Knitting Daily Galleries : Pullovers

IWK Fall 2008 Little Blue Sweater

Knitting-Daily — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:17:00 GMT

Gallery: Little Blue Sweater by Simona Merchant-Dest

Notes from Sandi: The key to this sweater's success is to determine, for yourself, where you want the ribbing to end and the cabled section to begin. Do you want the ribbing to come right up under your bust? Or do you want it to fall somewhere in the vicinity of your waist? As you can see, the ribbing ended up in different places on all of us, so pick the look that you prefer, and customize it for your own measurements. To mimic the style shown in the magazine, have the ribbing end halfway between your underbust and your natural waist--this seemed to be the most attractive point on most of us Gallery Gals as well! As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Some links you might find helpful: Measuring yourself and your clothing About positive and negative ease Measuring tutorial with photos Little Blue Sweater Sample garment shown is 34.5"


Sandi Her bust: 40" 5.5" negative ease Size: The yarn, the gauge, and the stitch pattern give this sweater quite a bit of stretch, so the 5.5" of negative ease shown here really doesn't seem too unreasonable. However, the beautiful stitch pattern is distorted just a bit too much! Also, and this is a personal thing: you can clearly see the beige cami I am wearing underneath. I’m not so happy with that look. (In the magazine, this sweater is shown worn over another top, so if that's the look you're going for, ignore this part!) Hence, this is too much negative ease as far as I am concerned, at least in the cabled section. The 43.5" would be too big (3.5" positive ease), so I could probably get away with knitting the 39". If I wanted it just a little bigger, I might even consider going up a needle size. Note that I kind of like how the ribbed section fits--it doesn't bag out at all. I could compromise: Knit the ribbed section smaller, as it is here, and then increase up so that the cabled section was the bigger size. Ribbing: I actually kind of like where the ribbing falls on me--about halfway between my natural waist and my underbust. If it fell at my waist, it might bag out a bit just above that, and if it fell exactly at my underbust, it might look funny on me. Sleeves: Not bad, but I can't help wondering if they are just a bit too long. They seem to widen that entire top portion of me...


Erin Her bust: 38" 3.5" negative ease Size: Way. Too. Small. (Erin is such a trooper.) If Erin made the 39", she might be able to breathe a bit better, and the stitch pattern would not be as distorted as it is here. Ribbing: I think the ribbing needs to be lower. Here, it overemphasizes her full bust, and visually widens her hips. If the break between the ribbing and the cables were at her waist, or even halfway between waist and underbust, the effect would be more balanced. Sleeves and hem: The sleeves are actually fine, in terms of length. Erin might want them a bit longer, maybe about an inch or so. The hem needs to be about 5" longer.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease Size: I think the size is great on her! Ribbing: I like where it falls on Stefanie--it emphasizes all the right curves. Sleeves and length: I think the hem could come down just a bit, about an inch. The sleeves are adorable on her.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" Zero ease Size: It fits well, as far as size goes...but that ribbing needs to be lower by about two inches. Notice that the ribbing is quite a bit higher in front than in back, because Debbie Is Not A Refrigerator—in other words, her front has curves that the sweater has to travel over before it gets to the ribbing, while her back is a straight shot down. Bringing the ribbing down will help to even things out a bit. For Debbie, who has such a long waist, I'm thinking she could even bring the ribbing down to her natural waist, instead of halfway between her waist and underbust. That would be a pretty look on her--the cables for her upper half, and the ribbing to lay smoothly over her hips. Sleeves and such: The hem should be longer, please, by about two or three inches. However, on Debbie's delicate frame, I think the overall effect would be cuter if the sleeves were about two inches shorter.


Kat Her bust: 40" 5.5" negative ease Size: I think this has too much negative ease in the bust area (see how the pattern is distorted?), so for Kat, I'd recommend she go up to the the 39" size. However, Kat has slender arms and a slender waist, so she might want to consider making the 39" in the bust area, but make smaller sizes in the sleeves and ribbing sections. Example: Cast on for the smaller size at the hem, then increase for the cabled section; work the smaller sleeves and adjust the armholes accordingly. Or...there's always needle size changes. Ribbing: Because of Kat's slender waist, the high placement of the ribbing looks really cute on her. I think she could leave this as is, if that is the look she wanted. Length and sleeves: I think the hem could come down about an inch, not much more. The sleeves seem to be a bit long in proportion to the overall sweater on Kat.


