love talking, writing and thinking about Estonia and Estonian knitting, so am delighted to get the chance to share my passion on Knitting Daily.

When I designed this scarf (titled Estonian Lace in the Fall 2001 issue of Interweave Knits), I was a novice Estonian lace knitter. I had studied shawls I had purchased in Estonia, made numerous samples and played around with a number of shawl and scarf ideas. Today, after working for 3 plus years on my new book, Knitted Lace of Estonia, I feel I am no longer a novice. Perhaps not yet an expert, but definitely someone with a bit more knowledge than before and also with some opinions.

Now that I know what I know about Estonian lace knitting, there are a few things I would do differently if I was making this scarf again. This isn’t to say that it isn’t fine the way it is, but I think all of us go through the moment when we realize that it could have been done differently, for whatever reason. That is the place I am at today.

First, this scarf was inspired by a way of creating scarves and shawls in Estonia that I consider ‘modern’. In the traditional way of making a shawl or scarf in Estonia, if there is a lacy, scalloped edge it is attached by sewing. The center is knit first, set aside and the edge is knit, usually in two pieces, and then sewn to the center piece. I was rather horrified when I realized this, as the idea of sewing the edge to the center was not a happy thought for me. This construction made sense, when I realized that the early shawls were knit on short (9 or 10 inch long) single point handmade wooden needles. The edges were made on these same needles (some edges can have 250 stitches - on half!). In the original text for the pattern, I stated that the scarf follows the design of the (traditional) Haapsalu rätik or Haapsalu shawl. This, I now know, is not true, as it follows the design of a modern version of these traditional shawls, originally made in Haapsalu (a town on Estonia’s west coast).

My first experience with knitting Estonian shawls was a lesson I had with a master knitter in Tallinn, Estonia, my friend Hilja Aavik. She spent the day with me and taught me how she made her wondrous ‘modern-style’ shawls. She taught me how to make a nupp (button or knob - rhymes with soup) - a bobble-like feature in Estonian lace patterns, and also how to add a lacy scalloped edge onto a shawl or scarf, by picking up stitches and knitting the edge onto the center. I assumed this was how it was done, countrywide ever since these shawls were first made in the early 1800’s. As I studied further, asked questions and stared at shawls, I learned that this way of adding an edge was ‘modern’ and logically was ‘invented’ (no one knows by whom) with the coming of circular needles. These needles allowed all the stitches around the shawl to be picked up onto one circular needle. Then the edge is knitted, circularly and the corners are mitered (using increases) as the knitting progresses. The outer edge is bound off, with doubled yarn for strength and stability.

If I was going to design this scarf today: I would first state that it is done in the ‘modern’ method used in Estonia, not the traditional one. I would begin it exactly as I did those many years ago and knit the center in the same way. However, I would knit more rows of the center, or make it longer by quite a bit, as I think 55 to 60" finished would be a better length than the 46” that this one measures. Then, when picking up the lacy edge, I would pick up more stitches than I originally did, maybe 10 stitches more across the top and bottom of the scarf (so, instead of picking up 32, I might pick up 42 sts on each if the scarf is being made to the original 46" length). I also would pick up more stitches from the sides, maybe adding in an extra 20 sts total on each side (so 222 instead of 202 for the original length). If I were making a longer scarf, then I would of course need to pick up proportionately more stitches--perhaps even more than 3 stitches picked up for every 2 edge stitches. These added stitches will give a bit more ‘drape’ to the edges and the edge will stretch easier in blocking.

I am happy to have a chance to think about this pattern again and to give it a ‘new life’ on Knitting Daily.

-- Nancy Bush

Download the original Estonian Lace Scarf pattern for free

P.S. from Sandi: We also have Nancy's stunning Estonian Summer Shawl pattern for sale in our online store! This triangular shawl has an all-over Lily of the Valley lace motif and would make a spectacular wedding shawl.

