Interweave Crochet Fall 2008 Galleries, Part Two

Sep 30, 2008
Views: 27,258
Comments: 38
Average rating:

Interweave Crochet Fall 08Take several beautiful crocheted garments. Add the cast and crew of one magical local yarn shop. Flavor with a fun and stylish Interweave Crochet magazine editor, a wacky Knitting Daily editor and a fun-loving mannequin named Bertha. What do you have? A recipe for the first-ever LYS Knitting Daily Gallery!

Here are the second set of Galleries (see the link below for the first set!).

Spanish Moss Coat by Tracy St. John

Ridge Swing Cardigan by Robyn Chachula

Northern Dreams by Julia Vaconsin

Diamond Cabled Pullover by Drew Emborsky

View the first set of Interweave Crochet Galleries


Thanks to all our gorgeous local yarn shop models: Kathryn, Jeanette, Joanne, Chelsea, Cherie, Erin, Crystal, Barbara, Lucy, Eleanor, Pam, and Grayce. You folks made our garments glow!


Spanish Moss Coat by Tracy St. John

This was a crowd favorite! Warm, light, pretty... Everyone wanted one for themselves. Note that if you are not partial to mohair, you could make a lovely version out of linen, or a silk/wool blend. Whatever yarn you are contemplating, be sure to make a long, very generous swatch, and hang it vertically on your wall for a while after blocking. Why? The length of this coat means that anything other than an ultralight fiber has the potential to stretch out lengthwise, and you'll want to know how much the fabric stretches BEFORE you crochet the entire coat!

 
Jeanette: I practically ordered Jeanette to make one of these for herself. In red. With big silver buttons. The length is great on her tall frame, and the buttons and collar are a perfect frame for her terrific smile!   Kim: One word: Adorable. Is the coat too big, or just right? That's up to Kim, and how she wants to wear it! Just points to notice and think about here: The fit across the top of her shoulders is good, as is the fit across the bust, but notice the sides, underarms, and sleeves--very loose. The drop shoulders emphasize the oversized look on her. She could make a size smaller, adding width to the fronts if needed. She could also drop that second button down by a couple inches, so that it falls below the fullest part of her bust, not directly at it. A button at the fullest part of the bust, well. It tends to make us women look as though we have three, instead of two, assets up front.
 
Kathryn: Notice that the buttons are pulling just a bit; the shoulders are also just a bit too tight for a coat. Kathryn would be more comfortable in a larger size, which would add more drape all around. Plus, who wants a coat that won't close all the way down the front? Brrr. (Gorgeous color on her, however. Rock the greens, Kathryn.)
  Me: I need a bigger size--but shorter sleeves and a shorter hem, to match my shorter self! For those of us who can't reach the second shelf in the kitchen without a step stool, long coats need to fall above the knee so that we don't look like we are playing dress-up. This is especially true of A-line garments such as this one, where the garment's hem is significantly wider than the bust area--all that extra width down at the bottom makes you see only Coat and not Sandi.
  Bertha needs a smaller size. She looks as though she is wearing her momma's coat! And she also needs smaller buttons--the buttons are out of proportion to her delicate frame. (If all you can look at is the buttons, and if they keep pulling your eyes back to themselves, then they are the wrong buttons.)

Ridge Swing Cardigan by Robyn Chachula

"Worked on the bias"--what on earth does that mean, you ask. It means that each panel is worked diagonally, starting from one corner, increasing stitches at both ends of the row to form a triangle shape. Once the bottom of the triangle (one of the short sides) is the proper width, then you work a rectangle, still on the diagonal, by increasing at one end of the row and decreasing at the other end of the row, thus preserving the stitch count to form the rectangle. Ingenious! This also gives you a bit of room to do some custom shaping--you can add more increase rows to the beginning "triangle" to widen the whole panel, or work fewer increase rows to narrow it. So for instance: Say the back is the perfect width for you, but the front panels are not wide enough. Work the front panels with more increase rows before you work the rectangle section. Want a longer cardigan? Work more "work even" rows in the rectangle section. Want a shorter cardi? Then work fewer rows in the rectangle section. Use your gauge swatch, the schematic, and a favorite sweater to concoct a cardi that will be a favorite for years to come.

