How do you do K1, P1 when you are knitting in the round? I am sure this is so simple I'll be embarrassed for asking, but I'm not sure if I knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches, or vice versa... please help me, it's getting cold and I want to make myself some lovely warm wool socks!
Don't ever be embarrassed by asking ???'s... that's how we learn.
If a pattern is written to be worked in the round...just follow the directions.
If you are converting a flat pattern/ back + forth to work it in the round ( ie: taking a separate sweater front + back and working them in the round w/ no side seams)....then you would work right side rows as given in the original pattern. Wrong side rows are worked opposite to what they say. If you think about it, the back side of knit is purl...right?
So if the WS row of a pattern says to knit the 1st 4 sts...+ you are actually working looking @ the RS of the work (as you always are in the round) then you would need to purl the 1st 4 sts so that they would be knit sts if you looked @ the WS side of the work. As well, you would be coming fr the opposite side when reading the directions on WS rows.
I know this sounds complicated...but it really isn't. The light bulb will go on when you try it!!!
Let's keep it simple here. You want to make socks in the round + are concerned about doing K1 P1 rib. Just make sure you cast on an even # of sts + join w/o twisting. You will just keep going around + around doing K1P1 for as long as you want the rib...EASY!!! The same as knitting rib flat...you will knit above a knit + purl above a purl. I always prefer knitting in the round...fewer seams/finishing!!!
Hope this makes sense. If I wasn't clear enough...feel free to ask me to explain better!
Take Care, Andrea
Thanks - I'm going to go try again... I'm not sure what I did, but it definitely wasn't K1, P1 rib! The problem I have it that the pattern doesn't really specify - it just says to "work in k1, p1, rib for 12 rows, the switch to larger needles and work in stockinette stitch for 6 inches". So I was sort of trying to swatch k1 p1 rib, but it kept coming out differently, depending on whether I was *attempting* :-) to work in the round or working flat. (I have now started and ripped three times....) Anyway, as I said, I'm going to try again, and perhaps the 4th time's the charm? Thanks again for your input!
If you are finding a difference when you work in the round vs flat...it sounds as though you have an uneven # of sts.
An uneven # of sts will NEVER work in the round for k1 p1 !!!
Think about it..you start every rnd with a knit st + end with a purl..if you have an even # sts. That sets you up to start the next rnd with a knit st again.
If you have an uneven # sts...you start with a knit st but you also end with a knit st...uneven # sts. That gives you a problem because you need to work a knit st to start the next rnd...but to continue the pattern as you've established...you would actually need a purl st next.
Always have an even # of sts to work k1p1 rib in the rnd.
You can work some uneven #'s in the rnd. eg: k2p1 = a multiple of 3 sts around.
Take Care + good luck, Andrea
Never be afraid to 'cheat'. After casting on 200+ stitches in the round, and even after counting and double checking, and coming to the end of the first round of ribbing and either coming up with 1 extra or 1 too few, after double checking that I didn't make a mistake, I just make a stitch or knit 2 together and move on. It wont be noticeable (I tend to increase by knitting into the stitch below which hardly shows at all). And if I find a mistake, I can often fix it without ripping back (though I am very familiar with tinking - sometimes it just has to be done). It's not too hard to change a knit to a purl or vice versa. I have even ripped out a pattern group of twelve stitches and 're-knit' them. But if I really feel the need to tink quite a few rows, then I just pull out the needle(s), tink back until I have 2 rows left to unknit, put all the stitches back on the needle, without regard to whether they are on the needle right or not, and then unknit a row or two which will set the stitches on the needle correctly. I have been knitting for a very long time and I look at mistakes as a challenge - annoying to waste time fixing but everyone has to fix now and again. I learned long ago to take mistakes in stride. If correcting mistakes drove me crazy then I would have quit knitting long ago. I knew someone who if they made a mistake 60 rows into a pattern, she would rip the entire thing out and start over again. She gave up on knitting.
Never be afraid to ask - we all need some help occasionally. No matter if I've been knitting forever, I love it when I learn a new trick or technique from another knitter. A shop owner, who had learned to knit in Switzerland, once mentioned to me that she knits socks by knitting into the back of every stitch. That is, whether knit or purl, twist the stitch when you make it. I had never heard of that but I tried it and the socks had a really great texture. (When I turned the heel, I didn't twist since that is the most challenging part for me, but it would strengthen the heel to twist the stitches). Knitting that way will alter the gauge so swatching is important. Sometimes I just swatch new techniques for the challenge and learning potential. Now that I think about it, I think stitches can be twisted by wrapping the yarn the 'wrong' way rather than knitting into the back of the stitch - I'll have to swatch some and see if both ways create the same thing.
Just in case you don't know what tinking is - TINK is the opposite of KNIT. Get it? Have fun!