Knitting Daily : Measuring

We Ask the Editors: What Are You Proudest of Making?

KD Sandi — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:55:00 GMT

Do you ever wonder what the experts are proudest of making? I thought it might be fun to know what the editors of Interweave Knits, PieceWork, Interweave Crochet, and Spin-Off thought were their finest craft pieces--so I asked them to share the best of the work of their hands with us.

The one knit I'm most proud of is the Rambling Rose Cardigan from Interweave Knits Winter 2006. In a DK weight with lace inserts, raglan shaping, and a long silhouette, it wasn't a quick knit, but I enjoyed the knitting so much I finished it in about a month's time. The yarn is a wool/cashmere blend from Karabella, the fit is very slinky, and I worked the sweater all in one color, unlike the original that uses intarsia for a two-color look. It's a wardrobe staple for me!

--Lisa Shroyer
Senior Editor, Interweave Knits

As long-time Knitting Daily readers know, sometimes it takes me a long time to finish a project (update: I did finish the sweater for my Dad after only twelve years). So, the fact that it only took me two years to spin, design, and knit this domino sweater for my daughter Hannah gives me great relief. Here’s a picture of Hannah shortly after I finished it in January 2009. The spinning was a piece of cake, it was the knitting that took me a long, long time. The pattern will be in the All New Homespun, Handknit book that will be available this fall from Interweave.

-- Amy Clarke Moore
Editor, Spin-Off

I first started writing about crafts at the urging of Weta Ray Clark, the Home editor at The News & Observer in Raleigh, NC. She kept nudging and cajoling until I said yes. It was the best idea I never had, that brainstorm of Weta's. Meeting and reporting on crafters was the best fun ever.

So when Weta fell ill with non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, I did what I know best: bring together crafters to make a blanket for Weta, whose treatments left her chilled even on the hottest Carolina days. I asked the newspaper's resident knitters and crocheters to make a strip of fabric 36 inches long. As anyone who has coordinated a blanket knows, everyone has her own tools for measuring, not all related to actual inches. So when the strips came in all sorts of crazy lengths, I laid them out and pondered. Initially, I attempted to make a merry blanket with edgy variable ends; it was quite terrible, soothing to neither eye nor soul. I pulled the strips apart, then kept nudging and cajoling until the strips lined up at the ends. I crocheted them together with various bright yarns, then added a deep crocheted ruffle, to create a bright confection of love.

Weta is no longer with us, but it is because of her that I am with you. I am glad to have helped transform the blanket from a wish to a warmth. It's what crafters do best.

-- Marcy Smith
Editor, Interweave Crochet

My mom was a very skilled and avid knitter. Regardless of what she was working on, she would stop to knit something for me—usually a new Fair Isle to match my latest ski clothes. But one day, I knew it was time, and I asked her to teach me. Although she was a very patient teacher, her eyebrows did raise when I announced that my first complete project would be a red cashmere scarf for my then boyfriend (it worked; he’s now my husband!). She wrote out a pattern, I bought the yarn and needles, and set off. Months and months passed; the planned Christmas gift was now to be a birthday gift; no wait, next Christmas! I finally finished it about two weeks before Christmas and promptly shipped it off to Mom for her to repair the numerous dropped stitches (I hadn’t given her enough time to teach me that part!). As usual, Mom worked wonders; Bob received his handknitted scarf, which he still wears. Of the handmade things I’ve made, I love this scarf the best—thank you, Mom!

--Jeane Hutchins
Editor, PieceWork

What things have you knitted that have made you the most proud? Leave a comment in our Forums--and maybe even upload a photo to the Reader's Gallery!

Thanks to our editors for sharing their proudest moments with us. We're all thrilled to bring good patterns and techniques to you so you can share in crafting and make something you're proud of, too. Need some more inspiration? This week, we have a special offer for those of you who wish to subscribe to all our fiber craft magazines. If you already subscribe to any of these magazines, we'll simply tag on a year to your subscription. We'll continue to supply patterns and information we're proud of and hope you'll continue to create.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? I had to rip back a half-row of stars on the Star Light, Star Bright baby blankie because I dropped a yarn-over or three somewheres...all of a sudden, the stars were leaning a little bit too much to the left! So now I have a proper lifeline installed, as well as extra stitch markers. Onwards!

Sweaters For Men: Seven Key Areas of Fit

KD Sandi — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 18:25:00 GMT

Today, I was going to talk about measuring men, but after what Franklin said on Monday, I'm a little hesitant to just jump right in getting you gents to measure your biceps for me. I mean, we've barely met. But hey. It's what I do. And you manly folk deserve to have great-fitting sweaters, too, right? Yup. So shake hands and let's get down to business.

Recently, a young man approached me at a yarn shop and asked for help "upsizing" and fitting a pullover. He was a big dude (and handsome, with a charming southern accent, and yes in fact, I am married so nevermind), and took great pride in knitting--and wearing--his own handknit garments. But he had some "challenge areas" in terms of sweater fit: He had extra weight across his upper back; he was large in the belly, but not in the chest. If he made the sweater to fit his chest measurement, it hung loose over his chest, stretched tightly across his back, and clung uncomfortably to his belly and hips.

Sound familiar? No mystery here. Men have bust measurements too, although knitting patterns refer to these as "chest" measurements. They have hips and waists. And sometimes, men need shaping to help their garments fit over generous bellies, buff chests, and other wild, untamed bits of manly landscape.

Measuring Men: Key Areas of Fit

The key difference between men's fashions and women's fashions is: Women's fashions are designed for curves, and men's are designed for straight lines. (In General, folks. I just covered seven thousand years of fashion history in those thirteen words, so there's gonna be some wiggle room, particularly around the Renaissance period.) Either way, curved or straight, male or female, the lines of a given knitting pattern may not match YOUR lines, and that is where careful measuring and comparison to the schematic is useful.

When knitting for men, there are seven key areas of fit to consider:

(For grammatical sanity purposes I am speaking as though the knitter is a woman measuring a man; those of you knitters who are men knitting for yourself please forgive the limitations of the language and translate appropriately. I know you are out there, Brother Knitters, I just have to pick a pronoun and stick with it!)

Sleeve length: Measure from shoulder seam to wrist. Some folks like to do this one with his arm outstretched; I prefer to do it with the arm down at his side, so that the muscular curve over the top of his shoulder gets accounted for.

Armhole to neck opening: This is the place where you find out how broad or narrow his shoulders are. Measure across the top of the shoulder, where the shoulder seam goes.

Neck opening: No dude likes to wear something that chokes him--or makes him look like a chicken neck! Measure a favorite sweatshirt of his and compare to the schematic.