 
Pam: In the right size, this cardigan will be a knockout on Pam--the texture sets off her lovely skin, the brown compliments her hair...nice. But the fronts are not wide enough, and the sleeves are too long. What to do? Pam needs to first decide if the back fits her, as that will tell her if she needs to go up a size or not. (The fronts are too small, either way; so she needs a starting point.) The back was a bit too small on her, pulling across the shoulders--so at least one, if not two, size(s) up would be a good call. Then Pam would get out a cardigan from her closet that fit her across the front the way she likes things to fit; she would compare that measurement with the one on the schematic, and add increase rows to the initial triangle accordingly. The sleeves need to be shorter here so you can see her hands (long sleeves that cover the hands tend to pull the eye down to hip level, not a happy thing for many of us!).

Kim: It looks as though this sweater is too big on Kim--but is it really? What makes it look too big? For one thing, the sleeves are too long; they need to be shorter. For another thing: Notice where the shoulder seam falls--it falls a few inches down her shoulder, so that it looks like a drop-sleeve (which it is not). That makes it look too big, even though the sweater obviously will not close over hips and bust. So we have three zones of fit to pay attention to in the body of the sweater: hips, bust, and shoulders. Kim needs more room in the hips, a bit more room at the bust, and less room in the shoulders! So the challenge here would be to do two things: work more increases in the initial triangle to get the front panel wide enough for hips and bust, and work enough decreases in the shoulder/armhole shaping to have the sleeve seam sit correctly on her narrow shoulders. The first thing I would advise, and I know this sounds crazy, but here it is: start with a larger size, so that the back fits properly as well. Why? Well, you can't tell from this photo, but I noticed that the side seam on Kim pulled well back from her own "side seam"! You want your side seam to fall at your side, not an inch or so back from the midline under your arm. (Measure, compare to schematic...do I sound like a robot yet?) Then adjust the front panels as needed.

 

Now it's your turn.

There are two more Galleries without commentaries--Northern Dreams Pullover and Diamond Cables Pullover. Why no Sandi Commentaries on the last two? Because now I want YOU to be the commentators. Check out the photos, look at the fit of the sweaters in the ten areas listed above, and write in your own commentaries about the best fit and flatter for our models.

 

Northern Dreams by Julia Vaconsin

 
Chelsea   Grayce
     
Bertha    

Diamond Cabled Pullover by Drew Emborsky

   
 
Sandi   Bertha

+ Add a comment

Comments

HelenS wrote
on Oct 9, 2008 5:56 PM

I find the conflict between the kniters and crocheters a bit baffling.  I do both, but not for the same type of projects. I love to crochet lacy items - doilies, tablecloths, curtains, dressy shawls, and tops with a drape more like fabric than knitwear.  I knit sweaters, hats, gloves, warm shawls, socks, and such.

If you convert any of these patterns to knit, you would NOT get a similar result.  Crochet produces a fabric that is denser in relation to the thickness of the yarn or thread than knitting, and which is much less elastic.  To get any significant drape, you need to use a soft yarn and loose tension (hence the suggestions to use a larger hook).  Actually, I would not consider making any in crochet except possibly the dance skirt.  The others would drape and fit better in a knit fabric.  

It's a lot easier to love both knit and crochet if you use each technique for the type of piece it works best for, and don't try to force either one to be something it's not!

Oh, and by the way, with all due respect, crocheting a sweater with a larger hook IS making a bigger size!

AnitaP@2 wrote
on Oct 5, 2008 10:58 PM

Sorry, ladies, but that Spanish Moss Coat looks terrible on everyone.  It hangs poorly and gapes opened at the belly area on even the slimmest model.  The overall idea looks great, but there is no body to that coat.

