THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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Willyknit wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:57 AM

SusanD@96:

dianajoknits:

Gusset update - started the sleeve and picked up 10 stitches for the gusset (8 on the other side) so my gusset is not totally symetrical but looks fine to me.  Trying this jacket on leads me to believe that I would have been very unhappy without the gusset.  The sleeves seem otherwise very small.  I'm wondering if another alternative (instead of gusset) would have been to make the sleeves one size larger than the body.  But the gusset seems to have done the trick and it looks nice. 

 

I was wondering the same thing.  Does anyone else have any thoughts on this--not making a gusset, but making the sleeves a size larger so everything is in pattern?

I'm now on row 47 and am thinking the sleeves will be too tight.  I'm making the 33.5 and considering doing extra increases to get to the next size up just on the sleeves. 

 

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marhar wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 10:34 AM

Dianajoknits:  I love the picture of your sweater so far.  Please tell me how you did the M1s, as I don't see any holes.  Thanks.

harmar

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Posts 80
oxid8 wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 11:04 AM

marhar:

I have started 4 times and still do not like my M1s.  This last time, after looking at many of my knit books, I decided to put left needle through from front to back and for knit stitches, knit into the back of the stitch and for purl knit into the back of the stitch, so each one is twisted and not worry about which way the stitch is slanting.  This has prevented the holes I had before but am not sure I like the looks of it.  Would you suggest just doing knit in the front and back of each M1?  I cannot see how you can do that on the 3rd row, at the beginning and end, to make 4 stitches.  The pictures people have sent have looked beautiful and I would like them to share how that happened.  I feel myself getting obsessed!!  Thanks for any help you can give.  I am determined!!  Harmar

I thought about lifted increases and then tried them out.  That third row only gives one stitch to increase with so like the increase front and back it just wasn't going to work.  I went back to the pattern and saw that it was suggested to do make 1 knit and purl.  I played around and found that for me which way the stitch leaned didn't make a difference but if the stitch was supposed to be a knit it looked better as a make 1 knit and if it was supposed to be a purl then it looked like one if I made it a make 1 purl.  I just chose the left or right of each one (pick up from from front or back) that was easiest for me to do.  The stitches were still twisted to prevent holes.

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angios wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 12:58 PM

 

I am just starting this project.  I selected cascade 220 in summer sky heather.  I am a novice knitter, but with my daughter's and your help, I am diving in.  All your posts have been helpful.  I have read the directions over carefully and will make my swatch tonight.  This is my first knit along.  

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SusanD@96 wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 12:58 PM

ArtfulSoul:

SusanD@96:

I was wondering the same thing.  Does anyone else have any thoughts on this--not making a gusset, but making the sleeves a size larger so everything is in pattern?

 

 

I started all parts a size larger than I want, and waiting to see where I am along the way.  One of the concerns I had from the start was the really tall armhole height in schematic (armpit-to-top-of-shoulder). So I am also prepared to stop the raglan shaping and seperate sleeves from body earlier than per pattern.  Alternatively, I can always add some non-increase even rows if needed.  And then maybe add stitches with caston under arm for body width and better shaping (like the gusset idea).  So, hoping I'm prepared for anything, to avoid ripping back!

ArtfulSoul

Thank you ArtfulSoul for your answer. I also am hoping not to have to rip back again and am making my sleeves 1 size larger than my body size of 40, but not sure about this.  Am working slow due to other projects so you will finish long before me.  Will keep watching both here and rav for your progress.  Please keep me posted. 

Thanks

susan

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cazknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 1:38 PM

SoCalMeaghan:

dianajoknits:

cazknits:

I read through the posts, and I didn't see this question, but I may have missed it. If so, sorry if it's been asked and answered ...

When you divide for the body, it appears that the fronts stop on Row 71 (according to the charts) but the back sections go on for additional rows. The written instructions for that section say to continue to row 124 (for yellow). How is that possible? What happens to the fronts?

Thanks!

 

Hi.  the charts for the backs continue past row 71 because you are going to continue to add shaping.  The charts for the sleeves and fronts stop at 71 because you are done with shaping and you are just repeating the pattern.  So you just keep repeating the pattern.  I don't know what size you are making but for me (yellow line) when I finished row 72, I simply started again with row 57.  Just kept repeating 57 through 72 as needed.  Same with the sleeve (when you get there).  can you see your pattern repeat?

Thanks Dianajoknits for clearing this up. I'm nearing row 72 and was planning to ask this question myself. So, thank you, also, cazknits for asking. Off to continue past row 72 now...

Yes, many thanks Dianjoknits!

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Posts 89
dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 1:43 PM

I use eliz zimmermans make 1. I never get a hole so don't quite understand how others do. But its a simple backward loop on the right hand needle. Almost invisible. Y

marhar:

Dianajoknits:  I love the picture of your sweater so far.  Please tell me how you did the M1s, as I don't see any holes.  Thanks.

harmar

 

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Posts 15
toyelf wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 4:17 PM

I'm going with the Valley Yarns Williamstown worsted in merlot - can't wait to get my yarn and cast on! :)  I'm really excited, as this is my first KAL and I can't wait to learn from everyone! :)

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dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 7:50 PM

Willyknit:

SusanD@96:

dianajoknits:

Gusset update - started the sleeve and picked up 10 stitches for the gusset (8 on the other side) so my gusset is not totally symetrical but looks fine to me.  Trying this jacket on leads me to believe that I would have been very unhappy without the gusset.  The sleeves seem otherwise very small.  I'm wondering if another alternative (instead of gusset) would have been to make the sleeves one size larger than the body.  But the gusset seems to have done the trick and it looks nice. 

