Notes on fit:
In the magazine, this sweater is shown slightly open, with about 0.75"
positive ease. On our Gallery Gals, we also show it worn open,
scooching the fabric back along the drawstring to create gentle
pleats/folds from the drawstring downwards. These pleats are an
important part of the overall design--notice how they correspond to the
points in the lace pattern, giving the lace-and-stripe combination just
a bit more graceful emphasis.
In other words: You could wear this little jacket pulled completely
tight along the drawstring, but it wouldn't drape as gracefully. Keep
this in mind when you are choosing a size for yourself--the finished
widths shown on the schematic don't reflect the "as-worn" widths
created by the pleats. If you like the pleats, and are in doubt between
two sizes, choose the larger one and scooch the pleats together a bit
more! (For a look at what the jacket looks like without the pleats, see
Erin's photo below.)
Sample garment shown is 32.75".
Her bust: 34"
1.25" negative ease
This is definitely too small on Stefanie--she cannot
gracefully pull the jacket closed. Also, notice how the back "rides
up"--in other words, the drawstring is at a higher level in back than
in front, because in front, the drawstring must go under her bust. The
next size up, 36.25", seems like it might be too big, but not if you
scooched the pleats up a bit. Stefanie might also want to start the
beige stockinette bodice about 1-2" earlier so that the drawstring went
under her bustline all around. In other words: she would need the
beige/plain stockinette section to start about 1-2" before she started
Her bust: 38.5"
5.75" negative ease
Notice that this looks as though it fits much better on
Katie than on Stefanie, despite the huge difference in negative ease.
What's going on here? A key "good fit" measurement for this garment is
the underbust measurement, as that is where the drawstring pulls
closed. Stefanie has a wider ribcage than Katie; thus Stefanie's
underbust measurement is bigger and the 32.75" size looks smaller on
her than on Katie. So even though Katie is pregnant and has a bigger
bust than Stefanie, the top closes better. That said: Katie still might
want to make the 36.25" size, for comfort as the baby grows. Katie
might want to add some stripes to the lower half of the jacket in order
to lengthen it--her call.
Her bust: 41"
8.5" negative ease
Hoo, baby. Work that negative ease! However, this top
is just tooo small--it looked silly when I tied it closed, and the
drawstring hits me mid-bust instead of under the bust. The back rides
up, as it did on Stefanie, only more so on me. Which size would I make?
First of all, my underbust measurement is 37". The 36.25" seems just a
bit too small--it would reach around my underbust, but not have a lot
left over for those pretty graceful pleats (see Notes at top). The 40"
seems like a better fit. Just to make sure, however, I check the hip
measurements on the pattern schematic: The 40" size has a 48.5" hip
circumference, which is perfect for my new slimmer 43.5" hips: that
will fit around them, allowing some extra fabric for the pleats. Nice!
Note that I would definitely start the beige/stockinette section about
2" lower/earlier, thus having about 2" of stockinette under my arms
before I started the sleeves. This would allow the drawstring to fall
in the proper place under my bust.
Her bust: 38"
5.25" negative ease
This actually might fit Ms. Erin if the drawstring
section were 1-2" lower, as with Stefanie and me. However, notice that
even though she can close it nicely, there is no extra fabric for
gentle pleats. So the next size up might work better for her.
Her bust: 34.5"
1.75" negative ease
Notice that Stefanie and Debbie have very similar bust
sizes, yet the jacket fits very differently on these women! That's due
to the underbust measurement. Stefanie has a wider rib cage, Debbie a
narrower one. (Be sure to look the schematic and compare your own
measurements at this critical point!) The jacket fits Debbie rather
well, despite the fact that we were having so much fun that we did not
notice that the ties had come undone.
Her bust: 34"
1.25" negative ease
Ah, Bertha. Is there anything you do not look great in?
Again, Bertha's underbust is extremely narrow, so the jacket pulls
almost all the way closed on her, leaving just a bit of fabric for
delicate pleats. Sooo pretty.