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Knitted Accessories

Admin — Wed, 06 Jun 2012 12:00:00 GMT


	The Side Slip Cloche from Boutique Knits by Laura Irwin

"The only thing that separates us from the animals is our ability to accessorize."
—Clairee, played by Olympia Dukakis, in the movie Steel Magnolias

This well-known quote is funny, but true! We love our accessories, and as knitters, we love to make them ourselves. If sweaters are the staples of a knitter's wardrobe, knitted accessories are the embellishment. Knit accessories are the fun in your wardrobe-and in your knitting bag.

I like to have an accessory project on the needles all the time so I can take a break from sweater knitting, and accessories travel better than big sweater projects.

Whether it's a knitted scarf, knitted mitts, or a hat knitting pattern, we love our accessory knitting! The bonus is that since these projects are small, it's fun to try a new technique, such as a lace scarf, a cabled hat, or some Fair Isle Mitts.

Many knitted accessories are one-skein projects, too, and in today's economy, we could all use a couple of one- or two-skein projects, right? You can also "shop your stash" to find yarn for many of these patterns.

Below are some wonderful knitted accessory patterns and some knitting techniques that will help you make them!

The Perfect Cabled Hat Knitting Pattern


Snowball Hat

Shop Knitted Accessory Resources

Knitscene Accessories 2012

144 pages of 35 knitted accessories and knitting how-to articles.

LEARN MORE

Interweave Knits Accessories 2011

40 accessories patterns to knit including socks, scarves, hats, & mittens!

LEARN MORE

Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts 2011

Delight in quick knits for men, women, children, and the home.

LEARN MORE

Download the
Mariposa Mitts pattern
______________

Shop All Knitted Accessory Patterns!

The Snowball Hat is such a cute hat, and a wonderful first cable project. It can be knitted as a beanie or with a giant pom-pom "snowball" on top.

All you need to know is how to knit in the round and how to knit rop cables. If you need a refresher course, here's a quick tutorial:

The Basic Cable

The most familiar type of cable is a simple rope cable. A rope cable is worked over a set number of stitches that are (usually) worked in a straight column, without moving over background stitches to the right or left.

The cable strands are most often made of stockinette stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side), which tends to come forward when viewing the right side of the work. The background is usually worked in reverse stockinette stitch (purl on right side, knit on wrong side), which tends to recede when viewed from the right side. The flanking areas of reverse stockinette stitch make the central stockinette-stitch cable pop forward in high relief.

The actual cabling in a rope cable couldn't be simpler. At predetermined intervals, and usually while working a right-side row, half the strand stitches are placed out of sequence before knitting. Cable instructions and chart keys often direct you to do something like "place two stitches onto a cable needle, hold in front, knit two, knit two from the cable needle." This means that you use a third, smaller cable needle to hold half the strand's stitches out of the way, knit the former second half of the strand first, then knit the former first half of the strand. Doing so switches the order of the two halves, making them pass over one another and creating a cable crossing.

If you hold the first half of the stitches to the front of the work while you knit the second half, you will have a left cross, where the first half of the cable passes over the second.

If you hold the first half of the stitches to the back of the work while knitting the second half, you will have a right cross, where the first half of the cable passes under the second. Rope cables typically repeat the same cross direction over and over for a continuous twist that resembles a rope.

Source: Eunny Jang, Interweave Knits, Winter 2011

The Perfect Lace Scarf Knitting Pattern

The Spectrum Scarf is a great beginning lace project. Color blending with multiple strands of ultra fine—and ultra soft—alpaca yarn shades this lacy scarf achieved with a simple one-row lace repeat.

Whether you're a beginning lace knitter or an advanced lace knitter, here's a fabulous technique that will get you back on track if you make a mistake, which is so easy to do in lace knitting!

How to Use a Lifeline


	Spectrum Scarf

A lifeline is a temporary thread inserted through a row of stitches that serves as a checkpoint if you need to rip out and redo several rows. Here's how to make a lifeline:

1) Decide on a lifeline row. A good choice is an unpatterned "rest row," which is defined as a plain knit or purl row that usually occurs at the beginning or end of a pattern repeat.

2) After completing the designated row, thread a fine, smooth thread (crochet thread or embroidery floss works well) in a contrasting color onto a tapestry needle and run it through the bottom of each stitch on the needle, but not through any markers. Pull the lifeline thread out on each side of the row, leaving tails at least 6" hanging down on each side. When you resume knitting, be careful not to knit the lifeline into the new stitches you make.

With luck, you'll never need to use the lifeline. But if you discover a mistake, remove the knitting needle and ravel down to the lifeline thread. With a smaller size knitting needle, pick up stitches along the lifeline thread by inserting the needle tip through each stitch held by the lifeline; follow the lifeline thread to pick up all the stitches in the original marked row so that they are mounted on the needle properly. Do not remove the lifeline. Count the stitches to be sure that you have the number you should have on the designated lifeline row. Then resume knitting with the original size needles.