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 1" positive ease Size: This looks a teensy bit big on Toni, unless she wants to knit it with a size smaller needles OR wear layers underneath. Guess what?! Toni is a layers kind of gal, so the size is actually just perfect for her. Ribbing: I think the ribbing is too high for her long torso--it kind of smushes her vertically ("smushes," that's a technical term, right?). I'd start the ribbing earlier so it falls halfway between her underbust and her natural waist. Length and sleeves: I'd like a slightly lower hemline on Toni, to show off her long and lovely frame. As for the sleeves, I'd like them to be a bit shorter, maybe about two inches shorter, so that they do not overwhelm her petite self.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease Size: Even though Bertha's bust measurement is theoretically right for the sweater's size, somehow the sweater just hangs on her. I think this is not really due to the garment's bust measurement, but more to the fit in the ribbed section. In other words: The bust fits fine, but that ribbing… Ribbing: OK, here we go. The ribbing needs to come up about two inches higher on her, so that it helps the sweater pull in and hug her curves. Also, I think the ribbing is too loose for Bertha's slender hips, so that section could be worked in a smaller needle size to help pull things in. However, I'm worried that even that wouldn't be enough--see how the ribbing isn't stretching, not even a bit? If it doesn't stretch even a bit, then it won't cling to her hips as it was intended to do. Bertha's knitting pals would probably need to cast on fewer stitches at the hem, work up to the end of the ribbing, then do a few increases to bring the stitch count up to where it needs to be for the bust.

Knitscene Fall 2008 Dirndl Raglan

Jason — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 05:00:00 GMT

Gallery: Dirndl Raglan by Amanda Furlan

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Dirndl Raglan Sample garment measures 38.25".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 4.75" positive ease Size: This size makes a nice, cozy, comfy weekend sweater on Toni...but it's really too big on her (see the underarms? see how the shoulders hang off of her? Yep). The next size down, 35", is really going to fit her better. Length: The next size down is going to be 1.75" shorter, which will help--this size is too long on Toni, at least in my opinion. I think she could easily bring the hem up by two or three inches. If the cabled hem sat right at her hips it would help to balance the top of the sweater better. Sleeves: Here, they are too long--they pull the eye downwards and emphasize Toni's hips, instead of highlighting the curve at her waist and helping to keep the eye moving up towards her face. You want the beginning of the cuff to sit just about an inch or so below the elbow. It's about a half-inch to an inch too long on Toni. Also, note that the sleeves overall are a bit too full--this can be remedied by having Toni make the next size smaller. Neckline: It seems a bit high to me, but that could be just me.		Stefanie Her bust: 34" 4.25" positive ease Size: Again, as on Toni, this size makes for a comfy, roomy fit; but she might want to try the next size down for a closer fit. Sleeves: Almost the right length, enough so that I'm thinking the next size down would put them at exactly the right height. Length: Shorter, methinks. Two inches? Neckline: The width is right, but the depth could go a little deeper on Stef. That means she would work a few more rows at the top before joining at the neck to work in the round.


Amy Her bust: 39" 0.75" negative ease Size: This is adorable on Amy. The trim compliments her playful nature, and the smooth lines accent her curves in lovely ways. It's a great size on her--just enough negative ease to skim her curves, but not so much that she is uncomfortable. Sleeves: Fine--there is a bit of extra fullness in the upper arm, but that is the intended style of this sweater. Length: I think this is fine, or it could be a bit shorter, just an inch or so. Neckline: Perfect!


Kat Her bust: 40" 1.75" negative ease Size: I love this on Kat. It looks like something she'd actually have in her closet and wear all winter long. Length: Perfect. Sleeves: Perfect. Neckline: Perfect-o!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 3.75" positive ease Size: Too big, methinks. The 35" would still give her a bit of positive ease and give her better fit in the underarms and sleeves. Sleeves: Too long and too big overall. Going down a size will definitely help with this, but Debbie will want to make sure the top of the cuff comes just under her elbow so that it is closer to her waist curve. Neckline: The neck opening seems just a bit wide on her, so I'd add extra stitches at each side of the neck to pull things in a bit. Length: I'd like to see this a bit shorter on her.


Sandi My bust: 40" 1.75" negative ease Size: Good for a close fit. If I wanted things a bit looser, there is a 40". But I like the fit of this one. Sleeves: Good! They hit just below my elbow and just at my natural waist. Neckline: I personally would like the neckline a bit lower--not much, just a bit. The width is good. Length: Shorter, please.


