Knitting Daily : Knitting Stitches, Sock Knitting

Sensational Sock Knitting

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:00:00 GMT

I've been a really lame sock knitter in the last few months. There are two socks on the needles, from two different sock knitting patterns, and I didn't really have any plans to pick either of those socks up in the near future.


	Provenance Socks by Heatherly Walker: Colorful scrolling patterns inspired by centuries-old French embroidery

But then I got an email that contained the link to the Summer 2013 issue of Sockupied. Talk about motivating me to get back to sock knitting!

Here's Sockupied Editor Anne Merrow to tell you more:

Genius, Stitch by Stitch

When I was learning to knit, friends told me that there were only two stitches, so it couldn't be that difficult. But as any knitter knows, there are enough possible maneuvers of those two little stitches to keep us fascinated for a lifetime.


Cataphyll by Hunter Hammersen: Lacy leaves branch out across fine ribbing and stockinette panels

It's the small but clever innovations—adding a second yarn, wrapping in another direction—that make knitting so intriguing. Sometimes even a small change can create a whole new result.

In this issue, Heatherly Walker's socks feature an ingenious two-color cuff, which you can learn with step-by-step directions, illustrations, and video. Kate Atherley finds at least five ways of knitting socks two at once.

This issue's featured designer, Hunter Hammersen, draws on her knowledge of science with designs inspired by butterfly and botanical drawings. In this issue we get a sneak peek at her brand new book, The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet, Volume II. And each of our five brand-new designs features its own stroke of knitting brilliance.

On the miniature and quirky canvas of socks, the concentration of creativity is a constant marvel. I can't wait to see what genius comes next from the needles of sock knitters.

—Anne Merrow, from Sockupied Summer 2013

Beautiful self-striping sock yarn

Check out a really neat visual from Sockupied, at right. I love self-striping sock yarns—and the image of them flowing off of paintbrushes is great! The stitch pattern shown is a chevron pattern; here's how you do it:

Simple Chevron
Multiple of 9 sts
Round 1 (RS) *K2tog, k1, [k1fb] 2 times, k2, ssk; repeat from * to end.
Round 2 Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

Download Sockupied Summer 2013 now and start knitting sensational socks!

Cheers,

P.S. How many socks do you have on the needles? Leave a comment and share your shame (if you're not ashamed, all the better!).

Sock Knitting: Shadow Wrap Short-Rows

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 13:00:00 GMT


Deuce, by Alice Yu, from Sockupied Spring 2013

There seem to be an endless number of ways to knit socks, and, as Martha says, that's a good thing! We can choose our favorites and go from there. But there's always more to learn, and leave it to sock knitting expert and Soctopus Yarn company founder Alice Yu to come up with a fantastic new way to work short-rows: shadow wraps.

Her sock pattern, Duece, shown at left and available in the new issue of Sockupied, is a fabulous pattern that uses the shadow-wrap technique. Isn't that lattice stitch great? And the shadow-wrapped wedge heel looks like it would provide a really comfy fit.

Here's how to work the shadow wrap short-rows. Please note that the directions written here for shadow wraps aren't written for any specific sock or any specific stitch count; you can use whichever pattern you want to use, just follow the directions below.

SHADOW WRAPS
Alice Yu's shadow-wrap method uses the row below the needle to prepare for a gapless heel. Use it for a wedge heel or an hourglass heel.

Twin stitch (knit) (TWK):
With right needle, knit into the purl bump of stitch directly below stitch on left needle (Figs. 1, 2). Slip stitch from right needle to left needle without twisting it (Fig. 3)—2 stitches from 1 stitch. Turn work.

Twin stitch (purl) (TWP):
With yarn in from (wyf), slip 1 stitch purlwise to right needle, then insert left needle from back to front into purl bump of stitch below stitch on right needle and purl this stitch (Fig. 4 + 5)—2 stitches from 1 stitch. Slip both stitches of twin stitch from right needle to left needle without twisting. (Fig. 6). Turn work.

Narrowing Section
*Short-row 1 (RS): Knit to last stitch, TWK.
Short-row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to last stitch, TWP.
Short-row 3: Knit to last st before twin stitch, TWK.
Short-row 4: Purl to last st before twin stitch, TWP.
Repeat Short-rows 3 and 4 until the desired number of stitches remain between stitches.

The wedge heel, worked with shadow wrapped short-rows

Widening Section, Wedge Heel Option
Round 1 (RS): Knit to end of heel, working twin stitches as 1 stitch when you come to them, work instep in pattern.
Round 2: Knit to end of round, working remaining twin stitches as 1 stitch when you come to them and working instep in pattern.
Repeat from * 1 or 2 more times to fit heel.

To learn how to work the hourglass heel with shadow wraps, get your issue of Sockupied today!

Cheers,

P.S. What's your favorite way to knit socks? Leave a comment and let us know!

Sock Weather

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 02 Nov 2012 12:00:00 GMT

A note from Kathleen: It's time to snuggle into your couch and tuck into some sock knitting. Here's Sockupied Editor Anne Merrow to give you some inspiration!