Editor's Pick: Knitted Lace of Estonia

Estonia is a tiny country in Northern Europe; set on the shores of the Baltic Sea, it is neighbor to Latvia, Finland, Sweden, and Russia. We knitters know about this beautiful country through its rich local knitting traditions, brought to us with passion and dedication by Nancy Bush, author of Interweave favorites such as Folk Knitting in Estonia, Folk Socks, Knitting on the Road, and Knitting Vintage Socks. Nancy's newest book from Interweave is the gorgeous and fascinating Knitted Lace of Estonia: Techniques, Patterns, and Traditions.

It's no secret to Knitting Daily readers that I am a lace knitting junkie. I've seen a lot of books on lace knitting, but this one is special. How special? Special enought that I sat down and read it cover to cover as soon as I got it (work deadlines? what work deadlines?) and then carried it around in my knitting bag for weeks, so that I could pull it out and look at it whenever a wave of Lace Lust hit.Yeah, it's that good. Want to see for yourself? Take a look inside the book.

Look for Nancy Bush's books at your local yarn shop or purchase them in our online store. But try your local yarn shop first--local yarn shops are the heart of our communities, and they deserve your loyalty and your business.

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knitting Lace: Knitting Daily Presents 7 Free Knitted Lace Patterns

Download Your Free Lace Patterns Today

Exploring a Tricky Cast-On For Toe-Up Socks

KD Sandi — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:12:00 GMT

Eastern Cast On

I was flipping through the final proofs of the new Fall Knits with a colleague who is a beginning knitter, and when I got to the chapter on different cast-ons and bind-offs, she looked mildly puzzled and said, "You mean there's more than one?"

When we are beginners, we learn The One True Cast-on, and the One True Bind-off (and of course, these vary depending on who is teaching you), and we may happily use these, and only these, for most of our knitting lives. However, yes, Virginia, there is indeed a variety of different cast-ons and bind-offs, each one with a particular talent, if you will--each one does something a bit better than all its fellow COs and BOs. The article in the new Knits presents "invisible" cast-ons and bind-offs, which give the impression that your stitches simply weave back upon themselves, leaving a lovely, flexible edge that does not take away from the beauty of your stitching. (Sign up for a subscription to Knits so you never miss any of these great technical articles!)

I noticed that one of the other patterns in Fall Knits uses another very special cast-on, one that frequently drives knitters to distraction when they try to figure it out: the Eastern cast-on. This cast-on, found in the Bacchus Socks, is used at the toe-end of toe-up socks; you can also use it at the fingertip end of mittens worked top-down, or any place where you need to start out working in the round with a small number of stitches on either side of a "pretend seam"--as in the bottom of a bag, for example. So let's take a little walk-through of this useful cast-on, which as usual, looks harder than it really is.

Step-by-step photo tutorial for the Eastern cast-on

If you want to play along, you'll need three double-pointed needles and some practice yarn.

Step 1: Hold two of the needles in the palm of your left hand, parallel to one another, with just a smidge of space between them. (Don't clamp them together, but don't have more than a bit of breathing space between them either.)

Step 2: Start with the tail end of the yarn under both needles, to the far left of both needles, so that the working end is at the top. You may find it helpful to anchor the tail between two fingers just so it knows who's boss. (Figure 1)

Step 3: Begin wrapping the working yarn around both needles: from the top down over the front, then up behind the needles, and so on. Do this until you have 8 loops over the fronts of the needles; end with the working yarn over the front of the needles so it is at the bottom. (Figure 2)

Step 4: Bring the working yarn up behind the lower needle and into the space between both needles. (Figure 3)

Step 5: Scootch the 8 loops close together, and give a little tug to both the tail and the working end to even up the tension. You're ready to knit! Using the third dpn, knit the first loop on the top needle using the working yarn (you can release it from its place between the needles to do this). Pull the stitch off of the top needle ONLY; leave the bottom half of the loop on the bottom needle. TIP: I find it helps to move the top needle back so that its point is at least an inch away from the point of the lower needle out in front. This way, I can easily drop the stitch off the top needle without accidentally dropping it off the bottom needle. (Figure 4)