Erin Her bust: 38" 0.25" positive ease Size: Pretty darn perfect. If Erin preferred a more clingy look, she could go down to the 35", but that would be a lot of cling! Sleeves: Tall Erin needs about another inch or so to drop the cuffs to below her elbows. Neckline: Good width and depth. Length: Well...dare I say it? I think the length is GREAT here. She could even (gasp!) shorten this a bit.


Bertha Her bust: 34" 4.25" positive ease Size: Wow. Too big. Very comfy, for those long chilly weekends in the office when everyone else is at home, but still: Too big. Next size down would be much more flattering. Sleeves: (ever so politely:) No comment. Neckline: It looks too wide on Ms. B, as well as a tiny bit deep. Length: Too long, which the next size down should take care of to some extent.

Knitscene Fall 2008 Brocade Leaves

Jason — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 02:03:00 GMT

Gallery: Brocade Leaves by Kathy Zimmerman

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Overall Comments on the Brocade Leaves: One look at the photos below, and you'll think that this sweater has amazingly graceful waist shaping. One look at the pattern itself, and you realize that the opposite is true: This sweater is basically two rectangles with a V-neck and sleeves. So why does it look so curvy and gorgeous on all of our models? Because Kathy Zimmerman is a genius. She's picked an elegant, all-over stitch pattern that is elastic like ribbing, yet not quite so clingy. The result is a comfortable, form-fitting sweater that shows off your curves without showing off what you have in your back pocket. This sweater was a surprise hit amongst our Gallery Gals! The yarn is soft and not a bit scratchy; the sweater is as comfortable as it is flattering. Make it in a light color to really let the stitch pattern pop; or in a dark color for a more subtle effect. Brocade Leaves Sample shown is 33.5".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" Zero ease Size: Great! Sleeves: Could these be longer? Maybe just a bit. V-neck: Toni does not like to show a lot of skin, so she thinks the neckline here on her is a bit low to wear without something under it. If she wanted to wear it alone, she would have to knit a less dramatic V. Color: I love the deep brown, but Toni has such a delicate complexion that I'd like to see her in something much lighter, or much more colorful. The brown overpowers her! Otherwise: Toni looks like she's ready to curl up with a book and some hot chocolate on a rainy day.		Kat Her bust: 40" 6.5" negative ease Size: Kat prefers a close fit, so this might be perfect for her. However, if she wanted a looser fit, she could easily go up to the 38", with 2" of negative ease. (If Kat wanted a really loose fit, she could go for the 42", but I think that that would be a LOT of loose fabric adding extra weight and width around her nice figure!) Sleeves: Too short. More, please. V-neck: I like the depth here; if Kat goes up a size, she'd have to check the measurements. Color: Kat loves green. What about a rich avocado green? Yum. Otherwise: This is very flattering on Kat. She should have several, in lots of shades of green!


Amy Her bust: 39" 5.5" negative ease Size: Well, goodness. This size 33.5" still looks good, even with a lot of negative ease. That goes to show how stretchy and forgiving this stitch pattern is. (Brilliant, Kathy.) But for a bit more comfort, Amy might want a larger size, say, the 38". Sleeves: They look like they are about perfect here, so in a larger size, Amy would want to do some measuring to see if they would still be OK. V-neck: Perfect. Color: This is a good color for Amy's complexion--she has a lot of color in her face, so she can pull this off. But blue is one of Amy's favorite colors... Otherwise: This sweater shows off Amy's curves in an attractive way, which is unusual for "box" sweaters. It does not add a lot of bulk, and it does not cling too tightly.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 1" negative ease Size: Perfect. Sleeves: Perfect. V-neck: Perfect. Color: Perfect. (Sigh. Sometimes it is very demoralizing to write these little commentaries for Certain People Who Always Look Perfect In Everything.)


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.5" negative ease Size: Perfect (here we go again...). Sleeves: Perfect. V-neck: Perfect. Color: (I refuse to write another "perfect"!) Stefanie would look stunning in a cream or off-white version to match her fabulous earrings.		Erin Her bust: 38" 4.5" negative ease Size: Even though this looks really swell on Erin, she might be more comfortable in the size 38". Sleeves: Longer, please. The hem too. V-neck: Erin doesn't like to show too much skin either, so she might bring up the V just a bit by starting it later and doing fewer decrease rows on the way up to the shoulder. Color: Brown is pretty on her, but what if it were steel blue to match her eyes? Yeah, baby.


