funny you say that.... I didn't like the two at a time either... always got twisted and hard to follow if I were travelling with my stuff.... i love doing it this way.. :) thanks !
NIce Job Erica !!! Love the color !!
Here is the new yarn I will be using....trekking maxima
I guess not only do I need help learning to knit, but also help learning to read knitting instructions. I am self taught, with the help of a knitting for dummies book, you tube and other on-line resources. I asked this question over the weekend but think it got lost in the shuffle
I've knitted up to "TURN HEEL". And have completed rows 1 and 2 of that part. There are instructions in parenthesis on rows 3
and four. What do they mean? I've held my knitting here until I know the answer. I have a lot of trouble "unknitting" and fixing mistakes so if I get too messed up I unravel the whole thing and start over. (Have I said this is at least my fifth attempt to knit a sock) So I'm really hoping the KAL is the ticket for me. Thanxs Nancy
Here are the instructions for those rows: Row 3: Sl 1 pwise wyb, k6, ssk (1 st each side
of gap formed on previous row), k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyf, p7, p2tog (1 st each
side of gap), p1, turn.
When you are turning a heel, you are actually giving shape to what is otherwise a flat fabric. So, this part of the pattern creates the round shape of a heel. The instructions in the parenthesis that you are referring to are details to help you check to be sure you are doing this step at the right place. In row two, you are instructed to purl 2 together and then purl one, at the end of the row. This will create a small gap in the row. In row 3 then, when you get to the ssk, the first stitich you slip will be on one side of the gap you created in the previous row and the second will be the next stitch which happens to be on the other side of that gap. When you've completed that ssk, you then knit one and turn. This creates another small gap. So, in row 4, the instructions in parenthesis refer to a similar action. At the end of that 4th row, you'll come to the point where you purl 2 together. The first stitch will be on one side of the gap and the next stitch will be on the other side of the gap. Purl those together, then purl one and turn. These extra instructions will help you to double check that you are in the right place in the row. If you are about to p2tog and you haven't reached the gap yet, you're not in the right place.
I hope this helps!
Thank you thank you thank you.
teva_hobbies:I would like to use Alpaca with a Twist, Baby Twist. It is a 3ply 3 weight. Do you think they will come out too thick?
I agree with Cindy (cekoons) that thick socks can be delightful! And alpaca is very soft. However, it doesn't have a lot of memory, so the socks may stretch and slouch. For house or slipper socks, that could be just right, but if you want something that will stay up, you might want to look for something with wool in it.
Sheena in Ohio, I have tried socks many times on DPN's but always got ladders no matter what I did. I use 9 inch circulars. Am using locally dyed wool called Ireland, in Green, will post a pic soon. Just figured out how to get to this forum
I found a great sock sale at www.littleknits.com. The yarn categories are listed on the left side of the screen. Socks & More is the 4th category from the bottom. Enjoy!
It certainly does! Thank you so much for the explanation! This is exactly what I needed to know. I'm so glad to have joined the group.
I'm using DPN (2.5mm and 2.25mm) with Patons Kroy Socks FX. This is my first try at knitting socks. I've done some hats, scarfs, and two sweaters. I look forward to reading everyone's comments as their socks progress. Now that I have this information on how to do the heel, I'm back to my knitting!
Well I should have asked this question and not kept going.... Now I have to unknit as I have a small hole in the heel. First any hints on un-knitting? When/if I can get back to the spot before I have the hole how can I tell where I am in the pattern? I had the problem at the end of Turning the Heel. As usual I don't understand these instructions after row 10.
Cont in this manner, working 1 more st beforedecreasing on each row, and omittinglast k1 on final RS row and last p1 on finalWS row if there are not enough sts to workthem (i.e., if you began with 28, 32, 36, or 40sts)—16 (18, 20, 20, 22) heel sts rem.
I've considered just to keep on going and ignore the hole as I've started over from the beginning on socks so many times. But if I can fix the mistake and figure out the directions....
Thanks for any help
npaprocki:First any hints on un-knitting?
Use your working yarn to pull the stitch on the right needle taut; that should open up the stitch below the needle. Insert the left needle in the opened stitch, move it onto the left needle, and drop it from the right needle. The working yarn should be ready to go for the next stitch.
If you're ripping a bunch, pick a row a couple rows more recent than the mistake and use a thinner needle to pick up all the right-hand sides of the stitches you can, then pull out the regular-size needle and unravel down to the smaller needle. You can unknit stitch by stitch for a row or two to make sure you have every stitch on the needle in the correct orientation.
npaprocki:When/if I can get back to the spot before I have the hole how can I tell where I am in the pattern?
Pick a spot to rip back to that will be easy to identify. If you're unknitting on the heel flap, count the number of chain-edge stitches on one side, which will tell you the number of times you've worked the two-row heel flap pattern.
You can always rip back to the beginning of the heel flap; it's not that far, and if your stitches are on a holder for the instep, the stitches won't rip back amy farther.
npaprocki:I don't understand these instructions after row 10.
It's probably easiest to just work to 1 stitch before the gap and then work ssk (on a RS row) or p2tog (on a WS row) rather than trying to count. It should feel familiar because it's the same way you've worked Rows 1-10.
However, all of these rows end with "ssk, k1" or "p2tog, p1." When you get to the last 2 rows, there may only be one stitch before the gap and one stitch after the gap--enough to work the ssk or p2tog but not enough to work the k1 or p1 after. If there's only 1 stitch before & after the gap, then just work the ssk or p2tog and forget about the k1 or p1.
Depending what size you're making, you may not run into this--there may be 1 stitch before the gap and 2 stitches afterwards; in that case, work the ssk, k1 and p2tog, p1.
I hope that helps!
If you need a visual for tinking (knitting backwards or un-knitting) this video is helpful: http://verypink.com/2010/05/13/tinking/