Step 6: Knit across all 8 loops on the top needle in this fashion, until you have 8 stitches on the third dpn and no loops left on the original top needle. TIP: Hold the yarn tail in place, particular on the last couple of loops. If they get all loosey-goosey on you, tug that tail until they behave. You're the boss. EZ says so, remember. (Figure 5)

Step 7: You now have a new top needle with 8 pretty new stitches, and the original bottom needle with the bottoms of the original loops. Rotate the entire shebang clockwise so that the bottom needle is now the top and vice versa. Scoot the stitches to the other ends of the needles, scoot the top needle back so the tip is about an inch back from the bottom tip. (Figure 6)

Step 8: Twisting the working yarn around the tail (on the back/wrong side of the work): Hold the tail to the right, and the working yarn to the left (refer to Figure 6 again), then bring the working yarn up around the back so it is in place for knitting, thereby catching the tail under the working yarn. Voila! That pesky tail stays in place. Now, knit across the loops on the (new) top needle, dropping the stitches off of the top needle only as before. Don't be afraid to adjust the tension by tugging on the tail or the working yarn as needed. (You still Da Boss.) Figure 7 shows how the right side will look when you are finished; Figure 8 is how the wrong side will look when you are finished. Take a look at what you have--it's a toe tip! Knit on to sock glory, my friends, knit on.

Sandi recommends

Each issue, Interweave Knits publishes an outstanding technical article in a series called Beyond the Basics. Eleven of the best Beyond the Basics (many from sold-out issues) have been updated and reprinted in the book The Best of Interweave Knits--including Ann Budd's classic article on cast-ons. Other technical articles in the book cover increasing, decreasing, short-rows, and blocking, because after all: Knits isn't just a magazine filled with beautiful patterns, it's also a great source of information that will help you learn to be a better knitter. Sign up to subscribe to Interweave Knits and then buy the Best of Interweave Knits to own some of the best patterns and technical articles from the past ten years.

Great Free Sock Pattern eBook:
Knitting Socks with Knitting Daily:
5 Free Sock Knitting Patterns

Need a new sock knitting pattern? Want a great free sock pattern? I've chosen five of our top sock knitting downloads and put them all together in one FREE ebook for you.

So what kind of sock patterns are in this eBook? Let's see. There's a knitted lace sock pattern, a cabled sock pattern, a colorwork sock pattern, a men's sock pattern, and an easy beginner sock pattern. Something for everyone!

Download Knitting Socks with Knitting Daily: 5 Free Sock Knitting Patterns

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily. She is flying along on the Camisa (dang, that's pretty yarn!!), and hopes to be able to wear it for you before she leaves for Canada!

Getting Started With Your Darts: Shoulders to Bust

KD Sandi — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:00:00 GMT

The First Step: Choosing The Right Pattern Size

For busty gals who want to use darts to help things fit better, here's a little trick: If you want a snug(gish)-fitting sweater, you can use your high-bust measurement, instead of your full bust measurement, to choose which pattern size to make. The fabric stretches over your bustline, then you use the darts to get things back down to proper size at your underbust and waist.

How To Find Your High Bust Measurement: Wrap the tape measure around your bust, just as though you were going to take your full bust measurement. In back, keep the tape measure where it is--level with the floor. In front, move the tape measure up so that it sits right at the place where you can feel your chest wall beginning and your breast tissue ending. This is your high bust measurement.

Why this works: You know how sometimes in the department store, you end up choosing a top that will fit over your bustline, but it's too big for the rest of you? Exactly. That's because, in essence, you just chose the top to match your full bust measurement, and not your torso measurements. Your high-bust measurement is (more or less) a measurement of your upper torso circumference. If you use that to pick a pattern size, then your sweaters will fit better in the shoulder area. Note to very full-busted women: You may need to choose a number that is between your high-bust measurement and your full-bust measurement. A (very) general rule of thumb: Add one additional inch to your high bust measurement for every cup size over a D/DD, and choose a size according to that number.

