Knitting Daily : Knitting Patterns

Custom-Fit Your Knits!

Kathleen Cubley — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:00:00 GMT


	Kate Atherley

Choosing what size to knit is something that sounds easy—what size is my bust? I'll knit that size! But that doesn't work every time, or even most times.

You have to take several things into consideration, including the style of the garment, the amount of ease you want it to have, and how your measurements will match up with the garment's finished measurements.

I know I've knitted things that turned out the wrong size, and chances are, you have, too. Avoid this heartache in the future! Join us for Kate Atherley's Knitting Designs with Custom Fit: The Basics of Sizing Knitting Patterns for Gaments webinar!

You'll learn all about garment sizing and fit and reading and understanding the sizing information presented in knitting patterns.

Some of the things Kate will cover in her webinar include:

How to choose what size garment to knit using sizing information and other pattern clues to make sure the complete garment fits as intended.
Key concepts of ease, fit, and styling to explore what type of garment and size would fit best for your personal style.
How to measure yourself properly.
Tips for easy garment alterations to make a garment flattering.
How to avoid some of the biggest knitting pitfalls that lead to ill-fitting garments.

Get the tools you need to master fitting your knits in the Knitting Designs with Custom Fit webinar. And this is only part one! Kate will be back with a follow-up webinar to show you how to incorporate waist-shaping, make more pattern modifications, and offer in-depth discussion on making custom-fitting garments.

Join Kate and me on June 27th at 1 p.m. Eastern Time for Knitting Designs with Custom Fit.

See you there!

Cheers,

Incredible I-Cord

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT


	The Loop Pullover by AnnaLena Mattison

Some things in knitting are complicated, and some things are easy. And some things are easy and look complicated. I-cord is one of those things. It's simple to work, but it adds so much to a knitted object. It's a knitting technique that all knitters should master.

I've mentioned before that one of my favorite finishing techniques is the applied I-cord. It adds such a lovely, rounded edge to collars, sleeves, and pockets. But that's just one way to use I-cord.

Designer AnnaLena Mattison wrote an article for Knitscene last spring, showing seven ways to use I-cord and it's a wonderful resource! Here's AnnaLena!

Seven Ways to Use I-Cord

I-cord is a narrow knitted tube, usually consisting of three to five stitches. This cord can be used for bag handles, hat ties, embellishments, or edgings. Famous knitter and author Elizabeth Zimmermann discovered the technique and named it idiot cord because it was so simple. Now, we just call it I-cord.

To make an I-cord is very easy. You will need yarn and two double-pointed needles in a size that works with the thickness of the yarn.


Figure 1

Basic I-Cord
Step 1: Cast on 3 stitches.

Step 2: Knit the stitches, then slide them to the other end of the needle; do not turn the work but bring the working yarn behind the stitches to the first stitch on the needle (Figure 1), pulling the yarn snug against the back of the work.

Repeat Step 2 until the I-cord is as long as needed.


	Figure 2

	Figure 3

Attached or Applied I-Cord
This form of I-cord can be used as an edging on knitted items. In this case, you'll be picking up stitches along the selvedge of a knitted item and incorporating them into the I-cord.

Step 1: Cast on 3 stitches.

Step 2: Knit the stitches, then slide them to the other end of the needle; do not turn the work but bring the working yarn behind the stitches to the first stitch on the needle.

Step 3: Knit 2 stitches, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, use left needle to pick up 1 stitch along edge of work (do not knit; Figure 2), slip this stitch kwise to right needle, work last 2 stitches together as for ssk (the slipped I-cord stitch and the picked up stitch). Slide the 3 stitches to the other end of the needle; do not turn the work but bring the working yarn behind the stitches to the first stitch on the needle. Repeat Step 3 until the edging is complete.


Figure 4

Other Uses for I-Cord
As a variation on I-cord edging, stitches can be picked up along the work that needs to be edged (Figure 3) using an additional needle. A circular needle would work best if there are many stitches to pick up. With picked up stitches on your left needle, cast on desired number of I-cord stitches onto the left needle.

Work as for applied I-cord, but work the decrease with the last I-cord stitch and one stitch from the live, picked-up stitches. If using a circular needle, slip I-cord stitches back to the left needle and repeat until all picked up stitches have been worked.

I-cord edging can also be added to I-cord edging to create a double edging (Figure 4).


	Figure 5

	The Slouch Hat

Appliqued I-Cord
Used as embellishment, I-cord edging can be attached to any knitted surface by pinning a length of I-cord to the item and arranging it into any motif you like. Using a yarn needle and yarn, sew the I-cord to the item through the back, making sure the stitches do not show on the front of the work (Figure 5).

—AnnaLena Mattison, from Knitscene Spring 2013

The appliqued I-cord is amazing! It really adds a wonderful finish and you can add any motif you want to; it's up to you. Check out how effectively this technique is used in the Slouch Hat, at right. The I-cord swirl takes this hat from cute to sophisticated.