Sandi Her bust: 40" 6.5" negative ease Size: I liked this, but I also felt that the small size added visual pounds to me--the small size clung more tightly to my tummy, which is not really my best bit. I'd like a larger size, please--probably the 38". Sleeves: Could be a tiny bit longer. V-neck: Whoo. A bit deep on me. It's not too bad, but I feel self-conscious, and it's really important to note how you FEEL in a garment, not just how it looks on you. Up with the V-neck. Color: The brown does look good, but brown is not a color I wear a lot of. Could mine be black? Or (wait for it...) a nice plum purple?		Bertha Her bust: 34" 0.5" negative ease Size: I like it, even though it hangs a bit loose on Bertha. She could go a size smaller if she wanted to. Sleeves: Hush now. Let's not be rude. V-neck: A bit racy on Ms. B, but not too bad. Color: Bertha's coloring allows her to wear a variety of colors, but this one is pretty strong for her clear, almost glowing complexion. How about a deep dusty rose?

Knitscene Fall 2008 Ahlstrom Bodice

Jason — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 02:00:00 GMT

Gallery: Ahlstrom Bodice by Lou Schiela

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self! Ahlstrom Bodice Sample sweater shown measures 34".


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 0.5" positive ease Size: Here's a case where personal preference comes into play: This is cute as-is on Toni, but to my eyes, it looks a wee bit loose on her. If Toni were up for a smaller size, I'd recommend she try the 30", which would give her 3.5" negative ease and thus skim her curves in a very bodice-like way. Waist: The waist would definitely need to be lower--see how it hits her so high that the nice "flare-at-the-hips" is actually flaring out into space? Yep. That flare needs to be lower so it sits on her actual hips. However, for this particular garment, she should add most of the extra length ABOVE the waist shaping, and not necessarily add too much length below the waist. Why? Well, she wouldn't want the front "point" pointing too low. So: She could add perhaps a half-inch to the lower section below the waist, but add perhaps an inch-and-a-half or more to the section above the waist. This would move the waist indentation to where she needs it to be, keep the flare sitting on her hips, and not lengthen the point too much. Sleeves: Toni mentioned that the sleeves were tight on her athletic upper arms, so she could knit a larger size for the sleeves and adjust the sleeve cap accordingly so it fit the armhole. Toni could also use some added length at the cuff. Neck opening: This seems a bit wide to me on broad-shouldered Toni. She could narrow the front panel on both sides just a bit to bring in the sides of the neck opening.


Amy Her bust: 39" 5" negative ease Size: Whoo. This fits Amy like a medieval GLOVE. Now the question is: Does Amy like medieval gloves? Maybe, maybe not. I will say that I watched Amy pull this on, and it was a bit of a struggle. So perhaps a bit less negative ease and a larger size would help her feel more comfy (although we all admitted that the top looks GREAT on her, so there you are). Waist: The waist needs to be several inches lower; but as with Toni, you wouldn't want that point getting TOO low. Amy could add maybe an inch below the waist and maybe two inches above the waist to get that shaping into place. Sleeves: The sleeves are a smooth fit and hit right at her wrist bone. Nice. Neck opening: I think it's fine, although if she makes the larger size, I'd want her to do some measuring and comparing with the schematic to check that it would still be fine.


Kat Her bust: 40" 6" negative ease Size: Even though Kat's measurements are slightly bigger than Amy's, I think this top fits her better than Amy. Why? Well, Kat's ribcage is bigger than Amy's; Amy has larger assets up front. In other words: For Kat, the circumference is more evenly distributed around the entire front and back of the sweater; for Amy, the sweater has to be more generous in one (er, two) particular location(s). This affects things such as armhole fit, where the waist falls, and so on. Waist: Kat needs the waist dropped a bit; in her case, she can also add some length to the front point without worrying too much. Look at the back photo: The little flare is not sitting properly on her hips, so the whole waist/hip shaping needs to be moved down. She could add perhaps an inch and a half to the bottom section, and an inch above, to help put the waist where it belongs. Sleeves: Does she want them short or long? Right now they seem at an odd in between length. Shorten to three-quarters, or lengthen to her wrist, one or the other. Neck opening: Looks good!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 0.5" negative ease Size: Can we have a reality check, please? Is there anything that looks bad on Debbie? (The crowd shouts a resounding "NO!") OK, thanks. I was starting to think I was getting a bit loopy looking at all these photos. So: This looks great on Debbie. If she wanted a tighter, more medieval fit, then she could make the smaller size, but she doesn't need it. Waist: I think it hits her exactly where it should hit her. Look at the back photo: It sits on her hips perfectly. You could lower the point just a tad, like a half-inch, but again, maybe not. Sleeves: She has plenty of room in the armholes, and the cuffs fall at a nice location. Neck opening: No problems there.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" No ease Size: I think this is a perfect size for Stefanie. Waist: The waist needs to be lower on Stefanie, but she does not necessarily need extra length below the waist. She could add two inches above the waist, making sure to space out the increases according, and it would be perfect. Sleeves and Neck Opening: Both fine, although maybe the sleeves are a bit short.