Armhole depth: Give those biceps and triceps some room! But not too much room, or it will just add bulk at his upper chest (unless that is something he needs). Again, a favorite sweater or sweatshirt of his will give you some help here.

Hip circumference: Also known as "the widest part of the lower torso." This includes his belly and backside. If the gent's widest bit isn't technically at his hips, but a bit higher or lower, measure the widest part so you know how big to make the biggest part of his sweater.

Chest circumference: This is the base measurement for most sweater patterns. For guys, this is measured exactly like for the gals: Over the fullest part of his chest. If it isn't clear just where this is, then wrap the tape measure around his chest loosely, and slide it up and down his chest a bit until the numbers tell the tale. Oh, and tell Mr. Handsome to breathe normally when you measure: there's no point in holding his breath! He wouldn't want a sweater that tight anyways.

Total length: Too short, and a perfectly good sweater can make any guy look silly instead of svelte; too long, and it can make him look sloppy instead of suave. Start by considering a length that hits him a couple of inches above the crotch and then adjust for his own physique.

There is nothing more charming, nor more breathtakingly handsome, than the sight of a man in a well-fitting handknit sweater.
--Sandi

Friday: What to do with those "areas of challenge" in manly sweaters.

Want more help knitting for the male of the species?

In her book Men In Knits, Tara Jon Manning has an entire thirty-six pages of tips for fitting and flattering Mr. Handsome. She even has worksheets you can copy and fill out to help you find exactly the right fit. Tara takes you through things like discovering a guy's personal style and determining his body type; she then gives suggestions for which sweater styles are most flattering to each type. The second part of the book has more than 20 classic sweater patterns to choose from! Learn more.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Hm. I have run into an interesting adjustment issue in the Camisa...I am puzzling it out and will report shortly. Meanwhile, I finished a pair of socks for myself. I love socks. And I'm going to need lots of them here!

Video Tip: Learn How and Where to Measure

KD Sandi — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 14:06:00 GMT

One of the most critical skills in learning how to knit for yourself is learning how to measure yourself. Sometimes it helps to have a visual, so today we have a little special treat: a clip from Knitting Daily TV showing Kim Werker demonstrating measuring techniques. This clip is from Episode 102: The Sweater, which is all about how to make the perfect sweater for yourself. (Find out where Knitting Daily TV is showing in your area, or purchase the entire first season on DVD online.)

(Please visit the site to view this media)

We also have some online tutorials, some with photos, to help you out. Here are some links that you might want to take a look at:

Using The Clothes You Already Own To Find What Fits You

Measuring Tutorial With Photos

Understanding Those Pesky Measurements and The Schematic

About Measurements And Ease

Did you know? These links and more can be found in the How-To Section of Knitting Daily.

You people are amazing! When I invited you to "write your own commentaries" for this week's LYS Galleries, I wasn't sure how it would turn out. Well, I needn't have worried--the commentaries you wrote were insightful, thoughtful, and detailed. I admit my first thought about halfway down the comments was, "Well, I guess they don't need me anymore!" Great job.

Quick answers to a couple of reader questions:

Could you make a sleeveless version of the Diamond Cabled Pullover? Hm. The armholes on this sweater are square, and are set deep into the body of the sweater (note the photo of Bertha). You'd have to do something to those armholes, especially in the front, otherwise a sleeveless version would be quite revealing.

Is there a knitted version of the Spanish Moss Coat? A knitted version of any crochet pattern is a horse of different color! Meaning: It would basically be an entirely new pattern. Sure, you could take the schematic (ahem!) and use those measurements to figure out knitted stitch and row counts of a given yarn at a given gauge. But there is no direct "translation" from one crochet stitch pattern to a knitted stitch pattern, and no easy way to "convert" a crochet pattern to a knitted one (or vice-versa). So, unfortunately, no, there is not a knitted version. (There's similar styles, like Katie Himmelberg's Hideout Coat, which you can buy in our pattern store, but even that one is not "the same"!)

Knit your heart out over the weekend, folks.

--Sandi

Free pattern!

Our featured free pattern this week is Lisa Myer's Leggings from Knit So Fine. And yes, these leggings have shaping! The shaping here is actually formed by the lovely traveling stitch pattern. Lisa is a guest on Episode 113: Oh-So-Fine of Knitting Daily TV, so check it out! (Look for Knit So Fine at your local yarn shop, or purchase it online.)

Wondering where the Knitting Daily TV show is being broadcast? Here's a searchable list of all the stations currently signed up to show KDTV. Can't wait to see the episodes? Buy a copy of the entire first season on DVD.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Seaming, seaming. I am stitching up the Camisa, and weaving in the ends. And yes, even I have to rip out a seam a time or two until I am satisfied with the way it looks.

Learn To Make A Sweater That Fits You Perfectly

KD Sandi — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 17:10:00 GMT

At first when I thought about this post, I was going to write about my process for doing those little fit-and-flatter commentaries for the Galleries. I was going to talk about how I sit and read through every single pattern with the sample sweater in my lap, studying how the garment is constructed, where the increases and decreases are placed, what the pattern stitch multiples are...

But the REAL question on everyone's minds is, of course: How do YOU do figure out how to adjust a pattern for yourself at home, when there is no actual sample sweater to study and try on?

Believe it or not, you have all the tools you need, without that fabulous Actual Sweater From The Magazine. The information really is all there, you just have to know what to look for, and what to do with it once you've found it. (Kind of like life, yes?)

Where to look: It's all in the schematic, my friends. That little grey drawing with all those numbers on the second or third page? Yep. That's your gold mine of information about fit and flatter.

What to have nearby: A measuring tape. A notebook and pencil. A sweater, laid flat, that fits you the way you want the new sweater to fit you. (If you need two sweaters from your closet, one that fits you up top and one that fits you at the bottom, go for it!)

What to do: Measure each of the key dimensions below on the laid-flat-favorite-sweater and compare to the corresponding measurement on the schematic. Got it? Measure flat sweater in location A, compare to schematic measurement in location A. Where the measurements differ, you know you have to make an alteration.

10 Key Measurements That Determine Your Best Fit

When we look at a sweater on someone, our eyes go to these ten places, almost without us realizing it. If any one of these is too big/too small, the sweater will be ill-ftting.

