The Basics of Blocking, Part One

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Knitting Daily — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:43:40 GMT

Better Than Booties , but still a bit lonely Now that we know that there are over 69,000 UnFinished Knitting

The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

Knitting Daily — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:43:14 GMT

Ready to block! On Wednesday , we began our Adventure in Blocking with a review of the basic tools and

The Basics of Blocking, Part Two

Knitting Daily — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:43:14 GMT

Ready to block! On Wednesday , we began our Adventure in Blocking with a review of the basic tools and

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

irene — Wed, 24 Dec 2008 18:50:48 GMT

just finished a sweater using lion brand incredible ribbon yarn. should i block it? its a little short how can i add to the length

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

Petit.pomme — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 15:17:51 GMT

Hi Sandi, Thank you for The Basics of Blocking. I'm definitely going to get one of those boards!

I do have one question about blocking bamboo yarn: does it swell when it gets wet? I just finished the Lace Nightie pattern from Interweave Knits Spring 2007 using Southwest Trading Company's 100% Bamboo yarn. It looks beautiful and fits great as it is. I'm afraid it will get too big if I block it. Do you think I should? Any advice would help. Thanks!

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

Petit.pomme — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 15:17:42 GMT

Hi Sandi, Thank you for The Basics of Blocking. I'm definitely going to get one of those boards!

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

Marimoms8 — Sat, 27 Oct 2007 18:16:10 GMT

I am contemplating the Bonsai Tunic from Rowan soft Bamboo. I've swatched and washed it. The bamboo yarn bloomed and changed gauge. Have you found any change in the bamboo yarn you have used. I actually rewashed the swatch and threw it in the dryer on cool. It actually got closer to gauge on this second swatch. I'm thinking about knitting a smaller size to compensate for the change after wet blocking. Any comments?

Any responses to this comment? I looked through everyone and could not find it. mp-k

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

DotT — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 19:06:02 GMT

I was knitting the body of an alpaca wool lace sweater and was pretty disappointed with how it was coming out. It was bunchy and bulky and not holding it's shape. Then, I read your blocking article...I finished the body and proceeded to block it, not truly believing it would "save" my ugly lace sweater. I pinned and sprayed (and prayed). When it dried, I unpinned, and much to my surprise, it turned out gorgeous. It drapes nicely and the lace pattern and sweater are holding a beautiful shape. It's like a miracle. I'm almost done with the sleeves now and can't wait to block those too and put the whole thing together. Thanks for the article and blocking tips!

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

ClaudiaC@2 — Mon, 30 Jul 2007 16:59:25 GMT

For years one of the blocking surfaces I've used is a cardboard cutting board like sewers use. They have great grids, they are large enough to lay out an entire sweater for a broad shouldered man, and they are comparatively inexpensive. I use a wet blocking method, and I find they don't warp (at least not enough) to matter for quite a while. When they do after time, I buy another for a few bucks. Also, by refreshing them every couple of years, I don't end up with so many pinholes that it compromises the integrity of the board.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

BrittanyN — Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:39:47 GMT

Hmmm....do you have to re-block knitting like this everytime you wash it????

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

KarenH — Fri, 27 Jul 2007 22:48:49 GMT

Since I have some freshly spun mohair boucle yarn sitting on my work table, I'm wondering how to block it - and actually wondering if I need to "set" the twist before I knit it. It's going to be a small muff for my 3 year old granddaughter who loves pink. Hmmmmm

Karen - just down the road from Interweave in Loveland

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

AnneB — Fri, 27 Jul 2007 19:22:54 GMT

What to do with those swatches - or tension squares: From a knitter in Exeter UK - She uses them to wrap around an empty clean can of the correct size. Great for storing needles, pens, etc... in the can; pins and stitch markes can go on the side. She donates the excess decorated cans to charity. I, myself, am planning a quilt/afghan with mine.

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

MzMary — Fri, 27 Jul 2007 15:40:48 GMT

Sandi, thanks so much for bringing this subject to the fore. I think I understand how to block a single layer, but on a knit-in-the-round garment (esp. something heavy like fairisle), how do you 'stretch' the sides out flat. I can't imagine using pins there. Are we restricted to top-to-bottom stretching?

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

Janet — Fri, 27 Jul 2007 02:45:33 GMT

I have been looking for a lacy sweater pattern for a nine year old girl. Do you have any in you catalog of patterns? My next option might be to design one myself but would rather have a pattern using lace weight yarn.

Janet

re: The Basics of Blocking, Part One

Paula — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 21:40:45 GMT

Two questions: why do I need to block at all (other than lace)? And if I have a wool/acrylic or cotton/acrylic blend, should I avoid blocking? (I read in "Knitting Rules" that blocking acrylic is a no-no).
Many thanks for your input!