Erin Her bust: 38" 4" negative ease Size: Sometimes we Gallery Gals wonder if we even should show some of these on Erin, because her height makes them look like she is wearing munchkin clothing. Ah well. It's a learning exercise, right? Right. This is obviously a bit tight on Erin, as well as massively too short. The next size up, 38", would be zero ease, and might be a more attractive fit for her. Waist: Erin would have to do some careful measuring and comparing to the schematic to map out where the waist would fall on the larger size. Here, it is almost at her underbust and obviously needs to be much lower. Erin tells me that she always has to add several inches in length to her sweaters, so here, she would want to look at the schematic, figure out where that bottom point falls on the 38", and then measure herself to figure out how much length to add before and after the waist. Sleeves: The larger size would also give her more room in the armholes, and give her bigger sleeves, which would be more comfortable. The sleeves need to be lengthened by several inches. Neck opening: I think on the larger size it would be much better than it is here. Yarn note: Tall people need to buy extra yarn. (Think of it as increased opportunities to browse yarn shops.)


Sandi Her bust: 40" 6" negative ease Size: I know this looks kind of awesome on me (cough, cough), but I wouldn't wear it this tight unless I were going to the Renaissance Faire. In ordinary life, I'd make the 38" size, which would be easier to get on and be much more helpful in the breathing department. Waist: My waist is about an inch lower than the sweater's, which might be fixed by going up a size. Again, I'd check the schematic and see if I needed to adjust here. I would want to add some length below the waist, just because I like it that way. Sleeves: I need longer and larger sleeves, so again, the bigger size would help here also. Neck Opening: I think it's fine, and would measure the next size up to make sure it wasn't too big.


Bertha Her bust: 34" No ease Size: Bertha, my dear, this is too big on you. You need the next size down. Why does zero ease look too big on Bertha and yet not too big on the other girls? I think it has something to do with Bertha's assets. They are small. Also, Bertha has no arms, and arms help to pull up the top section of a sweater a bit by filling things out at the shoulders. Waist: I think it needs to be higher on Bertha, but the hip flares are in the right place. This means that Bertha's knitter-for-hire would have to work about a half-inch or an inch more between the hip decreases and the upper increases to lengthen that middle section. Sleeves: Let us not rub salt in a tender wound, shall we? Neck opening: Seems a bit too small, even though the sweater overall is too big. Bertha's knitter could widen the color panels, thus setting the sides of the neck opening further apart.

IWK Summer 2008 Brick Pullover

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:59:00 GMT

Gallery: Brick Pullover, design by Kathy Zimmerman

Brick Pullover This pullover has a very unusual construction: The front and back sections with the grid design are rectangles with blunted corners at the top; each sleeve/shoulder/neck section is a single piece. The two sleeve/shoulder/neck pieces are joined vertically at the center back and then sewn to the tops of the front and back rectangles. This forms a modified saddle shoulder, with no seam around the armholes. Interesting! Sample garment measures 42".


Aaron Chest: 39" Height: 5'11" 3" Positive Ease Aaron is only wearing one thin layer under the sweater, showing how it looks good on a range of chest sizes. Good length at both hem and sleeve. (It must be noted that Aaron did not want to give the sweater back.)		Eric Chest: 41" Height: 6'6" 1" Positive Ease Again, for a summer sweater, this size might be fine; but if Eric wanted to wear anything more than a tee shirt underneath, he would want the next size up. The sleeves definitely need lengthening; he might want the hem just an inch or so longer as well.