Pumpion Socks by Julie Suchomel

Turnalar Socks By Leslie Comstock

Sock-Knitting Season

The last week has brought weather from coast to coast in the United States—snow in the West, hurricanes in the East. Whether you're curled up in front of a fireplace or seeking higher ground, there's nothing like being forced indoors to make knitting the activity of choice.

And when you're faced with high snowdrifts, high tides, or high winds, knitted socks will please your hands and feet. The perfect portable project, socks take a small amount of yarn. When you're finished, you'll be glad that wool insulates even when wet and can hold a lot of water before it feels wet on your feet.

The Fall 2012 issue of Sockupied has patterns that keep your fingers flying. The Scandent Socks, Pumpion Socks, and Semaphore Socks all have addictive stitch patterns that are easy to memorize. For a little more of a challenge, the clever Emerging Cable Socks, richly patterned Turnalar Socks, and textured Chardonnay Socks have charted motifs that yield spectacular results.

Boss Your Socks Around
When we were first dreaming up Sockupied, we knew we wanted it to be clever. Much as I love the designs in Sockupied, I really love the idea that you can make socks that are just right for you.

This issue is full of smart ideas. Franklin Habit revived a technique called garter-stitch Jacquard, a colorful way of adding texture to a pattern-and then he developed a method for working it in the round. Standard Jacquard designs can be worked in the garter-stitch method, and plain old garter stitch can get a jolt of color from a Fair Isle pattern


	Chardonnay Socks by Chrissy Gardiner

Candace Eisner Strick decided she wasn't crazy about short-rows, so she created her own sock construction: she works the heels and toes flat! The resulting footwear can be completely reversible, and she even developed a new provisional cast-on based on the Channel Island Cast-on. (This has become my favorite cast-on...) You can substitute Candace's method for short-rows in other designs to make socks your own way.

Kate Atherley provides a comprehensive run-down of the top-down toe, from the standard wedge toe to a design for comfy left and right socks. When a few little piggies don't like the way a top-down sock toe fits, you can customize the pattern with Kate's suggestions.

Download Sockupied Fall 2012 today for intriguing designs, clever techniques, and fun features.

P.S. What's your favorite thing about knitting socks? Leave a comment below and let us know!

Fancy a Sock Knit-Along?

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 28 Sep 2012 12:00:00 GMT

It's time for a new knit-along! I thought we'd do something a little different this time, so how about a sock knit-along?

Here are four sock knitting patterns to choose from (click on the links for more information about the patterns); here they are:


		Wyeast Socks by Chrissy Gardiner Two different cable patterns on the front and back of these socks make a great pattern for a man or woman. These are easy for you to convert from top-down to toe-up because the short-row heel and cable patterns are symmetrical. Make the cable pattern from toe to cuff as shown, or knit a stockinette foot for an easier fit in shoes.

		Aran Isle Slippers by Jennifer Lang The Aran Isle Slippers by Jennifer Lang make big use of a small canvas: A cable panel adorned upper, seed-stitch surround, and stockinette-stitch sole add up to slippers to live in all winter.

		Caret + Chevron Socks by Chrissy Gardiner Chrissy designed these socks to work either top-down or toe-up. The simple lace pattern looks great worked in either direction. These versatile socks would look great in a solid sock yarn or a lightly variegated yarn, as shown at left.

		Border Socks by Mary Jane Mucklestone These are perfect for the guys in your life. With fair isle colorwork and a contrasting toe, the color options are endless (although I think I'd knit them exactly as shown). Wide wale ribbing hugs the ankle, and looks great too. The Border Socks are really nice looking. I'd like some for myself!

Some great choices, right? Now decide on your favorite pattern, visit the poll, and vote! I'll reveal the winner next Wednesday, October 3, on our Facebook page (become a fan!), and on the blog. You'll also see the winning pattern under my picture in your Knitting Daily email.

Cheers,

Learn Something New: Heel Stitches

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 09 Jul 2012 12:00:00 GMT


Eye of Partridge Stitch on a heel flap

Plain-Jane slip-stitch heel

One of the things I love about sock knitting is there there are so many knitting techniques used in the process. And there are lots of variations for each technique, too!

The heel flap is one of the parts of a knitted sock that has A LOT of variations. Short-row heel, heel flap, slip-stitch, stockinette, or garter stitch. Sky's the limit. Personally, the heel flap isn't my favorite way to knit a sock. I actually prefer the short-row heel for looks, but you can't argue with the durability of the heel flap.

I'm going to talk about a couple of heel flap knitting techniques here, which designer and video star Donna Druchunas (her video is the PieceWork workshop Knitting Lithuanian Socks) calls "Heel Stitches."

When I want to work a sock with a heel flap, I make the flap more attractive by knitting the Eye of Partridge stitch. I learned this stitch at Sock Summit, and I've used it for heel flaps (and sometimes for toes!) almost exclusively whenever I knit a heel flap sock.

Here are the directions:

Eye of Partridge Stitch (version for heels)
Row 1: (Right side) * Sl1, K1*, repeat across, ending with K1.
Row 2 and all even rows: Sl1, purl across row.
Row 3: Sl2, * K1, Sl1,* repeat across row ending with K2.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

This pretty stitch offsets the slipped stitch every other row, resulting a diamond pattern.

