Galleries: Henley Perfected & Citrus Yoke Pullover (Plus Notes on Sandi’s Gathered Pullover)

Katie wearing the Henley Perfected

I asked Katie Himmelberg, style editor of Knitscene and assistant editor of Interweave Knits, to provide some expert commentary for us for each of the sweaters we have chosen for the Winter 2007 Interweave Sweater Gals Gallery. Here's what Katie has to say about our first two sweaters.

Henley Perfected

Designed by Connie Chang Chinchio, from Interweave Knits Winter 2007, page 47

View the Henley Perfected Gallery!

What better way to kick off the Winter 2007 Gallery than with the Henley Perfected—the most popular pattern as voted by you, the Knitting Daily readers. And for good reason! Connie Chang Chinchio refined the popular wardrobe staple and created a flattering silhouette that works for any body type.

I know some readers were concerned about the empire line not hitting them in the right spot; but do not fret, with a little planning, this is an easy fix! Get out your measuring tape and measure yourself from shoulder to under your bust (or wherever you'd like the division to hit). Now, check the schematic on page 74. The total length of the hem to armhole is given; to calculate where the division is, we need to go back to page 70 and subtract the length given to work in Stockinette from the turning ridge from the total length. Add your resulting number to the armhole length, and you'll get the measurement from the shoulder to the empire line! Then adjust the starting point of the lace based on your measurement.

Styling Ideas

You can see that the ladies wearing the Henley with negative ease are experiencing some gapping at the placket. In my opinion, this is due to two things: the drape/hand of the yarn used (alpaca/silk blend) and the notion of putting something large into something small. If you prefer a fitted look, but want to wear the Henley buttoned; try a more substantial button band. You could try a using a rib pattern or a crocheted button band for a very different look. I would probably wear my Henley with most of the buttons undone, with a cute tee peeking out at the top. It would also look great with a tissue-weight Henley underneath with those buttons peeking out! And if you find that the sweater is too warm, try a camisole as shown in the magazine. Even though this Henley is worked in a fine fiber, the overall style is still fairly casual, and looks great with jeans, cords, or a cute casual skirt. Or play up the outdoorsy aspect and add a knit cap and hiking boots!

Debbie wearing the Citrus Yoke Pullover

Citrus Yoke Pullover: A Lacy Contrast

Designed by Katie Himmelberg, from Interweave Knits Winter 2007, page 53

View the Citrus Yoke Gallery!

I wanted to talk about the Citrus Yoke (not just because it is my own pattern) as it has some similar design elements to the Henley Perfected. Each project features a lacy pattern on the top portion of the sleeves and body that could be a tricky spot for some knitters. For the Citrus Yoke, you can measure yourself in the same way, and decide if you would like the lace pattern to end earlier or to continue on the body and sleeves so that it hits you at the most flattering point. Another adjustment that can be made is the length of the collar; work fewer rounds before increasing for the yoke for a shorter collar. The simplicity of the lace design makes this pattern an easy one to adjust! You can also add waist shaping to the body, or work decreases on the sleeves for a tapered fit. The possibilities are nearly endless when knitting your own custom garment!

Thanks to Katie for her great suggestions on these two sweaters! And there are more galleries, with more great customization and style tips from Katie, coming up in the days ahead!

Progress Notes From Sandi: My Version of The Gathered Pullover

The Gathered Pullover from Winter 2007

I fell in love with this sweater the moment I saw it in Winter Knits. Like so many of you, however, I was a bit concerned about the placement of the central cable motif: right dead-center over The Ladies. I was thus very interested to see the sample garment and to be able to show you a gallery of folks wearing it. Unfortunately, however, the sample sweater was not available. So I realized there was only one thing for me to do: I would knit a sample Gathered Pullover myself, in a Sandi size, and then do a gallery for you using my own sweater on several different folks!

Knitting a sample sweater of course means that I have to knit it exactly as written, so that when I show it to you on different folks, you will know what to compare it to. Knitting it as written also means no customizations, which means I run the risk of it not looking great on me. But I think it's worth the risk, to have a gallery of that sweater for you all.

Besides, once the gallery is done, if the sweater needs customizations in order to look fab on me, I can always call on Cap'n Frog, and gather advice from all of you, and then we can all have a little Knitting Daily sweater do-over party. Sound good? Hope so, because I'm already 4" into it…stay tuned for my swatching adventure and how I picked which size to make.