Mark Chest: 35.5" Height: 5'11" 6.5" Positive Ease Mark is wearing this sweater over a couple of layers, so it's a good example of how positive ease can help with layering! The length is good, the sleeves are good, and Mark really liked the feel and texture of the cotton/bamboo yarn. He also pointed out that the rusty brick "was not really his color," and said he'd like it in a blue or green.		T.J. Chest: 40.5" Height: 5'9" 1.5" Positive Ease T.J. is the only knitter in the group, and pointed out that he could make this sweater for himself, thank you very much! He would make the sleeves a bit longer to fit his long arms. For a spring/summer sweater, he felt this amount of ease was fine; but for a winter sweater, he would want the next size up, in order to give himself a bit more ease to fit over another layer or two.

		Plus One Not-Man: Sandi Chest: 41" Height: 5'4" on a tall day 1" Positive Ease This is a VERY comfortable sweater. However, I personally felt that it really called attention to my bustline, in a not-attractive sort of way. The V-neck ends too low, pointing at the horizontal line going straight across the top of my bust. It's kind of like a frame for The Ladies. Not good. Sewing up the V-neck would help, so that it did not point right at that seam. And lowering the seam might help, too! Wonder what it would look like with the seam running below the bustline? Or having the pattern be an all-over pattern? This points to an interesting fact: For men, having that line go across their chest with the contrast between plain and pattern right at chest level helps call attention to their manly chests. For a woman who may not want this kind of attention in that area, the design details would have to be modified according to her body type and knitting preferences.

IWK Summer 2008 Wakame Lace Tunic

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:53:00 GMT

Gallery: Wakame Lace Tunic, design by Angela Hahn

The Gallery Gals loved the graceful, flowing lines of this tunic. We thought you could dress it up with a full skirt or shiny pants and colorful, dangly earrings; or, if you made it in bamboo, cotton, linen, or hemp, it would be great for a lovely brunch on the beach. (One can dream.) Wakame Lace Tunic Sample garment measures 37" and is shown with 5" positive ease in the magazine.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 3" positive ease What if Stefanie wore this with a pair of shiny black pants and some killer gold shoes? Off to the ball with you, Cinderella. I can't see any changes that I would make here.		Katie Her bust: 38.5" 1.5" negative ease For those of you who might not have noticed, Katie is pregnant, and we put this tunic on her just to see what it looked like. This is a pretty killer maternity top, folks. The only problem? There's not much room to grow in the belly area, and Katie still has a few months to go before Baby shows up!


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 2.5" positive ease My only comment here is that I think the sleeves end at the same level as Debbie's hips, which are her widest bit, creating a longer horizontal line in the place where perhaps she does not need any more horizontal interest. Shortening the sleeves by one lace repeat would definitely help. I also wonder if the mesh hip band could be raised by working fewer repeats of the top piece so that that mesh band hits Debbie a little higher, just below her natural waist. (OK, I guess that was two comments.)		Erin Her bust: 38" 1" negative ease I think I would lower the mesh horizontal band, as Erin is so tall--if we added a full repeat of the lace pattern up top, that would also add enough length to the tunic overall for tall Erin. For a more drapey look, Erin could knit the next size up, 40.75", and that would give her almost 3" of positive ease. I think it would look more elegant on her in the larger size.

		Bertha Her bust: 34" 3" positive ease Bertha, you look gorgeous, darling, simply gorgeous. Notice how the mesh band forms a dropped hip style, very twenties. The neckline is wide and graceful, the drape beautiful.

IWK Summer 2008 Plaid Halter

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:53:00 GMT

Gallery: Plaid Halter, design by Gryphon Perkins

This is a great, lightweight summer top! The hemp breathes, and the gauge isn't very tight, so if you live in a warm climate, this would be a great all-season pattern! We thought it would be good for office wear, or for giving speeches. (Debbie for President! Stefanie for Prime Minister! What a world THAT would be....) Plaid Halter Sample garment is 32".


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 2" Negative Ease Great shaping on Stefanie at the waist, and the neckline is perfect on her. The armholes look a bit big, but they are not too bad. She might need an extra 1" or so of length at the hips.		Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 2.5" Negative Ease Wow. This is adorable on Debbie. The armholes gap just a bit above the bustline, but overall, I think this is cute on her. The waist shaping helps add in extra curves, and the high neckline helps pull your eyes up to her great face.