Don't Forget Your Ease! Remember our ongoing discussions about positive and negative ease? When choosing a size, keep in mind how much ease you prefer. My Hot Tomato fit VERY closely; I chose a size matching my high bust measurement minus about an inch (negative ease). So be sure to consider the stretchiness of your fabric (you did a gauge swatch, right?). In the Tomato, the large gauge of the cotton yarn stretched very nicely to accommodate my full bust. (Hint: After blocking your swatch, pin it down in its unstretched state and measure. Then unpin and stretch it to just before the stitches start to look overly distorted. Pin and measure. The difference between those two numbers gives you an idea of how much the fabric will stretch without distortion.)

Will The Fabric Really Fit Over The Ladies? If you have pickeed the right size according to the above guidelines, the fabric should stretch to accommodate the bust. Of course, the magic of a top-down sweater is that you can try it on as you knit. If you find that things are getting a little tight, work some increases to give yourself and The Ladies more room to breathe.

The Second Step: Knit Shoulders to Bust

For a top-down sweater, the process should look something like this:

Cast on the required number of stitches for the size you chose in order to fit the upper chest and shoulders area properly, keeping in mind your preferred amount of ease.
Knit according to the pattern, down to the fullest part of the bust. (Try on and adjust as needed.)
Work even for about one inch past the fullest part of your bust. (Less than a C cup? Work only a half-inch past the fullest part of the bust.)
Stop. You are ready to start the darts!

Third Step: Dart Game Plan

Here's a general overview of how the darts will work:

The darts begin just under the fullest part of the bust. You don't start right at the fullest part unless you want a very pointy shape. Starting about an inch (or half-inch) down from the fullest part allows a graceful curve to develop. (We like graceful curves.)

In a top-down garment, the darts form decreases from the widest part of the bust to the underbust. In other words, you want to start with the number of stitches which fit around your full bust and then decrease down to the number that fits around your underbust. NOTE: These dartly decreases are in addition to any waist shaping you might also be working.

I worked two vertical lines of decreases on each side in order to reduce the amount of fabric--and thus the bagginess--gradually and gracefully from bust to underbust. Two lines of decreases each side means two decrease stitches each side, or four decreases total per round.

And then...

Wednesday is Formula Day.

--Sandi

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Every knitter has dreamed of the perfect cardigan pattern that he or she might knit some day. From a cozy cable knit to luminous lace, this free ebook will be your dream come true. This is a wonderful and varied collection of cardigans-which is one of the most important pieces in your wardrobe. You'll want to make every one of these knit cardigan patterns, so download your free eBook now and get started (and don’t forget to tell a friend so they can enjoy their own copy!).

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My Beautiful Stiff-As-A-Board Sweater

KD Sandi — Wed, 28 May 2008 21:29:00 GMT

To my delight and horror I have found The Second Sweater I Ever Knit (garage cleaning can be a truly scary thing for a knitter).

I actually found this uh, "early work of art" a few weeks back, and have been gathering up my courage to share it with you all. Why courage, you ask? Well, first of all, I knit it when I was fourteen. Secondly, I knit it rather badly.

There it is in the photo. It's on Bertha because I'm fairly certain that anyone with arms couldn't get into that little pullover without dislocating something--like a shoulder, maybe, or possibly a neck. The armholes are tight, the neckline is small, and the waist...well. I must have been knitting for a life-sized Barbie doll. And the fabric...how shall I say this? The fabric could stop bullets, it is so stiff. See how the sleeves stick straight out from the body? Talk about a sweater holding its shape. That cute girly sweater could do double-duty as body armor.

To be fair: This really was only my second sweater ever. And I confess, I was blinded by a girlfriend crush. C'mon, you remember those horrible high school things, where you desperately wanted to be friends with someone who didn't even know you were on the same planet? Ah, yes. I was one of those super-dorky nerdy kids--big glasses, really dumb clothes, always in Honors Calculus but never picked for ball teams. The Beautiful Susan had red hair, green eyes, gorgeous clothes, and was just as good at sports as she was at math. I adored Susan...from afar, of course. I couldn't really get near her, because, well...I was a dork and she was a cheerleader. See? Doomed.

