Simply Sockupied Knit-along: Ann's Go-To Socks

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npaprocki wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 6:26 AM

This video really did the trick.  Thanks for finding it.

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npaprocki wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 6:28 AM

Yes, I was trying to see just the beginning ... how she was holding the yarn just to get started on the cast-on

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ced6 wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 6:42 AM

I bought some cheap yarn (well, really not so cheap price-wise, but all I could find quality-wise) at the local craft store to try out my first sock and keep up with everyone. However, I'd like to get some quality yarn for my next pair of socks. Can anyone recommend an online yarn store that might be having a sale going on?

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Ginny@45 wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 8:47 AM

Hi ced6,

I like patternworks.com, jimmybeanswool.com, and knitpicks.com.  They all offer good quality yarn.  Happy knitting!

Ginny

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BJanty wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 10:38 AM

I love all things "Sockupied".  I am trying Amy's Go To Socks".  I have only made one pair of socks, but, I want to learn more!

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maigheoyank wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 10:52 AM

Greetings Ced6,

In addition to those already mentioned I find great bargains at Webs:  www.yarn.com.

They seem to specialize in odd lots and discontinued colors.  They have frequent sales, an ongoing yarn closeout section, and "grandpa's garage sale." You can shop by manufacturer, fiber or weight.  It is a fabulous website. 

~Suzann

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loanrho wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 12:10 PM

Hi!  I'm Lois. I'm a fairly new knitter.  This is my first KAL and my first pair of socks!  I'm so excited.  I've chosen Ann's Go-To Socks so I can get a feel for the mechanics of sock knitting.  I would really like to learn and use the Magic Loop method, but may just stick with dpn's since that's how the pattern is written.   

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Anne Merrow wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 3:05 PM

lcdeakers:
The ball of foot measurement for me is 9" and the sock length I want is 10 " . Calf circumference at 10" on my leg is 12". What kind of adjustment do I need to make? Thanks, Lynne from Huntington Beach, CA

Hi, Lynne!  The adjustments you'll need to make depend so much on the sock pattern and your personal preferences that there isn't a one-size-fits-all answer. I can offer you some suggestions, and I'd love to know how they work out!

First, if the ball of your foot is 9", you probably want to make the 8 1/2" size (because the socks will stretch). One way to find out might be to measure a pair of socks that fits you well.

You'll still want negative ease in the calf, so I suggest casting on 11 1/2" of stitches, or about 16 extra stitches for a total of 88. (It will need to be a multiple of 4 stitches.) Work in pattern for an inch or so, then try on the sock to see whether it fits well. (You'll need to transfer the stitches onto a length of waste yarn to try them on, then put them back on the needles.) It should be snug enough to stay up but not too tight. If it's too loose, you can try another multiple of 4 until you get the right fit.

(I'm putting the info below for a more comprehensive answer, but you don't need to worry about it right away--just get the calf to fit first.)

The tricky part is figuring out where to eliminate the extra stitches. Our ankles tend to be a little narrower than our calves; the ribbing helps draw in the fabric, and Ann Budd suggests using different size needles for a looser fit where needed. Still, that won't decrease 2 inches. I can think of two ways to do it:

1. The easiest way is probably to decrease the extra stitches as you work down the leg, until there are 72 stitches at the ankle (or as many as needed for a good fit there). Mirrored decreases around the back of the leg would look nice. With the round starting at the back of the leg, work K3, p1, ssk; continue in pattern to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.

Again, the rate of decrease depends on your own leg; do your legs get narrow quickly or gradually? That will determine how many plain rounds you work between decrease rounds. Work the decrease rounds as many times as you need for the sock to fit in the ankle.

2. Another place to change the stitch count is in the heel. Making the heel flap taller or shorter changes the number of stitches that you'll pick up along the sides of the heel flap, and you can decrease as much as you want in the gusset. (I know, this probably sounds like Greek...) Holler when you get there.