 

I was wondering the same thing.  Does anyone else have any thoughts on this--not making a gusset, but making the sleeves a size larger so everything is in pattern?

I'm now on row 47 and am thinking the sleeves will be too tight.  I'm making the 33.5 and considering doing extra increases to get to the next size up just on the sleeves. 

 

I've been thinking about the sleeves (while at work, of course).  Besides my unnatural love for gussets, the other reason I chose gusset over simply making the sleeve circumference bigger is that this sleeve is a tube - there is no taper of the sleeve from the armhole.  I wanted the sleeve to be fitted but also didn't want armhole pinch.  just something to keep in mind as you're planning.  Re: armhold depth:  it looks huge on the charts but let me tell you, for my version, it was very snug.  So try on to be sure.  Someone made a comment about making the sleeve bigger to stay in pattern (rather than a gusset) and it made me think about one more gusset thing.  If you've not put gussets in your sweaters before, you may not realize that when you are wearing the sweater, they don't show unless you lift your arm to show them off!  So the pic makes the gusset look very obvious but I did that for effect.  The gusset really receeds nicely on this jacket.  Of course, you can always knit something lovely in your gusset and raise your arms repeatedly to show it off.  LOL.  Lot's of great ideas about this jacekt.  Can't wait to see the results.  Just love the fact that so many things are knitter's choice. 

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nancymartin3 wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 8:26 PM

Hi - My name is Nancty.  I have been an avid knitter since I was in my teens.  I've had my eye on this pattern since it came out and am so happy to be tackling it.  I'm using yarn I got from KnitPicks - Full Circle 100% wool. Mocha is the color.  It was pretty inexpensive (I sell a lot of the items I knit so I don't want customers to freak out if I charge what they feel is too much - I'm a real pushover)  Anyway, I'm ready to get started.  

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CateM wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:05 PM

I also concluded after 9 rows (and did I meantion tons of sampling), that I don't like my M1L and M1R...and also I also mixed them up at time or two.

Dianajoknits said she used the E. Zimmerman  e loop method.  In researching this online,  some talk about mirrored or paired ez m1's. I suspect Dianajoknits is only using ONE kind of loop for her knit increases, no matter where they are. Is this correct?  What exactly are you using for purl increases? This is getting almost beyond nuts and like others am so tempted to just say, "ah forget it."  Does anyone want to buy some yarn?

If I could get a single k increase and purl increase that I like - maybe I could stay in the kal.  I tested the loop for knit increases and it looks good and doesn't seem to need that lean left, lean right distinction, and no hole. Is there an equivalent for the purl increases? What are you doing with them Dianajoknits?

Thanks,

Cate

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Posts 388
ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:19 PM

CateM:
If I could get a single k increase and purl increase that I like - maybe I could stay in the kal.

 

I personally selected to do M1 increases, without regard to slant, the way that for me they turn out "tighter".  ALL are lifted with LH needle from the back to the front (so that the back leg of lifted stitch is leading toward the right).  I either Purl or Knit into the Front leg, which automatically twists it closed pretty good.  My fabric right now is unblocked, so hard to see them.  But I'm happy, it feels consistent.

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Posts 89
dianajoknits wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 9:30 PM

CateM:

I also concluded after 9 rows (and did I meantion tons of sampling), that I don't like my M1L and M1R...and also I also mixed them up at time or two.

Dianajoknits said she used the E. Zimmerman  e loop method.  In researching this online,  some talk about mirrored or paired ez m1's. I suspect Dianajoknits is only using ONE kind of loop for her knit increases, no matter where they are. Is this correct?  What exactly are you using for purl increases? This is getting almost beyond nuts and like others am so tempted to just say, "ah forget it."  Does anyone want to buy some yarn?

If I could get a single k increase and purl increase that I like - maybe I could stay in the kal.  I tested the loop for knit increases and it looks good and doesn't seem to need that lean left, lean right distinction, and no hole. Is there an equivalent for the purl increases? What are you doing with them Dianajoknits?

Thanks,

Cate

Yes, EZ talks about the mirrored M1 for fussy knitters - that is not me.  I do only one kind of loop and I do the quickest one possible.  And it always seems to work.

Honestly,  I don't understand the whole knit increase and purl increase business. So I just ignored it.  I did all my increases on the RS using the EZ M1.   When I came to the "made" stitch on the WS, I just knit or purled depending on the pattern. 

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Posts 15
JudyG@11 wrote
on Jul 3, 2012 10:18 PM

mcradnor:

I've made it to row 28 and am trying to decide which cast on to use for adding the additional stitches. Any suggestions? This is what it looks like so far:

 

To mcradnor:  I've bben working on my Pan-Am while traveling this week, without great internet access...sorry for the late post.  My answer to your cast-on question was to add a second ball of yarn and cut the tail on the first.  My preferred method to start is a long-tail cast-on, so I did that after knitting row 27.  To explain further:  Knit row 27; turn your work as though you are going to knit row 28; do a long-tail cast-on for the required number of stitches onto your right-hand needle; still using the new ball of yarn, continue across to actually knit row 28, cutting the first yarn; then cast-on the required number of stitches at the end of row 28.  You now have new stitches to knit on row 29, in pattern.  I hope this makes sense.

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Posts 43
km.k33 wrote
on Jul 4, 2012 9:11 AM

CHARTS: I found one solution to linking the charts on one sheet of paper, at least for ROWS 1-27. I made a copy of each of the PDF charts; and cut them off just above row 27. I cut around the lines for my size. Then, I positioned each chart section in sequential order. I used glue stick to fasten them on one sheet of paper. I drew lines at every 4th line, in keeping with the pattern repeat, in order to link the same row from piece to piece. The thick  yellow line is repositionable marker tape, purchased at my LYS, that I use to keep track of what row I am on.

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