THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 8:06 PM

Marliztay:

Received my yarn- Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Eggplant. 

Love the color.  It's even a little darker than the picture shows.  I've cast on for the smallest size, and knit rows 1 & 2.  I've read, and re-read all the posts, and printed some of your hints.  Thank you, but I'm VERY overwhelmed and would appreciate a little extra help. 

So now I go to the charts.  Please correct me if I'm wrong:

  • I start with Row 3 on the charts.  Row 3 is a Right Side and is read from right to left.  Row 4 is a Wrong Side and is read from left to right. 
  • I read the charts in the following order: Left Front, Sleeve, Left Back, Right Back, Sleeve, Right Front..
  • I have a selvedge stitch on each side of every row that is not on the chart.
  • All increases are on the odd rows (right side) but are NOT indicated on the charts.   I can use any version of M1 that I like.

THE INCREASES ARE WHAT I DON'T GET AT ALL.   Which row do I start them on?  Should I mark the charts so I know which row-- or make a list of which increases go on which rows?  If I don't use the shaping chart how will I know where to put them?    Please advise.  Right now I'm stuck in neutral.

THANK YOU!!!!

Hi.  The charts actually start with Row 1 so as you read the written instructions, refer to the charts to make sure you understand what's going on.  Yes, odd rows are right side (reading from right to left) and even rows are wrong side (left to right).  Be sure to "reverse" the color - white squares are knit on the RS and purl on the WS - but you know that, right? :)

The order is correct.  LF, sleeve, LB, RB, sleeve RF.  It really helps to make sure you back markers are different than your raglan markers - as the written instructions say.  I just put a small safety pin on my back markers - always gets my attention.  There has been a little confusion about the order, I think because folks are visualizing a garment that is made from the bottom up.  If you think about top down, you are knitting upside down from the neck to the hem so start with the LF.

The selvege stitch is actually ON the chart.  It's just not called or marked as a selvege stitch.  It just shows up as either a knit or purl.  Several people have decided to just ignore the selvege stitch and make it either a knit or a purl.  They feel that they get a better pick up edge that way.  So looking at the LF chart - row 29 - red line.  The first stitch is a purl.  OR you could slip it and treat it like a selvege stitch

Increases are actually on the chart, they are just not marked as M1.  They show up as an extra stitch on the row you are working on (jutting out from the row you just worked.  So look at the red line on LF, row 25.  Do you see the little jog to the right at the start of the row?  That's your M1.  I found that just using the charts (not that table) worked well.  You are correct, all of the increases are on the RS.  When you come back on the WS you will make them either a knit or a purl, depending on the chart.  I've seen many posts about the M1.  I personally like the EZ method - backward loop.  I never have holes and it's almost invisible.  But it is knitter's choice and it only has to please you.  So if you like the looks of your increased stitch, go for it.  To me, the most important thing is uniformity - do it the same way throughout. 

I took my charts and highlighted my lines.  The ipad folks have all kind of cool gizmos but I had a sharpie - and it worked ok.  I would suggest that you start at the TOP of the chart and trace your way down.  Red is the easiest to see (IMHO).  All of the little jogs are your increases.  See them?  i found that if I forgot to increase on row 1 of the 4 row pattern, I could sneak it in on row 2 and it looked fine. 

I hope this helps.  I'm almost done with my first sleeve and it was worth the headache of the first 30 rows.  They are the ones that require intense concentration.  After that, you learn the pattern and the shaping settles down and it just becomes FUN.  email me on Ravelry if you'd like

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 8:09 PM

Tambia:

Just got my yarn yesterday.  Using Knit Pics Swish superwash Merino.  Started swatching, yummy hand to the fabric!  Oh, how exciting!

 

Question:  Since this is a superwash, how do I treat the swatch?  Will I wash and lay flat to dry, or wash and dry?  Do you treat the swatch as you intend to treat the garment?

 

 

Hi.  the convention is to treat the swatch exactly as you plan to treat the garment.  I've been experimenting with superwash and haven't found anything that pleases me.  I will be interested to hear how you like this yarn. 

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 8:18 PM

Lindasma:

Hi all! I reread all the posts last night, after week-long computer problems. Thanks to all of you for your questions and solutions. You answered all the questionjs I had. Unfortunately, that raised new questions.

This is the first time I've worked with charts (other than a very basic fair isle hat) and I realized that I'd been doing things backwards. I was reading RS stitches left to right and WS from right to left. I panicked! and figured I'd just have to live it. It already took me a week to get to row 28 (lots of stitches on the largest size!) and I refused to rip everything out and start over. Then, about 1 am, I had an epiphany. Since the left and right sides (so far, anyway) are mirror images of one another, my OOPS really doesn't matter -- right?!?!

