Inside Knits

Summer of Color: Inspired by Stitch, Sky, and Strand

LisaShroyer — Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:46:00 GMT

I just finished a colorwork hat for the Winter issue of Interweave Knits. I live in the South, in a 100-year-old mill house, and I haven't turned on the AC yet...but that alpaca, three-color hat on my lap was a bit much for June knitting. For the last few hours of work, I sat in my favorite blue rocking chair on the front porch, hoping for a good breeze. Whew! It's off the needles, blocked, and on its way to tech editing.

Speaking of colorwork hats, I just got something fun in the mail. Well over a year ago, I designed a Fair isle beret for Mary Jane Mucklestone's upcoming book Fair Isle Style (look for it from Interweave this fall). When the Books department is done with the samples, they return them to the designers...so this old friend just came back to me!

Colorwork has always been one of my knitting loves. Recently, with all my travel to Colorado for photoshoots, and with a few camping trips to fill my weekends, I feel like I've had a lot of color inspiration. Here's a sampling of my world from this past month.

Swatching "Everyday Gems"

arwilliams — Tue, 11 Jun 2013 12:00:00 GMT

One of the fun challenges for the assistant editor is coming up with fresh ideas for swatching our yarn review. I tend to skew towards the whimsical, like a color wheel to show off the hue variations in undyed wool (Knits Winter 2012), or Summer 2013's knitted diamonds. This season's review focused on free and easy silk blends. Think lightweight, casual-feeling combos of silk and linen, or silk and cotton, or pure silk in airy new constructions. A simple gemstone pattern seemed just the thing to highlight the underlying richness of these breezy yarns. Knit up a few to dress up your table for a little girl's birthday party, or work them in chunky cotton for regal coasters or potholders. Hope you enjoy!

Yarns pictured, clockwise from top left (teal): Elsebeth Lavold LinSilk, distributed by Knitting Fever, Classic Elite Yarns Silky Alpaca Lace, Berroco Fuji, Schulana Silco, distributed by Skacel, Shibui Knits Heichi, Knit One, Crochet Too Cozette, Manos del Uruguay Fino, distributed by Fairmount Fibers

Diamond Pattern

Cast-on 3 sts.

1: P3

2: K1fb, yo, k1, yo, k1fb

3: P7

4: K1fb, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, k1fb

5: P11

6: K1, k1fb, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k1fb, k1

7: P15

8: K1, Ssk, k9, k2tog, k1

9: P13

10: K1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1

11: P11

12: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1

13: P9

14: K1, ssk, k3 k2tog, k1

15: P7

16: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1

17: P5

18: Ssk, k1, k2tog

19: P3

20: Sl 1, k2tog, psso

Cut yarn and pull end through last stitch.

Yoga and Knitting: Learning to Loosen up with Mercedes

LisaShroyer — Mon, 03 Jun 2013 20:12:00 GMT

In this week’s post, I talk to designer Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark about heryoga practice, how it blends with her knitting life, and some of her current projects. Find more of Mercedes’ work and insights at www.mercedesknits.com.

* * *

LISA: Let’s talk about yoga. I’ve been practicing for 3 years—I started because I was dealing with stress that led to, unfortunately, some anger management problems. A studio near me was offering a 7 week intro series and, on a desperate whim, I signed up. At the same time, I started hiking in the woods, just trying to get some balance, some peace, in my mind. Three years later, the combination of yoga and the woods has changed my life and my body. Why did you start practicing and what has it meant for you?

MERCEDES: Similar to my first experiences trying to pick up knitting (which took over a decade and 5 or 6 tries before it really “stuck”), I had short stints of yoga here and there since high school, but only got into it more in the last few years. Once I found my happy place with yoga, which really involved letting go and just being in the moment, it's become a pretty regular part of my self-care routine. Learning to be ok with my body in the moment, not getting annoyed at any inflexible spots, and understanding how to accept even tiny moments of a quieted mind (some days, that can be mere seconds, and I'll take it) all came more easily once I looked at yoga as a complete practice, and not just pretzel twisty poses to conquer. I practice yoga to help me have time to unwind and focus my attention, and to look at my body in a positive light.

LISA: In one of your blog posts, you talk about how working on a knitting book—which is an intense kind of work, I know!—led you to set some important goals: a 30-day yoga challenge, eating right, and getting enough rest. How have things been going since you set those goals? What lessons have you learned along the way?

MERCEDES: I've learned so much! First, as much as I love to exercise later in the day, yoga early in my routine helped set the tone for my day. If I left it until later, I'd be much more likely to get consumed by the day's task list and blow off my self-care time. I also learned how to approach yoga with a beginner's mind, giving myself the ok to be a little awkward, clumsy, unsure. It's like putting yourself in a somewhat vulnerable state, so the knowledge and confidence of the instructor becomes so much more important! I think being a student, in anything really, helps me appreciate and learn as a teacher, too. Getting clear instruction and support is so crucial to a good learning experience!

By the time the month was through, I felt like I had a good idea of what parts of my daily routine needed to change to keep up some solid habits. I kind of flaked out on some of these early the next month, because I took a two week road trip and the daily routine went out the window! Now I've picked the daily habits back up, and I'm making sure to get some physical activity every day, whether that's walking, weightlifting, running, or yoga. It helps my sleep cycle so much! It also helps counter the long hours of sitting at my laptop or knitting that happen most days.