When beginning a lace pattern, some knitters place lifelines between each lace repeat until they've become comfortable with the pattern.

Preventing Mistakes

Practicing a few good habits will make it easy to work even the trickiest lace pattern.

• Be sure that you can easily read and keep your place in the instructions. Enlarge charts and, if necessary, transcribe texts or charts into terminology or symbols that work for you.

• Use a magnetic strip, ruler, or Post-it just above the row you are working. Doing so helps your eyes focus on that row while it allows you to check previously knitted rows as a reference point.

• Create good working conditions: increase lighting, minimize distractions, and avoid knitting when you are tired.

• Check your work often: count stitches, use markers liberally, place lifelines, and visually compare your knitting against any available charts and sample photographs.

• Read the pattern out loud as you work through the lace repeat the first few times. Simultaneous seeing, hearing, and doing can be helpful.

Source: Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer, Interweave Knits, Summer 2006

The Perfect Fair Isle Mitten Knitting Pattern


White Witch Mittens

Mittens are wonderful knitted accessories, and they make perfect gifts. Try your hand a Fair Isle knitting with the White Witch Mittens. And if you need a little tutorial on Fair Isle knitting, here you go!

Fair Isle

Fair Isle, or color stranding, is the technique of multi-colored knitting in which yarns that are not in use are carried loosely across the back of the work. In traditional Fair Isle, just two colors are used per row. The colors are changed frequently, and diagonal pattern lines dominate over vertical lines to distribute the tension more evenly over the knitted fabric.

Fair Isle is worked most efficiently if the two yarns are help simultaneously; one in the left and worked in the Continental method, the other in the right hand and worked in the English method. Although this may feel awkward at first, it is well worth the effort because it allows for uniform stitches and rapid knitting.

Preventing Tangles
You can prevent the two balls of yarn from tangling around each other as you knit by always stranding the right-hand yarn over the left-hand yarn and the left-hand under the right-hand yarn. Do not twist the strands on the back.

Preventing Puckers
In multicolor knitting, the stitches will pucker if the strands are pulled too tightly across the back. To prevent this, spread the stitches on the right-hand needle to their approximate gauge each time you change colors, rather than allowing them to scrunch up near the tip of the needle.

Source: The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square, Interweave, 2006

Resources

Get the original Interweave Knits Accessories 2009 issue, now available for digital download!

Interweave Knits Accessories is a special issue with up to 60+ projects. Filled with accessories galore to warm your extremities--hats, scarves and wraps, socks, mitts and gloves, this is a compilation of our favorite knitting accessories. These favorite projects are both seasonal and year-round, timeless in design, and wearable for young and old alike. And there's more: From simple how-to get started techniques through quick finishing tips, this issue will be a handy reference for great accessories now and for many years to come.

Download Digital Edition

Find a knitted accessory for any occasion (or no occasion at all!) right here at Knitting Daily. In addition to patterns, we also offer expert tips and ideas to help you make your knitted accessories uniquely you!

Knitting Techniques

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 07 May 2012 12:00:00 GMT

Anyone can learn to knit. Most people learn the knit stitch first, and then the purl stitch. Then they might learn how to cast on and bind off, increase and decrease, cable and seed stitch, and so on.

All of these things are knitting techniques, and knitters are constantly learning. With every project there are more and more techniques to learn, such as shaping, seaming, or even steeking, in which you cut your knitwear to make a sweater a cardigan or to open armholes or to insert a heel in a sock.

Read on for a few fun knitting techniques for more successful knitting!

Tracking Needle Size and Cable Rows

Tracking Your Project Needle Size: Take a very long piece of contrasting scrap yarn and tie the exact number of knots to represent the size of your knitting needle.

If you remove your needle for use on another project, you will always know what size needle you were working with on the unfinished project.



Tracking needle size		Tracking cable rows

Learn Knitting Techniques from
the Knitting Daily Shop

Knitting Daily Workshop:
Getting Started Knitting
Basics and Beyond with
Eunny Jang
WORKSHOP DVD

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Knitting Daily TV
Episode 403:
Knit & Purl Magic
VIDEO DOWNLOAD

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Knitting Daily Workshop:
Brioche Knitting Basics
with Mercedes
Tarasovich-Clark
WORKSHOP DVD

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A Step-By-Step Guide
to Knitting Cables with
4 Staff Favorite Patterns
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Tracking Your Cable Rows: Tie some scrap yarn with the cast-on yarn tail when working a cable.

Take the scrap yarn and flip it over the needle every four rows—it looks like a running stitch up the project. You will always know what row of the cable you're on as you only have to count four rows.

Why do it every four rows? Because so many cables are based on a multiple of four rows.