Every time I look through an older issue of Knitscene, I'm impressed with the in-depth how-to articles, innovative knitting patterns, and so much more. Get yourself the Spring 2013 issue of Knitscene while it's on sale! You can download it, too.

And while you're shopping, check out the rest of our screamin' deals on back issues of magazines! You'll discover all sorts of things that will inspire you.

Cheers,

P.S. What's your favorite thing about I-cord? Share it with us in the comments!

Vickie Howell is the new host of KDTV!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 19:55:00 GMT

We're so excited to welcome DIY lifestyle and needle arts expert Vickie Howell as the new host and co-executive producer of Knitting Daily TV!

"I'm truly thrilled to be joining the KDTV family, and can't wait to be back in fellow stitchers' living rooms sharing my passion for yarn-crafts and the vibrant community surrounding it," says Vickie. Well-known to many in the craft industry, Vickie was the host and creative consultant of the DIY Network and HGTV's show Knitty Gritty for eight seasons. Additionally, she was the co-host of DIY's Stylelicious, Lifetime Television's web series CRAFTED, as well as several craft-based TV specials.

"We are so excited to have Vickie join us as the new face of Knitting Daily TV, said Interweave's Yarn Group Editorial Director Karin Strom. "She will continue to bring viewers the in-depth needle arts programming they expect, while adding her own fresh and accessible approach."

Working with familiar Knitting Daily TV guests as well as a new lineup of the best knitting designers, authors, and instructors, Vickie's role as host ushers in a new chapter for the venerable Interweave brand. "Her thoughtful approach to sharing the love of knitting and crochet drew us to her," said Strom, "and we're excited that she'll help us share that same love of needlework with over 140-million potential viewers across the US!"

Vickie's knit and crochet designs have been featured in hundreds of publications worldwide, she has a regular column in Interweave Crochet magazine, and she has authored numerous bestselling craft books. In addition, Vickie is International Spokesperson for Bernat Yarn, with whom she has launched three co-branded yarns: Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell, Sheep(ish) Stripes by Vickie Howell, and Cotton(ish) by Vickie Howell.

Vickie is a board member of the Central & South Texas Chapter of the Epilepsy Foundation and founder of the Purple Stitch Project to benefit children with seizure disorders. She lives in Austin, Texas, with her family.

Knitting Daily TV, currently in its eleventh season, is the longest continuously running knitting program on public television. Formerly known as Needle Arts Studio with Shay Pendray, it became Knitting Daily TV in 2010 under host Eunny Jang, and will now be named Knitting Daily TV with Vickie Howell. Guiding viewers on how to make fun yet stylish knitwear and crochet patterns and projects, Knitting Daily TV with Vickie Howell maintains the show's spirit by sharing great tips, techniques, knitalongs and more.

Eunny will be hosting one more series of KDTV, which begins airing in July, and Vickie will begin hosting starting with the shows that will air in January, 2014.

Cheers,

What are bast fibers?

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT

Summer is a time of knitting with lightweight fibers, and there are so many to choose from. I'm most familiar with cotton and linen, which are pretty easy to come by. But there are many more fibers to choose from, and they're becoming more and more common in local yarn shops.

Help yourself to a yarnsickle!
From upper right (peach yarnsicle): Bergère de France Cabourg,
Halcyon Block Island Blend, Louet Euroflax Sportweight, Habu Shosenshi, Fibra Natura Flax, and Hemp for Knitting allhemp3

Here's designer Deborah Robson to tell you more about yarns produced from bast fibers and how to get the most out of knitting with them.

Bast Fiber Yarns

Bast fibers are produced in the stems of some plants, including flax, hemp, nettle, jute, kenaf, and ramie. It's a wonder our ancestors figured out how to get the fibers out of the woody stems, a job that involves a long series of steps, including retting, scutching, and hackling: essentially, rotting, breaking apart, and pulling off the stem fragments to release the lovely, long, strong fibers hidden inside. Yet excavations from Stone Age dwellings contain evidence of the use of flax.

Contemporary textile artisans are often far less familiar with bast fibers than with wool, cotton, or synthetics. Flax lagged behind during the industrial revolution, because inventors figured out how to machine-spin cotton first. Wool is easier to work with. Synthetics have, to a great extent, shoved bast fibers to the side.

Nonetheless, with today's focus on sustainable production, the superb qualities of bast fibers are being rediscovered. They require fewer pest controls and grow in a wider range of environments than cotton, use less energy to manufacture than synthetics, and are biodegradable (although they're tough and exceptionally long-lasting). Fabrics made from bast fibers are easy to wash, nonallergenic, and comfortable to wear because they quickly absorb and release moisture.

Knitters are most likely to encounter—and be intimidated by—flax and hemp. These fibers don't have the elasticity you expect from wools and acrylics. When you first work with bast fibers, they don't flow gently across your needles, your fabric feels stiff, and your stitches look irregular. These are all temporary or preventable problems. If you adjust your techniques and both knit and wash swatches, you'll soon find yourself in a delightful new realm of knitting.

