Official Bella Blouse Knit-Along: "Hey, I'm adding sleeves!" Forum

This post has 69 Replies | 10 Followers
Top 10 Contributor
Posts 1,463
Editor
SystemAdministrator
on Jul 25, 2011 5:59 PM

Hi Knitters!

If you're adding sleeves, this is the forum where you can share your tips and tricks.

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 25, 2011 6:32 PM

Well, I was just going to start the e-mail tree, sub-tree or whatever you want o call it, but Kathleen created this add-on forum just for us.  Thank you Kathleen....so others can come here and benefir from our discussion...here's the begginning that I was just about to send out.  Long post, but a start to this conversion.....adding actual set-in sleeves...be they long short or 3/4 length.....

Lynne

What kind of sleeves did you have in mind?  I want to add sleeves as well.  i favor the Bella in sage green on Ravelry only I want to make shorter ones.  One thing I noticed is that the cross back on the schematic is built to look like a tank top over a lace blouse.  The picture on Ravelry looks like she went all the way out to her cross back measurement so I will have to refigure the armhole and then figure the sleeve from that.

Shanna

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi Shanna,

I love that sage green Bella on Ravelry, too.  I will look at it closer reference what you said about the cross back.  I did look at the Bella schematic.  First, what size are you making?  I am making the largest size, but I am doing the band in two pieces and shortened each piece to 180 rows instead of 185 to have 18 full repeats of the pattern...thus I picked up 136 sts instead of 140 and am doing 5 side decs (10 sts dec'd) every 12 rows starting on row 14.  I also don't think I want my full length to be 25" and may shorten it a bit. 

But the cross back measurement is puzzling.  For the largest size that top measurement shows      3 1/4" for the left shoulder...then that 9 1/4".  So do you think it's 6" at the neck + 3 1/4 + 3 1/4?  If so, that is not normal for a large size....so the shaping on the front and back will have to be changed for the underarm bindoff up.  I think that is what you were indicating.

Lynne aka imalulu

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I am making a sort of in between size for my daughter.  Her bust plus 1" ease is 35".  I am adding a small amount of waist shaping.  Her hips plus 2" of ease was close to 15 repeats per band and I am doing two as well.  This gives me 150 rows to work with and I am planning on picking up 100 stitches per band. 

The schematic I think goofed.  I think the 9 1/4" is the neck opening only.  If I divide the stitches after the armhole bind off on the back by 5 then it comes out to within 1 stitch of the 9 1/4" plus two of the smaller measurements.  For you this turns out to be 15 3/4".  When I divide 78 by 5 I get 15.6.  Since my daughter's cross back is 14.5" I think this still may not be as wide as you want.  The closest to her size is 11.6 and definitely not what I want.

Let me know how it goes.  Shanna

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I didn't look at the pattern thoroughly enough, yet, at the sts remaining after underarm bind off and decs.  Thanks for looking at that.  I am rapidly getting up to the underarm on the back piece, but still have to knit the front bottom band.  I will look more closely at the upper part of the pattern soon and at some of my well fitting sweaters and their measurements.  And then at other patterns with set-in sleeves to determine what I'll do for shaping for the underarm up. 

 Lynne aka imalulu

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And just a note here...Shanna pointerd out that we may need to do the shaping above the armhole bind off diiferent from the pattern to add set-in sleeves because the blouse is designed more like a tank top, and may need more width across the back (and front) to make sleeves work.  So don't knit too far on the back piece before considering this.

Lynne aka imalulu

 

Kathleen Cubley:

Hi Knitters!

If you're adding sleeves, this is the forum where you can share your tips and tricks.

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 25, 2011 8:18 PM

I just sent a message to the knitter of the gorgeous sage green Bella Blouse on Ravelry.  Hope she will answer with some insight as to what alterations she made to add her sleeves.  Lynne aka imalulu

Top 500 Contributor
Posts 17
RubyCue wrote
on Jul 25, 2011 10:23 PM

I would like to be added to this forum as well.

Thank you,

Ruby

Not Ranked
Posts 13
mirandafox wrote
on Jul 26, 2011 7:47 PM

Laughingstar on Ravelry added her notes on the sleeves.

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/laughingstar/bella-blouse

 

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 26, 2011 9:04 PM

Thank you miranafox for alerting us

And a huge thank you to Laughingstar for sharing her notes on her alterations to add sleeves to the Bella Blouse.  I am copying and pasting her directions here....this is for the smallest size, 34 1/2 chest.  We'll have to discuss shaping for larger sizes....