Source: Knitting Daily TV, Getting Started segments

Unknitting

Unknitting-sometimes called "tinking" ("tink" is "knit" spelled backward)—is like seeing a reverse. Slow-motion film of knitting errors as they happen. Undoing the mistake shows what went wrong, giving us the chance to learn.

Unknitting moves stitches in reverse, undoing each new stitch from the right needle and replacing the old stitch on the left. If you're at the end of a row, leave the full right needle in your right hand, exactly the opposite of what you'd do normally. If you're in the middle of a row, find your working yarn and hold the needle it's attached to in your right hand. The working yarn comes off the back of knit stitches and off the front for purls.

The following illustrations show both unknitting and unpurling; the process is basically the same for both techniques.



Figure 1. Unknit Step 2		Figure 2. Unpurl Step 2

Figure 3. Unpurl Step 3		Figure 4. Unknit Step 4

1. The trick to unknitting is to place the left needle tip into the stitch lying right underneath the live stitch next to the tip of your right needle. To do this, pull on the working yarn; the opening created in your stitches points to exactly where to place your left needle.

2. Place your left needle in the opening from front to back (Figures 1 and 2). This captures the stitch from the previous row without twisting it.

3. Slip this stitch from right needle to left needle. Pull the working yarn to unravel the stitch. The old stitch now sits on the left needle-one stitch has been unknitted (Figures 3 and 4).

4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until you arrive at the mistake, and then fix it!

You'll use this knitting technique all the time!

Source: Knit Fix by Lisa Karkus, Interweave Press, 2006

Blocking Basics

	Blocking Tips
	• Experiment with blocking your gauge swatch before you block an actual knitted piece. • Do not rub, twist, or wring a handknit. Doing so may distort the stitches beyond correction. • Before blocking, weave in all loose ends-the blocking process will help secure the ends in place. • It is preferable to block individual pieces before sewing them together. Blocking makes the sewing process easier and the results of blocking are more consistent when you work with a single layer of fabric. You can block a garment that has been sewed together, but the results may not be as good. • Many experts warn against blocking ribbing, which will lose its natural elasticity if blocked while stretched open. However, ribbing can be successfully blocked if you squeeze it into its most contracted state (so that all the purl stitches recede behind the knit stitches) before you apply moisture. • Allow the blocked handknit to air-dry completely before moving it.

Blocking takes your knitting from good to great. Add the finishing touches using these wet-blocking techniques.

By definition wet-blocking uses more moisture than steam-blocking, and can be used to stretch and enlarge a knitted piece (although loosely knitted pieces stretch more easily than tightly knitted ones, and any extra inches you gain in width, you may lose in length). There are three degrees of wet-blocking, depending on the amount of moisture added to the knitted fabric.

Spray-blocking is the mildest form of wet-blocking. It works equally well for all fibers—although silks and synthetics require more wetness than wool-and it allows for total control over temperature, dampness, and finished texture because you are not restricted to the temperature and amount of steam that comes out of your iron, and you can gently pat and shape the piece with your hands while you work. Pin the handknit to shape right side up on a padded surface placed away from direct sun or heat. Fill a spray bottle with cool tap water and spritz a fine, even mist over the piece. Use your hands to gently pat the moisture into the handknit, if desired, but be careful not to flatten any textured stitches.

Wet-wrapping imparts moisture deeper into the fibers and is appropriate for all types of yarn, especially cotton and acrylic, which are less resilient than wool and require more moisture penetration to reshape stitches. To wet-wrap, thoroughly soak a large bath towel in water, then put it through the spin cycle of a washing machine to remove excess moisture. Place the handknit on top of the towel, then roll the two together jelly-roll fashion. Let the bundle sit until the handknit is completely damp, overnight if necessary. Unroll the towel, remove the handknit, and pin it out to measurements on a padded surface away from direct sun or heat.

Immersion imparts moisture thoroughly through the fibers and allows complete reshaping. It is appropriate for all fiber types, and particularly ideal for heavily ribbed or cabled fabrics, or fabrics that have taken on a biased slant during knitting. It is also the method to use after washing a handknit. To immerse a handknit, turn it inside out and soak it in a basin of lukewarm water for about twenty minutes, or until thoroughly wet, gently squeezing water through the piece if necessary. Drain the water, carry the wet handknit in a bundle to the washing machine, and put it through the spin cycle (or roll it in dry towels) to remove excess moisture. Do not twist or wring the handknit. Shape the piece right side up on a padded surface, using pins (and blocking wires) as necessary.

Resources

The new and easy-to-download Knit Fix eBook puts together all the guidance novice knitters need to become independent and all the advice experienced knitters need to take their projects to the next level.