1. Finished bust
2. Finished hip
3. Finished waist
4. Neckline width
5. Neckline depth
6. Neckline to shoulder "seam"
7. Shoulder "seam" to shoulder "seam" across the back
8. Underbust to waist height
9. Waist to hem height
10. Sleeve length

When I am writing the commentaries for the Galleries, I study each photo for the fit in the ten areas listed above, and suggest adjustments accordingly. I'm eyeballing it most of the time, but with the schematic and your favorite sweater's measurements, you'll have a much better chance of getting your sweaters to fit better. This is the way I approach my personal knitting, as well as my professional design work. And I have to tell you: Sure enough, if I end up with Gorilla Sleeves or a too-small fit across the shoulders, you can bet I forgot to check my measurements against the schematic.

In other words: The Schematic Rocks. Make friends with it, and it will give you many beautifully fitting sweaters in return.

Part Two of the Interweave Crochet Galleries

Now it's your turn. Today, we have four more galleries: two with Sandi Commentaries--Spanish Moss Coat and Ridge Swing Cardigan--and two without--Northern Dreams Pullover and Diamond Cables Pullover. Why no Sandi Commentaries on the last two? Because now I want YOU to be the commentators. Check out the photos, look at the fit of the sweaters in the ten areas listed above, and write in your own commentaries about the best fit and flatter for our models.

Enjoy!
--Sandi

P. S. If you didn't get a chance to see the first half of our Local Yarn Shop Interweave Crochet Galleries, here they are!

All these pretty garments are from the new Fall 2008 issue of Interweave Crochet--look for it at your local yarn shop, or buy a copy online from us.

(Try your local yarn shop first, though. That way, if you fall in love with one of the patterns in the magazine, you can shop for yarns right away...oh, sorry. Am I enabling you in your yarn habit? Um, yes. Guilty as charged. I love my job.

Purchase Interweave Crochet Fall 2008

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Every knitter has dreamed of the perfect cardigan pattern that he or she might knit some day. From a cozy cable knit to luminous lace, this free ebook will be your dream come true. This is a wonderful and varied collection of cardigans-which is one of the most important pieces in your wardrobe. You'll want to make every one of these knit cardigan patterns, so download your free eBook now and get started (and don’t forget to tell a friend so they can enjoy their own copy!).

Download Your Free eBook Today

Bust Dart Math!

KD Sandi — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:37:00 GMT

I guarantee that explaining this will take far longer than it will take you to actually DO the math. Plus, if I were sitting right next to you, I could show you in a nanosecond. But, we have our friend the written word to help us, so here we go: Bust Dart Math!

For a top-down in-the-round sweater, vertical bust darts are lines of decreases that take the full-bust measurement of fabric at your bust and decrease it in size until it matches the measurement under your bust. Thus, we start off with:

1. How much do you need to vertically decrease?

You'll need two measurements of your own beautiful self:
Full Bust (FB): Around your bust at its fullest part.
Under Bust (UB): Around your ribcage, just under your bust.

Now, subtract:
FB minus UB equals Total Decrease Amount (TDA).

However, we need to convert that TDA measurement to rows/rounds and stitches so we know what to knit, right?

2. How much are we decreasing in each individual dart/decrease round? And then, how many decrease rounds do we work overall?

Figure out the stitches-per-inch gauge.
Divide that gauge into four (4 divided by gauge) because we are working four decreases for each round (two bust darts each side; each dart is a line of vertical decrease stitches). The result is the Decrease Amount Per Round (DAR).
To find the number of decrease rounds: TDA divided by DAR = Total Decrease Rounds (TDR). (Hold onto that TDR number for a bit.)

3. Where do you put the dart (decrease) stitches in each round?

Remember that we are assuming a top-down sweater worked in the round. Here's how we figure out precisely where to put the dart stitches in each round:

Make sure you have marked the midpoint of each armhole on your partial sweater. This marker is at the "side seam," so to speak. We'll do all the counting/measuring in relationship to that marker, so it's pretty important.
Find this "side seam" location on yourself, too. (Go ahead, cheat: Put on a thin shirt that actually has side seams.) Measure forward from the side seam to your nipple. This measurement, side seam to nipple, we'll call N.
Try on your partially-knitted sweater, and place a safety pin (carefully...) next to the stitch closest to your nipple (by "next to," I mean on the "armhole" side of that stitch). Count the stitches from this marker to the side seam marker and you have what we'll call Total Side Stitches (TSS). (If all the math works out perfectly, then your stitches per inch gauge times your TSS should equal N, but don't stress too much about this one, because your bust may be stretching the gauge out a bit!) NOTE: Use a safety pin or a marker that looks very different from your other markers to mark the nipple stitch, because you will want to remove this one before knitting and you won't want to get confused which marker is which.

Location of the Center Dart: (On Bertha in the photo above, this dart is represented by the BLACK clip.) This dart is easy. You want it to be about .25" away from your nipple, towards the side seam. Figure out how many stitches that is (use your stitch gauge or just measure), and place another marker at that spot. Whoo! Center Dart Alert! (Now do the same thing on your other side for the other Center Dart.)

Location of the Side Dart: (On Bertha, this dart is represented by the PINK clip.) This one is a leetle more tricky, but we can handle it. There are two ways to figure out this dart: using measurements, or using actual stitch counts.

Measurement Way: N minus .25" was where we put the Center Dart, right? Well, the Side Dart is placed at the point one-third of the remaining distance from Center Dart to side seam: [N-.25] divided by three equals the distance from Center Dart to Side Dart, measuring from nipple towards the side seam. Place a marker there for the Side Dart; do this step again for your other side. (See how on Bertha the pink clip is about a third of the way between her non-existent nipple and her "side-seam"? That's what I'm talking about here.)

Stitch Count Way: For this, you have to figure out how many stitches are in the .25" you used for the Center Dart above. Got that? OK, then: [TSS minus that number] divided by three equals the number of stitches between the Center Dart and the Side Dart. Place marker and repeat on other side.

(Note: On Bertha, her pink clip is a little bit further forward than the "one-third" rule. That's because Bertha's curves are about a B or C cup; my "one-third" rule/suggestion/guideline/loosely-discussed-between-friends-number is what I used for my D/DD cups. If you did the exercise with the hair clips and the loose tee shirt, you may have your own customized measurements for the placement of the Center Darts and Side Darts. Use those. They're all about you, baby!)

4. Now, the knitting instructions:

Remove the safety pin that marked the location of your nipple. (If you leave it in, you might get confused which marker is a dart and which is your nipple. Amusing, but not very helpful.)
Starting at the first "side seam" marker, work to three stitches before the first Side Dart marker, ssk, k1, slip m.
Work to three stitches before the first Center Dart marker, ssk, k1, slip m.
Work across the center front of your sweater until you get to the other Center Dart marker, slip m, k1, k2tog.
Work to the other Side Dart marker, slip m, k1, k2tog.
Finish this round, and then work one round even.
Repeat those two rounds (one dartly decrease round and one work even round) a total of TDR times (the number you held onto in Step 1).