Sandi Wiseheart is the founding editor of Knitting Daily. She is now the author of the popular Knitting Daily blog: What's on Sandi's Needles.


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49 thoughts on “Galleries: Henley Perfected & Citrus Yoke Pullover (Plus Notes on Sandi’s Gathered Pullover)

  1. I just finished the Citrus Yoke Pullover with several modifications, and it’s now one of my favorite sweaters! I used Auracania Nature Wool Chunky on size 9 needles for the lace, and size 8 needles for the body and sleeves. I added waist shaping to the body, tapered the sleeves, and also added 2″ of ribbing at the bottom of the body and sleeves. Thanks to Interweave and Katie Himmelberg for a great pattern!

    Lisa S.

  2. This was a really interesting post, especially given the drastic difference in fit between relatively similarly-sized women. I would like to know if there is any way to anticipate that a given body will experience trouble with gapping. The sweater gaps quite a bit on Debbie but not so much on others with really similar measurements- why is that? Is this an issue where you would need to compare the bust measurements across the back v. across the front and make adjustments? Does the schematic assume buttoning?

  3. This really is VERY useful information! I think you girls have found a niche in the knitting world that desperetely needs filling! Even if we subscribe for no other reason, the education we learn from these gallaries and your tips is SO beneficial! I have a business knitting custom garments for people and I don’t think you can ever know too much about how to alter and improve a design. I look forward to the other posts on this. Thanks so much!!
    P.S. I don’t know if it was intentional, but very interesting that after the silliness of last week, a vest pattern was put up stating the technique as “Crochet”… even tho there isn’t actually crochet in it. I like your sense of humour!!

  4. I am a bit confused about the Citrus Yoke Pullover. Is there any way to avoid the extra folds under the chin area? I notice this is a problem on all top-down sweaters. The gallery girls have the same problem when they wear it. Is there an adjustment for this? Short rows perhaps?

  5. I too think that these galleries are great, very informatative to see the same sweater on different body types. The henley certainly looks better on women with a higher bust. I noticed that the Citrus doesn’t wrinkle on the girl with no ease but does wrinkle under the chin on the women with more ease. Wonder if it is because of the no ease or because of broader or narrower shoulders?
    Keep up the great work.

  6. Thank you so much for continuing this series of galleries–I find it really difficult to choose a size when beginning my projects, so much so, that it can delay the moment of cast on for weeks! I generally go larger and am sometimes disappointed when the final garment looks oversized. Seeing the garments on people and knowing their measurements is helping a lot!

  7. I also would appreciate a tutorial on adjusting high neck sweaters so that they still have the high neck look but have a more fitted shape without the folds at CF.

  8. I also would appreciate a tutorial on adjusting high neck sweaters so that they still have the high neck look but have a more fitted shape without the folds at CF.

  9. After reviewing the pattern instructions for the Citrus Yoke Pullover, I believe I have discovered the answer to the issue of “chin folds” (also visible on the magazine model, by the way). The answer is that Elizabeth Zimmerman, as usual, was right. The garment is exactly the same for front and back, but the typical human has her front neck end a bit lower than her back neck. This is why a jewel neckline (the type that circles the base of the neck) is slightly lower (usually ~1/2″) in the front. I’m betting Katie tugged at the bottom front of the sweater right before the photo was taken (or she has an unusually swanlike neck).

    The best fix is relatively simple: add a few short rows to the back right after the “Shape Yoke” part of the pattern. A full 4 row repeat would be the easiest, since all future increases would be on the same lace round in front and back. This would get rid of 0.8″ of extra fabric depth at the front neck if you match row gauge as well as stitch gauge.

    Try it, you might like it. Since this is a top down, you can try on the sweater multiple times before the yoke is complete and decide if you like the neckline. I short rowed the back neck of a bulky top down last winter, and it worked well for me.


  10. the newsletter claims that the “Bryant’s Slipover” is crochet in Technique. I was a letdown, after i took the time to download it, that it is knit. Yes i can knit – but i was hoping for it to be crochet, got all excited for nothing. DIdn’t know where else to post my comment

  11. I too am wondering about the folds along the neckline of the Citrus pullover, since I was considering making it but don’t like these folds.

    I don’t really understand about shaping with short rows either.

    Debbie and Erin look like the Henley perfected is too small on them and that’s why its gaping open. Stephanie looks as if she is needs to adjust the princess line so it is lower on her body.