LISA: So tell us about the book. When, what, and what do you love about it?

MERCEDES: I'm so excited about it, but the subject is still under wraps! I can say that it is slated to be released around Fall of 2014, and will be full of garment and accessory designs for women, and a few stylish knits for the guys, too. The sweaters and accessories stick to my usual design aesthetic, built on classic shapes with great detailing, mixing colorwork or textures to create flattering shapes that are fun to knit. So far every project has been something I'd love to wear!

LISA: You’ve sort of fashioned yourself a warrior for brioche knitting. (For our readers, I had the pleasure of taking a brioche class with Mercedes at a knitting retreat in 2012. I’ve been knitting a long time, but this is a particular technique that requires good instruction to get a grasp of. ) You’ll be teaching three classes in brioche at Interweave’s Knitting Lab in October. Tell us what students can expect to learn there.

MERCEDES: A brioche warrior! I like the sound of that. Is there a costume?

There will be three brioche classes that I'll be teaching Thursday and Friday of the Knitting Lab event; a brioche basics class to initiate new brioche stitchers each morning, and then two advanced brioche options during the afternoon sessions, one on brioche cablework and one on brioche colorwork. I'd love to see a small army of new brioche knitters head home with new skills from the event! For the basics class, we'll be talking about the structure of brioche knitting, which is really unlike any other knitting stitch but is based on some simple stitch manipulation that is so much fun once you learn the tricks and tips to make it work. We'll also go over cast ons, bind offs, and some basic shaping. Once knitters are familiar with the basics, the cables and colorworks classes build on that knowledge to add some great techniques to create even more visual interest and rich texture using the brioche stitch.

LISA: Ripping out brioche. Dropped stitches in brioche. Should it be as terrifying as it seems? You also have a DVD on brioche…does it offer help for the terrified knitter in these situations?

MERCEDES: It definitely does! Ripping and fixing mistakes in brioche is admittedly...weird. I think more than anything, having a solid grasp of the brioche structure is the biggest help, but there are some tips in the dvd to make fixing mistakes less stressful.

LISA: Brioche knitting is a complex series of strands that makes something uniquely beautiful. Kind of like yoga…a seemingly complex series of poses, moving limbs, dripping sweat, and breathing, that comes together and makes a transcendent experience for the practitioner. You remember the adage that everyone was spouting a few years back? “knitting is the new yoga.” For me, yoga was the new knitting when it came into my life. Do you see similarities between the two pursuits in your own life?

MERCEDES: Absolutely, although not always in the “zen knitting” kind of way! I'd go through these times of really wanting to be super bendy and blissed out in my yoga practice, only to get frustrated at my tight hips and knotted up calves or angry with myself for letting my mind wander off into the stressful thoughts of the rest of my life. Similarly, I'd have students in my beginner knitting classes who would ask, “Isn't this supposed to be relaxing?” as they clutched their needles with what I dubbed “the beginner death grip”, and I could see they were having those same sorts of anxieties and worries about getting it perfect (and so had I, when I had first picked up the needles). In both pursuits, I'd end up making some great strides when I loosened up and let go a little, giving myself permission to mess up, rip out, or even just scrap a project altogether! It's totally about the adage, “Perfection is the enemy of good.” All of a sudden, I'd realize I really was blissed out, and the movements of yoga and knitting were pretty dang relaxing. I love the feeling of just getting to know a new asana or a new stitch, experimenting to see where my body or the yarn wants to go, what the options are. There's always so much to learn!

Meet Lisa (and her big Aran sweater), the new editor of Interweave Knits

LisaShroyer — Tue, 28 May 2013 14:28:00 GMT

It’s strange to introduce yourself to a large, anonymous crowd of people. I don’t even really know how to do so. It’s a lot easier to stand in a room of knitters and hold up a sweater and say, “I knit this!”. So maybe I should try to start that way.

My name is Lisa and this is me and I knit this sweater (Inishmore by Alice Starmore). Thankyouverymuch.

Okay, my name is Lisa and I am the new editor of Interweave Knits. I come to the magazine from knitscene, which I edited for about 5 years. I’ve heard a few knitters voice the concern that IK would skew young-and-trendy under my tenure—that the models would all be 17 and the knitting would be simple and the styling conceptual, a concern I attribute to my success as editor of knitscene. People believe knitscene was my personal taste. My kind of knitting, my style. But few editors are so lucky as to build brands that wholly reflect their personalities. We inherit brands and work to grow and maintain them. So it was with knitscene, which I love dearly, but doesn’t necessarily represent my knitting life.

The truth is, I am a Knits knitter. I may be younger than many in our readership, but I am not young in yarn--23 years of knitting and over 10 years in the yarn industry. I'm a technical knitter, thanks to a mom who was always at my elbow when I needed help, who spent her hard-earned spare cash on yarn and pattern books for me as a Gothy adolescent. I have faded memories of a playpen in a yarn shop where she worked. Late,r, I would work the booth for my parents at Stitches expos. And even later, I would work the booth for Interweave, selling subscriptions to Knits, the very magazine I now direct. I’ve now been with the company 8 years, in every position on staff, including project editor. The project editor manages all the patterns, edits them, and works closely with designers and tech editors to get an accurate final product. Before I was an editor-in-chief, choosing designs and palettes and planning photography, I was crunching numbers on raglan shaping. That experience colors my approach to choosing designs now, for sure.