There.

Wow. Know what? YOU HAVE DARTAGE!! Notice that the decreases will form vertical, diagonal lines that are actually quite attractive.

An example is always better, but we've run out of space to do that today. We can do that on Friday, plus I can start answering questions then, too.

--Sandi

P.S. Have something to add to the discussion? Need to ask a question? Leave a comment! I'm not quite actually and fully back yet due to Unforseen Circumstances, but remote access is a beautiful thing.

Previous Bust Dart Posts:

The Return of The Bust Darts

Introduction to Darts: Vertical and Short-Row

Bust Dart Placement

Getting Started With Your Bust Darts: Shoulders To Bust

Finally: A Gallery With Men In It!

KD Sandi — Sun, 04 May 2008 16:00:00 GMT

Today, I am pleased to present to you: The Men of Interweave, wearing Kathy Zimmerman's Brick Pullover.

Aaron in his red carpet moment

It was much easier to get the guys to pose for gallery photos than I thought it would be. I had imagined having to promise free pizza; but Mark, T.J., Aaron, and Eric were actually a bit excited about being included. (Aaron kept talking about his moment of stardom and how it might lead to "bigger things." I felt badly about that—I mean, this is a knitting site. It's not like there are casting directors scanning our galleries for the next Harrison Ford. Sorry, Aaron. But if anyone knows Ryan Seacrest or Simon Cowell, could you please give them a ring on Aaron's behalf? Thanks.)

More men are knitting than ever before, and it's been pointed out to me that I tend to address only the women knitters, leaving the guy knitters feeling a bit slighted. So, men, this time, it's all you. Women, I know you want to knit for the guys in your life, so please change the pronouns as appropriate.

You men knitters have it easier in terms of getting your knits to fit. For one thing, you do not have to ever worry about inserting bust darts. (Big plus right there, as far as this busty gal is concerned.) You generally do not wear your clothing with negative ease, so again, you don't have to do things like waist shaping and tummy darts and all that.

However, for men-who-knit and those who knit-for-men, there are four things to watch for in terms of fit: overall ease, hem length, sleeve length, and shoulder width.

Ease: The more clothing you like to wear underneath, the more ease you will need, so ease preferences can vary from summer to winter. Guys, go into your closet and measure several of your favorite sweaters to get an idea of how much ease you prefer.

Hem and sleeve length: These are rather individual choices. My husband, who has extremely long arms, likes his sweater cuffs extra-long—to the base of his thumb, actually. So again, measure yourself, measure what's in your closet, and knit accordingly.

Shoulder width: If the sweater's shoulder width (across the back of the shoulders) is not wide enough, you will have trouble moving your arms comfortably. Again, get out that measuring tape and go explore your closet.

Everyone had a lot of fun with this Gallery; I hope you enjoy it, too!

—Sandi

View the Brick Pullover Gallery

List of all past Gallery pages

Stay tuned: We'll be announcing the winners of the Knitting Daily Poetry Contest later this week! Hundreds of entries left our judges fighting for their favorites; we finally have the results!

We love to hear what you think! Really. Would I lie to you?

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? With a couple of projects marinating in the Naughty Corner, I went back to knitting socks. When all else fails, knit socks.

Waist Shaping: From Hip To Waist

KD Sandi — Tue, 18 Mar 2008 14:00:00 GMT

Alright, heeeere we go. Let's roll up our sleeves and go over how to figure out how much to decrease from hip to waist and where to put the decreases. Again, we will go slow, and there are no stupid questions.

Recap: We are doing the math for a theoretical, no-time-to-knit-a-real-one, sweater. The sweater is worked from the bottom up, in the round; we are using my measurements because I am easily talked into such things. We've already done the math up until the hip, which is where our first decrease will be worked. The gauge is 7 stitches per inch and 13 rounds per inch; at the hip, we have 319 stitches on our needles.

Here are the steps to work out the decreases from hip to waist.

1. Gather your measurements.

My hip circumference is 44"; my waist circumference is 36.5".

2. Determine your preferred ease for this garment.

At my hip, I chose 1.5" positive ease based on how I like to wear similar garments.

3. Add hip measurement to ease to get finished hip measurement of sweater.

44" plus 1.5" equals 45.5" finished hip circumference Note that this is the measurement that would show up on a schematic.

4. Determine how much ease you want at the waist.

Do I want the same amount of ease at my waist as at my hips? I think I'd like this sweater to follow the curves of my body a bit more closely than the gentle shaping we talked about last week, so I will leave the ease the same at the waist as at the hips: 1.5" positive ease.

5. Add waist measurement to ease to get finished waist measurement of sweater.

36.5" plus 1.5" equals 38" finished waist circumference.

6. Calculate how much you need to decrease from hip (widest bit) to waist (narrow bit).

This is the finished hip measurement minus finished waist measurement: 45.5" minus 38" equals 7.5".

7. Determine the number of total stitches to decrease, hip to waist.

This is the result from number 6 above, multiplied by the stitch gauge: 7.5" times 7 stitches per inch equals 52.5 stitches, which we will round down to make a nice even 52.

Now we know we have to decrease 52 stitches from hip to waist to get that curvy curve with 1.5" positive ease at both hip and waist. To work a gentler curve, use a larger amount of positive ease at the waist and do fewer decreases.

8. Measure the vertical distance over which the decreases will be worked.

We need to know the distance over which we are decreasing—in this case, what is the distance from hip to waist? Using my measuring tape, I find that this is 5" on me. So, I have 5" in which to decrease 52 stitches, or 65 rounds (5" times 13 rounds per inch).

9. Decide where to put the decreases in each decrease round.

Generally, decreases are worked on either side of the "side seams," which is in quotes here because my theoretical sweater is worked in the round. One on either side of the "side seam" each side works out to four decreases per decrease round. 52 divided by 4 equals 13, so I will need 13 decrease rounds. Length in which to decrease (65 rounds) divided by number of decrease rounds (13) equals distance between decrease rounds (5 rounds).

Summary: From hip to waist, I will work 52 decreases over 65 rounds, with one decrease round every 5th round. Each decrease round contains 4 decreases, one on each side of the "side seam."

And now we are at the waist! Halfway there! Whoo!

Did that help? Remember, there are no stupid questions, so if you have something to ask, or just something to say, about today's post, feel free to leave a comment. If your fellow posters don't answer you back, then I might put your question into a future Knitting Daily post!