Also available in a print edition

The Knitter's Companion eBook or print edition by Vicki Square

Fearless Knitting Workbook: The Step-by-Step Guide to Knitting Confidence by Jennifer E. Seiffert

Knit to be Square: Domino Designs to Knit and Felt by Vicki Square

Interweave Presents the Harmony Guides: 101 Stitches to Knit

Knitted Cardigans

Admin — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 13:00:00 GMT


	The Nantucket Jacket by Norah Gaughan

A Short History of the Cardigan Sweater

The cardigan sweater is an essential part of the wardrobe for both men and women, and it has been for centuries. Cardigans are open-front sweaters, secured with buttons, zippers, ties, or simply left open.

The cardigan is named after Major General James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, a British earl who fought in the Crimean War. He and his troops wore knitted jackets, a style that forever after has been known as the cardigan.

From Coco Chanel to Mr. Rogers, the cardigan sweater has been popular through the years; it's even a favorite of First Lady Michele Obama. She's often photographed wearing sweater sets, which became popular in the 1950s. A sweater set is a small gauge cardigan worn over a matching tee or tank. At the same time in U.S. history, collegiate men wore cardigan letter sweaters, denoting their membership on a college sports team.

There are many patterns for knitted cardigans, and many knitting techniques specific to making them.

Button Bands

Button bands are an important part of a knit cardigan. Some are ribbed, some use a folded hem, but every cardigan has a button (or zipper, snap, or eyelet) band.



Picking Up Stitches Along Shaped Edges *Illustration The Knitter's Handy Book of Knitting Patterns* by Ann Budd, Interweave, 2004.**

In many cardigan knitting patterns, shoulder seams are joined and stitches are picked up from one hem, around the neck, and down to the other hem.

Picking up stitches (pictured left) is an important skill to master when knitting cardigans. Here is a helpful excerpt from The Knitter's Handy Book of Knitting Patterns by Ann Budd, Interweave, 2004:

"With right side facing and working from right to left, insert tip of needle between last and second-to-last stitches, wrap yarn around needle, and pull it through. Pick up and knit about three stitches for every four rows, adjusting as necessary so that picked-up edge lays flat."

Some patterns might say "pick up and knit ____ number of stitches" and some might simply say "pick up ___ number of stitches." It's basically the same thing; "pick up" is the part of the operation where you put your needle into the knitted piece, and "knit" is the part where you wrap your yarn around your needle and bring it through to form a stitch.

Here are two ways to pick up stitches. When you're working on a knit cardigan sweater, you'll probably use the method at left most often.

Picking Up Stitches Along Bind-Off or Cast-On Edges

With the right side facing and working from right to left, insert the tip of the needle into the center of the stitch below the bind-off or cast-on edge (Figure 1), wrap yarn around needle, and pull it through (Figure 2). Pick up one stitch for every bound-off stitch. (Illustrations and instructions from The Knitter's Handy Book of Knitting Patterns by Ann Budd, Interweave, 2004.)

Some knitted cardigan patterns call for knitting the button bands separately and seaming them to the sweater. And some patterns direct the knitter to knit the button bands at the same time as the rest of the sweater, often on a smaller size knitting needle. When this is the case, it's a good idea to put a marker before (or after, on the right side) the button band to remind you to work the stitches on the smaller needle. Using a double-pointed needle is a good trick for this method because it's small and you can stick it behind your ear to keep track of it.


	The one-row buttonhole is a firm, structured buttonhole that is less likely to stretch than other buttonholes. Learn more about how to make a better buttonhole.

	Shop Cardigan Patterns:

	Dahlia Cardigan


	Dockside Cardigan


	Lodi Cardigan

	More knitted cardigan and pattern resources available at the Knitting Daily Shop:

	Knitted cardigan pattern books and eBooks
	Knitted cardigan pattern CD Collections
	Knitted cardigan pattern DVDs/Videos
	Knitted cardigan pattern eMags
	Knitted cardigan pattern magazines
	Knitted cardigan patterns

Buttonholes

Buttonholes can be a knitter's best friend or worst enemy. It's all in the method you choose. At Knitting Daily our favorite is the one-row button hole.

For a child's cardigan, or any cardigan with smaller buttons, the simple yarn over, K2tog buttonhole works really well. Remember, if you're using thicker yarn, your buttonhole will be bigger and if you're using smaller yarn, your buttonhole will be smaller.

Spacing buttonholes is sometimes a problem, and we've got a great solution: Eunny Jang's deceptively simple buttonhole spacing method!

Buttons

It's a good idea to choose buttons after you make your buttonholes so you can choose the right size. Or, make a buttonhole swatch using your yarns and the needles you're using for your sweater. You can test out buttonholes and choose your buttons accordingly; choosing buttons can be the most fun part of knitting a cardigan!


The Essential Cardigan is a classic wardrobe-builder.

Knitting Styles

Cardigan knitting patterns come in a variety of styles. There are stockinette cardigans knit in pieces from the bottom up, raglan cardigans that you knit from the top down, lace cardigans, pattern stitch cardigans, and so on. Sky's the limit!