IWK Summer 2008 Apres Surf Hoodie

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 04:52:00 GMT

Gallery: Apres Surf Hoodie, design by Connie Chang Chinchio

What is it about little hoodies that is so completely captivating? Why do we all want this garment for ourselves? I don't know, but I was really disappointed that I couldn't try on the sample. Sigh. The difference between this hoodie and most of the other hoodies you see around town (besides the lovely lace and the handknit splendor) is that it isn't the traditional boxy shape--it has set-in sleeves, waist shaping, and actual curves. Go Connie! Apres Surf Hoodie Sample garment is 35.5".


Elizabeth Her bust: 36.25" 0.75" negative ease We have a new Gallery Gal--Elizabeth, from the Beadwork/Stringing office! So I thought I would put her first on this page, as a way of introducing her. Elizabeth is rocking the waist shaping on this hoodie, and I love how the lace section falls at precisely the point on her hips where things start to flare out--nice. I think the hoodie body is a perfect fit for Elizabeth. However, I think that the armholes are too small. The sleeves are also just the teensiest bit close-fitting for her. She could work the body using the 35.5" instructions but the 39.5" armhole numbers to make the armholes bigger, and then make the sleeves using the 39.5" sleeve instructions all the way up--this way the sleeve caps would fit in the armholes, the armholes would be bigger, and the sleeves would be a bit looser. Voila. (And welcome, Elizabeth!)


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 1.5" positive ease A bit short, perhaps? Both at the hem and at the cuffs? Other than that, seems like Stefanie might have just knit this for herself.


Erin Her bust: 38" 2.5" negative ease Definitely the wrong size for Erin. The next size up, 39.5", would give her 1.5" positive ease and be MUCH more comfortable. Erin would need more length in the sleeves--note that this would mean adding more lace repeats, rather than just lengthening the stockinette cuffs. She would also need to add more lace repeats in the body of the hoodie--probably about 5" worth--after working the stockinette "hem" section. Notice that in the second photo, the one with the hood up, Erin is hunching over a bit--that's because the hood section is too short for her! A bigger size would REALLY be better for her!


Bertha Her bust: 34" 1.5" positive ease My only complaint here is that I think the hood is the wrong shape for Bertha. I kind of wonder if the whole hoodie thing isn't really for her, anyway. . .


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" 1" positive ease Perfect. Don't you think?


Toni Her bust: 33.5" 2" positive ease This shows what the hoodie looks like with a couple of thin layers worn underneath and 2" of positive ease. I think the hoodie could be longer on Toni by an inch or so. I also wonder if the armhole isn't just a bit on the tight side. (Toni asks that you politely ignore her rather untidy cubicle. Untidiness is the sign of an active, creative mind, you know.)

IWK Summer 2008 Leaf Kimono Top

Kat — Fri, 02 May 2008 03:57:00 GMT

Gallery: Leaf Kimono Top, design by Sarah Barbour

Leaf Kimono Top What's not to love? It's green. It's linen. It's lace. It fits. You can wear it over stuff; you can wear it anywhere. Everyone thought this was adorable. Construction Note: The "sleeves" are rectangles which fold over the shoulders--your arms come out the long edge (with a short seam sewn under the arms) and the short edges are sewn to the top of the front piece and the back piece. So the underbust seams you see in the photos are actually the seams along the short edges of the sleeve piece. Keep this in mind if I talk about lengthening the sleeve pieces to drop the underbust seam a bit! Sample garment si 37.5". In the magazine, it is modeled with about 5" positive ease at bust.


Erin Her bust: 38" 0.5" negative ease This top was meant to be worn with positive ease, but on Erin, with just a bit of negative ease, I still think it is cute. I think she would be happier with a larger size, maybe the 40", or even the 45.5", which would give her the loose, kimono-like feel the designer intended. Erin would probably want the underbust seam to be a bit lower, so she would have to lengthen the sleeve piece accordingly (see Construction Note above). Note that for Erin, we tied the ribbon in back so that the neckline was narrower and the shoulders stayed in place more easily. Erin probably would also want to lengthen this by about six inches or so.