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Download Your Free eBook Today

Waist Shaping: The Math, Hem to Hip

KD Sandi — Tue, 11 Mar 2008 22:00:00 GMT

Don't be scared. I know it says "math" in the title, but it's knitting math, so we can handle it, right? (Fearless knitters and all that.) Plus, we'll go slow, we'll do this in stages, you can ask questions, and there are no stupid questions, ever. OK. Now that you know the basic concepts behind waist shaping, let's talk some numbers.

Waist shaping on a simple shirt: Hem to hip

We'll do the math for a theoretical sweater for myself, using my battered-and-beloved copy of Ann Budd's Knitter's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns as a template. I'll start with the charts for a basic pullover, modified to be worked in the round.

Remember, this is a theoretical sweater, folks. No time to knit an actual sweater, but that's OK. It's just to illustrate The Numbers.

Gauge Swatch:
Yes, indeedie, I must theoretically knit a theoretical gauge swatch, because I need to know two numbers: stitches per inch, and rounds per inch.
Gauge: 7 stitches per inch and 13 rounds per inch.

Measurements:
For this part I need to know: hip circumference, hem-to-hip length, and the all-important Desired Ease. For ease, I'd like something body-skimming, but not tight. (No negative ease this time.)
Hips: 44" I measure this with my handy tape measure.
Hem-to-hip length: 2" I choose this based on the pattern and garment shape.
Ease: 1.5" (positive) ease I choose this based on how I like to wear garments of a similar style.

How many stitches to cast on?
Add together hip measurement and ease: 44" plus 1.5" equals 45.5".
Multiply by gauge: 45.5" times 7 sts per inch equals 318.5 sts.
Round up: 319 stitches to cast on at lower hem.

What to do next?
I start knitting! I work even over those 319 stitches for 2" (see hem-to-hip length, above), which works out to 26 rounds (2" times 13 rounds per inch).

Once I have finished those 26 rounds, I have reached my widest bit. It is time for the decreases to begin!

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Download Your Free eBook Today

Waist Shaping: An Overview

KD Sandi — Tue, 04 Mar 2008 23:00:00 GMT

I'm noticing that the very mention of the term "shaping," let alone "waist shaping," seems to provoke some spirited discussions amongst knitters. Some folks want it, but don't know how to do it. Some folks might want it, but are shy, thinking that it is only for the young and slender. Some folks would rather wear a live snake draped about their person than wear something that shows off their waist.

And some folks are still just trying to find their waist.

So, let's first figure out how to incorporate waist shaping into a simple sweater. You might be surprised to find out what a little bit of shaping does for even the most ample of curves.

Waist shaping for Bertha

Assuming you are working in the round, and working from the hem upwards, you can pretty much sum up waist shaping like this: Make a tube big enough for your hips, tummy, and backside. Start decreasing down to give yourself a nice bit o' the hourglass treatment. Work even for a bit so you can breathe. Then start increasing up so you will have enough fabric to cover The Ladies. Voila: Waist Shaping!

That's really the whole idea. Not complicated at all, see? Take a look at the sketch provided, which is a rough schematic of Bertha (yes, to scale!). As you read the steps below, compare them to the schematic, and see if that helps you visualize the process a bit better.

We're going to walk through the steps—WITHOUT ANY NUMBERS—to give you a nice little mental picture of how you would go about putting waist shaping in an otherwise no-shape, hem-up, boxy sweater. (We'll do the numbers later, I promise.)

1. Cast on enough stitches at the hem to fit comfortably over your hips/behind/belly, plus whatever ease you prefer. The sweater needs to go over your widest bits, remember, so if you widest bit is your belly, make sure there are enough stitches to fit over your belly-plus-ease.

2. Knit upwards from the hem in whatever pattern pleases you until you reach the widest part of your lower torso, whatever that part may be: hips, waist, belly, or perhaps a bodacious combination of the above.

3. At the part of your body where things start to get a little smaller, start your decreases. This might be the top of your hips, the rolling landscape over your belly, or the generous curves of your backside.

4. Work decreases gradually—a couple of stitches every few rows/rounds—in order to get the stitch count down to a number that more closely resembles what you need to go around your waist (plus ease).

5. Work even for a short section, because your waist is usually not a deep V; it's usually more like the bottom of a valley. This also allows you to breathe, which in my family is a popular sport.

6. Start increasing gradually at the same rate as you decreased earlier until you have enough stitches to comfortably fit over your bust area (plus ease).

7. Continue working the rest of the garment as written.

That's it. (Well, some numbers would help, but we'll get to that.) It really is that simple! From here, then, it's not a long leap to "designing" your own well-fitting sweater!

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Download Your Free eBook Today

Knit For Your Shape: Waist Q & A

KD Sandi — Thu, 28 Feb 2008 15:00:00 GMT

Lots of interesting questions in your comments this week, so I pulled out a few to answer in the hopes that together we can clarify some of this! In the end, though, remember that the important part is to know your body's shape and be able to transfer that knowledge to your knitting. The terminology is just there to help describe certain things. If the fancy terms don't help you, then...don't use them! Find another way to document and work with your own shapely self.

Sarah L:
I always thought being long-waisted or short-waisted was related to the proportion of your torso to your legs. I am tall, and have more torso than the average tall girl, so I have to adjust my tops and dresses accordingly. If that's not being long-waisted, what would you call it?

Sandi:
I would call that "having a long torso." Realize that "body shape" terminology can be used very inconsistently from one "expert" to another! (Welcome to the wacky world of fashion.) As for "long-waisted" being related to your height: I would argue that the length of your legs has very little effect on how your sweaters fit the curves of your torso! If you are in a wheelchair, the proportions of your torso remain the same as if you were standing; if your legs lengthen due to some sort of bone condition, your waist stays in the same place. If you are long-legged, you might wish to add a bit of length to your hems, but you wouldn't have to adjust the waist shaping because of your leg length. I like Katie's comment on this point best:

Katie H:
You can have a long torso and be short-waisted, or the other way around. The short- or long-waisted measurements only have to do with where *your* waist falls on *your* torso, no matter its overall length.

Stef M:
This gives me one (neck-to-waist) measurement in front and an entirely different one in back. As well as long waisted and short waisted I guess some of us also need front waisted and back waisted? And do I measure following the contour of my belly? Or straight up and down?

Sandi:
In this exercise, we were strictly looking at proportions rather than actual measurements; the tape measure was just an aid to helping you visualize. Again: Look at yourself in the mirror. Is your waist closer to your neck (short-waisted) or closer to your crotch (long-waisted)? You will need to know more exact measurements for fitting your sweaters once we get to that part of the Knit For Your Shape series—and yes, there, it is very possible that you will have a different front waist measurement than back waist.

