I'm in! I'm excited - I love the look of this sweater. I have no idea what yarn to pick, though. I've looked at sale yarns online, but will probably head down to the local store and find the perfect yarn. After I survey my wardrobe and decide on a color.
I love doing KAL! I did the Seaweed Lace Vest as my first ever garment just over a year ago. Knitting is addicting!
Karen in Indiana
I love the pattern but reading the posts about the chart I feel concerned. I am not used of following charts and I am afraid to have problems. I did the swatch and will be using Cascade Cloud 9 (50 wool, 50 angora) . I am a little short of yardage but will work it out on the sleeves
Marguerite from Montreal
The stitches for RF and LF worked out okay for me. It's a bit difficult to make out on the charts, but both front pieces for size 37 1/2 have 2 stitches in row 2. That is what I had from following the written instructions. Then both pieces increase 1 stitch on each side in row 3, making a total of 4 stitches.
Redbug:It's a bit difficult to make out on the charts, but both front pieces for size 37 1/2 have 2 stitches in row 2. That is what I had from following the written instructions. Then both pieces increase 1 stitch on each side in row 3, making a total of 4 stitches.
In the notes it says that the selvedge stitches are not shown on the charts, and in the written directions it says that the first stitch is a selvedge stitch. So, as I read it, that means we only have 1 stitch and one selvedge stitch after row 2, and the chart should only have 1 stitch on it, but it has three, with the increase on Row 3 making it up to 4 stitches. That's the source of the confusion. I hope the designer answers Diana Jo's email!
I agree it is confusing. Here's how I'm thinking. The notes say the "selvedge stitches are included but do not show on charts". I'm operating on the premise that means there is a square on the chart to account for the selvedge stitch but it has no special marking indicating it as such. In other words the selvedge stitch is shown in pattern as either white or gray as any other stitch. You just have to remember to slip it at the beginning of each row. I imagine this is so because as the sizes increase so do the number of stitches and the chart needs to show the pattern for all sizes.
If anyone learns anything else that clears this up, please post.
I’m in. I am using MadeleineTosh
Vintage, William Morris.
I rushed home from work, checked my gauge, and strted to
figure out the pattern. Here’s my take:
Size 37.5 (or any of the cast on 70)
L front 1
l back 14
r back 14
r front 1
Results in 70 sts
Its all in the math
Candy, you are a genious!! I think that's it! It perfectly explains the extra stitch on only the RF and LF. I am headed for my knitting right now. You have saved the day for me.
another genius. thank you
Thank you Kathleenster! that helps a lot.
I swatched using the knitpicks wool of the andes and 4mm needles were too small, up to a 5mm and it works. Now I'm debating whether to stick with the cloud (off white) or try the coal (black), I did one swatch in each and the chevron still looks very 'visible' on the black (I thought it would get lost). I have enough of either colour, so I'll think on that a bit more. Still debating the contrasting band/border, I'm going to add the border to the swatch and see how it looks.
Now, my challenge is that I am left-handed and I haven't done a garment using a chart before (tea cosies, wash cloths and such but then left and right don't matter so much!). As I am looking at it, I turned the charts upside down and they seem to work for me... I'll see! and this is my first top down item, something else that's new.
I've completed 12 rows and things are getting easier. I'm getting into the rhythm of this pattern now. For those who haven't begun and may be feeling daunted by this project, I encourage you to give it a go. Try to understand the pattern as best you can ahead of time. Come up with a way to keep yourself organized and track your progress. And, don't rush when you begin knitting. Once you get started, if something isn't making sense, step away for a while and come back to it later. Maybe it will click then. Check this sight for tips others have posted.
I'm working with black yarn. Between that and the tiny charts, I easily get eye strain so I have to take frequent breaks. I have a few other things to do today so won't get in much knitting time.
Good luck to all.
Even though I've been knitting for years, I find this pattern intimidating... Can I knit it using the written instructions only or do I have to refer to the chart too ? I started my CO this morning ...
Merci beaucoup ! Marguerite
I had concerns about the upper arms of this jacket looking tight on the model in the picture. My upper arms are a bit large so I was concerned about them fitting comfortably. I contacted the designer through Ravelery to ask about this. I also asked when to start the shaping chart. I am including my question to her and her response.
My question: Starting the Pan Am Jacket. Making the yellow size 37 1/2”. Can you tell me the diameter of the upper sleeve where it joins the body? It looks a bit tight on the model in the Interweave picture. I have large arms and want to make it big enough. I was thinking of adding a couple stitches on each side of the sleeves. When you do suggest I start that?
Another question, do you begin using the shaping chart on row3? If not, when?
Her response: I’m so glad to hear you’re knitting the Pan Am!
The sleeves are worked as simple tubes, with no shaping, so the cuff circumference shown in the schematics is the same as the upper arm circumference. That said, the chevron pattern is a broken rib with a lot of stretch to it.
If you’re concerned about the arm diameter, there are a couple of ways to address it. The chevron pattern is carefully laid out to mirror exactly at all seams (raglan, trapeze and underarm), so any mods need a little bit of attention.
If you want to add extra stitches to the arms, you’ll also need to add the same stitches to the body to maintain a consistent underarm seam. You should do that just after the arm divide, in the first row of the body join and each of the arms. Be careful to continue the chevron pattern and mirror it in the middle of the cast on extra stitches.
You could also go up a size instead of adding stitches under the arms. Since the Pan Am is a loose cardigan with overlapping front edges, you have a great opportunity to adjust the body circumference by controlling the amount of overlap through button placement.
And shaping does begin on Row 3.
Soooo, now I have to decide what to do. I took upon myself to add 2 stitches on each side of the sleeves on row 7. I could rip back to there and just forget about extra stitches altogether, or do as the designer explains and add them throughout to keep the pattern in sync, or make a bigger size. Have to think on that for a while.
I'm better but still stuck. First, thanks to the poster who explained that "selvedge stitches don't show on the charts" actually means "there is a square on the chart for the selvedge stitch but it isn't marked as such." That was a big help, but I'm still missing one stitch. In the written instructions there are 1 selvedge stitch and 1 front stitch, which takes care of two squares on the chart. But there are 3 squares on the chart. Am I supposed to just ignore one of the squares? If so, which one do we ignore? I'm knitting the 44-3/4" size but this part of the pattern is the same for everybody.
I have the exact same question Adele.... I wish I had an answer so I can feel comfortable with this project...
It's difficult to see because the colors red and purple appear nearly the same, but there are actually only 2 stitches on the chart for rows 1 and 2 for all sizes. For the smallest size, red, it's the 2 stitches on the right for the left front chart, and it's the 2 stitches on the left for the right front chart. For all other sizes, it's the 2 stitches on the left for the left front chart, and the 2 stitches on the right for the right front chart. It almost requires a magnifying glass to distinguish this in the magazine. It's worse on the enlarged charts I printed because my printer colors are even closer in value than the magazine colors.
Hope this clears this up for you.