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Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Rosamund's Cardigan

Kathleen Cubley — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 17:37:14 GMT

FALL 2009 INTERWEAVE KNITS GALLERIES
	Rosamund's Cardigan *by Andrea Pomerantz* from Interweave Knits Fall 2009 Sweater shown is 34 1/2 inches modeled with minimal ease
Andrea Pomerantz uses a clever reversible cable where it matters most in the pared-down, one-piece Rosamund's Cardigan: at the front edgings and along the collar, which look good whether the cardigan is open or closed and whether the collar is worn up or folded down into lapels.
Interweave Gallery Gals

Toni Toni says: While I adore the offset cabling in this cardigan, I would probably wear it only with a full skirt. I have a fairly straight figure without a large difference between my bust and waist, and I don't have a large waist to hip ratio. The bulky yarn decreases the hip to waist ratio even farther. I do really love the cabling however, so I might try lengthening the cardigan to mid-hip creating more of a jacket appearance and playing up the slightly bulky charm. Height: 5' 5 ½" Bust 35" Underbust: 31" Waist: 29" Hip: 37" Torso: 15"	Ruth Ruth says: It was really fun modeling these sweaters--I've never modeled anything before. For the cardigan, my preference is to wear it open; it looks best that way for me in terms of comfort and style. This color also looks great with black, a color I tend to wear the most and something I can easily wear for work. Height: 5' 4" Bust: 34 ½ Underbust: 29 ¾ Waist: 28 ½ Hip: 32 ¾ Torso: 16"
	Keira Keira says: This was my favorite of the three I modeled. I wouldn’t change a thing about the fit. It looked great with the skirt I was wearing, a more sophisticated look for when I want to dress up a bit. But I could definitely see wearing it with jeans and a tank top under it as I like the short sleeves. Height: 5’ 7” Bust: 31 ¾ Underbust: 27 ½ Waist: 26 ½ Hip: 32 ½ Torso: 17 ½

Kathleen's Fit Notes The cardigan looks great on everyone, especially since they've all made it their own-buttoned up, lapels open, with jeans or a skirt-whatever suits the mood! Keira has a longer torso than Toni or Ruth, and I think that suits the sample-sized sweater best. If Toni made this sweater, I think she would want to lengthen the torso, adjusting the waist shaping as necessary. It's interesting that Ruth's hip measurement is identical to Kiera's but Keira likes the cardigan closed and Ruth likes it open. I think it looks good buttoned on Keira as she has a slightly longer neck than Ruth. I agree with Ruth that the black color of her shirt and shirt helps offset the cardigan's neutral color for her skin type. What do you think? Leave your thoughts in the comments.	Some links you might find helpful: Measuring yourself and your clothing About positive and negative ease Measuring tutorial with photos

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Every Way Wrap

Kathleen Cubley — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:46:51 GMT

FALL 2009 INTERWEAVE KNITS GALLERIES
	Every Way Wrap *by Okmin Park* from Interweave Knits Fall 2009 Shawl shown measures 14 1/2" wide
A brilliant, reversible cable that looks exactly the same on both sides creates a show-stopping design element for a simple rectangle. Our gallery girls wore it as a wrap, a vest, a scarf, a shrug-how many ways can you think of to wear it?
Interweave Gallery Gals
Keira
Keira says: I admit that I haven't knit in many years but after seeing these garments, I want to pick up my needles again. As you can see, I can think of so many ways to wear the Every Way Wrap--I'm heading to college next month and this would be a perfect all-around project. Height: 5' 7" Bust: 31 ¾ Underbust: 27 ½ Waist: 26 ½ Hip: 32 ½ Torso: 17 ½
	Brenda Brenda says: What a fun piece! My schedule doesn't allow me to tackle a sweater right, now, but I think that I could fit this in; the versatility of the wrap makes it a must. The Every Way Wrap is just plain fun to wear and as soon as I saw it, I selected my jeans and a belt to wear with it. I love the way this piece can be worn with all kinds of outfits. Height: 5' 5" Bust: 33 ¾" Underbust: 29 ½" Waist: 27 ¼" Hip: 37 ¼" Torso: 16"


Ruth Ruth says: I selected the Every Way Wrap because I think I would wear it a lot, and this color looks great with my everyday black. I like the versatility of this wrap--it's truly wearable "every way." Height: 5' 4" Bust: 34 ½ Underbust: 29 ¾ Waist: 28 ½ Hip: 32 ¾ Torso: 16"
Kathleen's Fit Notes This has got to be one of the most unique and creative wrap designs I've ever seen. I love the way the gallery gals choose different ways to wear it, especially Keira, who couldn't stop finding new ways to "wrap the "wrap"! Fit-wise, this looks great on all three women, and because of its versatility it'll flatter all bodies. There's also a wide range of sizing available for the wrap: 14½ (16½, 21, 26)" wide and 59" long, to fit bust sizes 32-37 (39-41, 43-45, 47-50)". It's a keeper. What do you think? Leave your thoughts in the comments.	Some links you might find helpful: Measuring yourself and your clothing About positive and negative ease Measuring tutorial with photos

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Nordique Swing

Kathleen Cubley — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 15:38:17 GMT

FALL 2009

INTERWEAVE KNITS

GALLERIES

Nordique Swing

by Véronik Avery

from Interweave Knits Fall 2009

Cardigan shown measures 38", modeled with 3" positive ease

Inspired by 50s silhouettes, the wide jacket sleeves and boxy shape of the Nordique Swing Jacket are flatteringly feminine but super easy-to-wear. It's extremely versatile as a layering piece, and looks equally good open or closed-make sure to fine-tune sleeve length to your own arms for the neatest look.

Interweave Gallery Gals

Kiera

Toni

Keira says: I liked the three-quarter-length sleeves and the length. But if I were to personalize it, I’d like it to be a bit more fitted. So I would either add some shaping through the waistline or add ties at the side that I could tie in back and cinch it up. The ties could be satin ribbons or knitted or crocheted strings.

And I’d also sometimes wear it with a long sleeved top underneath.

Height: 5’ 7”
Bust: 31 ¾
Underbust: 27 ½
Waist: 26 ½
Hip: 32 ½
Torso: 17 ½

Toni says: The length on this sweater illustrates a problem my short back frequently creates: the swing shaping ends at the widest point of my hip. I would make the next smallest size and shorten the length by at least an inch and a half.

One thing to watch for when shortening a garment with three-quarter-length sleeves is that shortening the sweater might place the hem at the same height as the cuff of the sleeves. This would probably make me look wider, so I might need to either lengthen or shorten the sleeves as well. I did fall in love with the simple wheat ear lace pattern.

Height: 5' 5 ½"
Bust 35"
Underbust: 31"
Waist: 29"
Hip: 37"
Torso: 15"

Brenda

Brenda says: The Nordique sweater looks like it was made just for me! The fit is perfect and the color, very rich and vibrant, is one that I have in my wardrobe. The sweater hits above my hip, my preferred length for sweaters--any longer and it make my torso looks too elongated.

As a staple in my closet, I would probably make a version that had full length sleeves to wear throughout the year.

Height: 5' 5"
Bust: 33 ¾"
Underbust: 29 ½"
Waist: 27 ¼"
Hip: 37 ¼"
Torso: 16"

Kathleen's Fit Notes

I live the swingy look of this cardigan, whether it's worn open or closed. Flattering on all three models, I think the sample size looks best on Brenda and Keira. Toni hit the nail on the head with her comments about adjusting the length of the sweater, including the arm length.

When you're adjusting a sweater, it's important to look at the schematic and compare your measurements to the schematic. If you need to make a bigger size because of the bust measurement, be sure and check the arm measurement, too, especially on a sweater like Nordique: a shorter sweater with three-quarter-length sleeves. You want the sleeves to stay three-quarter-length and not hit at a place too near your wrists (or hips, as Toni mentioned).

This sweater is a sweet, feminine piece that you'll want to wear like all of our gallery gals did--buttoned up, just a few buttons fastened, with jeans or a skirt--whatever works with your personal style.

I love the purple colorway used in the sample, but this would be a staple in black, cream, or gray, too.

What do you think? Leave your thoughts in the comments.