7/26/2011 - Due to popular demand, I’m adding my modifications for the armholes/sleeves.
Knit back as written to
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Bind off 4 stitches beginning of next 2 rows
Bind off 3 stitches beginning of following 2 rows
Decrease 1 stitch each end every RS row 2 times
68 stitches remain - work even until armhole measures 6” and continue according to pattern
11 stitches will remain each side for shoulders.
Shape armholes for the front same as for the back.

SLEEVES
Knit 6 repeats of leaf pattern - pick up 46 stitches along edge
Increase 1 stitch each side every 4 rows 2 times
Increase 1 stitch each side every 6 rows 3 times
Increase 1 stitch each side every 8 rows 4 times - 64 stitches
Knit to desired length to underarm
Bind off 4 stitches beginning of next 2 rows
Decrease 1 stitch each side of every RS row 5 times - 46 stitches
Decrease 1 stitch each side every 4 rows 4 times - 38 sts
Decrease 1 stitch each side every 2 rows 6 times - 26 sts
Bind off 2 stitches beginning of next 4 rows.
Bind off remaining 18 stitches

mirandafox:

Laughingstar on Ravelry added her notes on the sleeves.

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/laughingstar/bella-blouse

 

 

Not Ranked
Posts 13
squirtsmom wrote
on Jul 27, 2011 7:37 AM

mirandafox:

Laughingstar on Ravelry added her notes on the sleeves.

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/laughingstar/bella-blouse

 

Thank you, Laughingstar, for your notes -- your bella blouse is beautiful!!

-Anne

Not Ranked
Posts 13
NaturalGrl wrote
on Jul 27, 2011 2:25 PM

Good afternoon, ladies!  I'm still a new knitter, and self-taught (thankfully there are a lot of knowledgeable and generous people out there in the world willing to teach the clueless).  I started in December, and have completed 2 stocking hats, a cowl, and a pair of socks (that don't match exactly).  Altering the written pattern scares me, but I know I really won't like the cap sleeve - I paid $250 to alter my wedding gown to remove the caps and insert pretty lace (elbow-length) sleeves!  I hope you are patient with me!

Progress so far:  I've completed the waistband, and am almost 6" up the back (not including band).  I'm making the 2nd largest size (46-1/2), and so far I've only changed two things.  First, I slipped the bottom loop instead of YO, at which time that became the top of the band, and the nobby edge became the bottom.  Second, I'd really like this to be long enough (I am long waisted), so I'm going to add an inch or two to the length.

I'm comparing Laughingstar's instructions to the pattern.  Starting at the armhole shaping, Laughingstar's instructions say to bind off 4 stitches for 2 rows, then 3 stitches for 2 rows, then dec 1 st twice.  That is 16 stitches total.  In the smallest size of the pattern, it says BO 6 sts twice, then 1 st 8 more times.  That's 20.  Am I right so far?  So she went for a more rounded armhole, and left 4 stitches more on.  Trying to convert that to the larger size, I'm supposed to get rid of 33 (6x4 + 9 more).  Would it be reasonable to BO 4 sts for 4 rows, 3 sts for 3 rows, then 1 st each row for 3 more rows?  This is a total guess.  

Thank you in advance for all of your wisdom. 

Renden aka NaturalGrl

Renden aka NaturalGrl Snail

Top 150 Contributor
Posts 33
DoraH wrote
on Jul 27, 2011 2:53 PM

imalulu:

I just sent a message to the knitter of the gorgeous sage green Bella Blouse on Ravelry.  Hope she will answer with some insight as to what alterations she made to add her sleeves.  Lynne aka imalulu

Lynne, thanks for asking for them.  It will be great to have something to work with and it was good of her to share.  Dora

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 28, 2011 9:39 PM

NaturalGrl...and everyone contemplating sleeves...please see below.....

NaturalGrl:

I'm comparing Laughingstar's instructions to the pattern.  Starting at the armhole shaping, Laughingstar's instructions say to bind off 4 stitches for 2 rows, then 3 stitches for 2 rows, then dec 1 st twice.  That is 16 stitches total. 

The dec 1 st twice is really dec 1 sts EACH END OF NDL twice....which really is 4 more sts dec'd, so it's -8, then -5, then -4 for a total of 18 sts.

 In the smallest size of the pattern, it says BO 6 sts twice, then 1 st 8 more times.  That's 20. 

Smallest size directions is likewise....then dec 1 st AT EACH END OF NDL 8 more times.....for 16 more sts added to the 12 for 28 sts gone, not 20.

Am I right so far?  So she went for a more rounded armhole, and left 4 stitches more on. 

Laughingstar left 10 more total sts on the back piece, which makes left and right sides of neck have 5 sts more or 1" more each side of back and also will be each side of front neck shaping.

 Trying to convert that to the larger size, I'm supposed to get rid of 33 (6x4 + 9 more). 

How are you trying to convert to the larger size here?? 