Bast fibers are less pliable, at least initially, than other fibers. With use and washing, they soften up. However, on the needles they can be slippery, and the stitches of a pure bast yarn won't flex much. Your needle choice can make a huge difference in how well you like a bast-fiber yarn. Select needles that aren't too slippery but have well-shaped and narrow points. Pure bast yarns also won't want to stay neatly wound into balls. Using a yarn caddy or a resealable bag to contain the ball can be extremely helpful.

Pure bast yarns made from long fibers (called line) will be so strong that you'll need to cut, instead of break, the strands. If you add a new ball by simply overlapping ends, the join may separate. Secure the join with a small, tight knot at a selvedge or at another near-invisible location.

Washing will both soften the fabric and even out your stitches. When care instructions suggest handwashing and drying flat, I also test a swatch with full machine processing. I love the wash-and- wear functionality I discover. Pure bast fabrics will tend to get narrower and longer when they're washed; be sure to do your planning and gauge calculations on a washed-and-dried swatch!

—Deborah Robson, from Interweave Knits, Summer 2011

It's a lovely assortment of yarns, isn't it? Please note Deborah's advice about washing and drying your swatch to see how it'll really end up in your finished object. You'll be amazed at the before and after! Last summer I knitted a T-shirt from a flax-blend; I machine washed and dried it and the fabric turned out so soft and flowing.

Interweave Knits includes a yarn review in each issue, so if you enjoy this sort of information about our favorite "tool," subscribe today!

Cheers,

P.S. Have you knit with a bast yarn? Leave a comment below and share your experience with us!

The Pan-Am Jacket: You Can Do It!

Kathleen Cubley — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:00:00 GMT

Last fall, several intrepid knitters got together for a Knitting Daily Knit-Along and made Ashley Rao's Pan-Am Jacket. This jacket is a wonderful challenge for the courageous knitter. And it's the perfect project for a knit-along! Everyone learned so much from each other, and the community that was established was so fun to be a part of.

I must confess, though, that I didn't finish my Pan-Am; I never even started it. Shame on me! I've knit several of our knit-along projects, but I just couldn't fit this one in.

It'll stay on my list, though, because it's so beautiful, and flattering, too! It incorporates so many knitting techniques that you'll improve your knitting skills in the process of knitting, too. Here's a montage of finished objects:

They're all beautiful, and I love the color variety. It's so much fun to see what colors people choose, and I really didn't expect to see a two-color version! It wouldn't occur to me to knit this sweater in two colors, but I think it turned out great!

You can't see it in these photos, but some people knit the facing of the border and sleeves in a different color, which adds a secret detail just for the knitter. Neat-o.

In the knit-along forum there are a bunch of tips that are super helpful, but one that came up a lot concerned the sleeves and the Roman Ribs' tendency to bell out a bit.

Several knitters solved this by going down one or two needle sizes and did the cuff facing in 1x1 ribbing. This technique pulls the sleeves in a bit and manages the belling problem.

As I mentioned above, the Pan-Am Jacket is a challenging pattern—it's not for the beginning knitter. But I really encourage intermediate and even advanced-beginners to knit this jacket. If you don't challenge yourself, you won't advance, and the finished Pan-Am is so lovely, as you can see from the photos above.

So this is one of those knitting trifectas: interesting to knit, beautiful finished project, versatile wardrobe-builder. I love it.

And even though our knit-along is over, the forum will live forever on the web and you can glean so much knowledge from the knitters who went before you. So download your Pan-Am Jacket pattern today, read through the knit-along forum, and knit a fabulous jacket for yourself!

Cheers,

P.S. Have you knit the Pan-Am Jacket? Share your experience with us in the comments.

Project Diary: The Burdock Cardigan

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 10 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT

The Burdock Cardigan from November Knits is really a stunner. It has everything that makes a sweater a classic: an interesting and attractive stitch pattern, thoughtful design details such as a finished hem, and a figure-flattering silhouette. And cardigan knitting patterns are so versatile, it's always a good idea to add one to your wardrobe.


Karen's beautiful Burdock Cardigan

Back view of Karen's Burdock

My friend Karen knit the Burdock, and she's here to share her experience.

Karen's Burdock Cardigan

My measurements: Bust: 39 inches; Waist: 35 inches; Height: 5 ft. 4 in. I usually wear a size 10/12 blouse or a medium in a T-shirt.

When I flipped through my Winter 2012 issue of Interweave Knits and saw Maura Kirk's Burdock Cardigan from the book November Knits, I knew I had to make it.

I liked the finished bottom edge, which I think makes the sweater look very polished (but not too dressy-it would still look great with jeans). I love to make sweaters that I can wear on an everyday basis. I also thought that the berry pattern stitch was intriguing, a nice change from stockinette, but not too complicated.

The first thing I had to decide was what yarn to use. I wanted to go with the recommended Mountain Colors Mountain Goat, but choosing the color was difficult; there were so many beautiful colors I thought would look great in the sweater! I wound up choosing Moose Creek, which is a wonderful mix of dark browns with soft hints of plum, olive, and a dark mallard blue.