In terms of choosing designs and shaping the magazine, I don't plan to make radical changes. I do plan to put my stamp on these pages, however—my penchant for relaxed and contemporary styling, classic design (hello Aran sweaters), streamlined construction, and wearable silhouettes. To me, knitted things are by nature casual and meant to be worn as outerwear. Stitch patterns should make for addictive knitting, charts should be intuitive and delightful to follow. Photography should display the knitting and inspire the viewer all at once. We just shot the Fall issue—this was one of our locations. I love outdoor locations and plan to use more in Knits as we move forward.

This introduction is meandering a bit— I blame the three-day weekend we’re coming off, in which I was able to really relax. My brain hasn’t quite returned yet. Forgive me. Yesterday I ran 7.5 miles through Umstead State Park, a lovely patch of verdant heaven here in my home, the Triangle area of North Carolina. There’s something about a long trail run, the isolation, the quiet that slowly, you realize, is not quiet—there are birds trilling, squirrels rustling, trees creaking, water gurgling over rocks. Your breath; your shoes unsettling pebbles. It is a meditation. A good run is surprisingly like a good hour of knitting. Right now, I’m working on a stranded colorwork hat for the winter issue of Interweave Knits. It is an intense kind of meditation, with three colors on each round ;) Consider this a sneak peek!

Well, I’ll cut off here. Please stay tuned to the blog and to the magazine as we move forward. If you're not a subscriber but would like to give us a try, check that out here. Cheers,

~ Lisa

Optical Illusions and Summer Knitting

arwilliams — Mon, 20 May 2013 13:00:00 GMT

Colorado is finally warming up, just in time to pick my favorite projects from the Summer 2013 issue of Interweave Knits!

If you haven't heard, Colorado was still getting snow up until two weeks ago! Ginevra Martin's Midsummer Aran is the perfect project to cast-on as the weather turns. In a unique cotton/cashmere/hemp blend from Lanaknits, this piece has everything you could want in a sweater for Colorado's crazy climate. Breathable cotton, soft and comfy cashmere, and a bit of hemp for drape and lightness. The sweater's texture is trans-seasonal, too. Columns of lace give the same visual appeal as deeply etched cables for a detailed summer sweater that has all the sculptural interest of traditional Arans. I love the muted mustard color, but I think it would be fabulous in a crisp, beachy white later in the season. Either would look great with a lightweight tailored pant.

Another favorite is Julia Farwell-Clay's Albers Pullover. Her intarsia technique doesn't just simplify finishing. The vertical lines breaking up the stripes add a whole new line, making a horizonatally striped sweater surprisingly slimming. I'm reminded of so called "miracle dresses," dreamt up by Stella McCartney to flatter the female body.

The dusty colors of Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton Comfort perfectly capture a beachy summer vibe. It would be fun to knit up another version in crisp black and white— think the classic French Breton shirt.

So, what are your favorites?

Happy knitting!

What's Your Spring Knitting Style?

arwilliams — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 07:00:00 GMT

It's the first week of April, which seems like the perfect time to talk about spring knitting styles!

I've never been one to complain about warm weather knitting. I love making accessories, and linen and silk blends are some of my favorite fibers to wear. But it doesn't take long in the knitting world to know I'm not in the majority. I've been doing some thinking, and come up with a list of three kinds of spring knitters, and a project from Knits Spring 2013 for each.

The Dreamer

For the dreamer, warmer months are simply a time to get ahead on fall projects. Cotton and hemp leave them cold (pun intended!), and they're happy to curl up by an air conditioning vent to start work on another wooly sweater. Luckily, there are several projects in this issue perfect for testing the waters of warm-weather knitting.

The Marian Tunic, for example, has the best of both worlds. Paired with shorts or boyfriend jeans, the Marian Tunic is perfectly springy, but a luscious wool laceweight and allover lace pattern will keep sweater knitters engaged. The Currant Cardigan, Matins Dress, and Smocked Bodice are a few other substantial pieces that are still light enough to wear at the farmers' market.

Marian Tunic by mandie-r-williams featuring leather shoes

The Butterfly

For social butterflies, warmer weather means less time trapped indoors and more time out with friends. Accessory projects that can be finished quickly, or knit on the go, are perfect for butterflies. The Trellis Scarf, Darjeeling Shawl, or Inlaid Lace Mitts are all beautiful small options. Bonus: these lacy knitted accessories are the perfect accompaniment to spring party dresses.

trellis by mandie-r-williams featuring black pointy toe flats

The Spring Breaker

And then, there are knitters like me who embrace Spring Fever with cool fibers and abbreviated shapes. Eva's Blouse and the Hashtag Camisole are quintessential summer garments- lightweight and lacy, adorable with slim pants (pastel, if you're feeling extra bold) and sandals. I like the fun combination of a modern yarn and sweater girl shape in Eva's Blouse, and the flirty crisscross back of the Hashtag Camisole. When you cast on for either of these, you can just feel spring singing! Both of these tops are perfect for a light afternoon of knitting, preferably on a porch swing with a cold beverage close by.

eva's by mandie-r-williams featuring tory burch eyewear

Any of these apply to you?