You can choose to knit your cardigan with ribbed waistbands, stockinette hems, garter stitch or seed stitch edgings and wristbands. It's fairly easy to customize your sweater. A great resource to have on hand is Ann Budd's Handy Book of Patterns. It will guide you through different options for personalizing your cardigan.

Steeked Cardigans

One of the most impressive and fun knitted cardigan styles is the Fair Isle cardigan. In most of these patterns, you knit the body in the round, knit the sleeves, and then steek the body, which means that you cut the cardigan up the front. That's right, you cut your knitting!


	The Cascade Cardigan is a beautiful, modern Fair Isle knitting pattern.

Steeked cardigan knitting patterns almost always call for 100 percent natural fiber yarn, most often wool, mohair, or alpaca. You need a yarn that has felting qualities so that when the steek is cut, the yarn won't ravel.

The steeking process us fairly simple. Usually the pattern calls for the middle front 10 or so stitches to be knit in a simple Fair Isle pattern, such as a checkerboard. After the knitting is completed, the area is reinforced either by machine stitching or by crochet chain stitch. And then you cut the sweater up the front!

Then you work buttonbands, and voila; you have a fabulous Fair Isle cardigan. (There are a few more small steps, but you get the idea!)

Knit cardigan sweaters are a great wardrobe builder, so knit yourself a cardigan. Cast on today!

How to Knit

Danielle — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 13:00:00 GMT


	*Stockinette stitch (photo from Knit Fix* by Lisa Kartus)**

Knitting is a centuries-old craft, practiced out of necessity to create clothing to protect people from the elements. Today, knitting is a more casual craft, with everyone from artisans to casual novices finding appeal in the variety of techniques.

When a new knitter looks at all the yarn and patterns available today, it can be overwhelming to figure out how to start knitting. But here at Knitting Daily, we don't want this to get to you, remember; even the most accomplished knitters were once learning to knit.

It may surprise you to know there are really only two knitting stitches used to make any knitted object: the knit stitch and purl stitch.

Knit stitches are very versatile and are the building blocks for all knitted items. With every row you knit using the knit stitch, you're actually creating a pattern called "garter stitch." Then, when you add the purl stitch, your knitting options open up even more.

Combine the knit and purl stitches to create lace shawls, cabled hats, or moss-stitch sweaters. Sky's the limit!

Before You Start

Learn To Knit with KDTV Episodes

Knitting Daily TV
Episode 106:
Exploring Cables

Knitting Daily TV
Episode 202:
Knit Tricks and Fixes

Knitting Daily TV
Episode 403:
Knit & Purl Magic

Knitting Daily TV
Episode 703:
Make it Fit!

More Knitting Resources
from the Knitting Daily Shop:

How to Knit Books and eBooks

How to Knit CD Collections

How to Knit DVDs/Videos

As with any craft, there are some basic supplies you'll want to have on hand. These include:

—Yarn, wound into a ball if it didn't come that way

—Needles appropriate to your yarn size

—Measuring tape to measure your progress

—Crochet hook for fixing mistakes

—Pen and paper for making notes

—And a bag to keep everything in!

Casting On


	Figure 1

1. Leaving a long tail (about 2 1⁄2" to 3" for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place on right needle.

2. Place thumb and index finger of left hand between yarn ends so that working yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb.

3. With your other fingers, secure the ends a few inches below the needles. Hold palm upwards, making a V of yarn (Figure 1).

4. Bring needle up through loop on thumb (Figure 2), grab first strand around index finger with needle, and go back down through loop on thumb (Figure 3).

5. Drop loop off thumb and, placing thumb back in V configuration, gently tighten resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4).



Figure 2	Figure 3	Figure 4

Source: Knit Fix by Lisa Kartus, Interweave, 2006

The Knit Stitch

There are several ways to accomplish the knit stitch; the two most popular are the English method (also called "throwing") and the Continental method (also called "picking"). In the English method, the working yarn is held in the right hand. In the Continental method, the yarn is held in the left hand. The information below shows how knit in the Continental method. If it feels more natural to hold the yarn in your right hand, you might prefer the English method. It's good to practice both techniques to see which feels best to you; there's no right or wrong way to knit.

To use the Continental method of knitting, follow the steps below.

Step 1. With the working yarn under and in the back of the needle, place the tip of your right needle between the front and back legs of the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). The tip of the needle should point away from you.

Step 2. Wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the right needle (the one you just put through the stitch (Figure 2).

Step 3. Pull the right needle back just enough to slip underneath the left needle and pull the yarn along with it , through the stitch on the left needle (Figure 3).

Step 4. Slip the stitch off the left needle (Figure 4). You just created a new stitch!

For Practice
Make a practice swatch—just keep knitting rows! If you make a mistake, keep going. You aren't making anything but practice knitting, so you can ignore mistakes.