Some links you might find helpful:

Measuring yourself and your clothing

About positive and negative ease

Measuring tutorial with photos

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Freyja Sweater

Kathleen Cubley — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:44:17 GMT

FALL 2009

INTERWEAVE KNITS

GALLERIES

Freyja Sweater

by Courtney Kelley

from Interweave Knits Fall 2009

Sweater Shown is 34 inches modeled
with zero ease

Courtney Kelley's Freyja Sweater sets Bohus-inspired colorwork elements into the yoke of a seamless sweater. Fitting a circular-yoke sweater can be tricky: for a handy guide for plus-size knitters and a detailed discussion of fit for all sizes, check out Lisa Shroyer's adventures in upsizing the pullover on the Inside Knits blog tomorrow.

Changing the colors of the body or yoke accents can change the look of the entire sweater. In its bones, the Freyja Sweater is classic, easy to wear, and almost universally flattering.

Interweave Gallery Gals

Toni

Brenda

Toni says: This stunning sweater is hands down my favorite from the fall 2009 issue. Although I’m generally a jeans and t-shirt kind of gal, this would also be fabulous when paired with a skirt and boots. The texture of the yarn is heavenly, and I loved the colors. The length of this sweater ends perfectly at mid-hip, and the gentle shaping works well on my fairly straight figure while the simple colorwork draws attention to my face.

Height: 5’ 5 ½”
Bust 35”
Underbust: 31”
Waist: 29”
Hip: 37”
Torso: 15”

Brenda says: This is a beautiful sweater and simply sumptuous with the alpaca yarn. Unlike some of my sweaters, the softness of the yarn allows this to be a worn-alone sweater. The fit on this sweater is perfect.

I'd probably choose a different color combination, though, because these colors are very light for my skin color; plus I tend to wear brighter colors.

Height: 5' 5"
Bust: 33 ¾"
Underbust: 29 ½"
Waist: 27 ¼"
Hip: 37 ¼"
Torso: 16"

Kathleen’s Fit Notes

This one goes on the “make it!” list for me. I love the Bohus look and this sweater is a wonderful example. Both Toni and Brenda look great in this sweater, though I agree with Brenda that her coloring would really benefit from brighter colors. Toni’s peaches-and-cream really shines with
this colorway!

The Freyja fits Brenda perfectly, as her bust measurement is close to the model’s bust measurement. Toni’s just a bit over an inch larger than Brenda in the bust, but I think a size 36 would be better for her—roomier and a bit longer in sleeves, too.

Don't forget to check the Inside Knits blog tomorrow for some upsizing tips from Lisa Shroyer!

Some links you might find helpful:

Measuring yourself and your clothing

About positive and negative ease

Measuring tutorial with photos

What do you think? Leave your thoughts in the comments!

IWK Fall 2008 Little Blue Sweater

Knitting-Daily — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:17:00 GMT

Gallery: Little Blue Sweater by Simona Merchant-Dest

Notes from Sandi: The key to this sweater's success is to determine, for yourself, where you want the ribbing to end and the cabled section to begin. Do you want the ribbing to come right up under your bust? Or do you want it to fall somewhere in the vicinity of your waist? As you can see, the ribbing ended up in different places on all of us, so pick the look that you prefer, and customize it for your own measurements. To mimic the style shown in the magazine, have the ribbing end halfway between your underbust and your natural waist--this seemed to be the most attractive point on most of us Gallery Gals as well! As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Some links you might find helpful: Measuring yourself and your clothing About positive and negative ease Measuring tutorial with photos Little Blue Sweater Sample garment shown is 34.5"


Sandi Her bust: 40" 5.5" negative ease Size: The yarn, the gauge, and the stitch pattern give this sweater quite a bit of stretch, so the 5.5" of negative ease shown here really doesn't seem too unreasonable. However, the beautiful stitch pattern is distorted just a bit too much! Also, and this is a personal thing: you can clearly see the beige cami I am wearing underneath. I’m not so happy with that look. (In the magazine, this sweater is shown worn over another top, so if that's the look you're going for, ignore this part!) Hence, this is too much negative ease as far as I am concerned, at least in the cabled section. The 43.5" would be too big (3.5" positive ease), so I could probably get away with knitting the 39". If I wanted it just a little bigger, I might even consider going up a needle size. Note that I kind of like how the ribbed section fits--it doesn't bag out at all. I could compromise: Knit the ribbed section smaller, as it is here, and then increase up so that the cabled section was the bigger size. Ribbing: I actually kind of like where the ribbing falls on me--about halfway between my natural waist and my underbust. If it fell at my waist, it might bag out a bit just above that, and if it fell exactly at my underbust, it might look funny on me. Sleeves: Not bad, but I can't help wondering if they are just a bit too long. They seem to widen that entire top portion of me...


Erin Her bust: 38" 3.5" negative ease Size: Way. Too. Small. (Erin is such a trooper.) If Erin made the 39", she might be able to breathe a bit better, and the stitch pattern would not be as distorted as it is here. Ribbing: I think the ribbing needs to be lower. Here, it overemphasizes her full bust, and visually widens her hips. If the break between the ribbing and the cables were at her waist, or even halfway between waist and underbust, the effect would be more balanced. Sleeves and hem: The sleeves are actually fine, in terms of length. Erin might want them a bit longer, maybe about an inch or so. The hem needs to be about 5" longer.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease Size: I think the size is great on her! Ribbing: I like where it falls on Stefanie--it emphasizes all the right curves. Sleeves and length: I think the hem could come down just a bit, about an inch. The sleeves are adorable on her.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" Zero ease Size: It fits well, as far as size goes...but that ribbing needs to be lower by about two inches. Notice that the ribbing is quite a bit higher in front than in back, because Debbie Is Not A Refrigerator—in other words, her front has curves that the sweater has to travel over before it gets to the ribbing, while her back is a straight shot down. Bringing the ribbing down will help to even things out a bit. For Debbie, who has such a long waist, I'm thinking she could even bring the ribbing down to her natural waist, instead of halfway between her waist and underbust. That would be a pretty look on her--the cables for her upper half, and the ribbing to lay smoothly over her hips. Sleeves and such: The hem should be longer, please, by about two or three inches. However, on Debbie's delicate frame, I think the overall effect would be cuter if the sleeves were about two inches shorter.


Kat Her bust: 40" 5.5" negative ease Size: I think this has too much negative ease in the bust area (see how the pattern is distorted?), so for Kat, I'd recommend she go up to the the 39" size. However, Kat has slender arms and a slender waist, so she might want to consider making the 39" in the bust area, but make smaller sizes in the sleeves and ribbing sections. Example: Cast on for the smaller size at the hem, then increase for the cabled section; work the smaller sleeves and adjust the armholes accordingly. Or...there's always needle size changes. Ribbing: Because of Kat's slender waist, the high placement of the ribbing looks really cute on her. I think she could leave this as is, if that is the look she wanted. Length and sleeves: I think the hem could come down about an inch, not much more. The sleeves seem to be a bit long in proportion to the overall sweater on Kat.


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 1" positive ease Size: This looks a teensy bit big on Toni, unless she wants to knit it with a size smaller needles OR wear layers underneath. Guess what?! Toni is a layers kind of gal, so the size is actually just perfect for her. Ribbing: I think the ribbing is too high for her long torso--it kind of smushes her vertically ("smushes," that's a technical term, right?). I'd start the ribbing earlier so it falls halfway between her underbust and her natural waist. Length and sleeves: I'd like a slightly lower hemline on Toni, to show off her long and lovely frame. As for the sleeves, I'd like them to be a bit shorter, maybe about two inches shorter, so that they do not overwhelm her petite self.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease Size: Even though Bertha's bust measurement is theoretically right for the sweater's size, somehow the sweater just hangs on her. I think this is not really due to the garment's bust measurement, but more to the fit in the ribbed section. In other words: The bust fits fine, but that ribbing… Ribbing: OK, here we go. The ribbing needs to come up about two inches higher on her, so that it helps the sweater pull in and hug her curves. Also, I think the ribbing is too loose for Bertha's slender hips, so that section could be worked in a smaller needle size to help pull things in. However, I'm worried that even that wouldn't be enough--see how the ribbing isn't stretching, not even a bit? If it doesn't stretch even a bit, then it won't cling to her hips as it was intended to do. Bertha's knitting pals would probably need to cast on fewer stitches at the hem, work up to the end of the ribbing, then do a few increases to bring the stitch count up to where it needs to be for the bust.