Happy knitting!

So Close to Spring!

arwilliams — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 13:00:00 GMT

The past few weeks have been unseasonably warm here in Colorado, and it's a sweet reminder that Spring is just around the corner. If the sunny skies weren't enough to get me looking forward to Spring, all I have to do is flip through the newest issue of Interweave Knits. The not-quite-released Spring 2013 issue is packed with lacy projects to turn the heads of even the most die-hard Aran knitter.

Check out the full preview.

One of my favorite pieces is the Matins Dress by Alex Capshaw-Taylor. With three different lace patterns, it's a real showstopper. I can't wait for you to see it!

The spring issue hits newsstands soon. Unitl then, I'll be hard at work on one last wooly hat.

Are you looking forward to spring, or do you have a few more cozy sweaters to finish before you're ready for warmer weather? Leave a comment below and let us know!

Happy knitting,

Gifts for Girls and Guys

arwilliams — Thu, 06 Dec 2012 16:12:00 GMT

It may be bright and sunny in Colorado, but the season of holiday knitting is upon us! If I were a more organized person, I'd be busily working up a stash of unisex gifts for spontaneous giving.

Here are two of my favorite projects from the Winter 2012 issue of Knits. Both show off one classic technique in a timeless accessory. Plus, they'd look great in masculine or feminine colors, making perfect choices to squirrel away for a last minute present.

First off, Charles D. Gandy's Hallgrim Hat and Mitten Set. I love the simple elegance of twisted stitches, and the architectural look they have twining across a reverse stockinette ground. I'd make these for myself in a poppy fuchsia, but they'd make a great men's gift in a rich brown or blue.

Filatura Di Crosa Sportwool in 1672 Dark Orchid Heather and 1676 Dark Taupe Heather, distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.

Next is Professor Jackson's Scarf. The classic houndstooth pattern is knit in the round for simplicity and warmth. Knit up in luxurious Koigu in a sophisticated teal and taupe, it has a richness that looks great on men and women. Personally, I'd go for a mushroom and cream or blush pink to add some lightness to my winter coat.

Koigu KPM solids in 0000 (cream), 2393 (mushroom), and 1101.5 (blush). Photos, Jimmy Beans Wool.

What gifts are on your list?

Happy knitting,

Steeks: Cutting the Edge

AmyPalmer — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 19:23:00 GMT

In both Interweave Knits Fall 2012 and Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts 2012 (look for that preview soon!), we've included patterns that utilize the sometimes scary technique of steeking. If you're itching to knit patterns from either of those issues, or are simply curious about the technique itself, we're sharing Eunny Jang's Beyond the Basics article on steeking from Interweave Knits Winter 2006.

From the late nineteenth through the middle twentieth century, masterpieces of stranded color work—Fair Isle sweaters, stockings, and caps—were handknitted with fantastic speed by knitters of the Shetland archipelago in northern Scotland. In addition to their considerable skill and experience, Fair Isle knitters often employed a shortcut that today’s color-work knitters can find just as useful: steeking.

What is a steek?

A steek is a column of extra stitches used to bridge two edges of knitting. Steeks let you knit an entire sweater in the round without reverting to knitting flat (back and forth in rows; Figures 1 and 2). Steeks can be worked between the right and left fronts of a cardigan, the front and back edges of an armhole, and/or the sides of a neckline. Openings are created by cutting along the center of the column of stitches—and sleeves, neckbands, and buttonbands are picked up along the cut edges. In preparation for cutting, the steek can be reinforced (but it can sometimes be left as is). When the garment is complete, the cut edges are trimmed and neatly tacked down on the wrong side of the garment, creating a tidy facing. Although steeks are most often worked in color patterns, if you prefer knitting in the round to working flat, you can use them in solid-color sweaters as well.


Figure 1	Figure 2

Why use steeks?

Circular knitting is desirable for several reasons. For many knitters, the knit stitch is faster to form than the purl stitch, and having the right side of the work always facing the knitter makes it easy to see the color pattern. When you don’t switch to flat knitting, gauge remains consistent. Seams are minimized or eliminated altogether; and very little finishing is required. The many ends of yarn that result from color changes in Fair Isle patterns can be hidden within a steek, eliminating the need to weave them in later.

What about unraveling?

The thought of cutting into knitted fabric is counterintuitive at best. Doesn’t the knitting unravel as soon as it is cut? Not when the circumstances are right. Steeking capitalizes on the reluctance of knit stitches to unravel from side to side. You can further secure the cut edges by choosing a “sticky” yarn (hairy animal yarns such as traditional Shetland wools felt so readily that the slight friction created in the knitting process mats the hairs together and discourages unraveling). You can also work frequent color changes and use a tight gauge within the steek, and/or you can use one of several reinforcement methods, such as sewing or crocheting.