The diamond cable pattern is very nice but too too small on Sandi.  I can't believe that you people instruct others on fit.

Anita

HennieL wrote
on Oct 3, 2008 3:58 PM

The Diamond Cabled Pullover looks best on Bertha; a size larger would look more flattering on Sandy and the model's bust line is too low. The sleeve inset is at the right height only for Bertha - along the bust line. The sleeve is too tight for Sandi and the shoulder is too short for both her and the model in the magazine. In fact it looks like it is choking the model's armpit. I would increase the shoulder height and the sleeve width, and then taper the sleeve for the model. Sandi might not need to worry about tapering too much. Most people don't have model-thin arms (and Bertha obviously doesn't have any). The length of the pullover is a bit short on the model; they've lengthened it visually by layering it over another top with the same colour. I'm not sure how the larger size's length would work for Sandi; usually if a garment is stretched horizontally, it shortens. The right size might well give Sandi adequate length, as it does Bertha.

I really like the diamond cable pattern; it reminds me of smocking and would be a great stitch for a yoke on a bed jacket.

BrendaR wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 1:35 PM

I have a question.  I want to knit a sweater for grandma.  One of her arms is considerable larger than the other.  How can I make this work?

Suzeq316 wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 10:16 AM

SusanR

For anyone who wants to knit instead of crochet, go to yarnloversroom.com and you can buy a book that converts crochet to knitting or knitting to crochet.

CathyW wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 9:52 AM

Northern Dreams looks too small on Chelsea - I'd agree with her, I think, that the subtle change of working it with a hook a size or two larger (and not wearing it as a layer) would fix most of the fit problems she's got. The yoke seems to emphasize her bust, visually - is there some way to move the colorwork up higher? If not, I might take out the bottom row of pink. I'd make it as long as the shirt she's wearing underneath, and add a little length to the sleeves, too. On Grayce, the neck opening is too wide - is it too tight across the shoulders? I'd also add some waist shaping. The neckline falls perfectly on Bertha, and flatters her curves - but it's hard to tell how the presence of arms would change the fit.

The Diamond Cables sweater looks terrific on Bertha. For Sandi, I'd go a size larger - she rocks the negative ease on the bust, but the ribbing is stretched out too far over her abdomen and biceps, and may need to start a little lower.

TennielleL wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 9:36 AM

LOL  sorry about that if you read that out of context calling crocheting "hooking" don't  sound so good.  I don't know what else to call it though.  Crocheting is such a stumbly word.

TennielleL wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 9:29 AM

Thank you I love this gallery of crochet!  

For those knitters who want to learn to crochet there are several good videos on-line.  This is the most informative I have found but there are others. www.coatsandclark.com/.../Crochet+Made+Easy+-+video+lessons.htm  

As a long time hooker prefer to hold the hook inside my hand for more control.  

Hope you find joy in learning to crochet as I had adding knitting to my craft skills.

Happy Hooking!

AnitaD@3 wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 6:38 AM

All I can say is "I Wanna Work at Interweave!"  Wow!  

Ditto to what JudithW said about converting to knit pattern.  I've never been able to get the hang of crochet.

These galleries help bunches to make sweaters fit.

jwright147 wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 5:22 AM

The Spanish Moss Coat is perfect except that I don't crochet. Would the designer convert it to a knit pattern? I would buy it in a heartbeat! JudithW

MaryD@4 wrote
on Oct 2, 2008 1:50 AM

Chelsea, your comment was a "reality check" for me.  Before reading your comment I thought, "She's holding her breath waiting for the shoot to be over."   This exercise in commenting reminded me about my own experience receiving numerous "comments" on the fit of my first sweater the first time I wore it in public - I was thrilled to finally have successfully completed the whole sweater, but  received several unsolicited comments that it was too big on me and yes, they could tell I made it.  Thirty years later, I still have it and my daughter wants one like it.  Gosh, that was a long time ago.  MaryD

ChelseaN wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 9:28 PM

OH! I get to comment on myself!!

