THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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MichelleR wrote
on Jun 25, 2012 8:58 PM

I haven't seen this addressed yet so I'm going to through this out there for who ever can answer. This is regarding the first two written rows as compared to the charts for the left front and right front charts only. The written directions say to purl the one stitch on the left front chart and the one stitch on the right front BUT the chart shows a white square for those stitches and the key on the chart says that a white square on a RS row should be knit, row 1 is a RS row. So on row 2 it should be a purl and the written says to knit. I am looking at the writting directions for the sizes 371/2 and larger. The directions for size 331/2 seem to be correct. Has anyone else noticed this and should I change those purls to knits?

I went ahead and worked those first two rows as written then got to thinking that if I follow the chart for row 3 it will mess up the pattern.

Michelle

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alpacadero wrote
on Jun 25, 2012 9:27 PM

It makes sense if you consider the cast on row to be a RS row.

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MichelleR wrote
on Jun 25, 2012 9:47 PM

alpacadero:

It makes sense if you consider the cast on row to be a RS row.

It would except for the fact that the directions say that row 1 is a RS row, 1) they can't both be a RS row and 2) the rest of the charts match the written directions.

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CelticLady wrote
on Jun 25, 2012 9:49 PM

I must be really dense but I can't figure out where to look.  I go from the charts but don't forget the divided sts which aren't on the charts but remember to go to the raglan chart !!!!  Help, I don't suppose their are just written instructions?  

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Willyknit wrote
on Jun 25, 2012 10:04 PM

MichelleR:

I went ahead and worked those first two rows as written then got to thinking that if I follow the chart for row 3 it will mess up the pattern.

Hi!

The 1st stitch of every RS is a sl 1 and the last stitch on the RS is a knit and the 1st stitch on the WS is a Sl 1 and the last stitch is a purl -- just like the written instructions for rows 1 and 2.

In the notes sections it says the selvedge stitches are included but do not show on charts --  which means the Sl stitch is on the chart but not what type of stitch.  Since the chart is written for several sizes, it keeps the stitch pattern.

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on Jun 25, 2012 10:09 PM

I have made it to row 33.   I did Row 1 and 2 from the written instructions and added the markers as instructed.  I then moved to the charts and followed just the charts.  The markers remind you to do the 4 raglan stitches and change charts.   It has worked very well.  You need to make sure to read the odd (RS) rows from right to left and the even (WS) rows from left to right. and when you are doing the WS, the light squares become purl and the dark squares become knit.   Keep at it..once you get past the beginning, it all makes sense. 

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Scarlett1063 wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 1:30 AM

Hi seeke- how are you doing with the pattern? Icast on...and I already reached row 44....and it is fun!

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SoCalMeaghan wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 1:34 AM

Thank you to everyone for your help - I've cast on and made it to row 18. It's really easy as long as you ignore the shaping chart. The wording is confusing yet everything you should know is in the knitting chart and the notes prior to starting. Good luck - I think you'll have a great time with the pattern!

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Scarlett1063 wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 7:24 AM

I cast on last evening....and couldn't stop until row 37 was done....it's such an amazing pattern. My first confusion with the pattern-  charts and text and shaping guidelines ended when I just did what was written in the text about the first two rows. Then I switched to the charts.....I copied them- and fixed them in a row....so I can just follow the charts with one eye on it.

I underline in black every second row- so it's easier for me to follow the charts.....and I can see what was in the last row....and what`s coming up next. This works very well for me. I can see the pattern clearly. The divider stiches are like landmark in the workpiece and help to do the increases at the right position! It's so much fun doing this pattern......I feel very comfortable with it....and I'm courious what will come next.

 

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Kripa wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 8:20 AM

This is sad but I'm already stuck and I haven't even done my guage swatch. Exactly which part of the instructions should I follow to get my guage swatch? Is this a stupid question? Thanks for any help! I bought the yarn for it yesterday but not having it in front of me, I've already forgotten what it is. I know it's a local Michigan produced 100% wool. I'm excited to get started soon after my move this weekend!

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MichelleR wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 8:47 AM

Willyknit:
The 1st stitch of every RS is a sl 1 and the last stitch on the RS is a knit and the 1st stitch on the WS is a Sl 1 and the last stitch is a purl -- just like the written instructions for rows 1 and 2.

