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Knits Summer 2009 Gallery: Stanwyck Pullover

May 20, 2009 posted by KD Sandi
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Stanwyck Pullover

by Naomi Griffin

from Interweave Knits Summer 2009

  45" sample garment

The images above are from the magazine where the 45" size sweater is shown laced and modeled with plenty of positive ease at the bust.

The images below are of our Interweave Gallery Gals wearing the same sample sweater.


Special note on sizing from Lisa Shroyer, senior editor of Interweave Knits:

Because of the expansiveness of the gauge in the layette stitch pattern, this garment can fit a range of bust sizes; as you can see, the sample 45" garment looks good on our model and the Gallery Girls, all of whom fall below 40" at the actual bust.

However, the garment can accommodate up to a 44" bust, with much less positive ease than shown here. Whether or not you want the garment to "accommodate" your bust in this way (with little ease) is up to you. For myself, I would strongly consider the circ of the ribbed lower body. Choosing a size that works for you in that area is almost as important as choosing one that works at the underarm/bustline. The bodice will naturally contract because of the strong contraction of the ribbed lower body, but the bodice can be spread to the full measurements as given.
 Interweave Gallery Gals
Karen Toni

Karen says: This one makes me think of mint juleps. I have thoughts of wearing it with a pair of jeans to a Kentucky Derby party.
Bust 32"
Waist 24"
Hip 38"
Height 5' 3"
Toni says: I love this top because it is so versatile. I could wear it with jeans or a skirt. Actually I would likely wear it with a jean skirt, just as I did in these photographs. Tops that incorporate ribbing through the midsections always catch my attention.
Bust 34.5”
Waist 28”
Hip 36.5”
Height 5’ 5.5”








Trish

Bust 34"
Height 4'11"

Sandi's Notes:
I love vintage styles, and this one makes me think of pearls and big swirly skirts. Because of its timeless vintage appeal, it's a sweater that can be worn by any woman of any age. The shaping is graceful and provides plenty of fullness in all the right places, making this a garment suitable for a variety of body types and sizes. Glam it up--how about a rose pink version? Or black, if you want the jeans-and-heels look. The Stanwyck, like its actress namesake, can play in any scene you can imagine her in.

Specific tips for our Gallery Gals:
- Karen and Trish both definitely need a smaller size--see how the shoulders are falling off their natural shoulders, and how the top bunches up at their underarms? The next size down is four inches smaller: This would pull the end of the ribbing up so it is closer to their underbusts, as the designer intended; it would also help the sleeves be more in proportion to their delicate frames--and it would definitely fit them better overall. The green is a pretty color on both women, though!
- Toni could shorten the ribbed hem by about two inches so it would fall at the top of her hips, helping to balance her proportions and bring the eyes up to her face.

Here are some questions to consider as you look at these photos:

  • How do you think the garment compliments each woman's individual body type and personal style?
  • Which body type does this garment look best on?
  • If you wanted to knit a sweater straight out of the magazine, with no pattern adjustments except for sleeve and hem length, would this be the sweater for you and your body type?
  • Would it fit your personal style?

Leave your thoughts in the comments!

 

Some links you  might find helpful:

Measuring yourself and your clothing

About positive and negative ease

Measuring tutorial with photos

 
+ Add a comment

Comments

Sumac wrote
on Jul 14, 2009 9:20 AM

Very nice pattern that looks great on all 3 gals...because they have small bustlines.  Please show it on someone with larger bust like me.  I expect it won't look that great.