Katie Her bust: 38.5" 1" negative ease This makes a lovely maternity top, although I think Katie might be more comfortable in the next size up. More length would help cover her belly as the pregnancy continues. After the baby is born, the 40" size would still fit Katie's normal 35" bust with a lovely, loose drape. Katie might also want the underbust line to be a bit lower, so she also might consider lengthening the sleeve piece (see Note above).		Sandi Her bust: 41" 3.5" negative ease I love this! I mean, it's not being worn as the designer intended, but even with All That Lovely Negative Ease, I would totally wear this top, just like this. Oh, all right: i would probably lower the underbust seam as described above. That would make it just about perfect! However, if I wanted a looser fit, I could make the 40" or 45.5" size. (I think at this point, I am just so delighted to be able to wear things that are NOT loose that I might be going a bit hog-wild with the whole negative ease thing.)

		Stefanie Her bust: 34" 3.5" positive ease Pretty cute. This garment is so versatile on so many different body types that I am not sure I would change anything here. Maybe length? Maybe, maybe not.

IWK Summer 2008 Folded Cowl Tee

Kat — Thu, 01 May 2008 04:59:00 GMT

Gallery: Folded Cowl Tee, design by Michelle Katerberg

We LOVED this tee. We also quickly discovered that if the bust shaping wasn't too pronounced, the tee could be worn with either side as the front! We were delighted with how it looked either way. The front neckline is higher than the back, providing the little "cowl" effect that gives the tee its name. Since front necklines are generally lower than the back, this is also what makes the tee wearable two ways: as the gentle cowl neck with the lace detail at front hem, or as a scoop neck with lace detail at back hem. Other differences between front and back? The REAL front, with the lace detailing at the hem, has little pleats at the shoulders; the back is smooth at the shoulders. The front of the sample has short-row bust shaping, which, at least in the sample's dimensions, did not seem to show that much when the shirt was worn backwards. And, of course, there is the charming detail at the hem on the front of the tee. Some folks liked the little lace hem detailing behind them :) The cotton/milk fiber blend was light as air and silky-soft. This was another one we had to check people's backpacks for at the end of the day. Folded Cowl Tee Sample sweater measures 34.5" with 1" of short-row bust shaping; in the magazine, it is modeled with 2" of positive ease.


Stefanie Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease Stefanie is wearing this sweater backwards at right, and correctly in at left. We liked it either way on her, with a slight preference for how it looked backwards. There you have it.


Debbie Her bust: 34.5" Minimal/zero ease Debbie is wearing it backwards, and it looks lovely. The fabric stretches nicely over her curves, the small hem and sleeve detail keep the eye moving. Great shape and fabulous color on Debbie.		Erin, wearing tee as designer intended Her bust: 38" 2.5" negative ease at bust when worn correctly When worn correctly, Erin could probably use another inch or so of short-row shaping at the bust. The shirt also needs to be 1-2" longer for tall Erin! Below, we show photos of Erin wearing this tee backwards so you could see how the 1" short-row shaping is barely visible in back. Just room enough for her shoulder blades, methinks.


Erin, wearing tee backwards Her bust: 38" 3.5" negative ease at bust when worn backwards


Sandi Her bust: 41" 5.5" negative ease at bust when worn correctly (due to 1" bust shaping) 6.5" negative ease at bust when worn backwards I tried it on both backwards and, um, frontwards. The short-row bust shaping definitely helped when I was wearing it correctly--remember that if you do 1" of short-row shaping on something with 6.5" of negative ease, you are actually reducing the ease at your bust to only 5.5" negative ease. Obviously, it fits better at the bust with the short-row shaping; however, for a busty gal like myself, I prefer lower necklines rather than the cowl effect. And I like the detailing on the back for myself, because I actually have less on my backside than on my tummy. Detailing on the back gives me a little extra visual interest back there where I am lacking, rather than in front where I am not lacking. I would probably make the tee a bit longer to bring it over my hips; right now, it stops at my widest point, which is not as flattering on me. (I feel compelled to add that what I was wearing underneath had buttons in unfortunate locations...)


Bertha, backwards (right) and correctly (left) Her bust: 34" 0.5" positive ease This is a little big on Ms. Bertha, unless she's feeling in a loose-and-comfy sort of mood. The long length is kind of nice on her, with her long waist. I also think that the slight cowl effect in the photo at left is very flattering on her. (By the way, Bertha would like folks to know that her necklace was custom-made for her by Michelle Mach, who is my counterpart over on Beading Daily. Custom made, because...it has no clasp and thus slips very easily over Bertha's slender neck. Perfect!)

IWK Winter 2007 Bonbon Pullover

Kat — Wed, 28 Nov 2007 12:42:00 GMT

Gallery: The Bonbon Pullover, design by Mari Lynn Patrick