THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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Posts 11
on Jun 28, 2012 12:01 PM

This is a partially completed stocking of the type I usually knit (18th Century period pattern and clocks (the disigns that appear in both sides of the stockings, run up the calf and somtimes appear to each side of the gusset), they have a gauge of about 20X24/in and are worked on 000 double-pointed needles.

This is how I manage my charts and tracking where I am on the chart.  The highlighted lines are every 5 rows for ease of counting, and I continue it across the spaces between charts so I can more easily stay on track.

I then color along the edge to show which rows have been completed.  I change the line color every twenty rows, again to keep track more easily.  I usually also tie short lengths of the same color yarn every five rows so I can see where I am and eliminate the "brain farts" that come along with the multiple projects on the go at the same time.  Oh the joys of ADD without the H I used to have.

And here is the sweater/jacket up to row 40.  Now I must go spin.

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Posts 11
on Jun 28, 2012 12:06 PM

I forgot, I also must print out the charts again and trim them to the 37 1/2" size for my niece Chrissie's Pan-Am...and spin dye the wool (from one of the white sheep), and card/blend it, and spin it and wash it and finally cast on.  I made a red seed stitch V-neck sweater with white intarsia cables for Chrissie back when we thought she was a he (the equipment was there, but the heart knew otherwise).  This will be my first sweater for her since then.  We're both really excited.

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Posts 11
on Jun 28, 2012 12:41 PM

Yes, the increases happen as the first pattern stitch.  The first and last stitches on the needle are selvedge stitches and are not seen on the chart.  Just slip 1 (selvedge st) at beginning of every row, and knit 1 (selvedge st) at the end of every row, and follow the chart in between.

I hope this helps.

 

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bessT wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 1:16 PM

the.fibre.queen:

Yes, the increases happen as the first pattern stitch.  The first and last stitches on the needle are selvedge stitches and are not seen on the chart.

It is confusing - they are on the chart but not shown as being slipped. another little thing to have to remember. I notice I have to change the way of slipping depending on if the end stitch of the previous row had been knit or purled, to keep the selvedge edge looking chain-like. just another thing to keep us on our toes.

Your pasted charts look great Smile

I'm reading my pages like a book, with a ruler on the row in progress, and a pencil notation for the row number in case of interruptions, until I have the chevron pattern settled in mind. slow but sure.

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Posts 11
on Jun 28, 2012 3:30 PM

The change of the slip is eliminated if you always knit the last stitch.  I have to make what I do immensely visual because I have a portable black-hole into which pencils fall and disappear forever.  I also have a habit of forgetting to advance an row marking devise I try to use (and they are also attracted to my black-hole).  My colored pencil row marking is mostly done as a catch up measure at the end of the knitting session.  The colored pencils live in the lockable desk drawer, which is the only way I have found to keep them from growing legs and wandering off and getting lost.  I'm currently using fancy metal-stamped rings, from my jewelry making supplies to keep track of the increases.

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Posts 454
bessT wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 3:51 PM

the.fibre.queen:

The change of the slip is eliminated if you always knit the last stitch.  I have to make what I do immensely visual because I have a portable black-hole into which pencils fall and disappear forever.  I also have a habit of forgetting to advance an row marking devise I try to use (and they are also attracted to my black-hole).  My colored pencil row marking is mostly done as a catch up measure at the end of the knitting session.  The colored pencils live in the lockable desk drawer, which is the only way I have found to keep them from growing legs and wandering off and getting lost.  I'm currently using fancy metal-stamped rings, from my jewelry making supplies to keep track of the increases.

Whatever works Wink

For this sweater I keep that last stitch in pattern so that I know if I'm on a RS or WS row, in case my mind switches to 'automatic.' I think your missing pencils (and rulers if you can't find them) are at my place. I have both all over the place and I haven't bought any since...?

Big Smile

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Posts 55
AdeleDS wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 5:06 PM

CateM:

The first stitch of each row is slipped. Is it always slipped purlwise (as it was in rows 1 and 2)?

About last selvedge stitch(es )-  it seems there is only 1 end of row selvedge stitch in rows 1 and 2 and it should be a stockingnet stitch , right? i.e. knit on right side and purled on wrong side. Please confirm.

That's the way the pattern is written. I'm not doing the stocking stitch just before the edge stitch, though, because I'm a "slip the first, knit the last" girl through and through. I don't think it really matters either way since we will be knitting the continuous band onto the edge. (as always - IMBW - "I Might Be Wrong")

CateM:

I didn't see a reply to a few questions about whether it would look ok to only do one kind of M1 - ? Any thoughts?

I'm only doing one kind of M1 (pick up the bar back to front, and knit or purl into the front) and I think it looks OK. But I've noticed that the more modern knitters are really fussy about which way the M1s go (right slant/left slant). So I think it depends on what you think. All I can say is that mine looks fine to me, but others might disagree.

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JKBear wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 5:14 PM

I'm doing a knit M1 by picking up back to front and knitting into the front, or purl the opposite (pick up front to back and purl into back). No holes, you can't tell the difference in my mind.

I was concerned about the sleeve depth and added 4 rows without increases. Then I added a 6 stitch gusset under the sleeve. I've connected the body (sleeves on scrap yarn) and made 2 rounds, and it looks great!  Exciting to be through the technical part. Now I just need to knit, knit, knit...

