THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 10:30 AM

hennyknitting:

Any ideas? Is anyone else adding gussets to their Pan Am?

 

This jacket was designed without any underarm shaping, flat.  Simple, obviously it looks super on the model in the pattern photo! Knowing other types of garment construction, I know that adding some stitches to the underarm for body and sleeves adds a bit of shaping and ease, AND width to sleeves and body.  It's an option.

If you CO extra st between front and back at the underarm, and you think you need extra width in the body going forward, you do not have to eliminate them with a "gusset"!  The pattern does not have any side-seam shaping (only A-line back shaping), so you could do anything you like at the sides...extend the chevron pattern from fronts and back into the extra st, meeting at a center 4-st divider.  Or, put plain old 2x2 ribbing down the sides.  Or for wider hips, you could do A-line shaping there too.

Remember...if you add st to the body at the underarm, you MUST add those st to your sleeve...either by CO at the sleeve underarm (to seam later with the body), or pickup the body underarm st when joining sleeve in round to make it.  So then you will have to decide what to do with these extra stitches in sleeve.  Consider if you need the extra width in sleeve going all the way down, or gradually shape the sleeve slimmer, or do it quickly with the "gusset" shape idea?  Will you go forward with the 4-st divider, or join the chevron "seamlessly", etc?

What I have done... subject to ripping when I try on later today.  I compromised for the sake of having enough "ease", and CO just 6 underarm st betw fronts and back after putting sleeves aside. I had 2 of the divider st from front, then added 6, then 2 of divider st from back.  I do not need extra width for fronts or back going forward.  So decided to decr quickly, just made it all stockinette with paired slanting decr every RS row betw the divider st, so that when done, I had the 4 divider st to mark the "sides".

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imalulu wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 10:56 AM

hennyknitting:
Dianajoknits, you were mentioning that to make sure to purl the RS of the gusset, which I am doing. Then decrease on the WS only, using SSK and K2tog, which I understood as 'knit' the WS.

hennyknitting:
anyone else adding gussets to their Pan Am?

Did I miss something?  I haven't seen any post where dianajoknits explains about the gussets.  I am thinking of making them, but have never done them.  I am currently on row 26 of the jacket.  Lynne, aka imalulu

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marygaring wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 12:39 PM

I'm also working on the gussets and think that they are the best way to go because, they won't interfer with the lines of the jacket.  When the gussets are complete the pattern is back to the way it was written,  and yes to answer your question  imalulu, look on post 47, she has a great explanation and photo.

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marygaring wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 12:45 PM

I'm sorry I foregot to mention on page 19.

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imalulu wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 1:25 PM

marygaring:

I'm sorry I foregot to mention on page 19.

Is this what you are referring to?  If so, I guess I'm not at the right place in the pattern, yet, for this to help me understand how to make the gussets.  Lynne, aka imalulu

"The gusset is done and I am pleased with the results.  The designer's join for the sleeve underarm is very nice - but no wiggle room at all.  When I saw the size of the opening, I decided on a gusset.  Yes, the knitted fabric is very stretchy and I think my arm would have fit.  But I like the extra room.  SO - I added 8 additional stitches, decreasing them down every fourth row until I had the "original" 4 divider stitches.  I will pick up these stitches on the sleeve side and make a full gusset when I get there.  You could actually do a provisional cast on of the additional 8 stitches and then you don't have to pick up any stitches but it wasn't worth it for me given that I wasn't even sure I would keep the gusset."

 

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on Jul 7, 2012 5:46 PM

Do you purl on the outside of the garment and knit on the inside of the gusset? I have ripped it again, so no pic. I am considering to do it the other way around, knit on the outside (RS), purl on WS, decrease - SSK & K2tog - on RS). In may later attempts I started making the gusset smaller, 8 stitches, and am now considering decreasing every 2nd round. What are your thoughts?

dianajoknits:

sorry to hear u r having trouble. does yours look like my pic?  can you upload a pic of yours? my sleeves are done and gusset does not pooch out at all.  lets see if we can figure this out  

 

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on Jul 7, 2012 6:14 PM

Thank you for your explanation, ArtfulSoul. From this and your previous posts I realise that you are an experienced (and creative) knitter.

I am working on the smallest size (for my daughter), who is actually a little smaller than the model, and the knitted pattern is very stretchy, true. But for a very active person (my daughter works with young children) it looks too tight to me under the arm.