Marisa L:
I'm also confused about where my official "waist" is.

Sandi:
Instructions on finding your waist and how-to-measure photos are here.

Bertha: Long waist, short midriff

Kelley D:
Okay, so I understood that the length of waist was the measurement from hip bone to rib bone....only an inch or less on me, but as much as 6 inches on other girls. So I am short waisted, but the other girls would be long waisted.

Sandi:
This is one of those "experts using the same terms for different things and making us all wacky from confusion" thingies. In truth, there really isn't an official term for this. I call it the "midriff length" but that's just my little terminology. So take a look at Bertha: She has a long waist, but a short midriff length. I, on the other hand, have a long waist and a long midriff length.

Laurie R:
You don't need to be totally bare, but if you're going to wear something, they need to be close fitting. As for the drawing...why not do what we did as kids? Grab a roll of newsprint or butcher paper, tape it to a wall (using as many sheets as you need to since those of us more generously endowed might need the wider width), and have a friend draw you. I guess you could lie down on the paper, but I don't know how accurate it would be since our bodies change depending on whether we're standing, sitting, or lying down.

Sandi:
I love it! And no, you do not have to be in your birthday suit. It is actually preferable (and easier) to do this in your bra and underpants, as these give you the actual shape that you "wear" under your sweaters. Just be careful you do not use a purple crayon on a painted white wall ;)

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Download Your Free eBook Today

What Shape Are You?

KD Sandi — Sun, 24 Feb 2008 23:00:00 GMT

Long-waisted Bertha

Apple, pear, banana; long-waisted, short-waisted... And that's just the women—we haven't even started to talk about the men yet! It's no wonder we're confused about body shapes. Seems like every website you go to has different terminology, not to mention a different sizing system. This can be extremely frustrating when you're sitting in front of a pile of beautiful yarn and all you want is to make sure you end up with a sweater that actually FITS.

The good news is that fitting a sweater is not like fitting one of those skin-tight sheaths at the Oscars! Knitted fabric has give and stretch, and knitting yarns have texture, sheen, and softness—all of which are quite a bit more forgiving than the stiff, body-hugging satins on the red carpet.

It is important, however, to know a few key things about yourself. One thing to keep in mind: If someone else tells you are a pear or short-waisted or whatever, realize that they are not the expert in you; you are the expert in you! Maybe they are right in their evaluation; maybe not. Some women go for years following the advice of some shopclerk or relative who told them something about themselves, only to discover years later that the advice was incorrect. Discover yourself for yourself.

Becoming an expert in yourself: For this, you need to be truly fearless and go stand in front of a mirror, in your skivvies. (Be brave! Be bold!) Take your friendly neighborhood measuring tape with you and a notebook and pen. If you don't already have your bust, waist, and hip measurements, go ahead, measure up, and write those down first.

Next, measure from your "neckbone" (collarbone) to your waist, and then from your waist to your crotch. Compare the two measurements. Is your neck-to-waist measurement longer than your waist-to-crotch? This is the traditional definition of "long waisted." Other way around? Short waisted! This makes sense if you study yourself in the mirror: The closer your waist is to your armholes and bust, the shorter (higher) it is; the further away from your armholes and bust, the longer (lower) it is.

...and long-waisted Sandi!

Take some time in front of that mirror. Study your curves. Experiment with measuring different bits and see what you discover—what is the width from one shoulder to the other? How does that compare to the measurement from one hipbone to the other? Shoulders wider than your hips? Or the other way around? Think about tracing an outline of yourself on the mirror: what would it look like? (If you have a really good friend or a spouse, maybe ask them to do just that— have them draw your outline in soap or wipe-off markers and see what you come up with!)

The final step is to see if you can sketch a schematic of yourself (whoo!). Try it! It doesn't have to be the best artwork ever, but see if you can get a basic sketch, with some basic-to-start-with measurements: bust, waist, hip. Neck to waist, waist to hip. Shoulder width. It's not the whole story, not yet, but it's a start.

Questions for you: What did you learn about yourself in this exercise? Any surprises? And most importantly: How does this exercise begin to help with your own knitting?

About the photo of Bertha: The pink yarn is at her waist, and the orange dot is a polite guess at where her crotch would be. Bertha is 13" from neckbone to waist; and about 7.5" from waist to orange dot. Thus: Bertha is long-waisted.

About the photo of Sandi: The pink yarn is around my waist; I decided I preferred not to have the orange dot on my jeans in that location (you understand, I am sure!). I am about 17.5" from neckbone to waist and 10.5" from waist to crotch. Thus: I am also long-waisted.

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.

Knit Cardigan Patterns From Knitting Daily: 7 FREE Knitting Patterns

Download Your Free eBook Today

Spring Gallery Q & A

KD Sandi — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 23:00:00 GMT

You all had so many great comments for the 2008 Spring Knits Galleries (Part 1 and Part 2)! As promised, for today, I picked a few to respond to:

We love Gallery Days!

Sara H.: After reading the galleries, I can see how imperative it is to "know thyself"—it's easy to see that a waist ribbing or bustline should be moved up or down a bit when a completed sweater is on a model, but I struggle with visualizing those changes for my own body shape. Definitions of "high/low waisted" etc. would be helpful.

Sandi: A high waist is closer to your bust than your hips; a low waist is closer to your hips than your bust! Mental picture: Visualize an hourglass, and then mentally move the narrowest part up and down away from the "exact middle" of the shape. When your waist is higher than the actual midpoint of an hourglass, you have a high waist; when it is lower than the midpoint, you have a low waist.

Judy L.: One thing I would like to know, is how to tailor the sweaters to not gap in the front over the hips. Some seem to be designed to be open, but I think on my mature figure, that would not be flattering. My thought was to check the hip measurement and knit the sweater to have an inch or two of positive ease through the hips. I would appreciate any advice in this area. Thanks!

Sandi: You've got it. That's exactly how to make more room for generous hips (or a curvy belly/backside). You gave yourself excellent advice, Judy!

There's a few corrections on the Mirabella Gallery

Charlotte W.: Sandi, Thanks for all your comments on shaping and adjustments for different figures. I don't seem to get the vertical dart above the waist if you are big busted. If you knit from the bottom up, wouldn't you want to increase more for those girls to fit in? Send special thanks to all the models. Great pictures.

Sandi: Charlotte, you are absolutely correct. Thank you for catching that error! Corrections on the Mirabella Gallery have been marked in purple. (Of course purple. What else did you expect?)

Sharon R.: Where da big girlz at? Seriously, I love the Galleries but we need to see Sandi and other generously endowed women!