Here are the directions for the tried-and-true Slip-Stitch Heel:

Row 1: (wrong side) Slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in front, purl the rest of the stitches.
Row 2: *Slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in back, knit the next stitch. Repeat from * across.
Repeat these two rows until your heel flap is the desired length, ending on the knit side.

Both of these photos are still shots taken from Knitting Lithuanian Socks. Donna Druchunas is such an excellent teacher, and the Lithuanian knitting history she's researched for this workshop is fascinating.

Get your copy of Knitting Lithuanian Socks today. You'll learn several more methods of knitting and turning heels, as well as get three beautiful sock patterns that Donna designed in the Lithuanian style.

If you can't wait, you can download the workshop and get started right away!

Cheers,

P.S. What's your favorite way to knit a heel? Leave a comment and let us know!

Love for little ones: 9 free baby knits!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 25 May 2012 12:00:00 GMT

Spring is baby season, and to celebrate we've updated our free baby knits eBook, Baby Patterns from Knitting Daily: 9 Free Baby Knitting Patterns!

1. Preemie Caps; 2. Vine Lace Baby Hat; 3. Baby's First Sock; 4. Better than Booties Baby Socks; 5. Star Light, Star Bright Baby Blanket; 6. Barnyard Booties; 7 Baby Booties to Knit; 8. Origami Baby Kimono; 9. Cabled Raglan Baby Sweater

Who doesn't love knitting for babies? The patterns are adorable, the yarns are soft, and the knitting is done before you know it! And seeing your handwork worn by the wee one you made it for is nothing short of irresistible.

The magical part is knowing that when you knit for Baby, you are knitting for the future-even when this particular child has grown out of your gift, you know the item will be carefully saved for the next little one in the family, whether that be a year or a generation away. You're not just knitting for practicality or warmth; you're knitting to create a family heirloom.

Here, we've chosen nine designs for the babies in your life. Select a preemie hat for the littlest one, three baby sock patterns, a baby bootie pattern, a blanket full of stars, a lace cap, a tiny jacket, a classic cardigan, or a set of barnyard baby booties. From the simplest garter stitch pattern to cables and lace, you'll find something here for every skill level and every taste.

We hope that one of these designs will find its way into your family's life, helping to welcome a new little person into your arms and your hearts. May the future of these young ones be bright!

Download Baby Patterns from Knitting Daily: 9 Free Baby Knitting Patterns now and start knitting for Baby today!

Cheers,

Sock Knitting: Sewn Bind-Off Tutorial

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 13:00:00 GMT


Newly finished Lacy Socks


An example of the sewn bind-off

I just finished a pair of toe-up socks; a beautiful lacy pattern that I've been working on for at least six months. Remember those New Year's Resolutions? These socks were on my "must-finish" UFO list! Yahoo! And it's the season for socks, so I've already worn them. I love

Finishing these socks made me thing about stretchy bind-offs. I bucked convention on these and simply used a size 4 needle to bind of, which made the stitches long enough to be plenty stretchy for toe-up socks, but I think this was just lucky. I'll try it again because it was so easy, but if you enjoy sock knitting, it's important to have a couple of bind-offs in your arsenal.

My favorite is the sewn bind-off. It's a bit fiddly to work, but it's worth it. Here's a tutorial by Karen Frisa, from the Spring 2011 issue of Sockupied:

Invisible Sewn Bind-Off

This bind-off makes an unassuming, attractive edge that is surprisingly elastic. It's especially effective for a garter-stitch cuff but it also works well for ribbing.

You will need: A tapestry needle and a yarn tail 4 times the circumference of your sock.


	Figure 1

	Figure 2

	Figure 3

	Figure 4

1. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.

2. Insert the tapestry needle knitwise (kwise) into the second stitch on the left needle and pull the yarn through to the back. Insert the tapestry needle purlwise (pwise) into the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1), pull the yarn through to the front, and transfer this stitch pwise to the right needle. Repeat this step once more (Figures 2 & 3).

3. Insert the tapestry needle kwise into the second stitch on the left needle and pull the yarn through. Insert the tapestry needle pwise into the first stitch on the left needle and pull the yarn through (Figure 4). Drop the first stitch off the left needle. Repeat this step until 2 stitches remain.

4. Insert the tapestry needle kwise into the second stitch on the left needle and pull the yarn through. Drop both stitches off of the left needle.

Variation: To make the purl bumps show on the right side of the work, substitute "purlswise" for "knitwise" and "knitwise" for "purlwise" in the above instructions.

Tip: Don't pull the working yarn too tightly; make sure there's enough give for the bind-off to remain stretchy.

—by Karen Frisa, from Sockupied, Spring 2011

This bind-off is truly stretchy and I think you'll like it for your toe-up knitting projects.

And for a bunch more tips and techniques about sock knitting (plus beautiful patterns!), check out spring 2011 issue of our eMag Sockupied, now available on CD!

Cheers,

A Lesson in Gauge (again!)