From your pic I see that your stitches under the arm are 'knit', and they do 'pull in', even though it would be nice to use 'purl' as it would then just appear as a widening of the divider stitches.

All in all the gusset solution is a very simple one, especially when all that is needed is a little more room under the arm, and not re-shaping of the arm altogether.

- Henny

 

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on Jul 7, 2012 6:47 PM

imalulu:

hennyknitting:
Dianajoknits, you were mentioning that to make sure to purl the RS of the gusset, which I am doing. Then decrease on the WS only, using SSK and K2tog, which I understood as 'knit' the WS.

hennyknitting:
anyone else adding gussets to their Pan Am?

Did I miss something?  I haven't seen any post where dianajoknits explains about the gussets.  I am thinking of making them, but have never done them.  I am currently on row 26 of the jacket.  Lynne, aka imalulu

 

The detailed explanation on how dianajoknits makes her gussets is on page 35. It is in the top post as an answer to my question to her about them.

- Henny

 

 

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Posts 18
on Jul 7, 2012 6:50 PM

marygaring:

I'm also working on the gussets and think that they are the best way to go because, they won't interfer with the lines of the jacket.  When the gussets are complete the pattern is back to the way it was written,  and yes to answer your question  imalulu, look on post 47, she has a great explanation and photo.

 

Hi marygaring,

Have a look at page 35. At the top of the page is the detailed description of how dianajoknits makes the gussets.

- Henny

 

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marygaring wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 8:17 PM

Thanks Henny,  I first noticed it on page 19, but 35 is a better explanation.  I hope it works for you, my body gussets look great, and I'm sure when I pick up a finish the arms it will be just what was needed for my jacket.

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imalulu wrote
on Jul 7, 2012 8:53 PM

hennyknitting:

 

The detailed explanation on how dianajoknits makes her gussets is on page 35. It is in the top post as an answer to my question to her about them.

- Henny

Thank you so much, Henny.  I did miss that and have it now.  Thanks again.  Lynne, aka imalulu

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Hulinea wrote
on Jul 8, 2012 4:23 AM

HI Henny and everyone else

Thanks for the welcome.  Just a sidebar, Henny, I have tried to reply to your msg - but when I click send it has a little red cross beside your name.  Tried it from my ipad and pc - no good! 

Hulinea

hulinea@gmail.com

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Posts 18
on Jul 8, 2012 6:20 AM

Hulinea:

HI Henny and everyone else

Thanks for the welcome.  Just a sidebar, Henny, I have tried to reply to your msg - but when I click send it has a little red cross beside your name.  Tried it from my ipad and pc - no good! 

Hulinea

hulinea@gmail.com

Hi Hulinea,

msg? i do not have that. Henny  (perhaps Skype?)

<hennybeckert@gmail.com>

 

 

 

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JanC@30 wrote
on Jul 8, 2012 12:46 PM

Thanks all for gusset help. HOWEVER it seems I still need help. According to the previous posted gusset help, I divided my stitches after completing row 51. Isn't that correct for the smallest size?  "the I structio s for the gusset said "you will then work that same row. It's a RS row.". But haven't I worked to row 52 which is a wro g side row?  And if so, when do I cast on those gusset stitches?  I appreciate any and all help. You are all amazing!

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Posts 388
ArtfulSoul wrote
on Jul 8, 2012 1:12 PM

JanC@30:

Thanks all for gusset help. HOWEVER it seems I still need help. According to the previous posted gusset help, I divided my stitches after completing row 51. Isn't that correct for the smallest size?  "the I structio s for the gusset said "you will then work that same row. It's a RS row.". But haven't I worked to row 52 which is a wro g side row?  And if so, when do I cast on those gusset stitches?  I appreciate any and all help. You are all amazing!

 

The row where you work across, and then put sleeve stitches on holder to be worked later, is the same row that you Cast On your underarm stitches for gusset.  So whether it is RS or WS, work across front to raglan divider, then work 2 of the divider st.  Put next 2 divider st and sleeve, plus following 2 divider st onto holder. Then CO your desired gusset st (I used backwards thumb method.  Then continue working across the next 2 raglan dividers and all the Back st, work next 2 divider st.  Put next 2 divider st and sleeve, plus following 2 divider st onto holder.  Then CO your gusset st, continue working across the final 2 raglan dividers and other front.

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