Sandi: We big girls are here—and waiting for our camera moment! Change takes time in the world of knitting magazines, where the samples are often knit months ahead of press date. But I hear you. After all: It's sooo much fun to try on the sample sweaters that we all want to play!

Elsa X. and others ask: I do enjoy the galleries very much. A number of the comments made by Sandi about the fit are about things that you only find out after you've tried the garment on. How do you work out before you start knitting that you need to make this particular design an inch longer, raise the ruffle or so on?

Sandi replies: As I read through all the comments, this was echoed many times over! I also discovered that many people are mystified by terms such as "long-waisted" and "short-waisted" and so forth. So, let's go on an adventure together, shall we? During the Year of Fearless Knitting here on Knitting Daily, let's be truly fearless and take an honest look at ourselves, what looks good, and how to knit to fit.

Next week, the knitting adventure continues!

Every now and then, someone posts a comment that just leaves me speechless. Working in my little cubicle, it's sometimes hard to know how Knitting Daily is speaking to all of you, all over the world; it's always a humbling experience when someone relates how one of our family of Interweave publications has become part of their own personal story. This week, I'd like to share this comment from Stacey D.:

The Cobblestone Pullover

This past October, I knit my wonderful husband of 20 years the Cobblestone Pullover. He absolutely loved it, and it was the first sweater I ever knit that turned out just as I imagined it would. On February 9, we lost him very suddenly to a heart attack. One of the small comforts I keep returning to is that we had his sweater placed in his casket with him. I can never thank you enough for how wonderful your patterns are. You all at interweave have given something very real to hold onto at this time. Thank you from the bottom of my heart, Stacey D.

Stacey, that's what family is for. Our thoughts and hearts are with you and your loved ones. Thank you for letting us know about that very special sweater, knit for a very special man.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? I cannot tell a lie. I have been spinning. Knitting too, on the KD Secret Project, but mostly...spinning. I've been immersed in yarn making and yarn thinking and yarn plotting. Yarn is good!

The Knitting Tools That Lurk In Your Closet

KD Sandi — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 23:00:00 GMT

(This is not MY closet, Mom!)

Did you know? Inside your closet are some great tools to help you knit to fit. They're called "the clothes you already own." (Yes, I know, that's a very technical term, but we'll muddle through together somehow.)

You already have a collection of tops, tanks, sweaters, cardigans, and jackets, all of which can tell you a LOT about what size sweater to knit for yourself. Some of these tops are ones you adore, some are OK, and some you do not (or cannot) wear for some reason. The ones you love are probably comfortable and fit you well; the ones you don't like to wear probably do not fit or are uncomfortable. See: You are already an expert in fit!

Using Your Clothing To Find Out What Fits You

You'll need a measuring tape, notebook, pen, scotch tape, and a full-length mirror.

Measure yourself. If you have not recently taken your actual body measurements, now is a good time to do that, as we'll need your full bust, waist, and hip stats. Here are some links which will help you make sure you are not only measuring accurately, but measuring the right things!

Understanding Those Pesky Measurements

How To Measure Yourself

Measuring flat

Try stuff on. Pull out a tee shirt, a blouse, or a sweater from your closet. (For this exercise, it's best to use clothes made of knitted fabrics, such as tees, rather than those made of woven (stiff) fabrics. Avoid clothing made with lycra—you don't want anything that has to do an extreme stretchy act to be worn.) Try it on, look in the mirror, and ask yourself: How does it fit in the bust area? How does it fit at the waist? How does it fit around the lower torso? Maybe you love how it fits at the bust, but you think it is too baggy in the hips; maybe the waist is too tight but it is fine everywhere else. Make an entry in your notebook like this: "Blue cardi with yellow duckies on it: Bust—too tight; waist—OK; hips—too tight, because I always wear the last 2 buttons undone."

Mark the top while you're wearing it. Place a small bit of scotch tape on the front of the top where it sits at the fullest part of your bust, at your waist, and the widest part of your lower body (hips, belly, backside—whatever is the biggest around overall).

Measure the top. Change clothes, and lay the top (or sweater) out on a flat surface. Pat it smooth, making sure nothing is bunched-up or stretched-out. Then, measure it in the three places you marked with tape: across the bust, waist, and lower body. Double each flat measurement to get the full measurement around your body; then write the results down in your notebook.

Zoe makes sure I measure correctly

Compare. How do the measurements of the top compare to your actual body measurements? If they are bigger than your actual measurements, then that is positive ease. If the top's measurements are smaller than your body measurements, then that is negative ease. If they are close (half-inch or less) then that is zero or minimal ease. Which ones do you prefer?

Repeat this with as many tops as you have patience for, and you will begin to notice a pattern: Perhaps your beloved party or dress-up tops all have 2 inches of negative east at the bust; but your favorite sweatshirts have 5 inches of positive ease at the bust. Different styles will give you different information because sometimes we like to hang loose and sometimes we like to show off what we've got! The same is true for the different styles of sweater patterns: Some you will want to be loose-fitting (positive ease) and some you will want to be close-fitting (minimal or negative ease).

Be sure to double your laid-flat measurements!

Use your closet info to make informed knitting decisions. Get a knitting magazine (bonus points if it is from Interweave, of course), and open it to a sweater pattern that is a similar shape and style to the top you have laid flat on your bed. Take a look at the schematic; compare the measurements of your top to those of the schematic for that sweater. Look for a set that are a close-enough match to the ease-at-bust-measurements you prefer for that style of top. Compare the waist and hip measurements of the schematic to what you know you prefer for that style; see where you might have to make adjustments.

Once you've learned how to do this little closet trick with the basics of bust, waist, and hip, you'll quickly see that you can apply it to other measurements as well: sleeve length, armhole depth, neckline, and so on.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Secret Project Sleeves...well, the first one, anyway.

Understanding Those Pesky Measurements (And More Galleries!)

KD Sandi — Fri, 07 Dec 2007 07:00:00 GMT

Getting to know you...

Hi there...Sandi here again! There were quite a few questions regarding schematics and measuring, so I thought we’d take a little stroll into Measurement Land today. We have a few more galleries to share with you, but I think the galleries will be more helpful if we are all speaking the same language. So let’s start with some critical measurements which correspond to those either found directly on the schematic, or those which can easily be figured out from what is given in the schematic.

Finished Bust Size: This is used as the benchmark measurement for most knitting patterns. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS NOT YOUR BRA BAND SIZE. Mixing up the two measurements is the single most common mistake knitters make. (The bra band size is a formula used by the lingerie industry, not an actual body measurement.) To find your finished bust size: Take a flexible tape measure and measure around the fullest part of your bust.