Source: The Knitter's Companion by Vicki Square, Interweave, 2010

The Purl Stitch

These instructions are for purling Continental style. If you prefer to hold your yarn in your right hand, here are instructions for purling English style.

Step 1. Holding your working yarn to the front, place your right needle between the front and back legs of the first stitch on the left needle from back to front (Figure 1). The right needle tip will be pointing toward you.

Step 2. Wrap the working yarn counter-clockwise around the right needle (Figure 2).



Figure 1		Figure 2

Step 3. Pull right needle back out of the old stitch and pull the new stitch through (Figure 3).

Step 4. Slip the old stitch off the left needle (Figure 4).



Figure 3		Figure 4

Source: Knit Fix by Lisa Kartus, Interweave, 2006

FEATURED PRODUCT

Complete with an instructional 2-disc DVD set, The Knitter's Companion is every knitter's perfect reference guide to learn how to knit, complete with techniques, illustrations, and definitions. This resource is chock-full of tips, illustrations, and definitions, all made even easier to understand with the accompanying DVDs. You'll find: an overview of stitches, gauges, joins, seams, borders, and buttonholes, as well as information on innovative methods, color knitting techniques, and embellishments. An indispensable resource for learning how to knit.

Knitted Hats

Danielle — Fri, 30 Dec 2011 13:00:00 GMT


	Blume Hat ePattern

Who knows when the first person decided to put something over their head to keep it warm, but knitters know that knitted hats are some of the most fun and easy things to knit.

When they're worked in the round there is little in the way of shaping, except when you get to the crown.

Most hats are worked from the bottom up, with stitches cast-on and worked in a snug stitch pattern such as ribbing, or in stockinette for a rolled bring hat, using a smaller size needle than is used for the head portion of the hat.

In many hat patterns, the hat is worked straight for the desired length of the crown, then nearly all of the stitches are evenly decreased over the course of just a few rounds.

The yarn is cut, the tail threaded through the remaining stitches, pulled tight, and fastened off to the inside of the hat.

The hat can be topped with a pom pom, i-cord, tassel, or whatever embellishment strikes your fancy.

A great book for learning to make hats is Ann Budd's Handy Book of Patterns, from which some of the material on this page is excerpted. There are chapters on basic hats as well as the type of hats called "tams."

Types of Hats


Solitaire Beret from Weekend Hats

Shop Knitted Hat Patterns

Bohus-Inspired Hat
Colorwork knitted hat with buckle.

A Family of Hats
Fair Isle hats for the whole family.

Double Cap
Knit this fun pointy-eared cap for someone special.

Floating Spiral Hat
An offset cable pattern creates rich texture.

More hat knitting resources from
the Knitting Daily Shop:

Knitted Hat Books and eBooks

Knitted Hat CD Collections

Knitted Hat DVDs/Videos

Knitted Hat eMags

Knitted Hat Magazines

Knitted Hat Patterns

There are several types of hats, but the most popular knitted hats are beanie-type caps, tams (sometimes called "berets"), slouch hats, earflap hats, and tuques.

Beanies: These hats can be super simple or dressed up with a lace or cable patterns. In cooler climates, they're wonderful gifts for knitters to make.

Tams/Berets: There are so many different stitch patterns to use in this style. Tams and berets can be plain stockinette or intricate Fair Isle. This style of hat is really flattering on just about every face shape, too.

Earflap Hats: These hats are popular in cold climates. They're great for keeping ears warm and they're fun to knit. The knitters of Peru specialize in these hats, as shown in the photo at right.

Tuques: Stylish and popular, toques are old-fashioned hats that are coming back into style. Their fashion-forward look is very popular.

Hat Knitting Tips


	Side-Slip Cloche from Boutique Knits

For more rounded top shaping, work the top decreases every other round or every three rounds.
If you don't want to knit a hat in the round and you don't mind a slightly visible seam on the finished hat, work it back and forth in a single piece and seam the back.
Work the inside of a hemmed edge in cotton to make it more comfortable against sensitive skin.
To make a hat wind- and water-resistant, work the yarn at a smaller gauge (more stitches per inch) than recommended. For example, use smaller needles to work a worsted weight yarn at six stitches to the inch. (You'll need to cast on more stitches in this approach, so use your gauge swatch to determine the additional number of stitches needed.)

Source: The Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns, by Ann Budd, Interweave, 2002

A Few Notes on Fit


	Shadow Tuque ePattern

Often a knitted hat will have a finished size that is smaller than the average adult head. That's because hats meant to fit closely at the brim need a bit of negative ease to help them fit snugly and keep them on the head.

The amount of negative ease refers to the difference between the finished size of the object and the size of body part on which it will be worn. A hat that measures 19" (48.5 cm) around and is worn on a 22" (56 cm) head has 3" (7.5 cm) of negative ease.