Then I had to decide what size to make. I chose the 37½, because even though I always swatch to get gauge, my knitting tends to loosen as the project progresses. I also think that a sweater fits better with a small bit of negative ease. I was able to obtain gauge with US #6 needles. It is not unusual for me to go down one to two needle sizes from what is recommended, as I tend to be a loose knitter.

I decided to make the sleeves slightly longer, more of a bracelet length rather than a three-quarter sleeve length. So I knit the sleeves 16½ inches to the underarms. I also decided to lengthen the sweater by two inches, because I think a longer look is more flattering on me than a cropped look. I added some minor waist shaping by going down a needle size for about 3½ inches at my waist.

Then I cast on, and the knitting began! I started with a sleeve, as I normally make this my large second swatch. I realized very quickly that these sleeves seemed too big on the lower part of my arm. In reviewing the pattern I saw there were no increases in the arms (which would be tricky with the pattern stitch). I restarted with #5 needles, which I used until approximately my elbow, and then switched back to the #6 needles. This worked well for me, and you really can't see the change in the stitch size with the different size needles, which I was worried about.

Because I was using a hand-dyed yarn, I alternated skeins every row in the sleeves and every other row in the body, hoping this would blend in any color differences in the skeins, as well as decreasing the risk of pooling. As I was knitting, I grew to appreciate the pattern stitch even more. The yarn has a fairly short color change, and the yarn overs blended the color changes stunningly. Instead of stripes of yarn colors (which you see in stockinette) each "berry" created by the yarn over in the pattern is a different color, which removed the striping effect and became subtle bursts of beautiful colors.

The pattern was very enjoyable to knit, easily memorized, and after working a few rows it was fairly mindless knitting, moving the project along quite quickly. The sleeves were a little fiddly with DPNs because the way the stitch pattern works, you have to move the stitches on the needles every other row. But I soon got in the rhythm of this, too.


	Sleeve detail

When combining the arms with the body, and working the raglan decreases, I had to focus a little more on how the designer wanted this accomplished. It's different than a usual raglan decrease in order to keep the stitch pattern nice. I started assuming how the decreases would go, but quickly had to back up and read the pattern more carefully. When I slowed down and followed the pattern, all proceeded without incident.

I didn't do the collar extensions as written. I only did one decrease rather than decreasing every other row, as there would be no collar left when you reached the middle back. Later, when I got to the finishing, I realized they probably didn't want any decreases at all. I was a little nervous about doing the Kitchener stitch for the collar as that stitch and I tend not to get along very well, but it actually wound up working okay. Finishing was very straight forward and I do love how neat and clean the front edges are.

If I were to knit this sweater over again, I would make the raglan length a little longer. The Burdock decreases 12 stitches every other row rather than the usual 8, so the raglan is a little short and a smidge tight under the arms as I wear it. I would have to think carefully about how to accomplish this, because the decreases as written keep the pattern stitch nice, without holes next to the raglan line.

I am very excited about this sweater, and look forward to adding it to my autumn and winter wardrobe. I think the Burdock will look great with jeans and a T-shirt, but it is polished enough that it could easily go with dress pants or a skirt and blouse. Right now, however, it's summer where I live. I'm tired of winter, and I'm ready to put away my wool sweaters!

—Karen Wohlen

The Burdock is a beautiful sweater that is going to become a staple in Karen's wardrobe. Do you want to knit the Burdock? You're in luck because November Knits is on sale; get your copy today and cast-on the Burdock Cardigan!

Cheers,

Learn a New Stitch Pattern!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 07 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT

We have a new free eBook: Techniques for Knitting Stitch Patterns: A Guide to Knitting Stitches from Knitting Daily!



The Dot Stitch, Zigzag Eyelets, and the Lattice Pattern: Just three of the knitting stitch patterns you'll find in Techniques for Knitting Stitch Patterns: A Guide to Knitting Stitches from Knitting Daily

There's a saying that all knitting is made up of just two stitches: the knit stitch and the purl stitch. That's true . . . sort of.

Many of my favorite knitted items are made up of different stitch patterns, patterns that use knits, purls, yarn overs, increases, decreases, cable stitches and traveling stitches.

These stitches can be combined to make all kinds of different designs, from easy knit and purl stitch patterns to the most complicated lace stitches.

I've gathered some of my favorite stitch patterns here for you in our new free eBook, Techniques for Knitting Stitch Patterns: A Guide to Knitting Stitches from Knitting Daily!

Knit & Purl shows you four stitch patterns using just the knit and purl stitches. The variety of knitting stitch patterns you can make with these two stitches is amazing!

Lace & Eyelets features five beautiful knitting stitch patterns that you'll love. From the simplest eyelet stitch to the more complicated fern lace knitting stitch, there's something for everyone here.

Cables & Arans is made up of four amazing cable stitch patterns. You'll love the twisting, turning stitches in this section, not to mention the amazing texture you'll get with these cable stitches!

You can use these stitch patterns on scarves, shawls, dishcloths, mittens, and wherever else you need a beautiful pattern.