    Is there any rule of thumb about how much ease to add so that you don’t have to reknit the project?

  12. Sandi, your proposed Gallery is a super idea! I look forward to seeing how a few minor changes can make any sweater look good on “real” bodies, rather than just on stick-thin models (bless their hearts!). Shelagh in Vermont.

  13. I think both these sweaters as knitted only look good on Katie.
    The Citrus looks OK on Bertha because there is no head, with a chin to squash the neckline down and make those folds.
    If you have (as I do) a bust any bigger than Katie’s, I think the Citrus might well lead to “mono-boob” – I have given up high necks completely. At least the Henley’s placket creates a V and breaks the area up.
    As usual though, these galleries are proving to be invaluable.

  14. Ha…well, I’ve knit a few sweaters and they always looked and fit the way I thought they would, but seeing all the ways this same sweater looks on different women scares me. I like the way the sweater fits on Bertha and that is the way I would want it to look if I made it. I would not wear it as most of the models did, with another layer underneath unless it was a sleeveless silk chemise. Interesting comparison. 🙂 gina

  15. The galleries are great — but also troubling. I need to be able to trust the photo I see in the magazine, which begs the question: what is the bust measurement of the model for the Henley Perfected? I would never have guessed the top would gap so!! And in other galleries, I’ve noticed that set-in sleeves frequently drop way off womens’ shoulders (remember the first gallery, where I believe every woman needed to modify the bodice width?)… or wide/deep necklines end up requiring an under-shirt — often not a practical option for my climate. I’d like to see Interweave editors monitor patterns more closely to ensure they look appealing on and are well-designed for real women.

  16. I love the citrus pullover, and many of the other similarly high-necked pullovers I’ve seen this season. Unfortunately, I’m also one of those people who can’t stand to have anything around their neck. Do you have any suggestions or tips for adjusting out the high neck? Especially for the top down sweaters like the citrus pullover, where do I start?

  17. The difference in fit among the ladies whose bust size are simaler is due mainly to their arms. Notice how on Bertha who has no arms, the sweater is long and drapey, but on a real person with real appendages, the fit is completely different

  18. Are the women wearing the Henley Perfected all wearing it over regular clothing? Are the bust measurements taken with the clothing or without? It looks like the women with the most positive ease are also wearing the most layers underneath, which fills out the waist and the bust. I love this design, and its good to know that it requires the perfect camisole underneath to look its best.

  19. If a high neck isn’t wanted, then knit only an inch or half inch, or even just a couple of rounds before starting into the shoulder shaping. As was said before, being a top-down, you can try a few things until you find one that produces the look you like. And as for the mono-boob look, it’s true that a v or lower neckline is preferable, but you can make a yoked sweater work by moving the ‘line’ where the yoke stitch pattern ends; if you end it a couple of inches below the collar bones and then go into the plainer knit, then the eye is drawn to the top of the sweater and the face. If you lower the line to just below the bust, especially with side shaping, it can actually enhance an hourglass look.

  20. I agree with Cheri–the magazines should tell you what the ease is on the modeled sweater (the size shown is important, but its only half the information necessary). That info would be INVALUABLE when deciding on the size to knit.

  21. Katie rocks that citrusy wonder! and no wonder since she designed it herself. What a great fit. I’m almost tempted to try it, with a shorter neck for myself. I am also thinking of making it for my daughter as is – she has one of those swan necks like Katie.

    Thanks Sandi and the gallery gals for all you time and effort. My one suggestion is to buy a satin tank or silky top to keep at the office for gallery day tryons! I would love to have seen the Henley without so much bulk underneath as it is a delicate drapey looking fiber.

  22. Re: Henley Perfected: I wish the sample’s color was flattering to more people’s coloring; right now, I find it distracting and hard to evaluate objectively in the gallery, especially when it is layered over such odd and clashing clothing. I do think it looks much better and more elegant when it drapes over the body than pulled around the arms and trunk, as it is on just about everyone except Karen. Even then, I may have liked it more on Karen, and Katie also, if they would have worn it over something appropriate and that didn’t clash so horribly.

    Regarding Citrus Yoke Pullover: THere are no color clashes or inappropriate layering choices to distract from the garment, but that yoke clearly needs to be fit to the wearer, particularly for the distance between the underarm and base of neck, so there aren’t folds at the underarm area either. I think it looks like it’s designed for a long and slim upper torso, with medium to narrow shoulders and a long neck.