Contrary to what everyone else is saying, I don't need a bigger size (it would be TOO big, and start making me look boxy), I just need a bigger gauge. A slightly thicker yarn, or a bigger crochet hook will do the trick quite well =) And I'd definitely need a few extra rows on the body, and I'd feel more comfortable in it a longer shirt, too. The yoke would look good a little wider, too.

AnneG wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 7:37 PM

Diamond Cable - sorry, Sandi, but no.  It makes you look boxy and doesn't flatter you at all.  All I see are horizontal lines cutting across your body from the neckline which I think should be a V for you, to the sleeves which I would either make 3/4 length or eliminate entirely so they wouldn't end right at the bustline.  I think the sweater would look better if it were about two inches longer and a size larger.

Northern Dreams - Chelsea needs a larger size.  Grayce needs the yoke widened, maybe by another repeat, and/or the neckline adjusted so it curves to follow the lines of the yoke rather than cutting straight across her shoulders.  The rest of it fits fine.

clb_38 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 6:02 PM

You know, looking at the Diamond on Bertha, I think it would be fabulous as a sleeveless sweater dress with a chunky belt, maybe a little frill or ruffle added out around mid to high calf.  Would the pattern allow for simply dropping the sleeves without too much adjustment?

on Oct 1, 2008 5:24 PM

Re Bertha, she will always give a "false reading" in regards to fit, because sha has no arms to fill the sleeves! (Sorry for pointing out her disability).

:)

Carol Y wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 5:22 PM

Northern Dreams by Julia Vaconsin -

Chelsea - This lovely sweater is too small and too short for her. Both the arm and the body lengths need to be increased, but this may be taken care of by knitting a larger size.

Grayce - This sweater looks pretty good on her, but I might shorten up the body length by an inch or two. The neckline looks like it is pulled too low on her shoulders, so that would need to be fixed, but I'm not sure how. Hmm, maybe she does need one size smaller? Would that bring it all up? Then the arms on a smaller size would have to be lengthened because I like them the way they are.

Bertha - Looks too long for her, but the top fits right.

Diamond Cabled Pullover by Drew Emborsky

Sandi - Too small, though it's really only obvious in the waist ribbing and shoulder seams. I'd make it larger, and possibly make sleeves that go down to the crook of the elbows. Hopefully a larger size would be longer too. I can see where this would be a flattering sweater for a lot of body types.

Bertha - A perfect fit! Even without arms. Great length and appropriate stretch. I really like this sweater for me!

UshaFHR wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 5:16 PM

First, I just have to say that these 4 look like knitting designs!

Next - brilliant new development for our learning curves!

" I hear and I forget, I see and I remember, I do and I understand."

So, here goes re the Diamond Cabled Pullover by Drew Emborsky.

Compairing the fit on Sandi with the fit on Bertha:

I agree that the negative ease in the diamond area definitely enhances the pattern, looks lovely on Sandi.

Then I look at the the lower cable pattern on Bertha and decide that what Sandi needs is enough expansion below her bust to allow the cables to draw in and relax as they do on Bertha, before flaring only-slightly over the hips, as they do on Bertha.

Pulling off this bit of trickery would create a very flattering effect, suggesting to the passer-by (who might fo a double-take and not pass her by!) that Sandi is now even slimmer than she looks where the stretched-far-apart waist-to-hip cabling occurs in the sample pullover.

Little would the viewer realise that the crocheter would have to have exercised mathematial genius to achieve the result?

(Knitter is such an easy word, crocheter is such terrible word! what do you call yourselves, you weilders of one needle? How about 'crochet-artiste' with a francophonic sashaying in the middle, crochay-ah-teeste)

SueH wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 4:58 PM

I hate to be negative but I think all of these are very unflattering.  The Spanish Moss and Swing Sweater - why do they not meet in the middle?  Looks like style or knitting error.  Is this the way it's supposed to be?  In any case, if you're a twig I think they'd look good, otherwise not.  On the yoked sweater - nothing I hate more than having my boobs stick out below the pattern line, and then to have arrows pointing at them, well....And on the Diamond Cable, even Bertha is too busty to look good.  Ah, well, de gustibus, etc.

