Gallery: Mirabella Cardigan, design by Jennifer Tallapaneni
|
As
you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women!
We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration.
Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which
customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self!
Mirabella Cardigan
Sample garment shown is 37" at bust. General comments on the Mirabella Cardigan
|
|
|
|
 |
|  |
Sarah
Her bust: 35.5" Ease at bust as shown: 1.5" positive ease I'd make the sweater a bit longer for tall Sarah. Busty gals like Sarah might also consider doing one more set of darts at
the bustline to provide more room. To minimize the "arrow pointing to
the top of the mountain" effect, she might want to start the top set of
darts sooner so that they do not end right at the fullest part of her
bust. |
| Kerry
Her bust: 37.75" Ease at bust as shown: 0.75" minimal to negative ease Kerry
is also tall, so she, too, might prefer some extra length. Another inch
or so at the hips would help keep her silhouette slim; right now, the
sweater ends at her widest bit, drawing the eye right there—Kerry is
slim to begin with, so the hem placement adds more visual bulk where
she really isn't bulky at all! More length, and the eye will skim right
past and stay moving over her tall, graceful lines. Since Kerry's waist
is fairly high, I would work a few more rows of ribbing at the top of
the waist (pulling the fabric in), and thus work one more set of upper darts (making more room)
to compensate. I also would shorten Kerry's sleeves just a bit to help
draw the eye upwards to her face and away from her bustline—currently,
the sleeve hem ends at the same level as the fullest part of her bust,
so shortening the sleeve would give the eye a little nudge upwards. |
|
|
|
 |
|  |
Debbie
Her bust: 34.5" Ease as shown: 2.5" positive ease I
think that the size 37" is just a bit too big on Debbie, so I would go
down a size to the 33". It's always a challenge to pick a size when you
are between sizes; for sweaters, unless I want a really loose comfy
fit, I personally tend to go to the next size down. (Negative ease can
be a busty gal's best friend sometimes.) On Debbie, the size 33" will
have 1.5" of negative ease; the large gauge and elasticity of the
fabric will provide plenty of "give" allowing her to breathe! With this
bit of fitted negative ease for Debbie, I would probably start the
ribbing a bit later, so that it starts at her natural waist; then I
would do some measuring on her to make sure that the ribbing did not go
up too far. In the smaller size, I would also do one set of darts more at her bustline. |
| Toni
Her bust: 33.5" Ease as shown: 3.5" positive ease I'd
start the ribbing later and end it later, moving the entire ribbed
waist section up a half inch to an inch for long waisted Toni. Would I
make the smaller size (33") to more closely match Toni's measurements?
Perhaps...Toni likes to wear layers and she does not like to wear
really clingy tops, so if I were really making this top for her, I'd
ask her for her preferences first! I do think I would make slightly
shorter sleeves to help pull the eye up to her face and away from her
extra-long waist. |
|
|
|
 |
|  |
Bertha
Her bust: 34" Ease as shown: 3" positive ease Notice
how the ribbing sits lower on Bertha than on some of the other gals?
Some people like that effect, some may prefer to have the ribbing start
at their natural waist and go up from there, as in the magazine photo.
Just something to consider! (And I probably would make the 33” size for
Ms. B. A little negative ease would do nicely for her, methinks.) |
| Laura
Her bust: 33.5" Ease as shown: 3.5" positive ease I would definitely make the smaller size 33” for slender, willowy Laura; on her, the 37” sweater hides her graceful figure. |
Sandi's general comments on the Mirabella (besides "classic Audrey Hepburn!"): The Mirabella, like the Flutter,
also uses ribbing and needle-size changes to pull the waist section in
gently; however, Jennifer also uses vertical darts, both back and
front, for even more dangerous curves. For a bottom-up sweater, the rule for vertical darts is: The bigger you are, the more dart rows you will work, in order to add as much room in the sweater as you need. Thus: The bigger your hips, the more rows of vertical darts you need below the waist; the bigger your bust, the more darts you need above your waist. Women with a seriously curvy backside may want to do more darts on the back than on the front. Conversely: Smaller women will want fewer darts to pull in the fabric closer to their more subtle charms.
Again,
the large gauge fabric has a lot of give; you may need fewer (or more)
darts than you think you do. TIP: Work a gauge swatch (sorreee!) that
is a "mini hourglass"—include a stockinette section, then some vertical
darts in pattern as indicated, then some ribbing, then some dart rows,
then more stockinette. Measure each section carefully and compare; the
point is to discover how much the fabric changes, how it stretches, how
it narrows, so that you know what it will do when you knit a
"you-sized" hourglass!
Posted
Feb 14 2008, 10:49 PM
by
Kat
In order to leave a comment you must be logged in.