IWK Fall 2008 Backstage Tweed Jacket

Knitting-Daily — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:27:00 GMT

Gallery: Backstage Tweed Jacket by Alina Khasanova

Notes from Sandi: How much ease is enough for this swingy, beautifully detailed jacket? One way to determine this is to measure a garment you already have that has the fit you'd like this coat to have. Then think of how you want to wear it: Layered, with a sweater or other garments underneath, so it functions as a true outerwear garment? Or more as a fancy "suit jacket," with just a thin shirt underneath? The former would require more ease, the latter, less. But again, the absolute best guide to fitting a new jacket is to measure what's already in your closet--provided, of course, that you like the fit! To help you see how the various amounts of ease work for our Gallery Gals, we included a few extra "playful" shots. Hope this helps! About the hook-and-eye closures: This jacket, as designed, is meant to be worn with just a few hooks closed. You can add hook-and-eyes at more frequent intervals or use hook-and-eye tape if you'd like to wear it closed more frequently and eliminate gaping--or leave them out altogether. As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Some links you might find helpful: Measuring yourself and your clothing About positive and negative ease Measuring tutorial with photos Backstage Tweed Jacket Sample garment shown is 36.25".



Toni Her bust: 33.5" 2.75" positive ease The fit is good for a suit-type jacket, but Toni loves to layer it on in the cold months, so she might want to have a bigger size. Would she want the 7.5" of positive ease that the 41" would give her? Even for Toni and her layers, that seems like a teensy bit much--6" would be a better fit, so if there were a 39" size, that would be great. The hem length seems a little short on Toni, so I'd bring the length down just a bit. Otherwise: I love the sleeve length, the armholes give her plenty of room to move around, and it's a cute style on her. What about a navy blue for Toni? Pretty.


Kat Her bust: 40" 3.75" negative ease The sample garment is too small, at least to wear as a jacket. I'd choose the 44" for Kat so she'd have some room to move around in. I'd also like to see the sleeves be a bit longer, and in the 44", they are a full inch longer than in the size she's wearing. Notice that it's not just the bust area where things are tight--see how it pulls across her upper chest and back? The 44" would definitely be more comfortable. Another point to note: If she were wearing the proper size, the jacket would be the drapey A-line it was designed to be. Here, it is so tight it conforms to her shape--not that that's a bad thing, but just something to note.



Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 1.75" positive ease I think this is cute on Debbie (but then, what isn't cute on Debbie?), however, she wouldn't be able to wear much underneath. The next size up, the 41", would give her 6.5" of positive ease, making for a very comfy, loose fit. In the sample garment, you can see that things pull just a bit across Debbie's upper body--not much, but just a bit, especially when she moves around. (Maybe Debbie ought to stop working out at the gym so much. Those monster muscles of hers won't fit in the sweaters!) The sleeves are a bit long, so in any size, Debbie would need to shorten them a little, to help her find her fingers when she needs them. The hem length is perfect.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 2.25" positive ease Take a look at Debbie's photos, and then look at Stefanie's. Stefanie has a little more positive ease across the bust than Debbie, but overall, the jacket looks smaller on Stefanie than on Debbie. Stefanie's shoulders are wider, her torso is longer, and thus her overall proportions are different than Debbie's. Stefanie could definitely use a larger size--although she'd want to keep the sleeve length pretty much as it is here. Since this is an A-line jacket, it is really important to get a good fit across the shoulders and yoke area, since the entire garment falls (and widens) from there. If you are worried about your fit, again, measure a garment you already have that fits you the way you would like the jacket to fit you (it doesn't need to be a jacket!). Compare those measurements to the schematics in the pattern, and choose the size that most closely matches your desired measurements.



Erin Her bust: 38" 1.75" negative ease For a loose, comfy jacket to be worn as outerwear, Erin could choose the 44" and be quite happy. For a closer-fitting "suit jacket" look, she could choose the 41". The sleeves need to be longer, as does the hem. Pretty color on her, though!


Sandi Her bust: 40" 3.75" negative ease The shoulders pulled on this a lot for me, so I couldn't move around very well. (Who knew I was such a linebacker?) To knit this for myself, I would choose the 44" for a close "suit jacket" fit and the 47.75" for a looser "outerwear" fit. I loved the sleeve length, but I think the hem needs to be lower.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 2.25" positive ease I think that the fit here is distorted due to Bertha's lack of, um, upper limbs. Arms would help the shoulders fill out--and since the entire garment falls from the shoulder area, the fit would be better with arms. And shoulders.

Knitscene Fall 2008 Dirndl Raglan

Jason — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 05:00:00 GMT

Gallery: Dirndl Raglan by Amanda Furlan

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Dirndl Raglan Sample garment measures 38.25".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 4.75" positive ease Size: This size makes a nice, cozy, comfy weekend sweater on Toni...but it's really too big on her (see the underarms? see how the shoulders hang off of her? Yep). The next size down, 35", is really going to fit her better. Length: The next size down is going to be 1.75" shorter, which will help--this size is too long on Toni, at least in my opinion. I think she could easily bring the hem up by two or three inches. If the cabled hem sat right at her hips it would help to balance the top of the sweater better. Sleeves: Here, they are too long--they pull the eye downwards and emphasize Toni's hips, instead of highlighting the curve at her waist and helping to keep the eye moving up towards her face. You want the beginning of the cuff to sit just about an inch or so below the elbow. It's about a half-inch to an inch too long on Toni. Also, note that the sleeves overall are a bit too full--this can be remedied by having Toni make the next size smaller. Neckline: It seems a bit high to me, but that could be just me.		Stefanie Her bust: 34" 4.25" positive ease Size: Again, as on Toni, this size makes for a comfy, roomy fit; but she might want to try the next size down for a closer fit. Sleeves: Almost the right length, enough so that I'm thinking the next size down would put them at exactly the right height. Length: Shorter, methinks. Two inches? Neckline: The width is right, but the depth could go a little deeper on Stef. That means she would work a few more rows at the top before joining at the neck to work in the round.


Amy Her bust: 39" 0.75" negative ease Size: This is adorable on Amy. The trim compliments her playful nature, and the smooth lines accent her curves in lovely ways. It's a great size on her--just enough negative ease to skim her curves, but not so much that she is uncomfortable. Sleeves: Fine--there is a bit of extra fullness in the upper arm, but that is the intended style of this sweater. Length: I think this is fine, or it could be a bit shorter, just an inch or so. Neckline: Perfect!


Kat Her bust: 40" 1.75" negative ease Size: I love this on Kat. It looks like something she'd actually have in her closet and wear all winter long. Length: Perfect. Sleeves: Perfect. Neckline: Perfect-o!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 3.75" positive ease Size: Too big, methinks. The 35" would still give her a bit of positive ease and give her better fit in the underarms and sleeves. Sleeves: Too long and too big overall. Going down a size will definitely help with this, but Debbie will want to make sure the top of the cuff comes just under her elbow so that it is closer to her waist curve. Neckline: The neck opening seems just a bit wide on her, so I'd add extra stitches at each side of the neck to pull things in a bit. Length: I'd like to see this a bit shorter on her.


Sandi My bust: 40" 1.75" negative ease Size: Good for a close fit. If I wanted things a bit looser, there is a 40". But I like the fit of this one. Sleeves: Good! They hit just below my elbow and just at my natural waist. Neckline: I personally would like the neckline a bit lower--not much, just a bit. The width is good. Length: Shorter, please.


Erin Her bust: 38" 0.25" positive ease Size: Pretty darn perfect. If Erin preferred a more clingy look, she could go down to the 35", but that would be a lot of cling! Sleeves: Tall Erin needs about another inch or so to drop the cuffs to below her elbows. Neckline: Good width and depth. Length: Well...dare I say it? I think the length is GREAT here. She could even (gasp!) shorten this a bit.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 4.25" positive ease Size: Wow. Too big. Very comfy, for those long chilly weekends in the office when everyone else is at home, but still: Too big. Next size down would be much more flattering. Sleeves: (ever so politely:) No comment. Neckline: It looks too wide on Ms. B, as well as a tiny bit deep. Length: Too long, which the next size down should take care of to some extent.

