The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

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Knitting Daily — Fri, 01 Jun 2012 21:31:22 GMT

Better Than Booties , but still a bit lonely Now that we know that there are over 69,000 UnFinished Knitting

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

katehar — Fri, 25 May 2012 22:06:11 GMT

Sandi:

I'm hoping you can help. The link to Part 1 of this article is broken and I need to review it as I'm using it as a reference in a paper. Would it be possible for you to send me the text from that page?

Thanks,

Kate (katehar@hotmail.com)

How The Swatch Saved The Day, or At Least, The Bonsai

Knitting Daily — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 11:02:20 GMT

Sandi's Wise Swatch Thank you for the hilarious comments, and all the helpful suggestions, that were

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

dogmom@tds.net — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:28:33 GMT

to KarenW - I prefer a blocking board that has tiny holes in it so it helps my fabric breathe whilst drying. As for blocking something doubled, I would suggest instead blocking in part. Roll up your piece until you have a portion to be blocked and the rolled portion which together fills your blocking surface. Use the spray method and block the unrolled portion. When that is completely dry, unroll and reroll so you can block the next portion. I've done this successfully with many larger pieces. It just takes a lot more time. You can block folded over, but only if there is only two layers, no more. This is a lot of work. To prevent mold, you need to turn the piece over and reset/reblock the next day, or day 2. On day 3 you need to refold so the outside becomes the inside, and the side that was up on Day 1 is the side that is up. Day 4 turn over. You may get a crease with some fibers. You have to be very careful with reblocking or your final measurements may not be what you anticipae. I find the rolling method to be superior to doubling. And, I would not double in the summer or when humidity is high as chance of mold is much higher then. I would also want the piece to be in a room with the ceiling fan running or another fan going to keep air moving, as this helps prevent mold.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

dogmom@tds.net — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:19:51 GMT

to LindaM@89 - block, I would suggest the spray method for mixed fibers. I've been knitting for 55 years and crocheting a few less years, and I weave, and have done a number of mixed fiber pieces. Treat the piece the way you'd treat the most delicate or most difficult to work with fiber. I would definitely not use the steam method on a mixed fiber piece.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

dogmom@tds.net — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:14:31 GMT

ON BLOCKING ACRYLICS: I knit almost entirely with acrylics because most people in my family are allergic to wools and animal based fibers. On blocking, it depends. The looser the twist in the yarn, the more likely you'd prefer to block. If I'm making an afghan or something where in I'm sewing parts together and they need to be the same size, block. Sweaters, if the finished knitted or crocheted piece is quite close to the final measurements in the pattern (or in my case, as I anticipated for my own design), and this is true fo all the pieces of the sweater, I will forego blocking. If just one piece is off, I will block all the pieces. I don't block hats but do block most scarves as there tends to be variation in the width over the length of a scarf. Small keyhole scarves I may not block. I usually don't block capelets and shrugs, but usually do block anything larger. Again on sweaters, I'm more likely to block an adult sweather than a child's sweater, but that is because the larger the piece, the more likely it is you will not have knit or crocheted it to meet all dimensions wanted in the finished piece.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

Alice Laidlaw — Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:08:33 GMT

I missed your article - The Basics of Blocking (Part One) - where may I find it on your site? Thank you.

proudgrammal@hotmail.com

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

LindaM@89 — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 13:18:39 GMT

I am knitting a throw. J. Flood baby blanket. Picked up lace edging. Alpaca yarn 90% have knitted the lace edge with an acrylic yarn 15% wool. The acrylic rows are between alpaca rows. Can this be blocked successfully? The color is perfect for the project . What do you think. It is still on needles, looks great now, will it hold a block and all match? What do you think? Help

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

jfurdek — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:05:02 GMT

thanks for the examples. I am looking for a book that contains a lot of information finishing details. different seam techniques, shaping, etc. also, I thought your comments on where to pin based on different characteristics of ribbing, lace, etc., were very helpful. I'd appreciate a comprehensive source of all of this kind of material. I am an accomplished sewer and designer of fabric garments, and would really like to take my knitting finishing skills to the same level as my fabric skills. although I have found your site very helpful when I have specific questions, it is also the things I don't know to ask that I am trying to fill in. thank you .

Poll Results II: Why Our UFOs Become UFOs

Knitting Daily — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 20:43:40 GMT

Better Than Booties , but still a bit lonely Now that we know that there are over 69,000 UnFinished Knitting

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

KarenW — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 16:01:19 GMT

OK I am going to start blocking my projects, the thing is I LOVE to knit in the round and when you knit lace in the round in needs to blocked, do you block the same way when its doubled? Does the botem get moldy from not being able to dry? So what I am asking is how do you block in the round.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

LindaE — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 06:29:49 GMT

How do you block a sweater that has already been put together?

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

Emmy LouC — Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:30:20 GMT

I am a new comer to this Daily whimsical, educational, honest stimulation and Much better than a lot of other daily somethings to read.

Have read your encounter with the Bonsai sweater. I try to swatch. I am absolutely afraid to wash and block- very fearful! I keep my sweater clean and try hard to wear a Tee under them, etc. My son, in error, washed his son's beanie that I had made him. He found it before it was put in the dryer. It survived fine. But that does not make me braver. Maybe I should send my son all my knit projects. I need to learn this necessary aspect of knitting but how can i get over the fear?

May I share what a niece of mine taught me about mistakes? if a man galloping by on a horse cannot recognize the mistake, it is not a mistake. That gives me heart.

Thanks!- EL

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

PetersenC — Fri, 10 Aug 2007 23:32:20 GMT

I've returned to knitting after a 30-or-so! year absence. I've been knitting the lace edging pattern that you posted here, and it's great. But I have no idea how to block it. I plan to make up the whole roll of crotchet cotton and am already up to about 6' of edging, with quite a bit left on the roll. (I'll edge bed linens with it when I'm done.) Does anyone have suggestions for a simple, practical way to block such a long skinny piece of lace? Thanks!

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

HeatherN — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 02:43:46 GMT

How different is it for blocking a garment knit in the round? I am currently knitting the Tea Rose Halter Top from the same issue as the Bonsai tunic. This is the second time I have made this and I tried several different blocking techniques with the first one but no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the scalloped edge to lie flat.