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 07 Sep 2011 12:00:00 GMT


Sunshine socks from Sock Innovation by Cookie A


Kathleen's Sunshine sock


	Seaweed Cardigan stitch detail

There's a stitch pattern that I've knitted several times. It's a wavy, lace and cable pattern that doesn't have a name that I know of, so let's just call it "wavy lace," okay?

The Seaweed Cardigan by Cecily Glowick MacDonald uses this pattern, and it was one of the Knitting Daily Knit-Alongs last year, and I knit a scarf using the wavy lace pattern, too. I really love how it looks, so I thought I'd do Cookie A.'s Sunshine sock pattern from Sock Innovation, which uses a very similar wavy lace pattern.

When I wear my Seaweed Cardigan it's really loose and stretchy, so I didn't think twice about knitting Sunshine with my preferred needles Addi Turbo size 2.5 mm 32-inch circulars and some really neat yarn, Berroco Sox Metallic. I did my gauge swatch and got gauge in stockinette stitch, which was 40 sts = 4 inches. Good to go, right?

Wrong, but I didn't know it until I was almost done with the sock. My gauge was WAY TOO TIGHT on the lace part of the sock. There's a gauge measurement for the lace pattern, but I skipped that swatch. Big mistake, because I can't get the sock over my instep.

Even after rather severe wet blocking, the sock is way too small. So, these beauties will be for my Gramma, who has size 5 feet.

The big question here is, When will I learn? If I had done my lace pattern gauge swatch, which would probably have taken about an hour max, I would have realized that I needed to go up a needle size for the leg portion of the sock. I probably could have gone all the way up to a size 3mm for the leg section, which would have made it nice and stretchy.

This makes sense to me now, although I was pretty shocked when I first tried to try on the socks, because the cable lace pattern is much tighter than stockinette stitch—ten more stitches, in fact, the 4-inch gauge for stockinette is 30 stitches and the 4-inch gauge for the wavy lace pattern is 40 stitches. Hence the smaller leg.

It could also have something to do with the yarn. It has a metallic content that might make it less stretchy than other yarns. I've used it before on a pair of fingerless mitts, though, and I had to go down a needle size, so go figure. I'll just have to make sure I get both gauges when I try this one again. I may still decide to go up a needle size on the leg, but at least I'll be starting off with the right needle size!

If you'd like to knit something in the wavy lace pattern, try the Seaweed Cardigan or the Sunshine socks from Sock Innovation. Both products are on sale now!

Cheers,

Summer Knitting: It's all about socks!

Kathleen Cubley — Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:22:00 GMT


On Your Toes Socks by Ann Budd. Get your free sock knitting pattern now!

I'm going to Sock Summit at the end of July, and I can't wait! I just started a new pair of socks with Knitpicks Stroll, and I love them. The design is a simple lace yarnover/knit 2 together pattern, and they're knitting up pretty fast!

Socks are the perfect summer project for so many reasons. One important reason is portability—you can take them anywhere. i recently took my socks to my friend's lake cabin for a Saturday get-away. We had so much fun sitting outside and knitting socks!

Another reason for knitting sock in the summer is that sock yarn is lightweight, so you're not holding bulky wool yarn when it's 85 degrees out.Sock are also small, of course, so you don't have a heavy sweater in your lap, either!

My favorite reason is that I'll have several pairs of socks knitted when fall comes and I need to start wearing them.

I think we have a great pattern to get you started knitting socks for summer. It's the On-Your-Toes toe-up sock pattern by Ann Budd. This pattern is a great one for your first pair of toe-up socks, and it's also a showcase knitting pattern for handspun, variegated, or handpainted yarn because there's no heavy lace or cable pattern that will be obscured by the yarn color, just ribbing that'll both make the sock stretchy and help it keep it's shape.

Try the On-Your-Toes sock pattern for free! It's part of our free eBook, 7 Free Sock Knitting Patterns!

I'll be posting free sock patterns for you all summer, so stay tuned for sock knitting fun!

Cheers,

Cast on with Eunny!

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 06 Oct 2010 12:00:00 GMT

Do you ever feel like your hopes and dreams begin with a cast-on?

I know, that's a little bit over the top, but I do get really excited when I'm about to cast on a new project. I can't wait to feel how the yarn will knit up, try different types of needles—will the yarn work better with bamboo needles, hardwood needs, or metal needles?—and I love thinking about the pattern itself and any changes I might want to make so my project will fit me perfectly.

So for me, casting on brings up that wonderful feeling of new beginnings, and yes, hopes and dreams.

But what about the mechanics of the cast-on itself? So many of us use the long-tail cast-on as our default (unless the pattern we're working on calls for a specific cast-on). But, as with most things in knitting, there are many different ways to work the cast-on.


Eunny Jang doing one of the things she does best: knitting!

I have my favorites: the Old Norwegian for cuff-down socks, the Turkish for toe-up socks, the crochet method when I need a provisional cast-on, and the long-tail for almost everything else.

I thought I had a good supply of cast-on techniques in my knitting arsenal, but when I viewed Eunny Jang's new knitting workshop Getting Started Knitting, Basics and Beyond with Eunny Jang, I realized I was wrong (which happens a lot when I'm looking at resources from Eunny!).