Knitscene Fall 2008 Riding to Avalon

Jason — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 05:00:00 GMT

Gallery: Riding to Avalon by Connie Chang Chinchio

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Riding to Avalon Sample garment shown measures 34.75".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 1.25" positive ease Size: Love it! Sleeves: Good. Unless Toni wanted them to come to her knuckles (also a cute look), these are fine. Waist: Could be just a bit lower so the shape sits more easily on her hips. Length: Great. Hood: Someone please call Hollywood, because we have a gorgeous blonde elf woman here for their next installment of Tolkien.


Amy Her bust: 39" 4.25" negative ease Size: Why does Amy look adorable in every single sweater, even if it's too small for her? I don't know, but she must have inherited the Adorable Gene. All right, back to business: This size is too tight on her, so there are two options, depending on how Amy would like the hoodie to fit: she could go for the 38.75", which would be a smidgeon of negative ease, or she could go for the 42.75", which would give her some room and fit more comfortably (especially if she wanted to wear a shirt underneath). I think the larger size, with the extra positive ease, would be more cloak-ish, and look more as Connie The Designer intended it to. Sleeves: The sleeve length here is perfect! Look how it comes down to her knuckles--I love that look. Waist: There is very gentle waist shaping in this hoodie, and I think in the larger size, it would fall at a better place on Amy. Currently, it is too high, almost under her bustline. Hood: The hood height is fine, but the depth (front to back) seems a bit shallow--see how it doesn't quite come over her hairline? If it's too shallow, she'd feel as though it were always falling off; plus, it would not give her any coverage for her eyes and face in the rain. That might be remedied in the larger size; if not, she could add increases as described below for Debbie. Length: Whoo! Short. At least an inch, if not two, longer would be good.


Kat Her bust: 40" 5.25" negative ease Size: This is quite curve-fitting on Kat--see how the waistband of her jeans shows through? I'd recommend the 42.75" for comfort and breathing room! A larger size would also give her more room in the armhole, which right now looks a bit tight. Sleeves: On the one hand (sorry...), Kat works with her hands quite a bit, so a sleeve that comes to her knuckles might get in her way too much. However, Kat loves period details in clothing, so the longer sleeves might be fun for her! Either way, I think the sleeves need to come down at least to cover her wrists. Length: She needs about an inch to an inch and a half more, methinks. Hood: I just love these "hood-up" photos. There's something about the way a hood frames the face that just brings out the loveliness in all these models. Perhaps that's why we love hoodies in the first place--they are lovely, knitted frames for the best part of each of us. Well. Anyway. This hood is a bit short on Kat--she has a longish neck, but she also has long hair and likes to wear it up a lot, so she needs extra height in the hood. ("Gimme extra height in the hood, baby." Yeah, right. I am soooo street.) This would be accomplished by adding extra rows before beginning to shape the top. She could also throw in some extra increase rows to add more depth as for Debbie below. Voila!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 0.25" positive ease Size: Absotively Too Cute. If Debbie wanted to wear this just as is, it is really adorable. If she wanted it looser, so she could wear something underneath, or just have a more comfy fit, then she could go up a size. Sleeves: Great length. Hood: The height is good, but the depth seems a bit shallow. The hood depth is created by working an increase row every few rows; to increase the depth, she could either work (a) more increase rows (and work them more frequently, so the shaping remains over the same vertical distance) or (b) work more increases on each increase row. (The first option would make the shaping a bit more gentle than the second.) Length: I think it's perfect!


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.75" positive ease Size: I love this! (Stefanie loved it too; I thought we were never going to get her out of it.) The closer fit and styling matches Stefanie's slightly edgier, more artistic, personal style. Sleeves: Great length. Waist: I think the waist shaping needs to be dropped a bit to match Stefanie's natural waist. Length: This cropped length suits Stefanie's love of the layered look, but for warmth, she might want the hoodie a bit longer. Hood: Adorable. The shape of the hood opening exactly matches the shape of Stef's face...sooo pretty.


Sandi Her bust: 40" 5.25" negative ease Size: Although this is cute as is, I would make at least the 42.75" so I could have a bit of positive ease to play with. Waist: I think it is a bit high in this smaller size, so for the larger size, I'd do some measuring and compare with the schematic. Sleeves: I'd like mine a bit longer, down around my knuckles, so I would check the measurements of the larger size and adjust accordingly. Length: More, please. The larger size would probably help with this. Hood: Someone make a second call to Hollywood, 'cuz this time we have ourselves a gen-u-iiine Hobbit.


Erin Her bust: 38" 3.25" negative ease Size: Wow. Um. Does the phrase "close fitting" apply here? Yep. The next size up, 38.75" would be much more comfortable for Ms. Erin. (The 42.75" size would be almost five inches of positive ease, which is a bit much.) Sleeves: She needs about another two or three inches here. And just a wild thought: Since Erin's arms are so long, what if she made the textured cuff section a bit longer, long enough to add one more button? Remember that in clothing, it is often the proportions as well as the actual sizing which one must pay attention to. Longer arms might look more graceful with longer embellished cuffs. It would be something to try, right? Waist: Well. The larger size will definitely help here, but the waist probably will still need to come down a bit. Length: She needs to add about four, possibly five inches at the hem. Hood: Tall folk often have longer necks, and this is the case with Ms. Erin. Extra rows would need to be added before the top shaping to add height. Also: A deeper hood would help to balance the extra height, so Erin could add increases to add depth as explained for Debbie.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.75" positive ease Size: Awww. This is very, very cute on Ms. B. She doesn't wear layers much, so this is a good size for her. Sleeves: Next question, please. Waist: Looks a bit high here. I'd bring it down a couple of inches. Hood: I just couldn't resist that photo. (Poor Bertha. The things she has to put up with from me.)

Knitscene Fall 2008 Opulent Raglan

Jason — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 02:15:00 GMT

Gallery: Opulent Raglan by Wendy Bernard

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Overall Comments "Wendy. We must talk. You simply cannot keep designing more and more cute sweaters, over and over, because I simply cannot knit fast enough to make them all. Really. Have mercy. Love, Sandi." "Cute" hardly describes this one, however. "Beautiful"? How about "lovely"? Add to that the fabulous top-down construction and it's no wonder so many of you were entranced by this sweater enough to ask to see it in the Galleries. Large-busted gals: You may want to start the neckline at a higher point, to allow enough fabric to give yourself good coverage. Also take care with the height of the ruffle at the sleeves--don't let it fall at the same height as your bust, or it will emphasize the fullness there. Smaller-busted women: Make sure that the neckline is not too wide--you don't want it falling off your shoulders! Measure the width of a neckline you are comfortable with, and use that as a guide. About adjusting the length: If you want a shorter or longer sweater, you can add or subtract repeats of the cable sequence on the front. However, each cable repeat is about 4" long, so this is not a good way to make small adjustments of an inch or so. If you need to make a small adjustment, then consider adding/subtracting a single set of rounds in the middle of each long cable (in the section marked as Rounds 1-20 in the stitch pattern). This will make each long cable longer or shorter by two rounds. You have to make sure to add/subtract the two rows to ALL the repeats of the cable all the way down if you do this. NOTE: This will change the proportions of the cables slightly. If you are worried about this, make a generous swatch first to try things out and see how you like them. Opulent Raglan Sample shown measures 34.75".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 1.25" positive ease Size: Good--a bit large, but good. Why? Because Toni gets cold easily, and likes to be able to layer her clothing. The small amount of positive ease here gives her room for more layers; the sweater still fits her curves in an attractive way. If she wanted a closer fit, then she could make the next size down. Neckline: Toni felt this neckline was a bit wide for her, and also a bit low. She would want to work more stitches at the neck edges to bring the sides in, and to join for working the neck a few rows earlier than in the pattern to bring the neckline higher. Waist: The waist is too high, by at least an inch. She would start the waist shaping later in this top-down sweater; she might want to adjust the spacing of the decreases according. Sleeves: I'd like to see the top of the belled cuff hit Toni right at her natural waist, which means the cuff should be raised by about an inch or so.