MarieR wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 4:56 PM

Northern Dreams for Chelsea needs to be bigger on the top half and sleeves only.  It would give it a better shape for her and leave enough room for her to be comfortable.  It could also come down maybe an inch or so at the hem.  It looks to big on Grayce at the bottom so a smaller size there would be good. The top is alright, but looks a little tight directly across her bustline and shoulders, however the neckline needs to come in a little bit, so I would add a bit in both areas (like a teensy bust dart and one pattern repeat) but bring the neckline in. Perfect on Bertha however. The Diamond Cable needs to be a few sizes bigger for Sandi. I know how you like your darts, but I don't think this would need any. And it should be a touch longer, but not so long it emphasizes anything you don't want it too. The sleeves look a little streched around the armhole edge on Bertha and definately Sandi, so I would make the sleeve larger at the top for any size made.  Perfect (yet again, BIG SIGH) on Bertha. If only we could all be so perfect...  LOL!

J-Knit5 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 4:48 PM

First of all,I want to thank Sandi and Kim for sharing their knowledge, love and enthusiasm for the fiber arts with us. I had a wonderful time at Threadbear - you need to do more of these!

Northern Dreams

Chelsea: Eventhough you were uncomfortable in this sweater, you looked adorable in it! Just make it one size larger!

Grayce: The top frames your face very nicely, and the fit looks like it was made for you!

Diamond Cabled Pullover

Sandi: I really liked the way this looked on you, just needed to be a little longer for your frame - maybe add a little peplum? - that would be cute!

Sandi & Kim

I am in the process of choosing my "red yarn & silver buttons" for the Spanish Moss Coat! I can't wait to begin working on it! I will send pics! Thanks again for your enthusiasm and encouraging words!

Jeanette

JenniferS@2 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 4:24 PM

I so wish I had known this was going to be held in Lansing!  I am only about an hour away....where was this publicized?  Too bad there wasn't a sidebar note or something about it in Knitting Daily ahead of time.  Of course, I suppose then the shop might have been flooded with people beyond impossible....

Anyway, thank you so much for doing a crochet gallery!  It often feels like crochet is a little overlooked because there are so many knitting publications, newsletters, etc. so it is really great to see crochet here and to get a chance to have more info on the IC projects.

Poetmom wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 4:11 PM

These are great little fit workshops! More, please--and how about the Ridge Swing Cardigan in a knitted version?

ConnieR wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 3:25 PM

RE Northern Dreams -maybe needs to have a larger yolk for Chelsea, and a size smaller in the yolk for Gracie- so it doesnt look like it might slip off if she moves around too much. The sweater looks great on Sandi- but it is obviously too small in the shoulder area.  I will for sure make this one as it seems very forgiving -maybe even a sleeveless version glammed up for the Holidays?????

Donna@2 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 3:13 PM

What a well thought out fitting tutorial! As a fairly new knitter, I have shied away from sweaters because I've  seen too many ill fitting garments with little comment as to how the fit could be (and should be) corrected. Thank you, thank you, thank you for your encouragement!

Donna Lea

LYNNT wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:34 PM

I love the spanish moss  coat . i even have some mohair yarn...My next project

Lynn

NicoleG wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:25 PM

What fun! Northern Dreams looks great on Grayce and Bertha, but I would go up a size for Chelsea--and add 1-2" of length.

The Diamond Pullover is a beautiful shape/color for Sandi, but she needs to go up a size or two depending on how tight she would want it. This would also look better on her longer, with some added room in the hips. I think this looks just okay on Bertha. It's interesting that on Bertha the neckline is more of a scoop and on Sandi its just straight across. I'm assuming this is because its too tight for Sandi. I love this stitch pattern, too.

That being said, I often feel like some of these pieces look way more attractive on real people than they do on the posed models in the magazine!!