Kathrows wrote
on Jun 1, 2009 3:54 PM
What happened to the plus-sized models?? Nothing against these folks, but they don't represent much of a size range at all. Really disappointed.
Ellen wrote
on May 26, 2009 9:25 AM
How BEAUTIFUL!!!
susanp@11 wrote
on May 23, 2009 11:28 AM
It appears to me that the model is wearing shoulder pads. I myself add small knitted shoulder pads quite often to knitted garments and receive many compliments when I do so. It creates more of an hourglass shape and gives the garment something to hang from - more structured, less droopy. I believe models are often shaped this way naturally because of their tall frames and low body fat. So a small knitted shoulder pad is a good "cheat" for the rest of us.
SherryP wrote
on May 22, 2009 8:10 PM
As a vintage movie lover, I'm crazy about this sweater! I went to the Blue Sky Alpacas site: http://www.blueskyalpacas.com/ and found that the Alpaca Silk yarn comes in dozens of colors, so you have a great choice. As for the shoulders, dare I mention actual shoulder pads? They're not really in style now, but they might be worth a try, since the sweater seems to look good on the model with broad shoulders.
JessicaL wrote
on May 22, 2009 1:09 PM
I love vintage styles and I was very happy to see this in the magazine. Although the color wouldn't look good on me, it looks great on the model.
Anne MarieW wrote
on May 22, 2009 12:05 PM
I realize that you are going for a boxy, 40's shoulder look, but the shoulder fitting looks too large on all the models including the one in the magazine.
KnitinRN wrote
on May 22, 2009 7:29 AM
LOVE this sweater - so great for the season. Sweet and sexy--- great!!!! Love the fitted waist and I think Sandi's comments about the way the sweater fits each woman is right on!!! Great selection IK!!
CherylK wrote
on May 21, 2009 6:34 PM
I love this sweater. It's definitely going in my queue.
sjeknits wrote
on May 21, 2009 4:08 PM
As noted, the sweater looks best on the model. Shoulders are too big for all three of the gallery modelers. For all three of them, I would recommend adjusting overall garment size and /or shoulder size. A dropped shoulderline with a puffed sleeve just looks like sloppy workmanship!
BarbaraG@5 wrote
on May 21, 2009 10:53 AM
I just don't understand this sweater. I think it looks awful on everyone as regards construction and choice of colour.
PageG wrote
on May 21, 2009 10:06 AM
I think for a curvier figure you'd have to adjust for where the ribbing ends and begins: too low on the hip and it just makes the hips even wider. I agree with other posters that one may want to control the fullness of the sleeves and their length so that one doesn't look T shaped. Unlike others, I love the color , but then again I'm redheaded and that color looks great on me. But I could see it in pale lavender or a very soft, deep rose, and that would be pretty too. For myself, I'd actually substitute small buttons rather than a lace-up front.
LauraT wrote
on May 21, 2009 9:11 AM
Looks nice on thinner people, but certainly won't work on anyone with real hips or a bit of a tummy. Too bad, I really liked it at first.
Tlnadmail wrote
on May 21, 2009 6:52 AM
Only looks good on Trish!
Angie.murphy wrote
on May 21, 2009 6:39 AM
I hated this sweater on the model. I thought it made her look too old and triangular. I think it looks nicer ( or would look nicer) on a curvier body because it is such a soft shapely feminine sweater. Where is Alison in this? The puffy sleeves are cool but I think they would need to be adjusted for a bustier lady so that the bulk of them does not fall at the bust line. This is why I love the galleries. I would actually consider making this now that I have seen it on real ladies. Though I agree, a more diverse range of shapes and ages would be better. Also Let's have more positive feedback. Try to say something more interesting than that it isn't to your taste.
Tracey wrote
on May 21, 2009 5:58 AM
Looks like Toni has it on inside-out.
Caroline Vidican wrote
on May 20, 2009 10:41 PM
Dreadful! Awful colour, but that could be changed. But so girly and prissy and tight across the tummy and enormous across the shoulders, everything's wrong with it, and WHY cannot the girls take off their t_shirts when they model this sort of thing???
AnneG wrote
on May 20, 2009 8:18 PM
Of course this sweater looks good on the model in the magazine - she's a professional who is PAID to make clothes look good! She is probably close to 6 feet tall and about 120 lbs. so of course her arms are long and slim. That's why the sleeves don't "pouf" as much on her as they do on the Gallery models. I think this sweater would look much better with a tapered 3/4 sleeve with longer ribbing to echo the body ribbing.
GraceK wrote