Amy Her bust: 39" 4.25" negative ease Size: The large gauge and forgiving stretch of the gorgeous yarn give this sweater a lot of leeway for our negative ease girls. This sweater looks OK on Amy, but a larger size, perhaps the 36.5", with 2.5" of negative ease, would be more comfortable and still hug her curves. Neckline: The neckline gives Amy good coverage, and it's fine if she wants to wear something underneath. However, to wear this sweater by itself, Amy needs the sides of the neck to come in a bit (to cover her bra straps). So she would have to add more stitches at the sides of the neck to bring it in more. Waist: Perfect! This shaping accentuates Amy's stunning hourglass figure. Sleeves: The cuffs are at precisely the right height to help show off Amy's hourglass.


Kat Her bust: 40" 5.25" negative ease Size: I actually think this size fits Kat very well. Again, the difference between the fit for Amy and the fit for Kat is that most of Amy's circumference is in front, whereas with Kat, things are more evenly distributed around her ribcage. Neckline: The shoulders fit Kat well, and cover her bra straps without any problem. The bottom of the neck is a bit racy, but not a problem unless Kat thinks it is a problem. Waist: Perfect! Sleeves: Perfect.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 0.25" positive ease Size: This size fits Debbie loosely but well. If she wanted a closer fit, she could go down to the 32.25" size (for 1.25" of negative ease). Neckline: The neck opening seems a bit wide to me, so I would bring the sides in about an inch on each side. The depth seems OK. Waist: Looks good. Sleeves: The cuff is a bit low, so I'd bring it up a bit. Overall length: I think this sweater is just a bit too long on Debbie. She could shorten it by working one less repeat of the cable pattern. (See note above about adjusting length.)


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.75" positive ease Size: I think this size is fine, but again, if Stefanie wanted a closer fit, she could easily go down to the 33.25", which would give her .75" of negative ease. Neckline: Seems a bit wide to me, so Stefanie could bring it in by about an inch on each side. Waist: I'd bring the waist down by about an inch and a half to match Stefanie's natural waist. In a top-down sweater, you might also adjust the spacing of the decreases on the way down to the waist. Sleeves: I would then adjust the sleeves so they are a tiny bit longer and the cuff sits a bit lower. Length: The sweater seems a bit long, so I would ask Stefanie if the length was OK or if it was worth the work to make a small adjustment (less than 4").		Sandi Her bust: 40" 5.25" negative ease Size: I like this. It's pretty darn form-fitting, however, so if I wanted something a bit looser, I could make the 36.5" and have about half the amount of negative ease as you see here. Neckline: Seems a bit big on me, so I would bring in the sides a bit. Waist: Lower those decreases! My waist is about one and a half inches further down. Sleeves: I like!


Erin Her bust: 38" 3.25" negative ease Size: I like this size on Erin, except for the obviously length issues. Neckline: If Erin wants to wear this sweater without anything underneath, then she would need to narrow the sides and raise the bottom a bit. Waist: The waist needs to be lowered here to match Erin's natural waistline. It looks as though the waist shaping here is almost "underbust" shaping! Sleeves: Longer, please, so that the cuffs are at her waist. I am also noticing that the sleeves seem a bit tight on her athletic arms, so Erin might want to make sleeves using the next size larger's numbers, adjusting the armhole fit accordingly. Length: Yep, it needs to be just a bit longer--not an entire cable repeat longer, though. Erin would be one of those folks adding two rounds to each long cable to get just a bit more length.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.75" positive ease Size: This is pretty on Bertha, but a bit loose. Maybe the 33.25"? The neckline fits well and is stunning on her, considering that Bertha never needs to wear a bra. The waist is at precisely the correct height for Bertha's amazing hourglass. The sleeves...well. Too long, but actual arms might change that. (Sorry, B.)
Knitting Daily Hot Tomatoes on TV! Remember Wendy Bernard's Tomato from No Sheep For You? Remember how I made a bright orange version with bust darts and called it the Hot Tomato? Well, several of you Knitting Daily readers also made your own versions of Wendy's Tomato. They were so cute that we asked some of you to send in your sweaters to be filmed for Episode 102 of the new Knitting Daily TV show! On the show, Wendy walks us through each sweater and what adjustments were made--I was so tickled to see something I'd made on television! The show itself begins airing on select PBS stations starting next Monday... but if you can't wait, you can pre-order a DVD of the entire first season now --the DVD is available Monday, July 21st. Wendy is also featured in Episode 101 (can you tell I'm a big Wendy fan?). Wendy's patterns are irresistible--remember when I fell in love with the Elinor Tunic in Interweave Knits Summer 2008? I wanted to take that one home with me after we took the photos for the Elinor Gallery...

Knitscene Fall 2008 Kaftan Dress

Jason — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 02:13:00 GMT

Gallery: Kaftan Dress by Salena Lee

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Kaftan Dress Sample garment shown measures 36.5".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 3" positive ease Size: The side view says it all: Wow. Perfect size! (I think in the front view, Toni is moving around a bit, hence the folds.) Length: The length really adds height to Toni, who is actually less than 5'4". However, Toni, who is here standing over my shoulder as I typed this, mentioned that she might make the dress a bit longer so that it went just past her knees so she could wear it with BOOTS. Rock it, Toni! Sleeves: Good length! Garter waistband: Again, the side view shows this better--it's in a perfect placement on Toni. V-neck and shoulders: Nice! Lucky Toni that this sample dress fits her so well. (We'll be sure to check her backpack at the end of the day...)


Amy Her bust: 39" 2.5" negative ease Size: Wow! Amy can really rock this tunic in ways that none of us expected! This amount of negative ease gives the tunic a sexy look that is quite different from the one bestowed upon it in its positive ease incarnations. If Amy wanted a looser, more "tunic-y" look, then she would want to make at least the 39.5" size. Length: I like this length on Amy, for the tunic look. Sleeves: Good length here as well. Garter waistband: Needs to be lower. She would start the waistband sooner, so that it brackets her natural waist, and then make the same adjustments Stef would make: leave the bust darts in place, but add more rows between the top of the garter band and the armholes in order to make the top bodice triangles longer so they cover the bust. V-neck and shoulders: Good! I've liked this shaping on everyone. It's low, but I am assuming most gals would either go daring with skin or go modest and wear something lacy underneath.		Stefanie Her bust: 34" 2.5" positive ease Size: A comfortable fit, although the jeans Stef is wearing underneath show through a bit too much. But we Knitting Daily folks know how to fix such things, don't we? Yup: Add more increases at the sides on the way up to the bottom of the garter waistband, to give Stef a bit more room in the hips. Not much, just an inch or so. Length: Good length on Stef. Sleeves: Good, although could be a scootch longer if Stef wanted them that way. Garter waistband: It hits Stef a bit too high--right across the middle of the Girls. Then when it angles down, it hits too high, at the underbust, not at her waist. Solution? Start the waistband lower, so that it hits her natural waist at the sides. The angle is fine, so no alterations need to be made to the band itself; however, the triangles over the Girls will have to start sooner. She would keep the bust darts where they are, and add extra rows to the section from underarm to V-neck to add the needed extra length there. (Got all that? Whew.) V-neck and shoulders: Looks good!


Kat Her bust: 40" 3.5" negative ease Styling: Kat got brave and decided to show this off as a dress rather than a tunic. Yes, her slip shows and she apologises for not wearing the correct color slip (but really--who has a forest green slip?). However, that does point out that if you intend to wear this as a dress, pay attention to your undergarments, as they will show through in some places. Size: Rockin' that negative ease, dear Kat! But, she could probably rock the next size up a bit more comfortably, and not worry about the dress clinging to every single thing underneath. Length: For a dress...well. This is pretty short. If you like short, go for it. I'd personally lengthen it in the stockinette section and maybe add or subtract some of the lace border depending on the effect Kat wanted. Sleeves: A bit short. More, please! Garter waistband: It needs to be lowered, both at the sides to match her natural waist, and in the middle, so that it falls more naturally under her bustline. See the notes for Amy and Stef above for how to do this. V-neck and shoulders: Whoo! Very sexy effect for a little knitted dress. To bring the neck up, Kat could work more rows right above the waistband (keeping the top darts in place) before splitting for the V-neck. Or she could just wear a long, sparkly necklace and just wow the crowds. Up to her.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 2" positive ease Size: This is a comfortable fit on Debbie. It accents her curves without being overly clingy. (This is especially important if you are going to wear it as a tunic over jeans--if the tunic is too clingy, then too much of the waistband of the jeans shows underneath, and breaks up the smooth line of this pretty dress.) Length: I did a quick poll of the Gallery Gals, and we think this is too long on Debbie (if she wears it as a tunic)--it elongates her hips and thighs, and pulls the eye downwards, instead of up towards her pretty face. This dress is easily shortened in the stockinette section, fortunately; Debbie could even shorten the lace border if she wanted that to be a bit more in proportion as well. Sleeves: Good length. Garter waistband: This runs nicely just under her bust, creating a high empire waist effect, then angles downwards to meet her real waist at the sides. Perfect! V-neck and shoulders: A bit dramatic unless Debbie wants to wear a cami underneath all the time. The shoulders fit well.