MattW wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:23 PM

I like Northern Dreams on Grayce, but I do think that she's got a bit of extra fabric under the bust.  Pulling in that waist just a bit would be much more flattering.  The garment is very feminine, and it's missing the lovely figure underneath.

DeeVH wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:21 PM

Love the Spanish Moss coat on all of the ladies.

Ridge Swing Coat looks o.k. on Kim, not on Pam.  The sleeves are out of proportion to the body of the sweater. Overall, it's o.k.

Northern Dreams sweater, cute on Grayce, too small on Chelsea.

Diamond cabled pullover, looks good on Sandi just a little short in the waist. Pretty sweater overall and very feminine.

Kat wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:14 PM

I so want to make Northern Dreams! Looking at the pattern, it looks quite easy. Just picking colors now. Oh, and to finish half a dozen other projects first <grin>

CarolR wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:10 PM

Northern Dreams looks a little small on Chelsea. It looks like if she raised her arm, the sweater would ride up and stay there. It's a better fit on Grayce. The sleeves on her are too long for my taste, but a lot of people like them to come down a bit onto the hand like that. The neckline and shoulders are especially nice on Grayce, who has a bit squarer shoulders.

I agree about the negative ease of the Diamond Cable Pullover on Sandi. I would want the sweater longer myself, but aside from that it's really, really flattering on Sandi. On Bertha, the shoulder seam is too low.

Carol

JayelF wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 2:08 PM

The front shoulder width of the Diamond Cables Pullover looks just about perfect on Sandi, but she needs more room across the bust and the lower portion.  This is a sweater that benefits from a certain amount of negative ease, but it's too small in the bust and torso.  The "lazy knitter's" solution might be to knit to the armhole decreases with needles a size or two larger, then changing to the required needles the rest of the way up, thus preserving the good fit in the shoulders and sleeves.

DonnaP wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 1:56 PM

Love the Northern Dreams on Grayce! Did she try to keep it? The sleeves may be a bit long, but I like them that way.

It looks a bit snug overall on Chelsea, although it might fit better without a shirt under it. Hard to tell from the picture, but it may be just that it's too narrow across the shoulders since it really doesn't look like it's too tight on the hips or waist.

The diamond cabled pullover might be a little short from waist to hem on Sandi. Otherwise it looks good.

Rebecca@2 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 1:56 PM

I think that the diamond pullover on Sandi needs to be longer and give her more bust room.  The sleeves and neckline look great.  

Chealsey needs a larger size. But I like the way it looks on Grace and Bertha.  But I like my sweaters roomier to begin with.

BTW - Sandi you are looking wonderful.  New haircut looks great!!

HeidiF wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 1:54 PM

Northern Dreams is too small for Chelsea - she needs the whole thing brought up a size or two.  The torso is too short by about an inch and a half, and the yoke is pulled tight and straight across the bust (can she even move her arms?  Doesn't look like it!).  This size looks great on Grayce, however.  The only modification I'd make is to make the neck opening smaller - can you just add a couple more rows to the collar?  It looks a little more boatnecky on her than on Bertha or Chelsea.  It looks good on Bertha too, although I might bring the bottom hem up an inch or so.

The Diamond Cables Pullover is way too small for Sandi!  A couple sizes bigger and maybe another inch or two on the bottom hem would do the trick.  The stitch definition is enhanced with a little stretching, but distorted by too much.  That being said, I'll bet the stitch pattern is pretty forgiving if you do make it a little too small.  I think it works just right on Bertha, with what? 2-3" negative ease?

Cora Shaw wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 1:50 PM

Now that U have seen the Diamond Cable Pullover on Sandi, I know it will look great on me.

Cora

NancyC@8 wrote
on Oct 1, 2008 1:35 PM

Diamond Cable Pullover looks better on Sandi and Bertha than on model in magazine.  Slight negative ease on bust shows off the gorgeous detail of the diamnd bust.

Nice

Thanks for the Galleries !!!1