You know how the long-tail cast-on has a wrong side and a right side? There are purl bumps on one side and smoother looking stitches on the other side. The problem is that most patterns are written so that row 1, the row you do immediately after you cast on, is the right side of your fabric, leaving the purl bumps on the right side, and row 2 is the wrong side, leaving the nicer looking stitches from your cast-on on the back of the work. Lots of knitters simply make row 1 the wrong side of the work, which is a fine solution with 9 out of 10 patterns. Other knitters really don't care and just leave the purl bumps as is on the front of the work.

I admit I fall into the latter category, and the only time this problem has really seemed like a problem is when I'm working ribbing. What I learned from Eunny is that there's a version of the long-tail cast-on that results in a ribbed cast-on. And it's easy once you get the hang of it.

So, say your sweater starts with a K2/P2 rib. With Eunny's method you cast on two stitches using the regular long-tail technique, and then cast on two stitches using the long-tail technique done backward, starting with the yarn that's wrapped around the back of your pointer finger instead of the yarn that's wrapped about your thumb.

I know—clear as mud. That's why we have a video tutorial for you!

(Please visit the site to view this media)

This is just one of many, many techniques that you'll learn from Getting Started Knitting. In just over 2 1/2 hours, Eunny demos techniques from casting on to binding off, and shares information from all corners of the knitting world. This DVD isn't just for beginners, either. There are all kinds of advanced tips and tricks (like the cast-on demonstrated above!) to take your knitting from good to great.

I can't recommend Getting Started Knitting, Basics and Beyond highly enough. I know you'll love it.

Cheers,

Fearless Sock Knitting + a Cast-On Tutorial from Sockupied!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:00:00 GMT


Ann Budd's Twisted Diamonds begin with the Channel Island cast-on.

In our new eMag, Sockupied, knitting expert Karen Frisa provides directions and demos for several different cast-ons, and I'm highlighting the Channel Island cast-on for you here on Knitting Daily.

This cast-on is really pretty—it has a picot look—and very stretchy, so it's perfect for socks. (And it's used in Anne Budd's new pattern featured in Sockupied, Twisted Diamonds!)

The Channel Island Cast-On
by Karen Frisa

A certain cast-on method can make or break your top-down socks.

Not only can it add a nice decorative edge, but it can mean the difference between socks that go on easily and socks that don't!

It's important that your cast-on be stretchy enough to span the biggest circumference of your foot—between the top of the ankle and the back of the heel—so you can pull the sock on comfortably. The top edge of the sock also has to stretch more than the rest of the sock leg, since it sits where the calf widens.

Interestingly, most of us think that if our socks are falling down the ribbing needs to be tighter, but it could just be that the cast-on is too tight for your calf.

Here's a video demo with Interweave Knits editor Eunny Jang.

(Please visit the site to view this media)

And here are the written instructions with a cool animated step-by-step illustration!


	How to do the Channel Island cast-on (if you can't see the animation, click here)

1. Holding three strands of yarn together, make a slipknot about six inches from the ends and place it on the right needle (this does not count as a stitch). Divide the three strands, using a single strand as the working yarn and the two remaining strands as the tail.

2. Place the single strand around the index finger. Wrap the two-strand tail counterclockwise around the thumb so that two wraps are visible below your thumbnail. Make a yarnover on the needle with the single strand (see the animated illustration at right).

3. Beginning at the base of the thumb, slide the needle up through both loops on the thumb, then bring it over the single strand going to the index finger to grab it, then go back down through the two loops on the thumb (see the animated illustration at right, second and third frames). Drop the thumb loops and tighten all three yarns.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the desired number of stitches; each repeat creates two stitches. Distribute the stitches over your chosen needles and remove the slipknot from the needles (but don't undo it) before joining for working in the round, knitting the "beaded" stitches and purling the yarnovers. Undo the slipknot just before weaving in the tails.

______________

Try this cast-on technique on your next pair of socks. I think you'll like how it looks and behaves.

And if you haven't purchased this special issue of Sockupied yet, get yours now! What's so special about the eMag format is that there's something for every type of learner.

In the cast-on article I've excerpted from above, you'll get Karen's step-by-step text, Eunny's demonstration videos, step-by-step animated illustrations, plus a PDF of the article to download, print and tuck in your knitting bag.

I hope you enjoy this new cast-on technique!

Cheers,

New Free Pattern: Cubist Socks by Cookie A!

Kathleen Cubley — Fri, 28 May 2010 12:00:00 GMT


I met Cookie A at Sock Summit and a gracious stranger took our picture.

We're so thrilled to be able to offer you a brand new sock pattern by Cookie A, brilliant sock designer and the author of the book Sock Innovation! Her new design, Cubist Socks, brings you one more of Cookie's amazing stitch patterns; she excels at making knit and purl stitches work with each other in a dance of ripples, cables, lace, zigzag, and much more.

Her Cubist Socks continue that tradition, and guess what? Cookie is here to introduce her new pattern and show you what's special about it. She's also issuing a special invitation to you to attend a fantastic knitting event, Knit Nation.