I'm considering a softer, contrasting yarn for the lining (partly because my garment will be a little stiff, partly for comfort and unique look). Anyone else considering that?

 

Karen in IN

 

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ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 5:38 PM

JKBear:

I'm doing a knit M1 by picking up back to front and knitting into the front, or purl the opposite (pick up front to back and purl into back). No holes, you can't tell the difference in my mind.

 

I do M1's in the same manner.  Another option that I've heard knitters like cuz' it's easy...do a YO in the row for increase. Then in the next row, twist the YO stitch to close it up (like K-tbl or P-tbl).  I've also used that to close up YO's in lace when I don't want it to be open...but that's a story for another day.

JKBear:

I'm considering a softer, contrasting yarn for the lining (partly because my garment will be a little stiff, partly for comfort and unique look). Anyone else considering that?

 

Yes, I have been considering that too!  Would be a good place to make a yarn change in case there's not enough MC yarn, or change to long sleeves.  Contrast color for cuff and front linings, might make it quite jazzy!  I was thinking of making the change (if I do) on the purl row for turning.  And then...having that contrast color for the button...

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cazknits wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 6:41 PM

Redbug:

Diana Jo,

The stitches for RF and LF worked out okay for me.  It's a bit difficult to make out on the charts, but both front pieces for size 37 1/2 have 2 stitches in row 2.  That is what I had from following the written instructions. Then both pieces increase 1 stitch on each side in row 3, making a total of 4 stitches.  

 

 

Candy

So, the selvedge stitches ARE shown one the chart? Otherwise, there wouldn't be two stitches to begin with on Row 3. The notes say, "Selvedge stitches and Make 1 (M1) are included but do not show on the charts..." I assume this means "do not show as such" (meaning they are not designated as a special stitch). Am I right about this? It's a bit confusing.

Thanks!

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Redbug wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 6:53 PM

cazknits:

Redbug:

Diana Jo,

The stitches for RF and LF worked out okay for me.  It's a bit difficult to make out on the charts, but both front pieces for size 37 1/2 have 2 stitches in row 2.  That is what I had from following the written instructions. Then both pieces increase 1 stitch on each side in row 3, making a total of 4 stitches.  

 

 

Candy

So, the selvedge stitches ARE shown one the chart? Otherwise, there wouldn't be two stitches to begin with on Row 3. The notes say, "Selvedge stitches and Make 1 (M1) are included but do not show on the charts..." I assume this means "do not show as such" (meaning they are not designated as a special stitch). Am I right about this? It's a bit confusing.

Thanks!

Yes, you are correct.  There is a square on the chart to account for the selvedge stitch, but it has no special marking indicating it as such.  It appears in pattern as gray or white.

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Posts 454
bessT wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 7:06 PM

cazknits:

So, the selvedge stitches ARE shown one the chart? Otherwise, there wouldn't be two stitches to begin with on Row 3. The notes say, "Selvedge stitches and Make 1 (M1) are included but do not show on the charts..." I assume this means "do not show as such" (meaning they are not designated as a special stitch). Am I right about this? It's a bit confusing.

Thanks!

A bit confusing is right  I go with your assumption. Smile

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cazknits wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 8:12 PM

bessT:

cazknits:

So, the selvedge stitches ARE shown one the chart? Otherwise, there wouldn't be two stitches to begin with on Row 3. The notes say, "Selvedge stitches and Make 1 (M1) are included but do not show on the charts..." I assume this means "do not show as such" (meaning they are not designated as a special stitch). Am I right about this? It's a bit confusing.

Thanks!

A bit confusing is right  I go with your assumption. Smile

Thanks, candy & bessT. Glad to know I was on track. My selvedge on the LF is wonky -- I thought it was supposed to be nice and smooth, but it's not. Is this because sometimes it's a K and other times it's a P. When I google the slip st selvedge, it looks different than what I have.

 

Thanks again.

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Posts 454
bessT wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 8:34 PM

cazknits:

Thanks, candy & bessT. Glad to know I was on track. My selvedge on the LF is wonky -- I thought it was supposed to be nice and smooth, but it's not. Is this because sometimes it's a K and other times it's a P. ...

Yes, so do a visual check when you 'slip purlwise' - in case you should 'slip knitwise' that time to keep it looking smooth, like a chain. However as others have mentioned, this edge will be consumed by the border so not to worry if it looks uneven. There is a school of thought that a chain edge is decorative only, not for picking up (Elizabeth Zimmerman comes to mind) but I'll go with these directions, now that I'm in hook-line-and-sinker Big Smile

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Posts 388
ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jun 28, 2012 8:42 PM

Slipped Stitch discussion.

I haven't started yet...but I see discussion that there are slipped stitches for edging, an edge that will eventually be picked up when doing the Continuous Band.  IMO, I am never happy with slipped stitches for pickup edges, because it in effect means there is only one slipped stitch for every 2 rows.  So if you want to do a pick-up ratio of anything other than 1 st every 2 rows, it is AWKWARD.  At least in my experience.  And so, I will be knitting this with all edge stitches stockinette, no slipped ones for me. And then I can do a pickup ratio that makes sense for my knitting gauge, nice and neat.

Anyone else know what I mean? 

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