THE OFFICIAL PAN-AM JACKET KNIT-ALONG POST

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cherylk8 wrote
on Aug 24, 2012 9:00 PM

I'm really late to this party, but already have worked to row 20. After seeing all the beautiful Pan Am jackets I'm really inspired to finish mine, but probably not on the KAL timeline. I'm using Vanna's Choice in sapphire blue. It's left from another project, so I need to use it up. I'm on a yarn diet this year--only allowing myself to buy yarn if I have used up an equal number of skeins from stash. I've read through all the postings several times, and they are so helpful. Thanks so much for the advice.

Cheryl

 

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Posts 6
on Aug 24, 2012 10:14 PM

cherylk8:

I'm really late to this party, but already have worked to row 20. After seeing all the beautiful Pan Am jackets I'm really inspired to finish mine, but probably not on the KAL timeline. I'm using Vanna's Choice in sapphire blue. It's left from another project, so I need to use it up. I'm on a yarn diet this year--only allowing myself to buy yarn if I have used up an equal number of skeins from stash. I've read through all the postings several times, and they are so helpful. Thanks so much for the advice.

Cheryl

 

 

I'm even later to this party, I haven't done my swatch gauge at all yet.  It's been a crazy busy summer, but I do have a question regarding the ease on this jacket.  I'm making it for my daughter.  Her bust measurement is 35", waist is 28", hips 35" but fullest part of thigh/rear end area is 39".  If I use the measurement of 20 1/2" down from the neck that falls at her hips where it measures 38" around.  She likes her sweaters to be fitted more than loose or baggy, and felt that the 37 1/2" was a bit big.  I do not want to have to figure this out to fit a 36" bust measurement.  Does anyone know what the amount of ease is for this sweater? 

I am using Knit Picks Dove Heather in Wool of the Andes, and love the color.  I sure hope I get to start this soon.  Are there any time frames for when this KAL will close? 

Thanks for any and all help!  :o)  Wendy

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BritishLass wrote
on Aug 25, 2012 5:53 AM
I'm so glad for this KAL, even if it's nearly over....thanks to all of you who advised me on gauge, I've now started three times, but am now at row 14, and feel like I'm on my way. The pattern is beginning to show which makes it much easier!
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imalulu wrote
on Aug 25, 2012 4:53 PM

imalulu:

 I have decided to do the continous border before finishing my sleeves.  I have the body done and finished one sleeve to where we start the roman rib, but the sleeve length seems a bit off to me.  So, I decided I can get a better "feel" for my sleeve length once I have the rest of the jacket done.  So, I'm right with you, mmorris...lets see how we do.

 

Lynne aka imalulu

 

So, trouble right away on the continous border.  I followed the designer's directions exactly for size 44 3/4 and I get 3 sts more than the directions say on the very first row!!  I'm going to go back and "fudge" to start with the number of stitches that the pattern says.  Did anyone ever answer if you should knit/purl the extra M1 sts at the corners in pattern or ???  

Lynne, aka imalulu    P.S.  Looks to me (the way I read the pattern) that 8 sts will be increased on each of the M1 rows....but some of you read it as six?

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ArtfulSoul wrote
on Aug 25, 2012 6:29 PM

imalulu:

So, trouble right away on the continous border.  I followed the designer's directions exactly for size 44 3/4 and I get 3 sts more than the directions say on the very first row!!  I'm going to go back and "fudge" to start with the number of stitches that the pattern says.  Did anyone ever answer if you should knit/purl the extra M1 sts at the corners in pattern or ???  

Lynne, aka imalulu    P.S.  Looks to me (the way I read the pattern) that 8 sts will be increased on each of the M1 rows....but some of you read it as six?

 

I think there is more than one way of approaching the miter corners?  You can try to achieve a Knit st running down the center, and incr each side of it.  You can try to maintain an even pattern (divisible by 2) and add a purl on one side of marker, a knit on the other.  As the roman rib seemed like such a busy pattern, and I don't like the gap created by MI over a purl bump, I decided to not stress about it, and simply do a K1-f/b on ea side of a corner marker. On the next round, the new st become the knit or purl according to pattern.  At least in my yarn, it looks great. 

As for the number of incr, for proper miter, each corner should have a pair of increases, one on ea side of marker or knit st, =8 st.  Even after seperating to work buttonhole break, you'll want an incr on ea end of the collar (=2) plus incr in all corners of the rest (=6), to maintain the mitered corners...they will meet again!