Welcome, Cookie!


Cookie A's Cubist Socks

Cubist Socks

Greetings, Knitting Daily readers! As many of you know, sock knitting is as popular as ever and I'm excited to share the Cubist Sock pattern with you.

The design behind these socks was influenced by my love for all things cube-like including Picasso, Cubism, and tessellations. The pattern features stylized textured "3D" cubes using a combination of garter stitch, decreases, and yarnover increases.

Like many of the sock patterns from Sock Innovation, the basic pattern unit repeats all over in a tessellating fashion with special treatment for the cuff and heel. The cuff smoothly transitions from a rib into pattern, and the pattern continues partially onto the heel to transition to a standard slipped stitch commonly used to increase heel durability.

What I love about these socks is that the stitchwork is pretty simple—just knits, purls, yarnovers and decreases-and it looks great in multicolored yarns. If you're like me, you have a lot of variegated sock yarn in your stash!

The yarn I used for this pattern is special though. It came about after some back and forth discussion with Rhichard Devrieze of Koigu, one of my favorite artisanal yarn dyers. The stipled technique that creates the speckled colors is beautiful and works well with the simple garter lace pattern. The colors remind me of some of Picasso's paintings.


Sketching the pattern for a sock can help you think through the different pieces and transitions. This was drawn in the following order: 1) Main shape drawn and tiled. 2) Texture (garter stitch) filled in, increases and decreases added to create shape. 3) Ribbing and transition between ribbing and main pattern filled in. Voila!		Cubist pattern closeup

Join the Knit Nation!

If you'd like to learn more about designing your own socks, I teach intensive sock design workshops including several sessions at the upcoming Knit Nation event in London, England.

That's right, London! What could be more fun than traveling to the UK for a knitting holiday?

Knit Nation is a knitting and spinning expo that will take place in London, England on July 29-31. There will be yarn, classes, fiber, and festivities including a Ravelry talk and party.

Centrally located at the Royal College next door to the renowned Victoria and Albert Museum, you can absorb the sites of London between classes, indulge in some yarn shopping; and search for the perfect skein of Wollmeise. I'll be joined by esteemed instructors including Nancy Bush, Judith Mackenzie McCuin, and Shirley Paden.

Please come join us! You can read more information at the Knit Nation website and see the full class list.

And I hope you enjoy these socks. They're a perfect example of the techniques illustrated in Sock Innovation, too!

Darn—There's a hole in my sock!

Kathleen Cubley — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:00:00 GMT


*Party Socks by Nancy Bush, from Knitting Traditions.*

Ever since I got my issue of Knitting Traditions, I've been thinking a lot about knitting socks. I'm planning to knit the Party Socks by Nancy Bush (photo at left) and I'm in the swatching process.

The yarn I want to use is beautiful—it's soft and a lovely charcoal color. I love my swatch so much it's hard to stop knitting! But I've heard that this particular yarn is fragile at the toe and heel, so I'm thinking of adding a reinforcing yarn. I've never done that before, have any of you?

In the meantime, I need to mend some socks I made for my mom a couple of years ago. They're beautiful socks, made from Schaefer Yarns "Anne," with a lacy cuff and a stockinette foot. Mom's worn them for two winters now and they're starting to wear at the heel.

I've been researching information about darning socks, and lo and behold I found what I was looking for in a back issue of Interweave Knits. It's good to know I'll have this technique on hand just in case I need to mend my Party Socks in a year or so.

This process will work for any piece of knitting, which is great because I have a summer sweater that needs mending, too!

Mending Techniques for Knitted Garments
by Beth Brown-Reinsel

YARNS AND TOOLS


	*My friend Mimi's gramma left her this beautiful, glass darning egg.*

Here's what you need to repair a knitted garment:

The garment in need of repair
Scissors
Tapestry needles, both blunt and sharp
A darning egg—helpful, but not essential. An orange will also work for tapered areas.
Yarn to repair the garment with, hopefully leftover from the same used for the garment. If that's not available, choose a yarn close in color and fiber content.


		CREATE A FOUNDATION First assess the hole in your garment and envision it squared off. Using a tapestry needle with a sharp point, sew a rectangle or square around the hole. Be sure to pierce at least one half of each stitch that borders the hole. Piercing the yarns will ensure that no further unraveling occurs. If you create your rectangle far enough away from the edge of the hole, you can safely go under each half stitch with your needle, rather than pierce it. Still, I recommend piercing the yarns. A good foundation row will reinforce the edge stitches, giving a solid base to the darning, and make the repair last longer. For a very solid base, work two foundation rows 1⁄8" apart all the way around the hole. This is especially good for fine gauge knitting.
Sew a rectangle or square around the hole.
		MAKE A WARP Once the foundation is laid, sew your yarn back and forth across two sides of the rectangle. These warp threads should travel around (under, then over) the foundation row once, so that two warp threads occupy the same space as two halves of each knit stitch, thereby maintaining yarn density. I use a blunt tapestry needle from this point on. A blunt needle is less likely to split the yarns, and split yarns can be very tricky to deal with.
Sew yarn back and forth across two sides of the foundation stitches.
		WEAVE A WEFT Now move your blunt tapestry needle over and under the warp yarns, going around the foundation yarn, then turn back and weave under and over in the opposite direction. Be sure that you go under yarns that were gone over in the last pass, and vice versa. Every few rows, use the tapestry needle to push the rows of weft against each other, packing them toward the first row. Don't pack it too hard, or your darned area will feel like a board. Sew in your ends on the wrong side. You're done!
Weave a weft over and under the warp yarns.

