Thanks Anne, I think it makes since, I need to get my band finished this weekend so I can try it out.
Janet
I have decided to knit in the round now as well. I have finally finished the bottom band and decided not to have a seam at the side, but to have it at center back. What does everybody think of that? Do you think it is going to matter if I block the sweater after it is totally finished?
Thanks
Henrietta
rockync: Thank you to all for the kind comments. Debbie and Janet, here is how I created the seam. Once I had my stitches picked up on the band, which did not come out with the number in the instructions, I subtracted the number of decreases I needed so that I would have the correct number of stitches by the time I got to the point where I had to separate the front and back. I wanted the decreases to go gradually and I wanted to create a "seam". According to my stitches, I had to decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row. By the time I was done, I was at around row 60 and had to continue to row 72. My blouse is going to be a little longer which is why I have more rows. This is how I did it: I picked up my stitches and marked the halfway point. Then I knitted row 1 in the main body yarn. I joined on row 2 and when I got to the halfway marker I knit M1, ssk to make a seam stitch without adding a stitch and did it again at the end where row 3 started. Row three was knit all the way through and then on row 4 when I got to my markers I knit ssk to decrease a stitch. The point was to have a seam stitch on every other row all the way up the side. Every 4th row was an actual decrease until I reached the number of stitches I wanted, then every other row was an M1, ssk at each side until I got my length. I hope I am explaining this clearly. I have also found a yarn I think will be more suitable for the lacy inserts and I'll be knitting those up to see how they look.
Thank you to all for the kind comments.
Debbie and Janet, here is how I created the seam. Once I had my stitches picked up on the band, which did not come out with the number in the instructions, I subtracted the number of decreases I needed so that I would have the correct number of stitches by the time I got to the point where I had to separate the front and back.
I wanted the decreases to go gradually and I wanted to create a "seam". According to my stitches, I had to decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row. By the time I was done, I was at around row 60 and had to continue to row 72. My blouse is going to be a little longer which is why I have more rows.
This is how I did it: I picked up my stitches and marked the halfway point. Then I knitted row 1 in the main body yarn. I joined on row 2 and when I got to the halfway marker I knit M1, ssk to make a seam stitch without adding a stitch and did it again at the end where row 3 started. Row three was knit all the way through and then on row 4 when I got to my markers I knit ssk to decrease a stitch.
The point was to have a seam stitch on every other row all the way up the side. Every 4th row was an actual decrease until I reached the number of stitches I wanted, then every other row was an M1, ssk at each side until I got my length. I hope I am explaining this clearly.
I have also found a yarn I think will be more suitable for the lacy inserts and I'll be knitting those up to see how they look.
Annie, sounds like you had fewer than 200 st (or what ever number you were aiming for). I have extra. I could : get rid of all 18 on the first row or make more dec along the sides to end up with the right number. It also sounds like you were dec only 1 st at each seam instead of 2 (dec 1 st at beg and end of each row), Do I have this right?
Debbie
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Henrietta_1: I have decided to knit in the round now as well. I have finally finished the bottom band and decided not to have a seam at the side, but to have it at center back. What does everybody think of that? Do you think it is going to matter if I block the sweater after it is totally finished? Thanks Henrietta
Henrietta - I think making your band seam in the center back should not be a problem, however, I believe it is essential to block the band before continuing since it does change size when blocked because of the laciness.
yarngirl52: rockync: Thank you to all for the kind comments. Debbie and Janet, here is how I created the seam. Once I had my stitches picked up on the band, which did not come out with the number in the instructions, I subtracted the number of decreases I needed so that I would have the correct number of stitches by the time I got to the point where I had to separate the front and back. I wanted the decreases to go gradually and I wanted to create a "seam". According to my stitches, I had to decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row. By the time I was done, I was at around row 60 and had to continue to row 72. My blouse is going to be a little longer which is why I have more rows. This is how I did it: I picked up my stitches and marked the halfway point. Then I knitted row 1 in the main body yarn. I joined on row 2 and when I got to the halfway marker I knit M1, ssk to make a seam stitch without adding a stitch and did it again at the end where row 3 started. Row three was knit all the way through and then on row 4 when I got to my markers I knit ssk to decrease a stitch. The point was to have a seam stitch on every other row all the way up the side. Every 4th row was an actual decrease until I reached the number of stitches I wanted, then every other row was an M1, ssk at each side until I got my length. I hope I am explaining this clearly. I have also found a yarn I think will be more suitable for the lacy inserts and I'll be knitting those up to see how they look. Annie, sounds like you had fewer than 200 st (or what ever number you were aiming for). I have extra. I could : get rid of all 18 on the first row or make more dec along the sides to end up with the right number. It also sounds like you were dec only 1 st at each seam instead of 2 (dec 1 st at beg and end of each row), Do I have this right? Debbie
Debbie - I did end up with less than 200 stitches so I didn't have that many decreases which allowed me to do only one decrease on each side instead of 2. If you have a lot more stitches to get rid of and not as many rows to do for length, you could decrease 2 stitches at each side (4 per decrease row) until you have the right number of stitches.