 

Thank you, this is correct for the smallest size but I am using the written directions for the all the other sizes. I think I figured it out though. Early on it was stated that we are supposed to work the right two stitches only of the three listed on the left front chart. My chart from right to left is  a white square (slip), white square (knit), grey square (purl). using the directions for the smallest size the two white squares would be s1, k1, just like the directions say ignoring the 3rd purl square. 

The larger directions say to s1, p1 so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that instead of me using the first two white squares I need to be reading the chart ignoring the first white square and using the second white square and the 3rd gray square for the s1, p1 as the larger directions state. Is this correct?

If this is correct then I still have a problem with row 3 that has 4 stitches when my needles only have 2 the s1, p1. reading from right to left my chart shows two white squares and two grey squares and the increases wouldn't happen till after the the rm (the first grey square),  so am I still ignoring the first of the 4 squares, slipping the second white square, purling the 3rd grey square, slip marker, m1p for the 4th gray square to account for the 4 squares? If this is correct then at what point do I stop ignoring squares so I can follow the cart as written?

I'm not sure why I'm not getting this but thank you all for trying to help me understand it.

Michelle

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Willyknit wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 9:21 AM

MichelleR:

Willyknit:
The 1st stitch of every RS is a sl 1 and the last stitch on the RS is a knit and the 1st stitch on the WS is a Sl 1 and the last stitch is a purl -- just like the written instructions for rows 1 and 2.

The larger directions say to s1, p1 so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that instead of me using the first two white squares I need to be reading the chart ignoring the first white square and using the second white square and the 3rd gray square for the s1, p1 as the larger directions state. Is this correct?

If this is correct then I still have a problem with row 3 that has 4 stitches when my needles only have 2 the s1, p1. reading from right to left my chart shows two white squares and two grey squares and the increases wouldn't happen till after the the rm (the first grey square),  so am I still ignoring the first of the 4 squares, slipping the second white square, purling the 3rd grey square, slip marker, m1p for the 4th gray square to account for the 4 squares? If this is correct then at what point do I stop ignoring squares so I can follow the cart as written?

Looking at the charts for the large sizes - within the purple lines - row 3 would go like this:

left front: sl1, increase a k1, p1, increase a p1 = 4 stitches.  (Row 2 had 2 stitches and row 3 has 4 stitches = 2 increases)

(sl m k1,p2,k1, sl m) - divider stitches between rm

sleeve:  increase a p1,p1,k2,p3,k2,p1, increase a p1 = 11 stitches  (Row 2 had 9 stitches and row 3 has 11 stitches = 2 increase)

(sl m k1,p2,k1, sl m) - divider stitches between rm

left back: increase a p1, p1,k2,p3,k2,p2,k2,p2 = 15  stitches   (Row 2 had 14 stitches, row 3 has 15 stitches = 1 increase)

(sl m k1,p2,k1, sl m) - divider stitches between cbm

right back: p2,k2,p2,k2,p3,k2,p1, increase a p1 = 15 stitches (Row 2 had 14 stitches, row 3 has 15 stitches = 1 increase)

(sl m k1,p2,k1, sl m) - divider stitches between rm

sleeve: increase a p1,p1,k2,p3,k2,p1, increase a p1 = 11 stitches  (Row 2 had 9 stitches and row 3 has 11 stitches = 2 increase)

(sl m k1,p2,k1, sl m) - divider stitches between rm

right front: increase a p1,p1,increase a k1, k1 = 4 stitches (Row 2 had 2 stitches and row 3 has 4 stitches = 2 increases)

Hope this helps Smile

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MichelleR wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 10:12 AM

Thank you very much! This does make sense and I will use this. I would have never guessed this based on the way the raglan shaping chart is written.

Very helpful thank you for taking the time to write this out for me (the group dummy) Stick out tongue

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 10:17 AM

The gusset is done and I am pleased with the results.  The designer's join for the sleeve underarm is very nice - but no wiggle room at all.  When I saw the size of the opening, I decided on a gusset.  Yes, the knitted fabric is very stretchy and I think my arm would have fit.  But I like the extra room.  SO - I added 8 additional stitches, decreasing them down every fourth row until I had the "original" 4 divider stitches.  I will pick up these stitches on the sleeve side and make a full gusset when I get there.  You could actually do a provisional cast on of the additional 8 stitches and then you don't have to pick up any stitches but it wasn't worth it for me given that I wasn't even sure I would keep the gusset.  I'm uploading a pic and if anyone needs more specifics, let me know. 

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Posts 31
Redbug wrote
on Jun 26, 2012 10:38 AM

Thanks so much for the clear gusset instructions and picture.  Very helpful.

Candy

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