Weave as many rows as necessary to fill the hole.		And . . . you're done!

I hope you've enjoyed this darning lesson; may your socks have long lives! (And if you haven't gotten your issue of Knitting Traditions yet, hurry up before they're gone!)

Cheers!

A Decade of Knitting with Interweave

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:00:00 GMT

A note from Kathleen: It's been quite a decade for us here at Interweave. Our editorial director, Marilyn Murphy, recently took a stroll through our pattern collection and she's chosen one design for each year that she thinks represents that year in Interweave designs. Marilyn has been at Interweave for the past 16 years, so there's no better tour guide!

We've linked to the locations of these patterns; many are located in our fabulous pattern store, and some are presented now in books. I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time traveling down memory lane with Marilyn. Bon Voyage!

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A decade of unforgettable knitting and knitwear—what an explosion! Looking back at over 1000 designs that have appeared in Interweave Knits, Knitscene, and our books, it was amazing to think about just how far a knit and purl stitch could be pushed.

In 2000, Melanie Falick was editor of Knits, followed by Pam Allen, and for the past three years the brand has been led (and it still is) by the creative force of Eunny Jang. Each of these women had their own take on knitting and a sense of what would appeal to you; each upheld a unique vision that translated through the collection of designs and stories in its pages. They also had the ever-talented associates Ann Budd and Lisa Shroyer to ensure the quality of every pattern. And I got to work with all of them as Publisher and Editorial Director.

During the same period, a complete knitting frenzy took hold of the nation. We knitted through good times and bad. We knitted on subways, trains, planes, buses, and cars. We knitted in our heads, texted and talked about knitting, shared photos and mishaps online, and created a universal community. We were proud of our stashes and got hooked on more fibers and more gadgetry than ever.

So what follows as representing a decade of knitting aren't necessarily my all-time-favorite designs, nor do they epitomize the knitting flavor of the year; they are a blend of different styles, designer's signature looks, and people I admire. It doesn't even scratch the surface—it's more like a sniff test!

		2000 It's no wonder Kathy Zimmerman is known as the Queen of Cables—Welcome Back, Old Friend is one of about twenty-five cable sweaters that Kathy has designed for Interweave Knits alone since 1997. This last year, I worked on producing her new video, Classic-to-Creative Knit Cables, and not only did I learn some nifty tips and techniques, I was inspired to see how she designs these simple and complex cable combinations—she makes it look so easy.

		2001 Nancy Bush came to visit Interweave shortly after a trip to Estonia, bringing with her a satchel of lace scarves and shawls. She was so taken with the country, the people and the knitting traditions, that her enthusiasm for sharing all of it was catching. The Estonian Lace Scarf is one of the first patterns she designed using the stitches she had learned from the village women. It was also the start of her dream to write a whole book on the subject and Knitted Lace of Estonia was born in 2008! Lucky me—I got to interview Nancy and write her profile for the upcoming Interweave Knits Spring issue.

		2002 How does Norah Gaughan's brain work? It boggles my mind the every-which-way she transforms the knit stitch into making the most intriguing sweaters ever. The Sunburst Pullover is a stunning example of this. I'm sure Norah started a new evolution in knitwear design.

		2003 My personal list of designers who excel at color work is fairly short and Kristin Nicholas is right up there. Her designs were my top sellers when I owned a store in Chicago, and she continues to be one of my all-time favorite designers. The Stop-Traffic Circles sweater is a sweet combination of color, pattern, and cables—a signature style of hers.

		2004 Knits has featured about 100 sock patterns over the years—really. Plus add all the socks featured in our books, and I'd say socks rock. They rocked big time in 2004—a very pivotal year when many, many knitters picked up those DPNs and never looked back. Evelyn Clark's Retro Rib Socks and Waving Lace Socks were two fine examples of the reason why. These also made it into the final selection of our book, Favorite Socks. 2004 was also the year of the scarf—when many new and returning knitters came into the fold.

		2005 This was the year of the wrap—a.k.a. poncho, shawl, capelet. It was the year of the Martha-released-from-prison Poncho. I still have many pages flagged from Knits and from Wrap Style. We created our own "free-to-be-me" ponchos here, and more in the latest Knits Accessories. If lace knitting can be a rage, then Miriam Felton's Icarus Shawl, was part of it. Not only did shawls continue to be hot—we released Wrap Style in fall 2005—lace was picking up big steam and this combination was a true winner. (This was also the year I learned about lace lifelines.)