Would not recommend decreasing all those extra stitches on the first row because that will create a huge flare at the bottom and may cause bunching. A gradual decrease will look much neater.
rockync: Henrietta_1: I have decided to knit in the round now as well. I have finally finished the bottom band and decided not to have a seam at the side, but to have it at center back. What does everybody think of that? Do you think it is going to matter if I block the sweater after it is totally finished? Thanks Henrietta Henrietta - I think making your band seam in the center back should not be a problem, however, I believe it is essential to block the band before continuing since it does change size when blocked because of the laciness.
Debbie - should have added, don't forget to mark your sides unless you plan on doing your decreases as on single back seam.
rockync: rockync: Henrietta_1: I have decided to knit in the round now as well. I have finally finished the bottom band and decided not to have a seam at the side, but to have it at center back. What does everybody think of that? Do you think it is going to matter if I block the sweater after it is totally finished? Thanks Henrietta Henrietta - I think making your band seam in the center back should not be a problem, however, I believe it is essential to block the band before continuing since it does change size when blocked because of the laciness. Debbie - should have added, don't forget to mark your sides unless you plan on doing your decreases as on single back seam.
rockync: yarngirl52: rockync: Thank you to all for the kind comments. Debbie and Janet, here is how I created the seam. Once I had my stitches picked up on the band, which did not come out with the number in the instructions, I subtracted the number of decreases I needed so that I would have the correct number of stitches by the time I got to the point where I had to separate the front and back. I wanted the decreases to go gradually and I wanted to create a "seam". According to my stitches, I had to decrease one stitch on each side every 4th row. By the time I was done, I was at around row 60 and had to continue to row 72. My blouse is going to be a little longer which is why I have more rows. This is how I did it: I picked up my stitches and marked the halfway point. Then I knitted row 1 in the main body yarn. I joined on row 2 and when I got to the halfway marker I knit M1, ssk to make a seam stitch without adding a stitch and did it again at the end where row 3 started. Row three was knit all the way through and then on row 4 when I got to my markers I knit ssk to decrease a stitch. The point was to have a seam stitch on every other row all the way up the side. Every 4th row was an actual decrease until I reached the number of stitches I wanted, then every other row was an M1, ssk at each side until I got my length. I hope I am explaining this clearly. I have also found a yarn I think will be more suitable for the lacy inserts and I'll be knitting those up to see how they look. Annie, sounds like you had fewer than 200 st (or what ever number you were aiming for). I have extra. I could : get rid of all 18 on the first row or make more dec along the sides to end up with the right number. It also sounds like you were dec only 1 st at each seam instead of 2 (dec 1 st at beg and end of each row), Do I have this right? Debbie Debbie - I did end up with less than 200 stitches so I didn't have that many decreases which allowed me to do only one decrease on each side instead of 2. If you have a lot more stitches to get rid of and not as many rows to do for length, you could decrease 2 stitches at each side (4 per decrease row) until you have the right number of stitches. Would not recommend decreasing all those extra stitches on the first row because that will create a huge flare at the bottom and may cause bunching. A gradual decrease will look much neater.
Annie, I guess I have some more math to do... LOL
moonquilter: Thank you Kathleen for setting uip the "Round" forum. It will be easier to keep track of the postings here. I hope all the "Rounders" will use this forum. Also, I'm interested in the "sleeves" forum as well....not going to do them this time, but sure I'll learn a trick or two by reading along. This is a current pic of the double dec. that was mentioned in the emails above. Would love to see how everyone else has done their decreases...mine has bumps that show. Vickie aka moonquilter
Thank you Kathleen for setting uip the "Round" forum. It will be easier to keep track of the postings here. I hope all the "Rounders" will use this forum.
Also, I'm interested in the "sleeves" forum as well....not going to do them this time, but sure I'll learn a trick or two by reading along.
