I just bought this book, and it's very beautiful and has lots of information about hand-dyed yarn and lovely sock patterns. However, as someone who simply cannot work with fingering weight yarn on size 0 and 1 needles, I am disappointed that none of the patterns are written for, or have alternate insturctions for, slightly heavier yarn. Yes, most "sock yarn" is fingering weight -- but there are lots of lovely handpainted yarns out there in sport, dk and even worsted weights, and I'm probably not the only person who likes to knit socks with them. It might take more math skill than I have to turn patterns written for a 60 stitch sock or a 72 stitch sock into a 40 or 44 stitch sock.
I haven't had an oportunity to see this book yet so good to hear your feedback. Sorry it wasn't of more use to you...that is soooo frustrating when that happens!!!
I did make one pr of socks fr that book...the ones that were in IK Winter 2008 magazine..."Herringbone Rib Socks". As to those...they really wouldn't be suitable done in a heavier yarn...especially not a ww in my opinion. They have sort of "surface loops" as part of the pattern. In a thicker yarn I would be afraid those loops would be catching on everything. I'm guessing that a lot of patterns may not translate well into thicker yarns for a variety of reasons. The cover socks look as though they might fr what I can see.
Perhaps you can take some of the info discussed in the book + use it as a guidline when looking for patterns.
There are a lot fewer patterns out there for heavier sock wts. Last year I got a few balls of Regia 6 ply + wanted to find a free pattern to use as my 1st try w/ this yarn...then I'de write my own once I had an idea of results. Took a bit of looking but finally did track one down that worked w/ a bit of tweaking! With the cold weather lately...the extra thickness is nice!!!
ps: maybe you could find something here that would work for you?
links to 601 free sock patts + 23 legwarmers
Hi Andrea -- thanks for the feedback, and the great link! I'm going to attempt to adapt the "Spot Check Socks" pattern from the book to my preferred guage, but you're right, not all of them would work well. By the way -- did you think the socks in the cover picture look sort of baggy at the back of the ankle? They're handsome socks, but if that's the way they're designed to fit I don't think I would like wearing them. Still, the book has lots of good information about yarns and I'm sure I will get some inspiration from the patterns, even if I have to adapt them.
I hadn't really noticed the "baggy @ the back" in my tiny pic of the cover w/ the magazine pattern. It might be because of the way the model has her foot bent so "hard back" or just that they are new-never-washed? I know I put all my socks in the dryer...so try to size them based on the after-wash size. Before washing they are a bit looser. I like my socks snug but not tight. Socks are one thing I don't bother w/ a gauge swatch. I've made so many that I've been lucky about "guesstimating" so far. The Herringbone Rib Socks were the first pair that I've had come in @ quite a bit off gauge...+ they are are BIT tight pulling them on. OK once on though!!! I didn't use the called for yarn...but then I seldom do. Actually I only started them to help someone else sort out the directions...then decided I might as well keep going. Had I planned better...I would have done my usual + gone up 1 needle size. I knit snug but not tight.
I'm wondering on your behalf...would those "William Street Socks" fr here in the "5 free sock pattern book" be anything of interest to you? They are done w/ Regia 6 ply + 3.25mm N's so not tiny fingering @ least !!! If you were using handpaint yarn...I'de guess those front cables would distort the colors in a different pattern fr the rest of the sock. You'de get 3 different areas...the rib/ the cable patt/ and the st st sole. Toe-up socks are NOT my favorite as I like to replace heels + sometimes feet later on down the road. Top-down is more workable for that. Right now I'm doing another Mens 6 ply pr w/ the sole knit separately but joined. When I get to the ankle I keep going w/ the instep but stop @ the toe. Then I go back...work the heel + the sole. Then I rejoin all the sts + work the toe. A flat seam up the sides + you can't even tell the odd construction. In several yrs I can remove toe/ sole/ heel easily + save my work in the leg + instep. New foot bottom = new socks again!!! Not as good for variegated/ hand painted yarns.
I will keep my eyes open for the book to see the "Spot Check" pattern you mentioned. The cover socks reminded me a bit of the "Jaywalker socks" I made some time ago...but plainer.
I've just ordered this book and I am now wondering if it was a good idea or not! I too like to knit socks in thicker wools, usually dk. I have recently been making up a lot of socks from Cat Bordhi's book, New Pathways for Sock Knitters, which is great for knitters like us, as Cat works from master patters and charts which give you all the numbers for gauges from 4.5 stitches per inch to 9.5 stiches per inch. Oh well!
What about trying a pattern for a smaller size foot (so less stitches) but use the bigger yarn?
Also, Sensational Knitted Socks by Charlene Schurch has a whole range of #stitches and sizes that may help you out. (The math is already done!)