How to work a steek

Although there are as many ways of working steeks as there are knitters, some general principles are useful:

The steek itself—the bridge of extra stitches—may be composed of as few or as many stitches as the knitter feels comfortable with, typically between six and ten stitches. More stitches should be used in high-stress areas and with slippery yarns, while fewer can be used in lower-stress areas and with yarns prone to felting.
The steek is flanked by one border stitch on either side, which separates it from the body of the sweater. This border stitch, always worked in the background color in any given round, provides a guideline for picking up stitches for sleeves and bands, as well as for seaming.
The steek stitches should be worked in a stitch pattern with frequent color changes, for example, a 1x1 vertical stripe (Figure 3) or a check pattern (Figure 4). Stripe-patterned steeks provide a useful visual guide for reinforcing and cutting.
Whether you use an even or odd number of steek stitches, you cut the steek along its true center. With an even number of stitches, the steek will be cut between the two center stitches. For example, you would cut between the fourth and fifth stitches of an eight-stitch steek. With an odd numbers of stitches, you would cut through the center stitch. For example, you would cut through the fourth stitch of a seven-stitch steek. Odd numbers are necessary for crochet-reinforced steeks, which are worked over the center three stitches of the bridge, while other securing methods are more easily applied to an even number of steek stitches.
Reinforcement, if any, should be applied as close to the cutting site as possible.

Cut along the center white column of stitches.

Cut between the third and fourth columns of stitches.

Where to place a steek

To incorporate a steek into a garment knitted in the round, cast on the number of stitches you plan to use for the steek wherever there will be an opening in the finished sweater: at the center front of a cardigan or jacket, and at the beginning of armholes and front and back necklines.

Plan to begin and end each round in the center of the first steek, that is, at the center front of a cardigan, or, for a pullover, at the side, where it will eventually fall in the center of an armhole steek. Hiding the join within a steek disguises the jog in the pattern that circular knitting creates, and eliminates the need to weave in the many yarn ends that color changes create.

Working a steek for the center front of a cardigan The steek stitches that bridge the center-front edges should be cast on with the body of the sweater, as the first few and last few stitches of the cast-on round. For example, if your pattern calls for 180 sts, and you are adding an 8-stitch steek, cast on 188 sts. For even-numbered steeks, the beginning of the round will fall at the center of the steek, with an equal number of steek stitches straddling the join. For odd-numbered steeks, the center stitch will be the first stitch of the round.

Begin the round by working the steek stitches in a checked or striped pattern (four sts in our example), place a marker, and work the first round of the sweater proper until you reach the steek stitches at the opposite end (the last four sts). Place another marker and work the remaining steek stitches in the steek pattern. Continue to work the sweater as established until you reach the beginning of the neckline shaping. Then bind off or place on holders the steek stitches, along with the other stitches that form the base of the neckline. On the next round, cast on for a neckline steek as explained below.

Working a steek for an armhole opening If you’re working a pullover, cast on the number of stitches called for in the sweater pattern (steek stitches aren’t added until it’s time to shape the armhole). Begin the round at the side of the sweater. Place a marker for the other side “seam,” and work in the round until you reach the armholes. Before casting on for the steek, put the stitches that form the base of the armhole, the ones you would bind off in flat knitting, on a length of waste yarn. For example, if you would normally bind off four stitches on the first row of armhole shaping for the front and back, then work the last round before shaping begins to four stitches before the end of the round. Place the last four stitches of the round and the first four of the next round (eight stitches) onto a piece of waste yarn. Because steeks are often narrower than the stitches over which they’re formed, the held stitches may form a slight pouch. Waste yarn is the best choice for holding unused stitches because rigid stitch holders may distort the gathered knitting.

Now you're ready to cast on for the first armhole steek. Over the held stitches, cast on one stitch in the background color as the right border stitch, then the steek stitches (usually six to ten), then one for the left final border stitch. For all steeks, the longtail cast-on is the quickest, least bulky way of casting on the extra stitches. When working with two colors, treat one strand as the tail and the other as the working yarn.

Work across the sweater body to the next set of armhole stitches—the four stitches before and after the next side marker. Place the stitches on waste yarn, and cast on as before for the second armhole steek. Continue knitting in the round, working any armhole decreases that your sweater pattern calls for while you maintain a striped or checked pattern over the steek stitches. On the last row, bind off all steek stitches.

Working a steek for a neckline opening A neckline steek lets you shape both sides of the neck while continuing to knit in the round. To place a steek at the neckline, work to the neckline bindoff. Bind off or place on a holder the stitches that form the base of the neckline; then cast on the extra stitches as for armhole steeks. You don’t need to add a border stitch at the neckline, the last stitch at each edge of the sweater’s neckline will form the border stitch.

When working in Fair Isle, decrease stitches from the main fabric on either side of the steek, right up against the neckline edge, working ssk decreases at the right edges and k2tog at the left to maintain pattern continuity.

Reinforcing and cutting steeks

There are several methods for reinforcing steek stitches before cutting, each appropriate to different circumstances. All of them require good light; patience; a small, sharp pair of scissors; and steady nerves.

Unreinforced The traditional steek, worked in sticky Shetland wool in a garment with a very dense gauge, calls for no reinforcement at all. The friction you create as you knit will mat and felt the fabric very slightly, stabilizing the area to be cut and minimizing fraying. Simply cut carefully down the center of each steek, working in a very straight line and snipping just a few threads at a time.

Crocheted Crochet steek reinforcements firmly bind together the sides of two adjacent stitch columns to hold the cut ends securely in place. The method is ideal for sticky or smooth animal fibers still at relatively dense gauges: the applied binding adds security even to yarns that don’t felt readily, but it relies on a firm base fabric to stay in place. Crocheted steeks are not suitable for plant fibers or for superwash wools, since the base fabric must have some natural cling.