on May 20, 2009 7:56 PM
Ummm...it's a cute sweater, sure, but all I can think of when I see it is Renaissance Fair Remix.
RachelE wrote
on May 20, 2009 7:36 PM
What a cute sweater! Is there any way to get rid of the puffy sleeves, though? They're too reminiscent of the 80's for me.
KathleenK@3 wrote
on May 20, 2009 4:51 PM
I'm a little disappointed that none of the models are a little bit bigger. The average woman is 5'4", size 14. I'm size 12, 5'4". And my measurements are 38-29-40. I love seeing Trish here, I'm over 40, but could you guys find someone bigger? Or do the samples only fit smaller people? I love this sweater though!
snichols1909 wrote
on May 20, 2009 4:47 PM
The body of the sweater is adorable , but the poofy sleeves are HIDEOUS on all of the models. I think the sleeves like these make anyone look fat, and detract from the pattern design. I also think that just a regular sleeve would be better. There is enough detail in the ribbing, the upper bodice pattern and the lace up front closing, to make the pattern gorgeous.
Croby wrote
on May 20, 2009 4:35 PM
This sweater is worth purchasing the summer issue for. With my small back, narrow shoulders, large bust and narrow waist, the puff of the sleeves with the ribbing will give the illusion that I am more propotional. I would add shoulder pads.
LisaW wrote
on May 20, 2009 3:39 PM
You can see how the model must have longer upper arms, which results in the sleeve hanging down rather than bunching up when the ribbing "catches" on the elbow. Overall the sweater is not my style, but doesn't look too bad on Trish and Toni. Doesn't fit Karen, too big.
SueG wrote
on May 20, 2009 3:18 PM
Hey Trish is back - love it, cuz she's so close to my dimensions & much closer in age, so I can relate to how she models the garments. Must say, very nice too. Maybe 3/4 sleeves would be a good sub for this sweater. That might eliminate some of the puffy look at the upper arm caused by the ribbing at the elbow.
weavingpainter wrote
on May 20, 2009 3:11 PM
I think this is a delightful top. The lower section would be a little to long for many of us, but this would be an easy thing to correct. I also love the color choice, even though it is one I should never wear. I think it is attractive on all of the models, although, on Trish and Karen, it would be even better if it were not quite so long.
bobbieq wrote
on May 20, 2009 2:30 PM
As always the very skinny model looks best in this sweater. I think the reason that the sleeves look so poufy on the gallery girls is that they have real arms instead of sticks, and the ribbing does it's job of making the sleeves stay in place, causing them to "pouf". The ribbing over the midriff shows every bulge that is there on the gallery girls, and on pear-shaped me it would be even moreso. I also agree that Toni has the sweater on inside out. The sleeve seam is very obvious and the bow at the bottom of the neck placket seems to be missing --- possibly on the inside? Color is great. If I were making it I would add a bit more ease in the ribbed bottom and sleeve cuffs. While I love the color and the look on the model, I think this sweater is not for everyone. I appreciate that this gallery can make us aware of that before we put a lot of money, time and effort into making a sweater that is not attractive on us.
CoralS wrote
on May 20, 2009 2:28 PM
It looks great on Trish! The color and yarn choice are horrid, and I myself would never wear puffy sleeves (my arms are big enough, thank you).
Skbutler wrote
on May 20, 2009 1:25 PM
I think the color is fine. :-) This one is not something I could wear, but I think it's very appealing.
Leighlia wrote
on May 20, 2009 1:24 PM
I agree with everyone. This sweater looks fantastic but I have to wonder what kind of versatility other colors would give it. Each of the gallery models look good in the fashion, if not necessarily that green color. The pattern would be perfect as an spring or early fall top. But....is it just me or does it look like Toni has it on inside out? and how would that affect the way it fits on her figure?
Susan@3 wrote
on May 20, 2009 1:09 PM
I think it looks best on the model in the magazine. She looks tall and willowy. Toni is probably the closest in the present size. However, if Karen's shoulders fit better it would look good on her as well. Of course, it would be easier to tell how it would look if they had on a cami or tank top. I really like these galleries and how the patterns look on various body types.
TammyT wrote
on May 20, 2009 12:28 PM