Erin Her bust: 38" 1.5" negative ease Size: Maybe just a bit too clingy on Ms. Erin. The next size up would give her 1.5" of positive ease, which would probably be more comfortable for her, and also not show every line of every piece of clothing she is wearing underneath! Length: As a tunic, the length works well on tall Erin. However, the balance between the stockinette section and the lace border bothers me...I think the lace comes up too far, so I would add more to the stockinette section and perhaps shorten the lace section. Just a thought. Sleeves: Way too short. More, please. Garter waistband: Too high. Needs to be lowered as with Amy and Kat. V-neck and shoulders: I think it's fine, as long as Erin wears something underneath.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 2.5" positive ease Size: Bertha, darling. This positively HANGS on you. All right, yes, I know, sometimes a nice loose knitted dress can be a girl's best friend, but really. Show a little shape, girl; this dress adds twenty pounds to you! Next size down for you, dear. Length: Well. Who can tell? It covers the bottom of her white dress form just fine. Sleeves: Bertha wonders why we must keep bringing up this rather rude subject. Garter waistband: It does hit her right at her natural waist, 'tis true. However, under her bust, it's not quite as form-fitting as perhaps the designer intended. However, there are some folks who might prefer this more modest look. Also, someone with Bertha's other proportions but a larger chest might need the extra fabric above the bustline. V-neck and shoulders: Woo. That neckline is quite dramatic. Bertha, I had no idea you were that kind of flashy dresser. Raising the garter band just under the bust would also raise the V-Neck. That would mean working more short-rows under that empire band and its point, as this is how that section is raised up. That would mean some measuring and math. If you have a long distance between your natural waist and where the garter waist band needs to hit you under the bust, then short rows are going to be your friend. Add more of them to that triangle under the band and there you go.


Sandi Her bust: 40" 3.5" negative ease Size: Hoooboy. This size is a cling monster! I'd feel more comfortable with the 39.5" and a bit more ease. This size shows you even the secret lumps and bumps. Eep. I also think that I need more room in the tummy and hip area overall, so I would add some increases at the sides there, even in the larger size. Length: I think it's a good length for a tunic. I like Toni's idea of adding enough length to it so I could wear it as a dress, with boots. Whoo! Sleeves: Maybe a bit short? I'd like them a bit longer, so they hit me at my wrist bone. Garter waistband: Must. Go. Down. V-neck and shoulders: The V-neck will be lower if the waistband is lower, so that's good (I like the idea of wearing a lacy cami thingie underneath). The shoulders are fine.

Knitscene Fall 2008 Brocade Leaves

Jason — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 02:03:00 GMT

Gallery: Brocade Leaves by Kathy Zimmerman

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Overall Comments on the Brocade Leaves: One look at the photos below, and you'll think that this sweater has amazingly graceful waist shaping. One look at the pattern itself, and you realize that the opposite is true: This sweater is basically two rectangles with a V-neck and sleeves. So why does it look so curvy and gorgeous on all of our models? Because Kathy Zimmerman is a genius. She's picked an elegant, all-over stitch pattern that is elastic like ribbing, yet not quite so clingy. The result is a comfortable, form-fitting sweater that shows off your curves without showing off what you have in your back pocket. This sweater was a surprise hit amongst our Gallery Gals! The yarn is soft and not a bit scratchy; the sweater is as comfortable as it is flattering. Make it in a light color to really let the stitch pattern pop; or in a dark color for a more subtle effect. Brocade Leaves Sample shown is 33.5".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" Zero ease Size: Great! Sleeves: Could these be longer? Maybe just a bit. V-neck: Toni does not like to show a lot of skin, so she thinks the neckline here on her is a bit low to wear without something under it. If she wanted to wear it alone, she would have to knit a less dramatic V. Color: I love the deep brown, but Toni has such a delicate complexion that I'd like to see her in something much lighter, or much more colorful. The brown overpowers her! Otherwise: Toni looks like she's ready to curl up with a book and some hot chocolate on a rainy day.		Kat Her bust: 40" 6.5" negative ease Size: Kat prefers a close fit, so this might be perfect for her. However, if she wanted a looser fit, she could easily go up to the 38", with 2" of negative ease. (If Kat wanted a really loose fit, she could go for the 42", but I think that that would be a LOT of loose fabric adding extra weight and width around her nice figure!) Sleeves: Too short. More, please. V-neck: I like the depth here; if Kat goes up a size, she'd have to check the measurements. Color: Kat loves green. What about a rich avocado green? Yum. Otherwise: This is very flattering on Kat. She should have several, in lots of shades of green!


Amy Her bust: 39" 5.5" negative ease Size: Well, goodness. This size 33.5" still looks good, even with a lot of negative ease. That goes to show how stretchy and forgiving this stitch pattern is. (Brilliant, Kathy.) But for a bit more comfort, Amy might want a larger size, say, the 38". Sleeves: They look like they are about perfect here, so in a larger size, Amy would want to do some measuring to see if they would still be OK. V-neck: Perfect. Color: This is a good color for Amy's complexion--she has a lot of color in her face, so she can pull this off. But blue is one of Amy's favorite colors... Otherwise: This sweater shows off Amy's curves in an attractive way, which is unusual for "box" sweaters. It does not add a lot of bulk, and it does not cling too tightly.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 1" negative ease Size: Perfect. Sleeves: Perfect. V-neck: Perfect. Color: Perfect. (Sigh. Sometimes it is very demoralizing to write these little commentaries for Certain People Who Always Look Perfect In Everything.)


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.5" negative ease Size: Perfect (here we go again...). Sleeves: Perfect. V-neck: Perfect. Color: (I refuse to write another "perfect"!) Stefanie would look stunning in a cream or off-white version to match her fabulous earrings.		Erin Her bust: 38" 4.5" negative ease Size: Even though this looks really swell on Erin, she might be more comfortable in the size 38". Sleeves: Longer, please. The hem too. V-neck: Erin doesn't like to show too much skin either, so she might bring up the V just a bit by starting it later and doing fewer decrease rows on the way up to the shoulder. Color: Brown is pretty on her, but what if it were steel blue to match her eyes? Yeah, baby.


Sandi Her bust: 40" 6.5" negative ease Size: I liked this, but I also felt that the small size added visual pounds to me--the small size clung more tightly to my tummy, which is not really my best bit. I'd like a larger size, please--probably the 38". Sleeves: Could be a tiny bit longer. V-neck: Whoo. A bit deep on me. It's not too bad, but I feel self-conscious, and it's really important to note how you FEEL in a garment, not just how it looks on you. Up with the V-neck. Color: The brown does look good, but brown is not a color I wear a lot of. Could mine be black? Or (wait for it...) a nice plum purple?		Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.5" negative ease Size: I like it, even though it hangs a bit loose on Bertha. She could go a size smaller if she wanted to. Sleeves: Hush now. Let's not be rude. V-neck: A bit racy on Ms. B, but not too bad. Color: Bertha's coloring allows her to wear a variety of colors, but this one is pretty strong for her clear, almost glowing complexion. How about a deep dusty rose?