This is a current pic of the double dec. that was mentioned in the emails above. Would love to see how everyone else has done their decreases...mine has bumps that show. Vickie aka moonquilter
Hi Moonquilter,
I've done three decreases so far in my knitting in the round. I have be using an ssk at the start of the round and then a k2tog for the end of the row so each side seam has one of each. I didn't get bumps eventhough you can see where the decreases are. I will try and take a picture and post it so you can compare with yours. Yours looks okay though.
Susan
SusanD@51: moonquilter: Thank you Kathleen for setting uip the "Round" forum. It will be easier to keep track of the postings here. I hope all the "Rounders" will use this forum. Also, I'm interested in the "sleeves" forum as well....not going to do them this time, but sure I'll learn a trick or two by reading along. This is a current pic of the double dec. that was mentioned in the emails above. Would love to see how everyone else has done their decreases...mine has bumps that show. Vickie aka moonquilter Hi Moonquilter, I've done three decreases so far in my knitting in the round. I have be using an ssk at the start of the round and then a k2tog for the end of the row so each side seam has one of each. I didn't get bumps eventhough you can see where the decreases are. I will try and take a picture and post it so you can compare with yours. Yours looks okay though. Susan
I wanted to thank you for suggesting that I should block the band. It took a bit of time (and about 3 boxes of pins), but I did go ahead and block the band. As I am using the Berroco Glint, you don't really see laciness that much, but I think it looks pretty. I will try later to take and post a photo later. Can't wait to get really started on this sweater
moonquilter: SusanD@51: moonquilter: Thank you Kathleen for setting uip the "Round" forum. It will be easier to keep track of the postings here. I hope all the "Rounders" will use this forum. Also, I'm interested in the "sleeves" forum as well....not going to do them this time, but sure I'll learn a trick or two by reading along. This is a current pic of the double dec. that was mentioned in the emails above. Would love to see how everyone else has done their decreases...mine has bumps that show. Vickie aka moonquilter Hi Moonquilter, I've done three decreases so far in my knitting in the round. I have be using an ssk at the start of the round and then a k2tog for the end of the row so each side seam has one of each. I didn't get bumps eventhough you can see where the decreases are. I will try and take a picture and post it so you can compare with yours. Yours looks okay though. Susan Susan: Weould love to see your pic. I did a little "tugging & pulling" on the stitches and made them look better..I did more dec after that pic and held it tighter and it looked a lot less bumpy. If I had been dec every row like the instructions, then the bumps would just be one continous raised stitch, but of course that wouldn't work with this pattern. So it was just a mistake to try that particular dec. I guess. This is such a learning process!! Vickie
I inserted my pic with the decreases. Not sure what you meant when you said in your message, "If I had been dec every row like the instructions," The instructions actually say to decrease every 1 1/4 inch which is every 7th or 8th row depending on your gauge. Maybe if you're decreasing every row is what is causing your bumps????? Maybe I misunderstood. Hope my pic and how I decreased made sense and helps.
Forgive me if this has already been asked...
I'm about to pick up the stitches for the body. My question is, do I need to adjust the # of stitches? Since I am knitting in the round, should I subtract any stitches since I won't be using a "seam allowance"? Or, since it would be so few stitches, doesn't it matter?
~Lisa
Beehiveof8: Forgive me if this has already been asked... I'm about to pick up the stitches for the body. My question is, do I need to adjust the # of stitches? Since I am knitting in the round, should I subtract any stitches since I won't be using a "seam allowance"? Or, since it would be so few stitches, doesn't it matter? ~Lisa
Hi Lisa,
I didn't subtract any stitches as I am closer to a 36" instead of 34" and am making the 34". I am also using a yarn with a high content of cotton yarn and cotton always seems to stretch. I picked up 100 stitches, placed marker and then the next 100 stitches to match what the pattern called for. I figured out when to skip a stitch of the 130 along the band dividing the band on graph paper so I could place the skipped stitches fairly evenly along the band. I am not very imaginary and can''t visualize what the knitting or blouse would look like if I changed the pattern so I follow it closely and just make sure my gauge is correct. Hope you figure it out. I have posted the picture of mine above. There are also several versions of how to do the side decreases.
Hi Susan,
First off, your looks great! It's hard to see your dec...good job.
What I meant was: the picture of the "instruction book" that I put in with my pic of the top..it was showing the double dec, doing it every row, and it made a nice smooth line of stitches. BUT, since I was following "our" directions and doing only dec every inch or so, it made a "bump". I should have tried out the stitch for a few rows following the Bella pattern, and I would have noticed the bumps. Next top I make I won't do it that way, it shows the dec too much. Thanks for helping, I like what I see with yours.
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