Please, someone reassure me that EGBOK (everything's gonna be OK). Here's a pic of my progress.

Hi.  You are correct - the shaping is mirror imaged.  I have wondered myself if the folks who were doing it "backwards" really have to rip.  When I look at your pic, the part that looks different are the divider stitches.  They look like "wrong side".  That being said, if you like it, maybe keep it.  However,  I'm wondering if it's going to get confusing when it's time to work the buttonholes ( have you SEEN those directions?).  I'm going to upload a pic (if I can) and we can see the difference. 

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cazknits wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 8:46 PM

I read through the posts, and I didn't see this question, but I may have missed it. If so, sorry if it's been asked and answered ...

When you divide for the body, it appears that the fronts stop on Row 71 (according to the charts) but the back sections go on for additional rows. The written instructions for that section say to continue to row 124 (for yellow). How is that possible? What happens to the fronts?

Thanks!

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ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 8:55 PM

I've been participating in the KAL without actually starting my Pan Am...until yesterday!  So, because I want to modify, I've marked charts and made plan. I don't think I've ever spent so much time preparing to start a project!!!  I've ripped my start 3 times so far, because either I did increases wrong, or wrong purl/knit combos, or bad increase choices.

Anyhow, only thru Row 8, but think I'm on my way this 4th attempt.

Because I cannot imagine following all the chart pages and enjoy myself, I've printed out my little 18 st/16 row repeat chart, and added a marker betw St. 18 and St. 1 of the repeated chevron where it appears in each of the body/sleeve sections. At least now I can track the pattern without several pages to look through, just one chart!

Well, cross my fingers.

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 9:18 PM

cazknits:

I read through the posts, and I didn't see this question, but I may have missed it. If so, sorry if it's been asked and answered ...

When you divide for the body, it appears that the fronts stop on Row 71 (according to the charts) but the back sections go on for additional rows. The written instructions for that section say to continue to row 124 (for yellow). How is that possible? What happens to the fronts?

Thanks!

Hi.  the charts for the backs continue past row 71 because you are going to continue to add shaping.  The charts for the sleeves and fronts stop at 71 because you are done with shaping and you are just repeating the pattern.  So you just keep repeating the pattern.  I don't know what size you are making but for me (yellow line) when I finished row 72, I simply started again with row 57.  Just kept repeating 57 through 72 as needed.  Same with the sleeve (when you get there).  can you see your pattern repeat?

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SoCalMeaghan wrote
on Jul 2, 2012 10:25 PM

dianajoknits:

cazknits:

I read through the posts, and I didn't see this question, but I may have missed it. If so, sorry if it's been asked and answered ...

When you divide for the body, it appears that the fronts stop on Row 71 (according to the charts) but the back sections go on for additional rows. The written instructions for that section say to continue to row 124 (for yellow). How is that possible? What happens to the fronts?

Thanks!

 

Hi.  the charts for the backs continue past row 71 because you are going to continue to add shaping.  The charts for the sleeves and fronts stop at 71 because you are done with shaping and you are just repeating the pattern.  So you just keep repeating the pattern.  I don't know what size you are making but for me (yellow line) when I finished row 72, I simply started again with row 57.  Just kept repeating 57 through 72 as needed.  Same with the sleeve (when you get there).  can you see your pattern repeat?

Thanks Dianajoknits for clearing this up. I'm nearing row 72 and was planning to ask this question myself. So, thank you, also, cazknits for asking. Off to continue past row 72 now...

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kpjohnston wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 12:07 AM

I'm only now replying but have been following the posts since Day 1. The outpouring of help has been amazing.  Anyone doing this project should read through all of them.  I'm on row 16 without any mistakes or real hardship because of everyone's questions and suggestions.  I've done alot of Aran knitting and agree that the charts could use editing, but this jacket is a 'must have'.  Imagine the excitement if you spot someone wearing it!  I'm in the Atlanta area and hope to run into a fellow KALr.

I'm working with Cascade's Eco Duo in a soft, almost heathered oatmeal. The undyed 70% baby alpaca blended with undyed 30% merino has a wonderful hand feel. It's a bit tricky with the near lace-tip Knitter's Pride Nova needles since the yarn will easily split on you, but with all the M1s it's easier to pick up the running bar. Like many of you, I've already 'tried on' the little bit that's knitted up (lol).