So, with the clear logic of teenagers, I decided to knit her a sweater. Yeah, I know. It makes total sense, doesn't it? I couldn't speak to her, couldn't be seen with her, but I could win her friendship with a handknit sweater. (Go me.)

I chose ivory yarn, because it would compliment her skin and her hair. I chose acrylic, because that's all there was at Woolworths. And I chose a puff-sleeve, textured, cropped-waist pullover pattern, because I thought it would make her look like a move star. And her size? I totally eyeballed it, because of course, when you're fourteen, you are gifted with extra-sensory perception and you know all things, right?

Oh. My. Goodness. Let us now count the ways in which both I and this project were doomed.

Not only was the gauge wrong for the yarn, and the yarn wrong for the gauge, but each and every stitch was knitted through the back loop. See how the ribbing at the bottom twists to the right? The whole sweater does that. The pattern did not require the stitches to be knit through the back loop, of course. I was just kind of going through a stage, shall we say.

The result was a sweater that might be considered by the police department for use as body armor. Knitted Kevlar. People in the Witness Protection Program could wear sweaters like this, be perfectly safe, and stylish, besides.

I thought perhaps blocking might work out the kinks a bit. So I washed it gently, let it dry, and breathlessly tried it on myself. (That, by the way, is how I discovered the part about not being able to get it on or off without nearly dislocating someting. I serously considered calling 911 to have someone come and help me get out of it.) The sweater was completely and utterly hopeless.

OK. Maybe not quite hopeless. It was never going to be worn by anyone other than Bertha, perhaps, but I've kept this sweater for quite a long time, unwrapping it periodically and viewing it rather fondly. Why? Certainly not because it reminds me to check my gauge, or knit my stitches properly.

I keep this sweater because a fourteen-year-old-girl spent her own money and hours of her own time knitting a sweater out of love for someone, someone who barely knew she was alive. In the end, of course, I was far too shy to even show the sweater to The Beautiful Susan; I packed it away in a box, taking it out now and then over the years to ponder it with affection: Why I would possibly invest so much in a gift for someone I barely knew? And why was I keeping it, year after year?

Because knitting is not always about perfect stitches and accurate gauge. Sometimes knitting is a way of telling a story to ourselves, and to those around us.

That sweater will never be wearable. But I think, out of all the sweaters I've knitted so far, it's kind of my favorite. I like the story it tells.

-- Sandi

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Working on the Drawstring Raglan!

Come Play On Our New Site -- Including FORUMS!

KD Sandi — Fri, 23 May 2008 17:23:00 GMT


	C'mon in and make yourself at home!

I am pleased to invite you to visit Knitting Daily's brand-new, updated, and ready-to-play-in website!

The first thing you will notice is that we have FORUMS! Many, many of you have been asking for these, and so now, your wish has been granted.

Other goodies on the new site include:

User profiles, friending, avatars: We've made it so much easier to get to know all you fab folk who come to play on Knitting Daily. Each of you can set up your profile page, choose an avatar (a picture which will show up next to your comments and forum posts), and tell everyone a bit about yourself. Then...you can start making friends!

Easier searches: We have tags! Want to find all the blocking articles and tips? Go to the Tag Cloud (the collection of search terms in the right side bar), and click View More to see all the tags you can search with. Click Blocking, and voila! All the blocking info shows up!

Better navigation: Now you can find the Galleries, How-To info, and all sorts of things right from the top menu. Click away!

So go ahead: Have fun exploring the new site for yourself. Your old passwords and logins should still work on the new site; if you don't remember your password, just click the Forgot Password link and we'll email you a link to change your password to something you can remember!

The comments work again (hooray!), so if you have questions or feedback, leave a comment and I'll answer some of them on Wednesday.