		2006 If I say "CPH," do you know what I mean? Has anyone not made Heather Lodinsky's Central Park Hoodie? Kathleen just finished the knit-along on Knitting Daily. It's hands-down our top-selling pattern in the store. Plus, Lisa Shroyer, editor of Knitscene (where the pattern first appeared), added many more sizes to Heather's original design, which was featured in Knitscene Fall 06.

		2007 Jared Flood's early designs appeared in Interweave Knits. When the issue came out—an all-out bestselling issue—I kept hearing the buzz about the Cobblestone Pullover and the many people making it. It didn't take long to figure out the top reasons why this issue sold out quickly—Jared's pullover, Norah Gaughan's Tilted Duster, and Eunny Jang's Tangled Yoke Cardigan.

		2008 Fit and flatter—my how our knitting expertise shined this year. No more loose-fitting garments for us. No more hiding our curves. Deborah Newton continued to out-do herself in this category—Windowpane Jacket was the Fall cover. And we were flattered even more by the new designer, Connie Chang Chinchio and her Printed Silk Cardigan.

		2009 Simplistic, intriguing, refreshing. The Whisper Cardigan by Hannah Fettig is just that—thick-and-thin texture, great Merino lace wool, and larger-than-usual needles. It sums up what we needed to balance out the chaos of a year.

May we continue to stick our needles out and, stitch-by-stitch, whip up more great designs in this decade. And may each stitch bring you peace and joy!

—Marilyn Murphy

Binding Off: Intermediate and Advanced Techniques

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 13:00:00 GMT

A note from Kathleen: Raise your hand if you've bound off too tightly, bound off on the wrong side, or bound off too loosely. My hand is WAY up; how 'bout yours? I was recently looking through my back issues of Interweave Knits (which I can now do right from my computer with the compilation CDs!) and I came upon an article about several different bind-off techniques that I thought you all might be interested in. It was written by knitting expert Ann Budd, and I've found it really helpful. In fact, I now almost always use the Suspended Bind-Off in place of the Standard Bind-Off. I hope you'll get some good use from these bind-off techniques as well.
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Binding Off: A Fitting End

At some point, all knitting must come to an end and the stitches must be removed from the needles. This can occur at the end of a project when all of the stitches are bound off, or along shaped edges, such as armholes and necklines. Over the centuries, knitters have devised a number of ways to secure the final row of knitting, while producing an edge that is elastic and flexible.

Following are several ways to bind off stitches, each with advantages. For best results, all bind-offs should be worked with even tension to produce an elastic edge that will stretch with the knitted fabric below it. If worked too loosely, the edge will flair and look sloppy. Worked too tightly, the edge will fray and eventually break, especially along edges that are subject to stretching such as necklines. To prevent an overly tight bind-off, use a needle one (or more) sizes larger than the one used for the body of the project.

End each of these bind-off techniques by cutting the yarn and pulling the tail through the last stitch.

Standard Bind-Off
This is the most common, and for many knitters, the only method for binding off. Use this method for edges that will be sewn into seams or finished in some way (such as stitches being picked up and knitted). Slip 1 stitch, *knit 1 stitch, insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle (Step 1), pass this stitch over the second stitch (Step 2), and off the needle—1 stitch remains on right needle and 1 stitch has been bound off (Step 3). Repeat from *.


Step 1		Step 2		Step 3

Suspended Bind-Off
This method is similar to the standard bind-off but produces a more elastic edge. Use this method when you want to ensure against a tight bind-off edge. Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, *insert left needle tip into first stitch on right needle and lift the first st over the second (Step 1), leaving the first stitch on the left needle, knit the next stitch (Step 2), then slip both stitches off the left needle—2 stitches remain on right needle and 1 stitch has been bound off (Step 3). Repeat from * until no stitches remain on left needle, then pass first st on right needle over the second.


Step 1		Step 2		Step 3

Invisible Ribbed Bind-Off
This method produces a rounded edge that is extremely elastic. It follows the k1, p1 rib and is ideal for neckbands. Work this bind-off with a tapestry needle. Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, insert tapestry needle purlwise (from right to left) through the first (knit) stitch (Step 1) and pull the yarn through, bring the tapestry needle behind the knit stitch, insert it knitwise (from left to right) into the second (purl) stitch (Step 2) and pull the yarn through, *use the tapestry needle to slip the first knit stitch knitwise off the knitting needle, insert tapestry needle purlwise into the next knit stitch (Step 3) and pull the yarn through, slip the first stitch purlwise off the knitting needle, then bring the tapestry needle behind the knit stitch, insert it knitwise into the next purl stitch (Step 4), and pull the yarn through. Repeat from *.


Step 1		Step 2


Step 3		Step 4

Sewn Bind-Off
This method, invented by Elizabeth Zimmermann, forms an exceedingly elastic edge (so it's great for toe-up socks!) that has a ropy appearance, much like a purl row. Work this bind-off with a tapestry needle.Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, *insert tapestry needle purlwise (from right to left) through the first two stitches (Step 1) and pull the yarn through, bring the needle knitwise (from left to right) through first stitch (Step 2), pull the yarn through, and slip this stitch off the knitting needle. Repeat from *.


Step 1		Step 2