Knitscene Fall 2008 Ahlstrom Bodice

Jason — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 02:00:00 GMT

Gallery: Ahlstrom Bodice by Lou Schiela

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Ahlstrom Bodice Sample sweater shown measures 34".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 0.5" positive ease Size: Here's a case where personal preference comes into play: This is cute as-is on Toni, but to my eyes, it looks a wee bit loose on her. If Toni were up for a smaller size, I'd recommend she try the 30", which would give her 3.5" negative ease and thus skim her curves in a very bodice-like way. Waist: The waist would definitely need to be lower--see how it hits her so high that the nice "flare-at-the-hips" is actually flaring out into space? Yep. That flare needs to be lower so it sits on her actual hips. However, for this particular garment, she should add most of the extra length ABOVE the waist shaping, and not necessarily add too much length below the waist. Why? Well, she wouldn't want the front "point" pointing too low. So: She could add perhaps a half-inch to the lower section below the waist, but add perhaps an inch-and-a-half or more to the section above the waist. This would move the waist indentation to where she needs it to be, keep the flare sitting on her hips, and not lengthen the point too much. Sleeves: Toni mentioned that the sleeves were tight on her athletic upper arms, so she could knit a larger size for the sleeves and adjust the sleeve cap accordingly so it fit the armhole. Toni could also use some added length at the cuff. Neck opening: This seems a bit wide to me on broad-shouldered Toni. She could narrow the front panel on both sides just a bit to bring in the sides of the neck opening.


Amy Her bust: 39" 5" negative ease Size: Whoo. This fits Amy like a medieval GLOVE. Now the question is: Does Amy like medieval gloves? Maybe, maybe not. I will say that I watched Amy pull this on, and it was a bit of a struggle. So perhaps a bit less negative ease and a larger size would help her feel more comfy (although we all admitted that the top looks GREAT on her, so there you are). Waist: The waist needs to be several inches lower; but as with Toni, you wouldn't want that point getting TOO low. Amy could add maybe an inch below the waist and maybe two inches above the waist to get that shaping into place. Sleeves: The sleeves are a smooth fit and hit right at her wrist bone. Nice. Neck opening: I think it's fine, although if she makes the larger size, I'd want her to do some measuring and comparing with the schematic to check that it would still be fine.


Kat Her bust: 40" 6" negative ease Size: Even though Kat's measurements are slightly bigger than Amy's, I think this top fits her better than Amy. Why? Well, Kat's ribcage is bigger than Amy's; Amy has larger assets up front. In other words: For Kat, the circumference is more evenly distributed around the entire front and back of the sweater; for Amy, the sweater has to be more generous in one (er, two) particular location(s). This affects things such as armhole fit, where the waist falls, and so on. Waist: Kat needs the waist dropped a bit; in her case, she can also add some length to the front point without worrying too much. Look at the back photo: The little flare is not sitting properly on her hips, so the whole waist/hip shaping needs to be moved down. She could add perhaps an inch and a half to the bottom section, and an inch above, to help put the waist where it belongs. Sleeves: Does she want them short or long? Right now they seem at an odd in between length. Shorten to three-quarters, or lengthen to her wrist, one or the other. Neck opening: Looks good!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 0.5" negative ease Size: Can we have a reality check, please? Is there anything that looks bad on Debbie? (The crowd shouts a resounding "NO!") OK, thanks. I was starting to think I was getting a bit loopy looking at all these photos. So: This looks great on Debbie. If she wanted a tighter, more medieval fit, then she could make the smaller size, but she doesn't need it. Waist: I think it hits her exactly where it should hit her. Look at the back photo: It sits on her hips perfectly. You could lower the point just a tad, like a half-inch, but again, maybe not. Sleeves: She has plenty of room in the armholes, and the cuffs fall at a nice location. Neck opening: No problems there.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" No ease Size: I think this is a perfect size for Stefanie. Waist: The waist needs to be lower on Stefanie, but she does not necessarily need extra length below the waist. She could add two inches above the waist, making sure to space out the increases according, and it would be perfect. Sleeves and Neck Opening: Both fine, although maybe the sleeves are a bit short.


Erin Her bust: 38" 4" negative ease Size: Sometimes we Gallery Gals wonder if we even should show some of these on Erin, because her height makes them look like she is wearing munchkin clothing. Ah well. It's a learning exercise, right? Right. This is obviously a bit tight on Erin, as well as massively too short. The next size up, 38", would be zero ease, and might be a more attractive fit for her. Waist: Erin would have to do some careful measuring and comparing to the schematic to map out where the waist would fall on the larger size. Here, it is almost at her underbust and obviously needs to be much lower. Erin tells me that she always has to add several inches in length to her sweaters, so here, she would want to look at the schematic, figure out where that bottom point falls on the 38", and then measure herself to figure out how much length to add before and after the waist. Sleeves: The larger size would also give her more room in the armholes, and give her bigger sleeves, which would be more comfortable. The sleeves need to be lengthened by several inches. Neck opening: I think on the larger size it would be much better than it is here. Yarn note: Tall people need to buy extra yarn. (Think of it as increased opportunities to browse yarn shops.)


Sandi Her bust: 40" 6" negative ease Size: I know this looks kind of awesome on me (cough, cough), but I wouldn't wear it this tight unless I were going to the Renaissance Faire. In ordinary life, I'd make the 38" size, which would be easier to get on and be much more helpful in the breathing department. Waist: My waist is about an inch lower than the sweater's, which might be fixed by going up a size. Again, I'd check the schematic and see if I needed to adjust here. I would want to add some length below the waist, just because I like it that way. Sleeves: I need longer and larger sleeves, so again, the bigger size would help here also. Neck Opening: I think it's fine, and would measure the next size up to make sure it wasn't too big.


Bertha Her bust: 34" No ease Size: Bertha, my dear, this is too big on you. You need the next size down. Why does zero ease look too big on Bertha and yet not too big on the other girls? I think it has something to do with Bertha's assets. They are small. Also, Bertha has no arms, and arms help to pull up the top section of a sweater a bit by filling things out at the shoulders. Waist: I think it needs to be higher on Bertha, but the hip flares are in the right place. This means that Bertha's knitter-for-hire would have to work about a half-inch or an inch more between the hip decreases and the upper increases to lengthen that middle section. Sleeves: Let us not rub salt in a tender wound, shall we? Neck opening: Seems a bit too small, even though the sweater overall is too big. Bertha's knitter could widen the color panels, thus setting the sides of the neck opening further apart.

IWK Summer 2008 Brick Pullover

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:59:00 GMT

Gallery: Brick Pullover, design by Kathy Zimmerman

Brick Pullover This pullover has a very unusual construction: The front and back sections with the grid design are rectangles with blunted corners at the top; each sleeve/shoulder/neck section is a single piece. The two sleeve/shoulder/neck pieces are joined vertically at the center back and then sewn to the tops of the front and back rectangles. This forms a modified saddle shoulder, with no seam around the armholes. Interesting! Sample garment measures 42".


Aaron Chest: 39" Height: 5'11" 3" Positive Ease Aaron is only wearing one thin layer under the sweater, showing how it looks good on a range of chest sizes. Good length at both hem and sleeve. (It must be noted that Aaron did not want to give the sweater back.)		Eric Chest: 41" Height: 6'6" 1" Positive Ease Again, for a summer sweater, this size might be fine; but if Eric wanted to wear anything more than a tee shirt underneath, he would want the next size up. The sleeves definitely need lengthening; he might want the hem just an inch or so longer as well.


Mark Chest: 35.5" Height: 5'11" 6.5" Positive Ease Mark is wearing this sweater over a couple of layers, so it's a good example of how positive ease can help with layering! The length is good, the sleeves are good, and Mark really liked the feel and texture of the cotton/bamboo yarn. He also pointed out that the rusty brick "was not really his color," and said he'd like it in a blue or green.		T.J. Chest: 40.5" Height: 5'9" 1.5" Positive Ease T.J. is the only knitter in the group, and pointed out that he could make this sweater for himself, thank you very much! He would make the sleeves a bit longer to fit his long arms. For a spring/summer sweater, he felt this amount of ease was fine; but for a winter sweater, he would want the next size up, in order to give himself a bit more ease to fit over another layer or two.

		Plus One Not-Man: Sandi Chest: 41" Height: 5'4" on a tall day 1" Positive Ease This is a VERY comfortable sweater. However, I personally felt that it really called attention to my bustline, in a not-attractive sort of way. The V-neck ends too low, pointing at the horizontal line going straight across the top of my bust. It's kind of like a frame for The Ladies. Not good. Sewing up the V-neck would help, so that it did not point right at that seam. And lowering the seam might help, too! Wonder what it would look like with the seam running below the bustline? Or having the pattern be an all-over pattern? This points to an interesting fact: For men, having that line go across their chest with the contrast between plain and pattern right at chest level helps call attention to their manly chests. For a woman who may not want this kind of attention in that area, the design details would have to be modified according to her body type and knitting preferences.