First what size are you making?  I have been searching for another pattern with set in-sleeves that has gauge of 5 sts to the inch and the same number (or very close) of sts across the back (chest) at the underarm.  And will follow the shaing for that pattern for armhole shaping and sleeves top shaping.  Make sense? 

 Other opinons please.  Lynne aka imalulu...making the largest size

 

 Would it be reasonable to BO 4 sts for 4 rows, 3 sts for 3 rows, then 1 st each row for 3 more rows?  This is a total guess.  

Thank you in advance for all of your wisdom. 

Renden aka NaturalGrl

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 80
oxid8 wrote
on Jul 29, 2011 1:15 PM

I am not going to answer a specific post yet but throw out some things to think about.

When doing set-sleeves the idea is to take the bust measurement down to the cross back measurement.  You subtract cross back from the 1/2 of the total bust to get the inches needed for the decrease.   Multiply this number by your stitch gauge, round to an even number and divide by 2 again to get total stitch decreases for each side of the back (front will be the same as back).  Now you that you have the number of decreases you get to determine how to decrease them.  I read a few different references and here is what I gleaned. 

Rule of thumb is to bind off 1 of stitches on the first row for a total of 2 inches between the front and back.  Shirley Paden says 1/2 to 1 inch.  She also says to put decreases after the initial bind off into the first 1 1/2 to 3 inches of length (armhole depth).  Debbie Stoller says to put them into the first 1/3 of shoulder depth.  Everyone says to decrease on right side rows if possible.  Deborah Newton says that on lightweight yarns it should be every other right side row.  In Lisa Shroyer's book Knitting Plus she recommends that plus size ladies bind off 2 to 2 1/2" initially for a total of not more that 5 inches between front and back or it will show on the front and back.

I think using another sweater is great provided it fits in the cross back and the armhole shaping and sleeves fit the way you would like on you.  The gauge wouldn't need to be the same to take measurements and convert to this sweaters gauge.  

I am sure that was as clear as mud so if I need to explain it better please ask.  Maybe I can draw what I mean and take pictures.  I am sometimes mathamatically challenged so test it and tell me if I am wrong.

Now for an example.  My daughter's bust is 34 plus 1 inch of ease for a total of 35 inches.  Her cross back is 14 1/2 inches.  One half of 35 is 17 1/2 subtract 14 1/2  to get 3 inches.  3 inches times 5 stitches per inch is 15 stitches.  I can round it to 16 or take it down to 14 (depending on how I think the cross back fits and stretch of fabric) and divide by 2.  I think I will round it to 16 and divide by two to get 8 stitches needed to decrease each side.  If I bind off an inch (5stitches) then I will still need to decrease 3 stitches.  Now I will try it and see if I like the curve.  If not I will pull it out and play with the numbers, maybe bind off 4 initially and decrease 4 stitches every right side row.

Stitch and *** Superstar Knitting by Debbie Stoller

Knitwear Design Workshop by Shirley Paden

Designing Knitwear by Deborah Newton

Knitting Plus by Lisa Shroyer

 

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 80
oxid8 wrote
on Jul 29, 2011 1:17 PM

The sleeve isn't that hard to calculate either so don't be afraid to try this.

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 80
oxid8 wrote
on Jul 29, 2011 1:29 PM

How do you edit posts?  My husband helped me last time and I forgot.  On my example of my daughter's sweater I forgot to mention you need an extra stitch on each side for seaming.  Because I still consider her cross back okay I will just let one of the 8 be a seam stitch.  Otherwise I would only decrease 7 stitches.

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 29, 2011 4:08 PM

Shanna....thank you so much for this info.  I really had to think it thru as I read it....but it makes sense to me.  Also, thanks for the info specifically about plus size.  Since I am making the largest size, could you explain the statement below.  What does Lisa Shroyer mean about "will show on the front and back"....like puckering?  I was thinking of 7-8 sts for my initial underarm bind off, but that is only around 1 1/2". 

oxid8:

 In Lisa Shroyer's book Knitting Plus she recommends that plus size ladies bind off 2 to 2 1/2" initially for a total of not more that 5 inches between front and back or it will show on the front and back.

Top 50 Contributor
Posts 143
imalulu wrote
on Jul 29, 2011 4:10 PM

Look at the far right on your post that you have already published....where it says "Send to friend"...the 5th thing should say edit.  Lynne aka imalulu

oxid8:

How do you edit posts?  My husband helped me last time and I forgot.  On my example of my daughter's sweater I forgot to mention you need an extra stitch on each side for seaming.  Because I still consider her cross back okay I will just let one of the 8 be a seam stitch.  Otherwise I would only decrease 7 stitches.

Page 1 of 5 (70 items) 1 2 3 4 5  Next > | RSS