Download Techniques for Knitting Stitch Patterns: A Guide to Knitting Stitches from Knitting Daily, today and get started knitting fabulous stitch patterns!

Cheers,

Snap to It!

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 05 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT


	Darling fabric-covered snaps!

I'm almost done with the second sleeve of a cardigan, and I have snaps in mind for the closure. Wouldn't you know it, the Spring 2012 issue of knit.wear magazine featured an inspiring article about covering snaps with fabric before sewing them on. It's such a neat idea, and I love the little pop of color that will greet me when I'm taking off or putting on the sweater. And when I wear the cardigan open, those fabric colors will be so much cuter than an ugly metal snap.

Covering Snaps with Fabric

Fabric-covered metal snaps can refine the look of any piece that would normally use buttons and buttonholes. To use snaps instead of buttons, work any bands or other edge treatments as directed, omitting buttonholes. Covered snap closures will be hidden when a garment is closed and provide a flash of subtle interest when a garment hangs open.


Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

STEP 1 Choose a snap color and weight appropriate for your knitted fabric. Large snaps will work better with bulky knits, while a finer-gauge, delicate knit fabric may only be able to support a smaller and lighter snap. Metal snaps come in a variety of sizes and colors and are available at any fabric store that sells sewing notions. You will also need lightweight fusible interfacing and appropriate fabric scraps for covering the snaps. (Interfacing is a specialty fabric intended to provide stability and support to fashion fabrics. Here, it is used to add strength to the fabric and prevent fraying at the cut edges. Use a lightweight nonwoven or knit fusible interfacing to add strength without bulk.)

STEP 2 Make your patterns. Trace around the edge of the snap on a piece of paper and then add 1⁄8" all around to make the interfacing pattern. Draw a separate second circle, about twice the diameter of the snap, to make the fabric pattern. Creating patterns isn't strictly necessary but will make the process smoother when making several covered snaps at the same time.

STEP 3 Cut and prepare fabric and interfacing. Trace around your paper patterns onto your fabric and interfacing and cut out with sharp fabric shears. For one snap pair, you will need two circles each of fabric and interfacing. Following the manufacturer's directions, fuse the interfacing to the center of the wrong side of each fabric circle.


	Step 4

	Step 5

STEP 4 Using small, sharp scissors, cut a very small hole in the center of each interfaced fabric circle. The resulting opening should be slightly smaller than the snap peg to ensure a snug fit.

STEP 5 Cover the snap. Using thread that matches the fabric, sew a running stitch around the edge of the fabric circle. Place the snap halves on the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the holes in the fabric with the hole in the female side of the snap and with the peg on the male side. Pull the thread to gather the fabric, securing the snap within, and secure with several small backstitches.

STEP 6 Finish your garment. Sew the snap halves to your garment with neat, even overcast stitches that pass through the holes in the snap and do not show on the right side of the knitting. Snaps can match the knitted garment, adding an elegant and minimal closure, or they can contrast, making a quirky style statement. Try a bold solid to highlight the occasional colored fleck in a tweed. Or try small plaids or tiny prints for a surprise element that cheers up an otherwise simple design.

—Kathy Augustine, from knit.wear, Spring 2012

I can't wait to add fabric-covered snaps to my sweater! I'll post a photo on our Facebook page when I'm done. This is such a fun idea. Even if you're a beginning knitter, you can add these snaps and pump up the volume on the simplest cardigan sweater!

Knit.wear magazine is full of these types of interesting ideas for making your knits shine, as well as fabulous patterns from amazing designers. We've put all of the digital issues together for you in a knit.wear kit. Get yours today!

Cheers,

P.S. Have you used snaps on your knitwear? Share your tips in the comments!

Oops! Now what?

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 03 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT

Being able to fix your mistakes is crucial to advancing beyond beginning knitting. In fact, after a beginning knitting class, I think an "Oops" class is the next step. This is where you'll learn to fix the most common mistakes that beginner knitters (all knitters, in fact!) make a lot.

In case you don't have access to an Oops class, though—I know many of you don't—I'll show you my two best fix-it techniques. A mini-class, if you will!

The first thing to know is how to unknit, or "tink" (which is "knit" spelled backward). Knowing how to unknit allows you to go backwards to fix a mistake so that you don't have to take your knitting off the needles. I use this technique ALL THE TIME. I mean it; I probably do a little unknitting every time I knit, which is every day, so . . .

Here's a video I made a few years ago that shows my way of unknitting, which is a little different from other people's method because I unknit from right to left instead of from left to right. Check it out:

(Please visit the site to view this media)

Going from right to left is what allows me to get the tight tension on the unknitted yarn. I can get going pretty fast with this technique!

Unpurling: I use the exact same method to unpurl. With the purl side facing and the working yarn on the left, I put the needle into the purl in the row below, pull the yarn to the right to undo the stitch, and voilà!

Laddering Down to Fix a Mistake

This is a crucial skill to know, too, one that you can use to pick up a dropped stitched far below the row you're working on. Here's how do ladder down to fix a stitch, according to the fabulous book Knit Fix, by Lisa Kartus. (It's part of our amazing Beginner Knitting Kit!)