Waist: This is often described as “the narrowest part of your torso,” a phrase which isn’t much help for the voluptuous goddesses and the very petite pixies amongst us. Find your hip bones, then wiggle your fingers up your sides until you find the natural indentation just above the bones. That’s your natural waist.

Tricia finding her full bust measurement

Center Back Length: This is a measurement that is sometimes mentioned in sewing books, but beware: there are several different measurements with similar names! Here on Knitting Daily, Center Back Length refers to the distance between your most prominent neckbone and your tailbone. Why this dimension? Because your tailbone often is at the same level of your hip measurement, so it can provide a useful guide to determining garment length vis-a-vis your torso length. Although Center Back Length is often not shown directly on a schematic, you can usually add together some of the schematic numbers to come up with a neck-to-hem number which you can compare to your own measurements.

Don't forget to include L'Belly!

Hips: Find your leg joint, and your tailbone. Wrap the tape measure around yourself at that level, and look down. Is this the widest part of your lower half? Wiggle the tape measure around until it is around your widest bits. That’s your hip measurement. NOTE: Many sweaters are designed to fall at your high-hip point, which is about halfway between your waist and your hips. Where you want your garment to fall is YOUR choice, so measure yourself carefully, compare to the schematic measurements, and adjust accordingly.

If you are gifted with Bellyliciousness: Realize that the widest part of you may be a bit above your actual hips, closer to the widest part of Lady Belly. Since the point is to determine how the bottom of your sweater will fit, you need the widest part of you nearest your hips, curvy belly included.

You'll get the best knit-to-fit results if you swatch carefully, measure yourself accurately (and often!), and study the schematics provided. (A willingness to rip back and re-knit when something isn't turning out right helps, too.)

Be a fearless knitter.

Knit for the real you, not for the model in the magazine or for some distorted image of the woman you think you are.

More Galleries!

We have four more galleries for you, some of them with customization suggestions by Katie Himmelberg, everyone's favorite assistant editor of Interweave Knits magazine! By popular demand, Katie has reviewed the Refined Aran Jacket, and you can read her comments on the gallery page itself. You can also find a listing of all the Interweave Sweater Galleries by clicking our new Galleries button!

NEW! The Galleries Index Page

The Refined Aran Jacket Gallery

The El Sol Pullover Gallery

The Sweater Girl Gallery

The Rosemary's Swing Jacket Gallery

Those are all the galleries we have left for the Winter 2007 issue, at least until my Gathered Pullover is done. (The sample sweaters are no longer available, as they are winging their way across the U.S. for their starring roles in the Interweave Knits Trunk Shows.) I hope you enjoyed them—let us know what you think!

Nominate your favorite patterns!

Don’t forget to nominate your favorites! Next Saturday, December 15, is the LAST DAY we are accepting nominations for the Interweave Knits Reader’s Choice Awards. We’ll announce the top ten finalists right here on Knitting Daily in January, after which you’ll all get to vote for your all-time top five favorite patterns, which will be released together as a free ebook in Spring 2008.

The CPH returns!

Next week, join me in welcoming back Lisa Shroyer, editor of Knitscene magazine, for a week-long adventure in modifiying the Central Park Hoodie for larger sizes. An extended, enhanced version of the original pattern—including an extended range of sizing—will be available for sale on Knitting Daily starting Monday. As if that weren't enough, Lisa and I are cooking up a little surprise along the CPH theme for y'all.

Sandi Wiseheart is the editor of Knitting Daily.

What's on Sandi's needles? Seven inches of the Gathered Pullover; a pair of socks on two circulars with partial heel flaps, and eight inches of the hood of my husband's cabled hoodie.

The Colette Pullover Gallery (Plus: The Question of Height)

KD Sandi — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 07:00:00 GMT

Debbie wears the Colette

The Colette Pullover

by Katie Himmelberg, assistant editor of Interweave Knits

View The Colette Pullover Gallery

The raglan lines of this sweater are complementary to any body type, as is the refined silhouette with waist shaping and a high-hip hem. The tall collar frames the face in a flattering way. I'd recommend choosing a size with positive ease (larger than your actual measurements) for a comfortable fit. The all-over color work creates a thick but not stiff fabric and you'll want some room for movement in this sweater. Remember to measure your hips, bust, and waist and check the schematic when choosing your size.

Veronik Avery is certainly a master of all the fine details we like to see in our knitting; look closely at the ribbed cuffs and collar and you'll notice the tiny cables enhancing the ribbing.

If you want to switch up the colors, again contrast is key. If you're looking for a bolder look, a simple way to add more colors would be to create colored 'stripes" of kittens; switch the kitten color each chart repeat. Just like the Henley Perfected, the Colette has a detail that you'll want to make sure hits you in the best spot—the waist! Be sure to measure for both the overall length of the sweater and the beginning of the waist shaping to best showcase your curves.

This sweater strikes me as something I'd pull on for a walk on a chilly winter night, and I picture myself wearing it with corduroys. It would be a nice rustic pairing and would certainly keep you warm and toasty.

A bit tighter than I'd ordinarily wear, but still pretty!

Does Height Matter? Here's Why Sandi Thinks Not...

Many of you have asked for the models' heights in our Knitting Daily galleries, saying that you can't really compare fit unless you can compare the model's height to your own.

I've resisted providing heights until now, because, well, let's think about it: long (or short) legs have little to do with how a sweater will fit you. Of course, you do want to make sure the overall style and design of the sweater are in proportion to the "overall you," but the critical measurements for determining good fit are the ones shown on the pattern schematic, those relating to torso length and torso circumference. The schematic is a really valuable source of information; I think a lot of us don't adequately respect the wealth of information provided by the schematic. Sooo, to encourage more Schematic Respect, I'm going to start providing a bit more information about our models' measurements as they correspond to the magic schematic.

For the Colette Gallery, note that the relevant measurements of the finished sample garment are at the top of the page; those are taken directly from the schematic (or, in the case of the hem-to-waist length, carefully calculated from the number of rounds stated in the pattern). Then scroll down to see the Interweave Gals wearing the sweater; notice that I was able to re-measure some of them so you can compare the differences between actual measurements and schematic measurements in more detail. The new measurements (including height, especially for you, Alex D.!) are only on the Colette Gallery right now; I'll go back and add them to the other galleries and other model photos as soon as I can.

As for our wonderful Knitting Daily models: It's pretty tough to get up the guts to put your measurements out on the Internet for all to see and comment upon. I'd like to say a huge THANK YOU to all of our models for being brave enough to do something that helps us all be better knitters!

Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.