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cherylk8 wrote
on Aug 26, 2012 1:21 PM

Two quick,or not so quick questions. I'm on row 30, and just realized that I did the raglan and center back dividing stitches backwards!! There is a two stitch welt along the raglans and center back, not the two rows of st st divided by a row of reverse st st. I would hate to rip the whole thing apart, so I'm wondering if I just turned it inside out--what I have marked as the right side (with the welt) would be the inside, and new outside would have the dividing stitches correct, but the pattern would be offset by 8 rows. Anyone else have such a lapse of concentration. My only excuse is that I was watching a movie when I started this. And I did read all the posts that said to have enought time to devote to correctly setting up the pattern. Oh well.

On another note, when doing the M1 stitches, are they always in pattern? I'm trying to wrap my head around this so I don't have to keep looking at the charts on every increase row.

Thanks so much for all your help.

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Gina4462 wrote
on Aug 26, 2012 7:43 PM

Had to start again.  I finally feel like I know what I'm doing.  Because I never work w/ charts I forgot that you read from left to right on wrong side rows.  Oops.  Oh, well.  Now I'm on row 22.  Hopefully things will go smoothly from here on out.  I'm tired of starting over.

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imalulu wrote
on Aug 26, 2012 10:23 PM

cherylk8:

Two quick,or not so quick questions. I'm on row 30, and just realized that I did the raglan and center back dividing stitches backwards!! There is a two stitch welt along the raglans and center back, not the two rows of st st divided by a row of reverse st st. I would hate to rip the whole thing apart, so I'm wondering if I just turned it inside out--what I have marked as the right side (with the welt) would be the inside, and new outside would have the dividing stitches correct, but the pattern would be offset by 8 rows. Anyone else have such a lapse of concentration. My only excuse is that I was watching a movie when I started this. And I did read all the posts that said to have enought time to devote to correctly setting up the pattern. Oh well.

On another note, when doing the M1 stitches, are they always in pattern? I'm trying to wrap my head around this so I don't have to keep looking at the charts on every increase row.

Thanks so much for all your help.

 

On your first qestion....I think turning it inside our would work just fine.  I am on the continuous border right now (and actually wondering if I am doing row 7 of it right, right now).   I did the

M1s in pattern.  Looks good.

Lynne, aka imalulu

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Posts 43
km.k33 wrote
on Aug 27, 2012 2:15 PM

The pattern is symmetrical. It's OK if you read right to left or left to right...the result is the same.

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km.k33 wrote
on Aug 27, 2012 2:31 PM

My experience so far is that this stitch pattern produces a very stretchy fabric. I started with the 33 1/2" size to fit my shoulders (I'm 5'1"); then I increased to the 37 1/2" size and knitted extra rows in pattern before dividing for sleeves and body in order to lower the opening for the sleeve and increase the sleeve circumference, and to accommodate my 36" bust. I also considered  that I will want to layer. After all, it is a jacket. As the weather gets cooler I will wear with a sweater and probably a scarf. When I block it will shrink slightly giving a closer fit.

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km.k33 wrote
on Aug 27, 2012 2:36 PM

The stitch pattern is symmetrical. If you read the charts right to left or left to right, the pattern is the same.

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km.k33 wrote
on Aug 27, 2012 2:38 PM

Keep it up....it's worth it. It definitely gets easier as you get more experience knitting the stitch pattern.

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km.k33 wrote
on Aug 28, 2012 2:47 PM

Progress Report:

I used a circular interchangeable needle 2 sizes smaller to knit ribbing. I frogged my first attempt. I re-knit the ribbing with the addition of a row of purl stitches before I knit the ribbing pattern. The purl stitch row adds a finished demarcation between the body pattern and the rib pattern.

I used a different technique. I worked  a purl row. I worked 10 rows in the border pattern on the right side circularly. Then at the point for the button hole, I worked alternately on right and wrong side continuing the pattern back and forth from one end of the button hole, all around the border to the other side of the buttonhole. At the point were the buttonhole is closed, I then knit circularly around the border on the right side.

I just have to finish the right side, then the facing.

 

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Kaffers wrote
on Aug 28, 2012 3:05 PM

Nice neat button hole!  I think I will have to fix mine when I sew down the facing.  I seem to be ok with the Continuous border although I am winging the facing as the instructions stop before the facing does....I'm glad I saw that earlier in posts so that I was not surprised or perplexed when I got to it.  I stopped the sleeves because I want to make them full length and I ordered more yarn.  I am enjoying the anticipation of finishing this - its all I want to do...knit!!Big Smile 

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CateM wrote
on Aug 28, 2012 7:12 PM

I did the sleeve facings in ss and in a different, slightly finer yarn. I haven't sewn it down yet (live stitches? right) but I like it this way.

 

cate

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