A beret-type hat might have negative ease at the brim, but a few inches of positive ease in the body of the hat. The extra fabric is what creates its loose, flowing shape, while the tighter brim keeps it fitted to the head.

Source: Weekend Hats by Cecily Glowik MacDonald and Melissa LaBarre, Interweave, 2011

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Knitting Terms

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Part of the fun in learning to knit, is familiarizing yourself with all the fun knitting terms! What is a “thrum”? How to I knit “in the round”? Why should I care about “blocking”? Learn these terms (and techniques) and watch your knitting skills soar!

Knitting Videos

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Get helpful how-to video clips to walk you through your knitting projects. From casting-on to finishing tips, think of Knitting Daily when you need your next video tutorial.

Lace Knitting

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Enjoy the timeless beauty of lace knitting! Everyone can appreciate the beauty, skill and patience required to knit lace, and Knitting Daily is here to help you every step of the way. Your knitted lace heirlooms are sure to be treasured for years to come.

Sock Knitting

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	*A rainbow of socks from Getting Started Knitting Socks* by Ann Budd**

A Short History of the Knitted Sock. The history of the knitted sock is a long and interesting one. Knitted Islamic stockings and other knitted fragments date from the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries. Many were worked upward in colored patterns that often incorporated the name "Allah" in Kufic (an early Arabic script).

As the craft of knitting spread through Europe, the logic of making knitted hose rather than woven, cut, and sewn hose certainly became evident. Although this old style of hose were still worn, knitted stockings became increasingly popular. Knitted fabric was superior to woven cloth because it retained its shape, it fit better, and it offered new options in design and color.


*Arabic stocking from Folk Socks* by Nancy Bush**

Early knitted stockings were wool or linen, coarsely made with large needles. As skill in metalwork advanced, finer needles allowed finer knit work, and knitted silk stockings appeared on royalty and the aristocracy of Europe.

Due to their popularity and usefulness, the knitting of stockings, socks, caps, and other articles of clothing offered a source of livelihood for many people, thereby becoming an industry in its own right. The knitting of stockings gave many peasant laborers an independence they could not have had otherwise.

In spite of the great strides of technology, the making of stockings by hand still holds an interest for knitters. There's an attraction to making a useful item with one's own hands. A hand-knit pair of socks requires techniques that have been developed through history and talents that have been passed on from one knitter to the next. The knitting of stockings or socks provides a connection to history and each pair is, perhaps, a small honor to all the knitters who have had the great pleasure of creating a well-turned heel.

Source: Folk Socks by Nancy Bush, Interweave Press, 1994.

How to Knit a Sock

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Knit the cuff. Begin by casting on the required number of stitches and knitting the cuff, usually in a K1, P1 rib or a K2, P2 rib. The rib hugs the leg and helps keep the sock up.

Knit the leg. There are so many sock patterns to choose from, and this is usually where you begin working a stitch pattern if there is one. Knit the leg until it is the desired height.

Knit the heel flap. The heel flap is the extra bit of knitting that extends along the back of the heel from the ankle bone to the base of the foot. The heel flap is usually knit in a slip-stitch pattern, which adds durability to your sock.

Turn the heel. This is one of the parts of the sock (the other is the gusset) that transitions the leg of the sock to the foot of the sock. The heel turn is usually worked with short-rows, which are nothing more than partial rows worked on just the center stitches.

Knit the gusset. The gusset connects the heel with the instep so that you can work the foot in rounds to the tip of the toe. To form the gusset, you'll pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap that will connect the newly turned heel stitches with the waiting instep stitches. Once all of the stitches are picked up, you'll work several sets of decreases on every other round until you get back to the number of stitches you have in the leg portion of the sock.

Knit the foot. Now you knit in the round until you reach the desired foot length, not including the toe.

Knit the toe. This involves decreasing on each side of the sock every other row. You'll form a wedge shape, similar to the shape of your toes. If your toes are pointy, you can decrease more; if they're flat, decrease less.

Finish the toe. Work the Kitchener stitch across the toe stitches to form a seamless toe. The Kitchener stitch is worked by using a length of yarn to weave in and out of stitches in a specific pattern that mimics a knit stitch.

Source: Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd, Interweave Press, 2007.

Join Eunny Jang as she takes you through the steps of knitting a sock!

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Working Socks From The Toe Up by Ann Budd


On-Your-Toes Socks by Ann Budd

In general, I like to knit socks from the top down, beginning with a cast-on at the top of the leg and ending with the Kitchener stitch at the tip of the toe. But sometimes it's practical (and preferable) to work in the opposite direction—from the tip of the toe to the top of the leg. With this method, you cast on stitches at the tip of the toe, work the foot to the desired length, work short-rows to shape the heel, then work the leg to the desired length, finishing with a flexible bind-off at the top of the leg. One advantage of the toe-up method is that you can try on the socks at any point along the way to make sure that they fit just right.