Regardless of how many stitches are used in the steek, a crocheted reinforcement is worked only on the three center stitches. Picture the two legs of the V formed by each knit stitch. For a crocheted steek, a line of single crochet binds together each half of the center stitch with the near half of the adjacent stitch. The left side of the steek (with the right side of the work facing) is worked first, from bottom to top. Then the right side is worked from top to bottom.

Begin by turning your garment sideways, so that you’re looking at the steek with the cast-on edge on the right-hand side and the steek itself lying horizontally. Using a crochet hook of the same or slightly smaller diameter than the working knitting needles and a contrasting strand of the knitting wool, start at the cast-on edge and insert hook into the adjoining halves of the left-flanking and center stitches in the first row of the steek (Figure 5). Yarnover and draw a strand of the reinforcing yarn through the two stitch halves (Figure 6). Yarnover again and draw the yarn through the loop, creating a single crochet stitch. Move on to the next pair of stitches above in the steek (or to the left as you look at the steek sideways). *Insert your hook into the adjoining pair of “legs” in this pair, yarnover and draw up a loop (Figure 7). You'll now have two loops on your hook; yarnover and draw yarn through both loops, then move onto the next pair of stitches in the steek. Repeat from * to the top edge of the steek; your steek should look like Figure 8. Cut the working yarn, and pull it through the last crochet stitch to fasten off. To work the right half of the steek, turn the work, start at the bind-off row, and work single crochet through the adjoining halves of the right-flanking and center stitches in the same manner, back down to the cast-on edge.


Figure 5	Figure 6

Figure 7	Figure 8

When completed, the lines of crochet should slant neatly away from the center cutting site, rather like an open book. Gently pulling the two lines apart will show a ladder of the base knitting—actually the purl bumps of the center stitch. Cut carefully between the crochet lines, taking care not to snip into the crochet itself. The cut edges should be neat and very secure.

Sewn When you use a very-slick-plant or synthetic fiber, sewing is the only way to ensure that a steek will not unravel. Because sewing stitches have no elasticity, some of the flexibility inherent in knitted fabric is lost when you use a sewn reinforcement. Save this method for when crocheting will not provide enough security.

For both handsewing and machine sewing, stitch as close as possible to the cutting line, within one-half or one whole stitch on either side. When you handsew, backstitch with very small stitches that split both the knit stitches and floats (the strands of unused color on the back of the fabric). When you machine sew, set the machine for a small stitch and move in a very straight line down either side of the cutting line. For either method, make as many passes as you deem necessary, though one is almost always sufficient.

Picking up and knitting from a steek edge

Once the steek is cut, you can pick up stitches just inside the cut edge, along the purl channel between the border and body stitches, and work button and neckbands. In a drop-shoulder sweater, the sleeve stitches can be picked up around the armhole between the border and body stitches and the sleeve worked down to the cuff. Figure 9 shows a stitch being picked up at the edge of a steek; notice how the needle picks up the bar between the border stitch of the steek and the first stitch of the body, both of which were worked in the background color. In shaped sweaters, the sleeves may be knitted separately and sewn in along the line created by the border stitch. In every case, the steek flap will naturally fold to the wrong side along the pick-up or seam line. Once all finishing work is completed and the sweater has been washed and blocked, the steeks should be finished neatly by trimming away any frayed ends and tacking down the flap with a simple whipstitch or blanket stitch (Figure 10).


Figure 9	Figure 10

With every washing and wearing, the facings will full a little more, eventually creating a durable, hard-wearing finish on the inside of the garment.

Breacan Swing Coat

Kathleen Cubley — Sat, 02 Jun 2012 12:00:00 GMT

Project diaries walk you through one real knitter's experience knitting a project from our magazine. Stay tuned for more project diaries—and enjoy Amy Palmer's version of the Breacan Swing Coat from the Fall 2010 issue of Interweave Knits. —Eunny

Project: Breacan Swing coat by Gwen Bortner, Interweave Knits Fall 2010

Knitter: Amy Palmer, Assistant Managing Editor for Knitscene.

Yarn: Zitron Nimbus: #413 (dark grey), 11 balls; #414 (light grey), 7 balls; #410 (sage), 4 balls; #412 (teal), 3 balls.

Why you were excited about knitting this project: When Gwen’s sample came into the office, I carried it around with me for a few hours. I love swing coats! With the right cut and the right size, a swing coat is pretty much universally flattering, drawing the eye in and down and hopefully not too far out around the hips (this is where the cut and style come into play). The yarn is incredibly soft and lofty while also being light, so I get a lot of warmth without a lot of heavy bulkiness. And who doesn’t love a good plaid?! I was excited to brush up on my intarsia knitting skills in a way that mimics a true woven plaid fabric.

What size you made: 42½"

Your measurements in inches

Bust: 44"
Waist: 42"
Hips: 44.5"
Back length (from neck to waist): 16.5"

Schematic measurements for your size:

Bust: 44.75"
Waist: n/a
Hips: 54"
Overall back length (from neck to hem): 25"

Modifications made: I didn’t actually make any modifications. If I were to knit this again, I might do a little bit more dramatic waist shaping, to nip in a bit more and then increase around the bust, but I also feel like it fits perfectly as is.