Again, many, MANY thanks to all those chics with sticks that have smoothed the road for the rest of us. Keep those pictures coming! :) KJ

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Posts 89
dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 12:42 AM

dianajoknits:

Lindasma:

Hi all! I reread all the posts last night, after week-long computer problems. Thanks to all of you for your questions and solutions. You answered all the questionjs I had. Unfortunately, that raised new questions.

This is the first time I've worked with charts (other than a very basic fair isle hat) and I realized that I'd been doing things backwards. I was reading RS stitches left to right and WS from right to left. I panicked! and figured I'd just have to live it. It already took me a week to get to row 28 (lots of stitches on the largest size!) and I refused to rip everything out and start over. Then, about 1 am, I had an epiphany. Since the left and right sides (so far, anyway) are mirror images of one another, my OOPS really doesn't matter -- right?!?!

Please, someone reassure me that EGBOK (everything's gonna be OK). Here's a pic of my progress.

I'm having success uploading and thought i would include a pic of my finished gusset.  Boy, did I need it.   

Hi.  You are correct - the shaping is mirror imaged.  I have wondered myself if the folks who were doing it "backwards" really have to rip.  When I look at your pic, the part that looks different are the divider stitches.  They look like "wrong side".  That being said, if you like it, maybe keep it.  However,  I'm wondering if it's going to get confusing when it's time to work the buttonholes ( have you SEEN those directions?).  I'm going to upload a pic (if I can) and we can see the difference. 

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imalulu wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 1:00 AM

Dianajo....your gusset looks fantastic.  How do you do a gusset like that?  Can you explain?  Lynne, aka imalulu

dianajoknits:
I'm having success uploading and thought i would include a pic of my finished gusset.  Boy, did I need it. 

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 1:22 AM

thanks.  simple explaination to start and if you need more details let me know.  when you divide for the sleeves and put your sleeve stitches on a thread, cast on 8 or 10 additional stitches between the divider stitches. so you will have K1 P1 (CO8 or 10) then P1 K1.  Decrease one stitch each side every 4th row.  I chose the WS so I could SSK and K2tog.  stop decreasing when you get to K1 P2 K1 - the regular divider stitches.  When you pick up for the sleeve you pick up those 8 to 10 stitches on the gusset and decrease them in the same way.  This gives you the other half of the diamond.  You notice that the right side of the gusset is purl - that way it sucks in instead of pooching out.  

 

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SusanD@96 wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 7:46 AM

dianajoknits:

Gusset update - started the sleeve and picked up 10 stitches for the gusset (8 on the other side) so my gusset is not totally symetrical but looks fine to me.  Trying this jacket on leads me to believe that I would have been very unhappy without the gusset.  The sleeves seem otherwise very small.  I'm wondering if another alternative (instead of gusset) would have been to make the sleeves one size larger than the body.  But the gusset seems to have done the trick and it looks nice. 

I was wondering the same thing.  Does anyone else have any thoughts on this--not making a gusset, but making the sleeves a size larger so everything is in pattern?

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marhar wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 8:35 AM

I have started 4 times and still do not like my M1s.  This last time, after looking at many of my knit books, I decided to put left needle through from front to back and for knit stitches, knit into the back of the stitch and for purl knit into the back of the stitch, so each one is twisted and not worry about which way the stitch is slanting.  This has prevented the holes I had before but am not sure I like the looks of it.  Would you suggest just doing knit in the front and back of each M1?  I cannot see how you can do that on the 3rd row, at the beginning and end, to make 4 stitches.  The pictures people have sent have looked beautiful and I would like them to share how that happened.  I feel myself getting obsessed!!  Thanks for any help you can give.  I am determined!!  Harmar

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toyelf wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:55 AM

Yay!  I'm so glad this pattern was picked - it's my first KAL, and will be my first item that I've knit for myself.  I'm really excited!  I have the magazine but haven't yet found the yarn, so I really appreciate everyone who's posting their yarn choices so I can get suggestions.

I'm late already, but hopefully I can catch up.  Thanks for starting this, Kathy, and I look forward to seeing everyone's WIP! :)

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ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:56 AM

SusanD@96:

I was wondering the same thing.  Does anyone else have any thoughts on this--not making a gusset, but making the sleeves a size larger so everything is in pattern?

 

I started all parts a size larger than I want, and waiting to see where I am along the way.  One of the concerns I had from the start was the really tall armhole height in schematic (armpit-to-top-of-shoulder). So I am also prepared to stop the raglan shaping and seperate sleeves from body earlier than per pattern.  Alternatively, I can always add some non-increase even rows if needed.  And then maybe add stitches with caston under arm for body width and better shaping (like the gusset idea).  So, hoping I'm prepared for anything, to avoid ripping back!

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