A Vertical Fix for Stitch Mistakes
While unknitting corrects mistakes horizontally, sometimes it's more efficient to drop down vertically through multiple rows to fix a single dropped or twisted stitch, or even to change a knit stitch into a purl and vice versa.


Figure 1	Figure 2	Figure 3

Trace along the column from the dropped stitch up to your needle. Knit or unknit to the stitch to the right of this stitch. Take the next stitch off of the needle and pull on either side of it to undo the column of stitches down to the location of the dropped stitch (or twisted stitch, etc.).	To rescue a knit stitch, push the crochet hook through the front of the hanging stitch. Then pick up the first ladder (the one farthest down from the knitting needle. Position the ladder between the tip of the crochet hook and the hanging stitch.	Pull the ladder through the stitch, back to front, and drop the rescued stitch off the end of the hook. Continue this maneuver until you've scooped every ladder through the loop below it, then transfer the stitch to the left needle. All fixed!

Pretty great technique, right? I use this one a bunch, too. You really do need a crochet hook in your notions bag so that you have it on hand to fix dropped stitches. I keep a size D and a size G in my knitting bag. The D works on smaller-gauge projects and the G works on everything from worsted-weight yarn on up to bulky. You can also add a J to your bag if you work on bulky and super-bulky yarn a lot; the G is a little small for super-bulky yarn.

Mastering these techniques will help you for years to come! There are lots more fix-it techniques to learn, so get our Beginner Knitting Kit for beginning knitters, which includes Knit-Fix, two more books, and four videos!

Cheers,

P.S. Did you learn a knit-saving tip when you were a beginner? Share it with us below in the comments!

Weave in Some Color

Kathleen Cubley — Thu, 30 May 2013 12:00:00 GMT

I don't know about you, but color is one of the most inspiring things to me. Whether it's knitting, clothes, home decor, gardening, or just about anything, really, color is a big part of the choices I make.


A lovely woven swatch. I really like the blue/red/yellow combo. This would be perfect for place mats because my dining room chairs are blue!

I find that my love of some colors waxes and wanes, too. I didn't used to be a big fan of blue, but now I love it in almost all forms. Especially teals and peacock blues. Orange is a big favorite, too. I was at Nordstrom yesterday and there were so many different shoe options in orange (or as the salesperson called it, "tangerine").

As fiber artists, we are blessed with thousands of different color options in the yarn we use. Handwoven editor Anita Osterhaug writes about color in a wonderful editor's letter in the May/June 2013 issue.

Color is at the heart of what we weave. Color is science, and it is art. It depends on myriad factors: the qualities of light, the chemistry of materials, the textures of yarn and fabric surfaces, the adjacent colors, and the eye of the beholder. Color theory has fixed rules, and yet it is subjective and deeply personal.

Colors evoke memories of holidays, seasons, people, and places. Studies have shown that colors in our environment can affect our moods, and the colors we choose to wear can telegraph our moods to others.

In weaving, our choice of colors can make an otherwise simple project spectacular or it can disappoint, leaving the weaver feeling that costly materials and hours of work were wasted. (This is an especially high risk if you are an off-road weaver like me—one who loves a puzzle and takes project instructions as mere guidelines. Writer Garrison Keillor once said that intelligence is like 4-wheel drive: it just gets you stuck in more interesting places.)

Over my years of fiber arts, I've read loads of good books and taken plenty of excellent classes on color theory, fiber blending, dyeing, etc., but the biggest thing I've learned about color selection is that there is never one right answer.

—Anita Osterhaug, Handwoven, May/June 2013

Weaving is a craft I aspire to learn. I love the idea of using yarn from my stash to create scarves, bookmarks, placemats, towels, and so on. I'm thinking about the colors I'll use as I write this. The options are limitless! I've talked about taking weaving classes before, and I haven't yet, but I will! There's a shop here in Spokane that offers weaving classes and sells beginner looms.

It looks like so much fun! And I'll need a subscription to Handwoven, too. If you want to try weaving, check out Handwoven today and get inspired!

Cheers,

P.S. Let's do a favorite color roll-call! Leave a comment and tell us your favorite color and the color of your latest finished project.

Knitting for Dad

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 29 May 2013 12:00:00 GMT

I think I knit my dad five hats in the last two years, all from the same pattern. He likes super bulky, tightly knit, stockinette hats with a two-inch ribbed brim. And he likes them longer than normal so they cover his ears. He wears them out! Or he accidentally felts them . . . But they're so quick to knit that I can just whip up a new one in an evening.

For Father's Day, I think I'll knit him three of them, which should be at least one winter's supply!

Are you knitting for your dad for Father's Day? If so, it's time to get started. Knitting for men can be a bit of a challenge. Are they pickier than the gals, or is it just me? Anyway, here are some suggestions for things he'll (probably) like:


		Fitz Fingerless Mitts By Catherine Shields These mitts are attractive, but more importantly for Dad, useful. The Fitz Mitts are knit from a sturdy wool yarn so they look great and last forever, whether Dad is working outdoors or taking the dog for a walk.