    Since the gallery idea was begun, I think it’s been quite informative, but I don’t think it has done any favors for the finished knitted garments, the magazine or the designers… not fair.

  23. I’m trying to adjust the numbers on the Henley Perfected for myself and am completely lost! Take the hem to armhole number (15.5″ for me), subtract the hem to turning ridge number (4″, so 11.5″), add this to the armhole length (8″, so 19.5″). So that would suggest the lace upper section starts at 19.5″ from my shoulder? That’s down at my waist, and can’t be right. What am I missing?? Please help?

  24. I absolutely love these galleries with the suggestions on alterations. It has been totally liberating for me to learn how to alter a pattern to better fit my body type. Thanks so much for all your great information and inspiration. Keep up the good work!

  25. Can’t wait to see how your sweater comes out, Sandi!

    I’m curious what’s happened to the regular addition of older patterns to the database– most of the newest ones from the past month are crochet. Is there a reason you’re keeping us waiting or giving us patterns from recent issues? (just curious, I don’t meant to offend.)

  26. While I appreciate that you CAN alter the Henley to put the empire waist under your bust where it belongs, my question is — should you. Should a large chested woman really make this style of sweater. It seems to me that this style would really emphasize a woman’s bust and for those of us with a larger bust (46″ circum. — double d cup), it seems to me that this would put so much emphasis on the bust that the rest of our body would see out of proportion. Can anyone offer thoughts on this?

  27. re comment above: if it’s properly fitted, it will put everything into proportion. I used to have a DDD chest myself and would have definitely loved to wear a sweater like this one (and I’m not one to overtly show off my curves). Make it in a darker colour or one that particularily sets off your eyes, so your chest isn’t the only thing to be noticed. Also, with the ‘V’ from the button band, it creates a separation, lengthens the neck and creates more balance in the upper area. The fine yarn and lace pattern is perfect for making a beautiful sweater without adding any bulk.
    The pattern will need a little tweaking for sure; extra width on the button band (as suggested), and adding some short rows perhaps, to ensure a smooth line but go ahead and try it!

  28. Sandi,
    I am so glad you are going to do the Gathered Pullover. It was my favorite design in the issue. I am built similarly to you so will be VERY interested in what customizations you make. Waht eveer happened to the “Bust Darts” instructions?

  29. I absolutely love being able to see the Henley perfected in several fit variations. What a huge difference a half an inch makes! thank you for a facinating post. Hope to see more of this in the future.

  30. Thanks for putting this gallery together! Though I wish you were there Sandi – my proportions are a lot closer to yours than these girls!

    Could you possible do a tutorial on how to alter the bust line on other documents? The bust is a significant area of concern for me since my measurements are 48″ around, DD cup.

    Keep up the good work, and I can’t wait to see the Gathered Pullover!

  31. Sandi, I love love love the gallery showing various shapes and sizes in the sweaters. The pictures help me understand what I might want (or not want) to do with a particular design.

  32. I wish the citrus yoke pullover was modeled on someone with a chest larger than 35.5 inches and 0″ of ease. I think this is a sweater that would look best with several inches of negative ease and a noticeable bust/waist differential. I wish we could have seen it on Erin.

    There were no pictures displaying negative ease at all, and having a large bust that would have helped me figure out if I want to knit it or not.

  33. Hi, One thing I think your stylist should take care to do in the galleries, is to make sure that the knits are placed on the models in a similar way. I think that the placement on Debbie is a bit misleading, because it is not pulled up on her shoulders, and neatened up in its sleeve length and torso length, so it looks more pulled across her chest than it really is. AND, just to be picky, I have noticed this a number of times in the magazine shots themselves–sometimes to the detriment of the looks of the garment! Why don’t you check up on this?

  34. I LOVED reading the post on the Henley Perfected and Citrus Yoke Pullover; seeing these sweaters on real people (other than models!) really encourages me to knit them–I don’t know why, they look more functional and practical, I guess. And I appreciate the extra notes about placement lines…

  35. I LOVED reading the post on the Henley Perfected and Citrus Yoke Pullover; seeing these sweaters on real people (other than models!) really encourages me to knit them–I don’t know why, they look more functional and practical, I guess. And I appreciate the extra notes about placement lines…

  36. I love the gallery but really want to see more pictures of women with ‘bodacious curves’. It is hard to visualize some of the patterns in a larger size. I guess that’s what all the talk about ease is all about.