Another advantage of toe-up sock knitting is that the heel is shaped in short-rows without a heel flap or gussets. You won't have to count rows in the heel flap or pick up stitches for the gussets, which can be particularly helpful if you're working with a highly textured yarn that obscures individual stitches or you tend to have trouble seeing the stitches. And best of all for many knitters, when you work from the toe up, you don't have to work the Kitchener stitch.

Working socks from the toe up is also a good idea if you're worried about running out of yarn. Begin with two balls of equal size, one for each sock. Work the foot to the desired length while you have lots of yarn, then continue up the leg as far as you can before the ball runs out. This is a great way to economize with expensive yarn--buy a single ball for each sock and use every precious yard.

—Ann Budd

A Perfect Sock Cast-On from Nancy Bush

Here's a lesson from Nancy Bush about an Estonian cast-on that's perfect to use for socks because it's so stretchy. I like this cast-on because the space from my heel to where the top of my foot meets my leg is a little bigger than average, and if I'm going to have trouble with a sock fitting, it's going to be there. I always cast-on loosely, but I don't like the look of a really loose cast-on because it can be messy and "loopy." This cast-on is naturally stretchy without looking loose. Try it on your next pair of socks!

Speaking of your next pair, Nancy has written several classic sock knitting books, including Knitting on the Road, Knitting Vintage Socks, and Folk Socks . If you don't have at least one of these sock books, you are missing out on some amazing sock-knitting opportunities!

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10 Tips for Longer-Lasting Socks


	*Fun striped socks from Getting Started Knitting Socks* by Ann Budd**

1. Don't wind your yarn into a cake until you're ready to knit. Winding a skein into a cake pulls fibers taut and over months the yarn could lose its ability to spring back into shape.

2. Choose the right yarn for the project; 100% cotton yarn isn't necessarily appropriate for socks because they will quickly bag and lose their shape when worn. Wool and wool/nylon blends are popular for socks because of their innate elasticity.

3. Choose high-quality sock yarn-inexpensive sock yarn tends have short fibers, which pill and wear out more quickly than longer fibers. If your budget is tight, you can find great deals in sale sections.

4. Go down one needle size (or more) when knitting the feet. If a label calls for a US 2 needle, knit the foot of the sock on a US 1, or even a US 0 so you get a dense fabric that holds up to wear.

5. Knit the right size socks. Too-big socks slip around more on the foot and cause more wear as they move around in your shoes.

6. Rinse socks separately before washing with other items. While dye shouldn't run, super-saturated colors might and you don't want your other socks to be affected.

7. Turn socks inside-out when washing. That way the inside of the sock gets a fuzzy halo over time, and not the outside.

8. Consider washing your finished socks in a small mesh bag in the machine so they don't catch on zippers.

9. Don't wash socks in hot water. Even socks labeled "superwash" could felt or shrink a bit.

10. Lay socks flat to dry. Over time, machine drying will lessen stitch definition and make socks look worn. The intense heat of drying might also break down fibers.

—Allison Van Zandt, Simply Socks Yarn Company

Sockupied eMag—Fall 2011

Featured Product: In pursuit of sock knitting? Download the interactive Sockupied eMag with sock-knitting tips, techniques, and patterns that will keep your feet happy! The Fall 2011 Sockupied eMag features 5 sock patterns from classic cables to stranded colorwork, methods for saving your hand-knitted socks from wear and tear, top-notch sock designer insights, customizing ideas, and interactive videos and galleries for sock-knitting inspiration.

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Online Knitting

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Knitting Daily is your community for all your online knitting needs. Need expert tips and tricks? Looking for the perfect finish to your project? Trying to find a beautiful pattern? Have a question you need answered from a peer in the forum? It’s all right here…and we’re so glad you are too!

Knitting for Children

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The personalization of your knitting is what makes it so special for those who look forward to wearing it. Even the pickiest fashonista will appreciate the time and effort you spent making it just for them. Receive sound advice from Knitting Daily experts, and knit something extraordinary for the special child in your life!

Knitting for Men

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It’s not always easy to find advice (or great patterns) when knitting for men. From gallery photos, to tips along the way, Knitting Daily will help you knit up that special something (for that special someone).

Knitting for Women

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Whether you’re looking to knit something up for yourself or a special woman in your life, Knitting Daily has you covered with tips, techniques, and patterns galore! Knitting Daily forums are also filled with knitting divas who are happy to jump in and help, 24 hours a day!

Knitting Sweaters

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Every knitter has dreamed of knitting the perfect sweater. Cozy up with Knitting Daily as we discuss alternate finishing options, offer advice on the best yarn to use, show you the latest fashion trends, and so much more.

Knitting for Babies

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One of the many wonderful things about knitting is that you can find amazing patterns in all sorts of shapes and sizes! Knitting for babies is fun for you, and appreciated by those who enjoy the finished product—smiles are guaranteed!