		The Frost Hat By Ashley Rao Everyone loves a little surprise! Knit this hat and use Dad's favorite color for the contrasting facing. The all-over cable pattern is fun to knit and the double-layer brim will keep Dad's ears toasty-warm.
Three for the Road by The Knits Staff Are you feeling ambitious? If so, knit Dad a set of winter accessories for Father's Day! This pattern includes three projects: a roll-brim hat, a pair of fingerless mitts, and a lovely cabled scarf. You can whip out the hat and mitts in a couple of evenings; the scarf will take an average knitter two to three weeks of evening knitting, but since Father's Day is just over three weeks away, you've got time. Plus Three for the Road is on sale for only a buck, so get it while you can!
Whitman Cap By Kristen TenDyke Does your dad have a funky style? Indulge him with this earflap hat! Begin with the earflaps and work your way through Fair Isle snowflakes. Choose Dad's favorite colors and this is sure to be a winner.

The Whitman Cap is so cool. I wonder if I could push my dad a little out of his comfort zone and introduce a little funky-cool into his wardrobe. An accessory is the perfect way to try something new style-wise, so maybe I'll include the Whitman in Dad's hat package. Who knows? He might love it.

Download one of these patterns for your Dad, and cast on. He'll love that you made something for him, for sure. And if none of these designs say "That's my dad!" to you, we have more to choose from!

Cheers,

P.S. Do you have a go-to pattern for your dad? Tell us about it in the comments!

Project Diary: The Manteo Cardigan

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 27 May 2013 12:00:00 GMT

From time to time, I ask people to knit projects from an Interweave magazine or book. I love seeing people make projects their own, and it's neat to see how real knitters make modifications to knitting patterns for women so that they get a finished project that they love and one that fits them nicely.


Kathy O'Neill in her Manteo Cardigan

My friend Kathy knitted the Manteo Cardigan, which originally appeared in Interweave Knits Spring 2012. Here's her story:

The Manteo Cardigan by Lisa Hoffman, knitted by Kathy O'Neill
Kathy usually wears a size 12 top; she's 5' 4" tall.

Bust: 38¾"
Waist: 33"
Hips: 40"
Size knitted: 39½-inch bust
Yarn and Needles: Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, 8 balls, size U.S. 6 needles.

It was a combination of the cute design and working with cashmere yarn that drew me to this project. However, by the time I was ready to knit the project, the yarn the designer used, Araucania Truaco, had been discontinued.

Kathleen had me look for alternatives, so I ended up choosing Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino. It's not 100 percent cashmere, but it is really soft and I love my raspberry color.

Using the Baby Cashmerino had the huge advantage of allowing me to get proper gauge without having to carry two strands of yarn, as instructed for the Truaco. So much simpler to work with and it's machine washable, too!

I made the 39½-bust and I got gauge with a size 6 needle. Normally, this yarn calls for a size 4 needle, but I'm a compulsively snug knitter so the size 6 loosened me up to get the perfect gauge. The fabric weight is ideal; it has a bit of give to it and will be very comfortable to wear.

I didn't run into any issues with interpreting the pattern.

Sloped Bind-Off

This technique is used for shaping the armholes,
shoulders and sleeve caps,
and affects only the first stitch
to be bound off. On the row before the BO, do not work
the last st. Turn the work— unworked st is now on right needle. To BO the first st, sl 1
st pwise, then pass the unworked st of the previous
row over the slipped st.
BO the rest of the stitches
as usual.

I was averse to doing the sloped bind-off [description at right] on the sleeve because it seemed like a tedious and unnecessary detail. However, for the sake of this gallery I decided to give it a go on my second sleeve. Now I've been educated on the how and why of it! The sloped bind-off made a much nicer shoulder seam to stitch together and didn't have the washboard edge on it like the sleeve without it. It's really not very difficult to accomplish; I do have to keep myself from wanting to cut corners at times.

The instructions didn't quite clarify if it was the same whether you were on a knit side decreasing or a purl side decreasing so I did the slip as if to knit on the knit side and slip as if to purl on the purl side. Keep an open mind about these new techniques that Interweave likes to throw at us!


The Manteo Cardigan looks cute over a spring dress, too.

I haven't put the buttons on as I'm writing this! I have to see how it will look double breasted on me; I might not have enough overlap, if you can relate to that issue.

I should be able to do anything I'd like with the buttons (including leaving them off!). With the eyelet stitch pattern, though, there are built-in buttonholes everywhere!

—Kathy O'Neill

Kathy's Manteo looks great on her, don't you think? As you can see in the photo, she decided to place a single button instead of making the sweater double-breasted. It looks really nice that way, and it's the perfect sweater to wear this time of year. I know Kathy will wear her sweater a lot.

You can knit the Manteo, too. Just download the Manteo Cardigan pattern today and get started!

Cheers,

P.S. Have you knit the Manteo or another spring sweater? Leave a comment and tell us about it!