There will be no post on Monday because we have a holiday here. But I'll probably be playing on the forums all weekend, so come play along!

So....Welcome!

--Sandi and the entire KD Team

After The Frog Pond: Bringing Yarn Back From The Dead

KD Sandi — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 06:00:00 GMT

Cap'n Frog, reporting for duty

After a project has visited The Frog Pond, one is often left contemplating a ball of rather curly yarn. The question is: How do you bring the yarn back to life, sans curl, so you can re-use the yarn in a fabulous new project? To answer this, it is useful to think about how the curl gets there in the first place.

Yarn is spun under tension, meaning that when you buy that lovely ball of yarn, it's a bit, well, tightly wound. When you knit or crochet with unwashed yarn, those little fibers will put all their heart and soul and wound-up energy into the shapes of your stitches. Leave the stitches in place for months or even years, and add a little blocking, and the stitches have relaxed into the curly shape of your stitches.

We knitters actually like this behavior, normally. We refer to yarn that can remember what shape you bend it into as yarn that has "memory." Some types of yarn have more memory than others—wool, for example, has excellent memory; cotton, not so much. This is why wool sweaters keep their shape and cotton sweaters, again: not so much. However, once a yarn has been bent into lots of tiny knitted stitches and left to think about itself in a ziplock bag for months and months, all kinds of yarns, regardless of fiber content, Go Curly.

Have a ball, don't make a mess.

The trick to resurrecting yarn from The Land of Curl is to give the yarn new memories, and break the hold of the old ones. Fortunately, this is easier to do than it sounds. Here's how to give old yarn a new lease on life:

First and foremost: As you unravel the knitting, wind the yarn into a ball! Don't get carried away by the fun of ripping out and end up with a pile of tangled, curly yarn. (You'll thank me for this, really you will.)

After the ripping is done, wind the balled yarn into skeins. If you have a niddy-noddy or a skein-winder, those are huge helps. If you don't have either of those, you can use a friend's hands, the back of a chair, or even a thickish book. Just don't wrap too tightly—make sure you can slip the yarn off when you're done winding it around and around.

Cap'n Frog and his curly mini-skein

Tie the skeins so they won't tangle. I use scraps of white crochet cotton; some people use scraps of the yarn itself. Lay the skein flat so that it forms a circle; wrap a piece of scrap yarn around one side of the circle so it grabs all the yarn on that side, and tie a simple overhand or lark's head knot in the scrap. Tie the skein LOOSELY in at least three places—four is better, two will do, but three is pretty safe. (If you pull the scrap yarn too tightly, you'll just make more curly places in your yarn!)

Soak the skeins. Soak in enough lukewarm water to completely cover the skeins. (You can add a little bit of soap if you feel it is needed; if you do, be sure to give the yarn a couple of good cool-water rinses after it has soaked.) Soak for at least twenty minutes, long enough for the water to permeate all the fibers. Do not agitate or rub or mangle the skeins! If you have a small sink, like I do, then you may want to soak only one or two skeins at a time to minimize the chance of tangling.

Ahoy! A skein of straightened yarn!

GENTLY use a towel to pat/squeeze out excess moisture. I'm serious about the "gently" part, because you don't want to damage the fibers or risk felting woolly yarns.

Hang the skein to dry. Use a plastic hanger, and drape the skein around the neck of the hook; let it dry thoroughly out of direct sunlight. The weight of water and the yarn itself will straighten things out nicely. (Some folks even put little weights on their skeins as they hang to encourage the yarn to straighten its curls. Experiment and use your judgment with delicate yarns.)

Once the yarn is thoroughly dry (and I mean THOROUGHLY), it is ready for its next adventure!

You and your yarn deserve to enjoy your time together. You loved it enough once upon a time to spend money on it, right? If a project has lived too long in the dark of your UnFinished Objects bin, maybe it's time to call Cap'n Frog and give your old love a new chance at delighting you.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Cobwebs and witch hair and midnight clouds and ghosts of projects past...BOO! Happy Halloween!