IWK Summer 2008 Elinor Tunic

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:58:00 GMT

Gallery: Elinor Tunic, design by Wendy Bernard

Everyone wanted to take this tunic home with them (we checked everyone's backpack at the end of the day). We were a bit surprised at how great it looked on a variety of body types--we all assumed that the stripe at the hips would look terrible--but it didn't, it looked TERRIFIC! Elinor Tunic The sample garment is a size 32". In the magazine, it is modeled with about 2" of negative ease for a tailored fit.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 2" negative ease Waaay adorable on Stefanie, who is a perfect fit for this tunic. The only thing I might recommend is enlarging the armholes just a bit, because Ms. Workout Gal Stef's muscular arms need a bit more room to move about.		Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 2.5" negative ease I think this looks a little big on Debbie--not around the bust, but at the waist. Since the 32" is the smallest size, to compensate, I might bring in the waist shaping a bit more to emphasize her hourglass figure. The shoulders seem a bit wide on narrow-shouldered Debbie, so I would narrow those by a half-inch to an inch, so the sleeve edge sits just at the crease of her arm, or even just inside it a bit. However, this really depends on how she is going to wear the top--if she wears it bare-shouldered, as in this photo, the shoulder "straps" would indeed need a bit of narrowing. If she wears it over long-sleeved tops, then the wider straps would not be as noticeable.


Sandi Her bust: 41" 9" negative ease (whoo!) This just goes to show you: Knitted fabric really does stretch. The large gauge (4 sts to an inch) definitely helps. I was actually very comfortable in this top! I was worried about the colorwork band being right at my hips, but after looking at the photos, I think it balances out The Girls up top. What size would I knit? Hm. I'd probably do a size larger, just to be safe. But this size really doesn't look too bad on me. (Wendy, you are a genius, as usual.)


Erin Her bust: 38" 6" negative ease This is a bit too tight on Ms. Erin, so the next size up, 36", would be perfect for her. She also needs just a bit more length--about an inch or so.		Bertha Her bust: 34" 2" negative ease I think Bertha has lost some weight, don't you? :) This looks a little big on her, especially down around the hips and at the armholes. Of course, actual arms and legs might improve the fit in these areas, but don't say that too loudly—Bertha is very sensitive about her lack of limbs.

IWK Summer 2008 Drawstring Raglan

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:55:00 GMT

Gallery: Drawstring Raglan, design by Margery Winter

Notes on fit: In the magazine, this sweater is shown slightly open, with about 0.75" positive ease. On our Gallery Gals, we also show it worn open, scooching the fabric back along the drawstring to create gentle pleats/folds from the drawstring downwards. These pleats are an important part of the overall design--notice how they correspond to the points in the lace pattern, giving the lace-and-stripe combination just a bit more graceful emphasis. In other words: You could wear this little jacket pulled completely tight along the drawstring, but it wouldn't drape as gracefully. Keep this in mind when you are choosing a size for yourself--the finished widths shown on the schematic don't reflect the "as-worn" widths created by the pleats. If you like the pleats, and are in doubt between two sizes, choose the larger one and scooch the pleats together a bit more! (For a look at what the jacket looks like without the pleats, see Erin's photo below.) Drawstring Raglan Sample garment shown is 32.75".


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 1.25" negative ease This is definitely too small on Stefanie--she cannot gracefully pull the jacket closed. Also, notice how the back "rides up"--in other words, the drawstring is at a higher level in back than in front, because in front, the drawstring must go under her bust. The next size up, 36.25", seems like it might be too big, but not if you scooched the pleats up a bit. Stefanie might also want to start the beige stockinette bodice about 1-2" earlier so that the drawstring went under her bustline all around. In other words: she would need the beige/plain stockinette section to start about 1-2" before she started the sleeves.


Katie Her bust: 38.5" 5.75" negative ease Notice that this looks as though it fits much better on Katie than on Stefanie, despite the huge difference in negative ease. What's going on here? A key "good fit" measurement for this garment is the underbust measurement, as that is where the drawstring pulls closed. Stefanie has a wider ribcage than Katie; thus Stefanie's underbust measurement is bigger and the 32.75" size looks smaller on her than on Katie. So even though Katie is pregnant and has a bigger bust than Stefanie, the top closes better. That said: Katie still might want to make the 36.25" size, for comfort as the baby grows. Katie might want to add some stripes to the lower half of the jacket in order to lengthen it--her call.		Sandi Her bust: 41" 8.5" negative ease Hoo, baby. Work that negative ease! However, this top is just tooo small--it looked silly when I tied it closed, and the drawstring hits me mid-bust instead of under the bust. The back rides up, as it did on Stefanie, only more so on me. Which size would I make? First of all, my underbust measurement is 37". The 36.25" seems just a bit too small--it would reach around my underbust, but not have a lot left over for those pretty graceful pleats (see Notes at top). The 40" seems like a better fit. Just to make sure, however, I check the hip measurements on the pattern schematic: The 40" size has a 48.5" hip circumference, which is perfect for my new slimmer 43.5" hips: that will fit around them, allowing some extra fabric for the pleats. Nice! Note that I would definitely start the beige/stockinette section about 2" lower/earlier, thus having about 2" of stockinette under my arms before I started the sleeves. This would allow the drawstring to fall in the proper place under my bust.

Erin Her bust: 38" 5.25" negative ease This actually might fit Ms. Erin if the drawstring section were 1-2" lower, as with Stefanie and me. However, notice that even though she can close it nicely, there is no extra fabric for gentle pleats. So the next size up might work better for her.		Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 1.75" negative ease Notice that Stefanie and Debbie have very similar bust sizes, yet the jacket fits very differently on these women! That's due to the underbust measurement. Stefanie has a wider rib cage, Debbie a narrower one. (Be sure to look the schematic and compare your own measurements at this critical point!) The jacket fits Debbie rather well, despite the fact that we were having so much fun that we did not notice that the ties had come undone.
		Bertha Her bust: 34" 1.25" negative ease Ah, Bertha. Is there anything you do not look great in? Again, Bertha's underbust is extremely narrow, so the jacket pulls almost all the way closed on her, leaving just a bit of fabric for delicate pleats. Sooo pretty.

Knitting Daily Galleries : Galleries

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Rosamund's Cardigan

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Every Way Wrap

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Nordique Swing

Nordique Swing

by Véronik Avery

Knits Fall 2009 Gallery: Freyja Sweater

Freyja Sweater

by Courtney Kelley

IWK Fall 2008 Little Blue Sweater

Gallery: Little Blue Sweater by Simona Merchant-Dest

Little Blue Sweater

Sandi

Erin

Stefanie

Debbie

Kat

Toni

Bertha

IWK Fall 2008 Backstage Tweed Jacket

Gallery: Backstage Tweed Jacket by Alina Khasanova

Backstage Tweed Jacket

Toni

Kat

Debbie

Stefanie

Erin

Sandi

Bertha

Knitscene Fall 2008 Dirndl Raglan

Gallery: Dirndl Raglan by Amanda Furlan

Dirndl Raglan

Toni

Stefanie

Amy

Kat

Debbie

Sandi

Erin

Bertha

Knitscene Fall 2008 Riding to Avalon

Gallery: Riding to Avalon by Connie Chang Chinchio

Riding to Avalon

Toni

Amy

Kat

Debbie

Stefanie

Sandi

Erin

Bertha

Knitscene Fall 2008 Opulent Raglan

Gallery: Opulent Raglan by Wendy Bernard

Opulent Raglan

Toni

Amy

Kat

Debbie

Stefanie

Sandi

Erin

Bertha

Knitscene Fall 2008 Kaftan Dress

Gallery: Kaftan Dress by Salena Lee

Kaftan Dress

Toni

Amy

Stefanie

Kat

Debbie

Erin

Bertha

Sandi

Knitscene Fall 2008 Brocade Leaves

Gallery: Brocade Leaves by Kathy Zimmerman

Brocade Leaves

Toni

Kat

Amy

Debbie

Plus One
Not-Man: Sandi