Win a Year of Video Instruction from Craft Daily!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 24 May 2013 16:00:00 GMT

We're having a fabulous contest! You can win a year's subscription to our new site: Craft Daily. Here are the details:

Three winners will win an annual subscription to CraftDaily.com.
Each prize is worth $200.
If you've already signed up an annual subscription to CraftDaily.com, you could win a second year for free.

What a great prize! Craft Daily is really neat; I wrote about it here a couple of weeks ago when it debuted, and it's really taking off. And for good reason, there are so many knitting techniques to learn, and if you're a visual learner like I am, Craft Daily is definitely for you.

Enter now, and good luck!

Cheers,

Learn How to Knit Socks!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 24 May 2013 12:00:00 GMT

Knitting socks can seem really difficult at first. There are hundreds (maybe thousands?) of sock knitting patterns out there! How do you choose? Top down or toe up? Circular needles or double pointed needles? Patterned socks or plain? Striped, solid, or variegated yarn?


The anatomy of a knitted sock

If you're a beginning sock knitter, you start at the beginning, of course! In How to Knit Socks: Free Sock Patterns and Instructions to Learn How to Knit a Sock, we'll go through each of these parts as we knit a sock together. You'll learn all kinds of techniques, such as how to turn a heel and how to pick up stitches; in short, you'll learn how to knit a sock!

You'll learn the step-by-step how to make hand knit socks. You'll love our easy-to-knit free sock pattern, which is a quick, large-gauge sock knitting pattern.

First you'll discover the anatomy of a sock, from the cuff to the toe. Then, we'll get into sock knitting with explanations for each step in knitting socks.You'll start with the cuff and end with the toe, with detailed instructions about how to complete each step in between.

There's even a free sock pattern for toe-up socks, plus a tutorial on knitting socks from the toe-up!

Sock knitting master Ann Budd will take you through knitting toe-up socks, and her pattern, On Your Toes Socks, is included here, too.

These instructions to learn how to knit socks will get you on your way to knitting socks from the top down and from the toe up. You'll learn all about sock knitting and you'll love knitting socks for yourself and your loved ones.

Get your free eBook, How to Knit Socks: Free Sock Patterns and Instructions to Learn How to Knit a Sock, today!

Sock knitting is lots of fun; once you get started, you'll find it hard to stop. So get ready, here we go!

Cheers,

Never Enough Accessories!

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 22 May 2013 12:00:00 GMT


	Vaudeville Shawl by Grace Akhrem

	Amodda Socks by Rachel Coopey

As knitters, we know that accessories are the icing on the cake.

We might enjoy knitting sweaters in the cooler months of the year, but most of us have little goodies on our needles all year round. I know I do! In fact, I just finished a pair of Turkish Bed Socks, which are little footies that are perfect for wearing with Danskos, my favorite footwear. The instep starts lower on the top of the foot in this pattern, so the socks don't poke out of the shoes very much, if at all.

I decided I'm going to knit several pairs of these this summer so I have a footie wardrobe when shoe-weather starts next fall.

Are you ready to start on some summer knitting? As luck would have it, the new issue of Knitscene Accessories is here, so you can fill your queue with fun, fab accessory knitting for the summer, too!


So Faux Cowl by Amy Keeler

Riga Bonnet by Allyson Dykhuizen


Bow and Arrow Hat by Andrea Babb

Here are editors Lisa Shroyer and Amy Palmer to introduce the issue.

In this, the second issue of Knitscene Accessories, designer Caitlin ffrench asks the question: How many knitted things is too many to wear at once? I'd like to expand on that question with this one: How many knitted things is too many?

This is a not a question any knitter should try to answer.

As functional as hats and mitts and scarves are, we don't make them because we need them. We make them because we love making them. We love the yarn, the process, the cable charts, the pastime thrown in the bottom of a reusable grocery bag as we move from A to B on the subway.

Someone asked me recently, how can you keep putting out more patterns? Hasn't everything been done? And the answer, in a sense, is yes. Everything has been done.

As editors of a knitting magazine, though, it is our job to find the people who are doing old things in new ways, or old things in old ways that are newly exciting.

Take Allyson Dykhuizen's bonnet-styled earflap hat with its Latvian braids. Is this a traditional knit? Is it contemporary? Is it childish or funky or hip or beautiful? You decide. One thing's sure—it's interesting. It looks great with locks of hair waving out from under it. And it's really fun to knit.

Or take Amy Keefer's leopard-print cowl. It uses stranded colorwork, an old technique, and a kitschy faux animal pattern to make something fetching and coyly modern.

That's our job here. We find the designers, we choose the projects, we plan the photography that presents those projects at their best and adds stylistic context to them.

You take it from here. You can knit all thirty-three projects, and guess what? That still wouldn't be too many! Knit your heart out.

—Lisa and Amy, from Knitscene Accessories, 2013

Order your copy of Knitscene Accessories today, or download it right now! And get knittin'!

Cheers,

P.S. Are you an avid accessory-knitter? Leave a comment and tell us what your favorite little knit is!