What did you love about knitting this? I like my knitting to be relatively simple but not mindless, yet I also enjoy a little bit of a challenge and new-to-me skills. This coat afforded me all of those: Once I got the hang of switching out the colors, the plain stockinette was a breeze. The intarsia knitting technique required just enough effort that I didn’t get bored. This was my first knitting project with set-in sleeves, so that was both mind-boggling and incredibly gratifying when I finished them (hint: marking pins are your friend!). The larger needles were a bit challenging to manipulate, as I’m used to working on size 8s and smaller.

What would you note for other knitters about when knitting this pattern? Choose a size that gives you a little bit of ease on either side, no more than 2” negative or positive ease. The sample jacket was a bit too big on the model, so the coat hangs kind of funny in the photos. When I put the sample garment on in the office, it fit me rather well, but having the extra couple of inches for my coat makes it a little roomier, perfect for layering (whenever winter decides to show up).

Also, learn how to spit splice. This yarn was a little tricky, given that it’s a singles yarn and doesn’t have plies that are easy to pull apart, but I was able to divide the singles into separate pieces and splice them together. This will save you hours of untangling yarns as you’re working the intarsia: Simply cut your yarn into yard-length pieces as you go, and splice them together with the yarn already in use. It also cuts down on the number of ends to weave in when you’re finished.

What would you note for other knitters about when knitting this pattern? I wear jeans much of the time, and this jacket is not so tailored that it looks clumsy when worn with jeans, but it also dresses them up. I can also see myself wearing this over simple layers with a black pencil skirt, tights, and heels on those days I feel like getting dolled up.

Quick Mini Yarn Parasols

arwilliams — Thu, 10 May 2012 13:00:00 GMT

Hello all,

As promised, here is the short and sweet pattern for the miniature knitted umbrellas shown in our Summer 2012 Yarn Review.

These can be made with just a small amount of yarn, and work best with fingering to sport weights. For each umbrella, you'll also need a paper drink parasol. You can find these at the supermarket in the party supply section.

Samples were made using a size 4 (3.5 mm) 36" circular needle and the magic loop method.

Umbrella:

CO 40 sts using the Picot CO. Place marker and join in the round.

Rnd 1 and all odd-numbered rnds: Knit

Rnd 2: K3, [k2tog, k6] 4 times, k2tog, k3. 35 sts rem.

Rnd 4: K3, [k2tog, k5] 4 times, k2tog, k2. 30 sts rem.

Rnd 6: K3, [k2tog, k4] 4 times, k2tog, k1. 25 sts rem.

Rnd 8: K2, [k2tog, k3] 4 times, k2tog, k1. 20 sts rem.

Rnd 10: K1 [k2tog, k2] 4 times, k2tog, k1. 15 sts rem.

Rnd 12: K1 [k2tog, k1] 4 times, k2tog. 10 sts rem.

Rnd 14: K2tog around. 5 sts rem.

Rnd 15: Knit. Break yarn leaving a tail of a few inches. Using a tapestry needle, thread tail through remaining 5 sts and pull to close almost completely. Weave in end.

Carefully peel away paper from wooden spokes of parasol. Poke white cap of parasol through center of knitting. Stretch knitting to cover wooden spokes, using picots to hide spoke points and securing with glue if desired.

These would make a great centerpiece for your next knit night or barbecue. Why not write guests' names on seashells, and use them as place cards?

For more summer knitting, check out the latest issue of Interweave Knits!

Happy crafting,

Summer is here!

arwilliams — Tue, 08 May 2012 20:00:00 GMT

Greetings, knitters!

Summer is tantalizingly close, and we're ready for sunshine with 23 brand new patterns from Interweave Knits. The new issue won't hit newsstands until next week, but you can check out the preview here. I think we've got a little something for everyone, especially if (like me) your tastes flit between breezy summer halters, intricate lace, and cozy weekend cardigans.

Here's a behind the scenes peek at one of my favorite garments from this issue, Ashley Rao's Arrowhead Camisole.

Oh, the glamorous life of a Knits model.

Thursday, we'll share the pattern for the umbrellas shown in our Yarn Review!

Want to see more? Follow us on Twitter @InterweaveKnits!

Happy crafting,

Knit Gloves for the Ones You Love

kateg0762 — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 22:57:00 GMT

As a retired trial attorney, I am always curious about what people think and do during their time on a jury. So when I came across the Juris Mitts in the 2011 issue of Interweave Knits Accessories, I knew that I simply had to knit them.

First, the designer came up with the idea while serving on a jury.

Second, and more important as far as knitting is concerned, I had been on the lookout for a while for a fingerless gloves knitting pattern for myself and my sister Cynthia, who also lives in Colorado. These flip-top mitts were perfect!


Cynthia loves her Juris Mitts

I showed the magazine photo of the mitts to Cynthia at Thanksgiving, and she was equally enthusiastic about them. I went to a local yarn store the next day, avoiding the Black Friday crowds at the mall in favor of spending time wandering around the walls and bins of yarn. Since it was one of the elements that drew me to the pattern in the first place, I decided to stick with the Tahki Yarns Donegal Tweed yarn used in the mitts modeled in the magazine. The yarn weight used for the Juris Mitts is substantial enough to hold their shape without being too bulky in the fingers.