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HeidiNP wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 6:24 PM

Hi everyone. My name is Heidi and I live in Seattle. I have made a Christmas stocking, but no socks. I am going to use some Cascade Heritage sock yarn from my stash, mixing a couple of shades of blue/green.

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pladle wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 10:03 PM

I'm new to this KAL concept and don't know about forums, threads and blogs. Guess I gotta get out more! and, Do I Use the "insert media" button when I'm ready to post a photo?

Anyway, I would like to join you knitting Ann's go to socks. I have a ball of Plymouth's "Zino" I don't know the color name I would call the shades rust, brass and soft blue-grey and it has a continuous tweed. it is a wool and nylon blend. I think it will knit up pretty

 I don't have any half size needles so will have to decide how to make the adjustments when I finish my gauge swatch (s)

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djahorne wrote
on Mar 1, 2012 11:45 PM

Hi Everyone!

It has taken me two days to knit swatches. Two days ago I knitted my first swatch. My yarn calls for a 2.0 or 3.0 size needle, so I thought I would try the 2.0 size and see if I could hit the guage. Well, it came out to be 4 1/2 inches instead of 4 inches.

Today I sat down this evening and worked on another swatch using a size 1.0 needle. Sure enough I was able to hit the guage of 4 inches right on the nose. I wanted to thank the person that posted the youtube video,  because I was having a hard time trying to understand the cast on here. I was planning on going to youtube and doing some searching myself, but you have saved me the extra time. I have never used such small yarn. I have only knitted with worsted weight or cotten, so it took me a more then several rows of working my swatch to get the hang of knitting with such small yarn and small needles.

I am looking forward to in the morning, because that is when I plan on casting on for my first pair of socks. I am looking forward to see others photo's as they start to progress through their socks.

Janice from Ridgecrest, Ca.

 

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cekoons wrote
on Mar 2, 2012 5:00 AM

Greetings! If  you're just beginning, I would HIGHLY recommend the Magic Loop method, go to Youtube and watch a video (the nice lady there will show you over and over and over!!!) I learned on DPN's when I was a child, so  I kinda of stick to them, but the Magic Loop is really kewl and easy in many ways, good luck and happy knitting!

 

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cekoons wrote
on Mar 2, 2012 5:02 AM

http://www.knitpicks.com/knitting.cfm

They have some lovely yarns and regularly run sales, I've been very happy with their service. You don't have any yarn shops in your area? Happy knitting!

 

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npaprocki wrote
on Mar 2, 2012 7:10 AM

OK, I know I'm going to get stumped tonite while I'm watching TV and working on my socks.  I don't understand the HEEL instructions at all. 

For simplicity sake I'm going to refer to the stitches listed outside of the parenthesis.

What does "Set-up Row 1" and "2" mean? 

I've cast on 56 stitches.  Now the directions for the heel say it is worked on 28 stitches over back of leg.

To work Set up Row 1 I'm working 14 stitches 3 times (that's 42 stitches... already exceeding the 28 st).  Do I work the pattern 3 times and then do the k2 when I'm finished.  That's how I'm reading the pattern.  Or (this makes more sense to me) I knit the pattern for 14 st and then k2, and repeat that 3 times?  Which comes to 48 st. total.

I see where Set-up row 2 uses only 28 stitches  And I see the remaining stitches (28) equals the total of my cast on stitches....

OK  the more I write and try to dissect these instructions, the more I don't understand them.  I don't see any videos in the e-book or and other instructions in the book helping me figure this out? 

Thanxs for any help

 

 

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Shaggylinus wrote
on Mar 2, 2012 7:40 AM

I have never used the magic loop, but it looks fun to try.  When you use that method are you still supposed to use 2 sizes of needs. For example,  on the dpn I use size 2 for the ribbing then switch off to size 1 dpn.  If you do switch, how do you go about transferring the stitches over?  I have just watched the one video on you tube someone suggested on here.  Does anyone else have any advice or techniques on using the magic loop method?  Thanks!  Renée

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