This sweater is gorgeous! What a lovely design and I think the color adds a more modern twist to the vintage look of the sweater. This is definitely a "skinny woman's sweater", though. It looks best on the skinniest women. I love especially how it looks on Trish. I think I even prefer the sleeve seams falling of their shoulders (on Trish and Karen) to the way the sleeves look when "correctly" at the tops of the shoulders (as in Toni and the magazine model). I think it softens the "football player" shoulders that having sleeves that puffy often give the wearer.
Colleen W wrote
on May 20, 2009 12:27 PM
I am glad you used this sweater as a sample as I like it better now that I have seen it on real bodies, if you know what I meand. When I make it I think it will have long sleeves.
savannagal wrote
on May 20, 2009 12:24 PM
I love the sweater and the color. Perfect and fresh for spring. The sleeves could be less poufy, and I agree, no t-shirts underneath. Otherwise, perfect. Thanks.
lkmknits wrote
on May 20, 2009 12:15 PM
Love this sweater design--although I, personally, would need to make some changes. The sleeves look great on the model, but too puffy on the Gallery Gals--I think they (the sleeves, not the Gals!) ;-) need to be shorter so they have a sleeker look. I'm short-waisted (both from bust to waist AND from waist to hip) although not slim, so I think I'd need to play with the ribbing to make it look good. This sounds negative, but it's really not--I love getting new design ideas--and this one is definitely on my list of sweaters to try. I have some Louisa Harding silk blend that would look beautiful in this design!
shiphrah wrote
on May 20, 2009 12:05 PM
I also really like how it looks on Trish! The sleeves are waaaaay too poofy on Karen. The sweater is both too big and also too small on her, perhaps because her very erect posture makes the ribbing look too tight. And on Toni it just looks ... okay ... meh.... Might be the color. I don't DISlike it, but I don't love it either. I don't think it has to be a total homage to the 40's, but something less edgy. And ditto on the cami or a tank top.
SaraR wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:55 AM
Adorable. Definitely one of my favorites from the magazine, and the gallery reinforces my first impression!
JillW wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:40 AM
I agree with DeborahN. The magazine model is the same one as the wrap sweater from yesterday's gallery, I think. It looks like she is very thin with broad shoulders, which affects the way the sweaters fit - here, the sleeves look sleeker, and in the wrap sweater, the neckline was more open. I also think there may be some styling going on to make those sleeves look sleeker, or maybe just the way she is standing in the front shot, with her arms close to her sides.
JenniferS@2 wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:27 AM
Thanks to models, Sandi, and photographer for the time and effort to do these galleries!
BarbaraG wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:26 AM
I agree that the ribbing on Karen and Toni should be higher to take advantage of the slimming effect of the midriff ribbing. I'd actually shorten the length to end at my high hip. Love the silhouette & this color is one I love. I'd like to see the girls wearing a cami under this sweater & not a heavy tee - which ruins the look.
yarngirl52 wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:23 AM
This sweater is one of my favorites. I understand now the importance of fitting the sweater correctly. I hope I can do it with the sweater I am knitting now.
Craftycanadian wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:19 AM
I really like the look of this sweater but I think this color is ALL WRONG for the style. It is clearly a vintage/romantic style but the bright green is just wrong in my opinion. If it were a soft sage green it would be fine, even better would be a lovely cream color or pink or pale yellow... almost anything that is softer and less 'up front'. I think the color will turn off a lot of people who have trouble seeing past things like that. That said, I agree with the first commenter - the style is adorable on Trish :)
DeborahN wrote
on May 20, 2009 11:14 AM
Without this gallery, I would never have considered how important the shoulder-fit is to providing enough structure to support those lovely puffy sleeves. Thanks, Sandi! ~ hb33 ~
DebB wrote
on May 20, 2009 8:20 AM
This is lovely. I think it looks best on Trish. On both Karen and Toni I think the change in the pattern stitch to the ribbing should be lowered to coincide with thier natural waists. I would probably change the arm somewhat - it looks very blousy on the Gallery Gals, and I don't really care for that. I like the way the sleeve is a little sleeker on the magazine model.
AbigailN wrote
on May 20, 2009 7:34 AM
That top is wicked adorable on Trish. I love it!
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