The directions called for two skeins, so I bought two skeins of red for Cynthia's mitts and two skeins of blue for mine. I decided to knit the medium size after measuring my hand as a reference. I made the right-hand mitt in red in just a couple of weeks of evening knitting. It was an excellent easy knitting project of one-by-one ribbing and stockinette, great for knitting in front of the TV or when I didn't have much time. When I got to the fingers, I knit an extra two rows after the pinkie for the rest of the hand before knitting the other three fingers. Then once all of that was done I tried the mitt on and realized that it was too big for my hand and would be too big for Cynthia's as well.

But the mitt was perfect in construction, and I couldn't make myself ravel it. Instead, when I knit the left-hand mitt, I made it in size small. For it, I shortened the fingers so that they ended just below the bottom knuckles. The longer fingers in the pattern limited my finger dexterity and shortening them restored it. I got the medium and small mitt out of one skein of yarn. At Christmas, I had Cynthia try them both on, and as I suspected, she much preferred the small one. I knitted diligently over the next few days and was able to deliver a complete pair-in size small-to her before the New Year rang in. She loves them, and they are now her favorite pair of hand coverings. She likes the flip-tops for handling car keys or grasping coins and can flip the tops on and off very easily.


	One small red mitt and one medium red mitt.

I was left with a single, lonely medium-size mitt. Since I had gotten a medium and small mitt out of the first skein, I knew I had enough yarn left in the second skein to finish the second pair of mitts. With all four mitts done, I have enough yarn from the second skein remaining for a flip-top for another mitt, but not the rest of a mitt. I think the medium pair took more than one skein, but the small pair took a little less than one skein.

The medium-size pair of knit mittens has been mailed off to a friend of mine who lives in northern New Jersey and is a real estate agent. He spends a considerable amount of time driving clients around and fishing keys out of little boxes. He also does a lot of yard work, even in the colder months. The flip-tops will preserve his dexterity for doing all his activities and keep his fingers warm when he is finished.

It is good that I love this pattern so well, because I will end up making four pairs of Juris Mitts! Get a copy of Interweave Knits Accessories and knit something that will warm the hands and hearts of your loved ones.

Now on to the blue yarn!

Kate

Belated Resolutions

arwilliams — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 15:00:00 GMT

The beginning of this new year has flown by, and I've neglected to make my knitting resolutions. Here are my top 3.

Organize my stash. A daunting goal! But one that I know will benefit my knitting for the rest of the year. My yarn stash has expanded considerably since I started work with Interweave. Carefully arranged skeins have exploded out of their Tupperware and now run rampant all over my apartment, making it mighty hard to stash-dive for a project. Ultimately, I'll have everything catalogued by yarn weight, with a few luxury skeins on display.

Challenge myself with colorwork. I'm a texture gal at heart. I swoon for cables, I go mad for lace, can work twisted ribbing on tiny needles for days. I'm not sure why I avoid stranded knitting. Maybe it's all those dangling ends, or the fear that my love for bright color will result in knits more clownish than sophisticated. This year, I'll make at least one Fair Isle project. There are a few tempting options in Vintage Modern Knits.

More warm-weather knitting! We've had a few unseasonably warm days lately, and they've turned my mind to spring knitting. I actually love summer knits, and am looking forward to experimenting with new fibers. No more pining for sweater season-- tricky socks, lacy tees, and silky camisoles will be filling my knitting bag this spring. First on my list is the Millefiori Cardigan.


	The sweetly retro Millefiori Cardigan, Interweave Knits Spring 2009.

Happy knitting!

3 for the Road

arwilliams — Thu, 22 Dec 2011 14:00:00 GMT

The holidays are upon us, bringing a question at least as important as whether or not to knit the man in your life a holiday sweater. What knitting should I pack for holiday travel?

For starters, I need a project for the journey itself. I am a dedicated airplane knitter. Officially, knitting needles are allowed on board American planes. Really. Of course, it never hurts to leave your 12 inch aluminum straights at home in favor of a benign-looking bamboo circular. That's fine with me, as the only thing I seem to have on my needles lately is an endless parade of hats knit in the round. For the plane, I'm thinking the Pointilist Hat from Interweave Knits Accessories 2011 will be perfect. The all-over bobble pattern has enough happening to keep me occupied, but the 6-st repeat will be easy to keep track of during the frequent starts and stops inevitable during travel.


Pointilist Hat, Nikki Wagner	Copenhagen Hat, Mary Keenan

I'm thinking the Copenhagen Hat, also from Accessories, will be perfect for relaxed knitting at home. The welting adds cuteness and warmth without fuss, and long stretches of knits and purls are perfect for chatting over coffee.

Last is a project I've been saving for a long weekend. An exquisite sampler of twisted-stitch knitting, The Proverbial Cap is finely etched with three different charted motifs. My personal favorite is "Forgotten Love." This might stretch my powers of concentration, but I think the result will be well worth the time. This pattern appeared in Interweave Knits Fall 2010, along with a detailed primer on twisted stitches.


How pretty is this?	The Proverbial Cap, Meg Swansen

Now, the only decision left is what yarn to use. Suggestions are welcome!

See you after the holidays! Hopefully, I'll have a few new accessories to show you.

Happy crafting,

Amanda